First Classic

[barrymknight]

I am looking at buying my first classic car. Now I am pretty naive and I'm prepared to be laughed at for asking possibly a stupid question.

With that in mind, just wondered if anyone thinks I would be able to get a fairly reliable daily drive for under £2,000.....

I guess I need to answer this question before I approach the wife with this proposition!

Thanks.

[pacoryan]

I guess it depends on how "classic" you want the car to be?

If you are thinking 60's 70's stuff then lots of it is a realistic daily proposition, but I would have thought £2k will be the cheaper end of the market and you'll need to be prepared to get your hands dirty or get a chequebook out.

There is plenty of stuff from the 80's that you could buy for £2k that will take daily abuse well and be easy to fix - Saab 900 T16, 9000 Carlsson, Audi Coupé, 924/944 (at a push), BMW 3 and 5 series, SD1, MR2, X1/9, XJ, GTI (Golf or 205/309), GTE, Sivia Turbo, Starion (hmm beginning to look like a "cars I have owned thread"!!) - to me they are all relatively modern cars but I know plenty of folk would put them under the "classic" banner.

If you're thinking about older stuff, are you worried about fuel consumption? You could probably pick up a P6 or Triumph 2000/2.5, or any other saloon, I don't think £2k will by you anything 30 years old and sporty that would be reliable.

Any ideas of what you want to aim for?

[barrymknight]

Thanks for the reply.

I don't have much mechanical experience but am hoping to learn and have a friend who is a mechanic so hope to leave maintenance to him as much as possible.

I quiet like the idea of an MGB. I have no idea about reliability of these though.

[vixen1700]

http://www.carandclassic.co.uk/car/C223922

A little over your budget, but Amazons can be had for £2k. Nice and reliable for everyday use.

Plus, they're pretty cool cars.

[DazBock]

Hi

Firstly yes there is definately a half decent classic out there for £2k but don't expect it to be perfect. I bought my 1975 Spitfire back in October for £1850 which was to be honest a hell of a bargain compared to what else is out there. I could use it every day but I chose not to as obviously it is old and is never going to be reliable in comparison to a new car.


But it's fun, parts are very cheap and it is very easy to work on. Check out my acquisiton theread if youre interested - http://pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&t...

MGB GTs are around for that sort of money though it'll likely be either a rubber bumper model or a late chrome one which is a little rough around the edges, you have no chance realistically of obtaining a MGB roadster for that. MGB's classicly rot to dust on the sills.

I would be considering the following;

Spitfire (obviously)
Mini
Morris Minor (becoming rarer by the day)
MGB GT
Reliant Schimitar
Midget/Sprite

Don't forget classics are always more expensive in the summer.

Hope that helps.


Daz

[OllieC]

Capri ?

[/biased]

[vixen1700]

http://www.carandclassic.co.uk/car/C228255

Agreed, you won't be able to get an MGB for the money, but you could get a Midget, and here's a nice little 1275 one. Possibly needing a bit mechanically, but at that price, it should be relatively easy to sort.

[Gunk]

My first classic was a 1972 chrome bumper MGB GT, it was unfinished but had an MOT. Over the two year I owned it I slowly improved it and sold it on for a profit which funded a MGB roadster, good sub £2000 GT's are out there, you just need to be prepared to do a bit of spanner work.

[barrymknight]

Thanks for all the replies. Been thumbing through magazines and websites and so far, I'm liking the look of Triumph Spitfire, MGB GT and MG Midget.

I'm trying to do as much research as possible before getting too involved, which isn't easy when my boss is looking over my shoulder and telling me to go and get one right now (he has a Stag and recently bought an E Type on Wheeler Dealers!).

Thanks again for all the advise.

[jms700]

my first classic was a 71 spitfire for around that budget. i had no previous mechanical know how but i leant fast.

after a few brake downs, that could of been prevented by giving it a thourough service it was very reliable and a greaty daily runner and i picked up skills for maintaining it as i went along.

i know have an mgb gt which was a wee bit over that budget, but not far and is more reliable and practicle.

i would recomend either if you can find one in your price range, but paying a bit more for the car will normally turn out cheaper than cost of repairs on a cheaper one. ( unless you get a good bargain)

thanks

[anonymous-user]

MGBs are way overpriced. They are not much fun to drive, as they have poor steering and handling. A Spitfire, Herald or Midget would be a better bet.

[na]

All classics are way overpriced even the less expensive ones, you could easily get a good modern car for £2,000 but not so easy with a classic

£2,000 but how much on top of that have you got to properly and fully service, maintain and repair the car for regular reliable use

quite rightly you should research and cross reference and cross check all info you get especially from t'web

as for buying a classic and using it reliably regularly and selling for a true profit well it can happen but is more often 'pub knowledge'

that Midget may be excellent but the gearbox issue would certainly need investigating, a bit of debate about how easy it is to get a good replacement g/box by current Spridget owners

taking as example a classic MG (as that's what I've currently have for the past 4 years of 20 years of owning classics that are used as dailies)

what I put below can be applied to most classics and certainly British cars of the '60s/'70s the ones you mention and aspects even to s/h modern cars

My advice to new or potential owners -

Buy an owners Handbook as it tells you so much you need to know as to own, drive, service and maintain your car - http://www.mgocshop.co.uk/catalog/Online_Catalogue...

Look at and test drive as many good examples as you can including some well out of your buying budget to see how good the cars should be and that you may need to increase your budget

It usually works out less expensive to buy a good but higher priced example than a poor lower priced example

If you buy one then;
always have the battery in good condition and all battery connections and leads clean, secure and protected, same for all electrical wiring and connections

As soon as possible after purchase do a full and proper 36,000 miles service only miss out items that you have 100% proof have already been done very recently, including;
g/box and back axle oils
brake and clutch fluids
coolant
dissy cap, rotor arm and leads (buy good quality ones) - http://www.distributordoctor.com/rotor_arms.html
fan belt

For a coolant change drain the whole system - engine block, rad and heater matrix if you can get any of these out to give them a good shake at the same time as flushing and back flushing then all the better - the sequence is use cleaner as per its instructions then flush, back flush and flush and continue this until water runs clear, refill with the correct coolant mixture but bear in mind in tap water isn’t always the best water to use

As new rubber cooling hoses tend to be poor quality now this is also a good chance to change them to silicone and rounded-edge clips - http://www.classicsiliconehoses.com/

Be aware that brand new parts can sometimes be faulty, especially electrical bits (see just above) so don’t discount them when problem solving just because they are new, buy good quality parts

Check the age of your tyres if they are 6 years old or more replace ASAP regardless of tread depth, this will improve the braking, steering, ride, handling and possibly noise and safety of the car greatly

Use the car regularly - to get used to it, sort out any wrinkles and prevent the problems that occur with lack of use, and to enjoy it

Every few weeks check your horn, wipers and all switches work and heater valve turns on and off (all no problem if you use the car regularly)

Follow regular checks, servicing and maintenance as per owners Handbook

Drive in all weathers the car was designed to, if working correctly the heater is more than adequate

Do not do any cosmetic or improvement work for at least 12 months of regular use, unless you need to replace parts or components, as you may need to use the money elsewhere on the car

Also very useful, you can get suppliers catalogues for free to get you started to see where things go but in my personal opinion they’re not as good as a paper copy like - http://www.mgocshop.co.uk/catalog/Online_Catalogue...

Cheers, enjoy your car

[DazBock]

Breadvan73 said:

MGBs are way overpriced. They are not much fun to drive, as they have poor steering and handling. A Spitfire, Herald or Midget would be a better bet.

They may be overpriced but I still think the MGB GT is a very good looking car. There are loads of them on the roads though, got to be the most common classic I recon. Sat at the woburn show this year looked like a B owners club day.

For the record the Spitfire/GT6 is considered to be a very poor handling car in comparison to the Midget/Sprite. I have both, though the Sprite is in several pieces. I love driving my Spit though you just have to watch out for the rear end.

If you can afford a 2k toy and you don't mind throwing more money at it I am sure whatever you get will be fun.

P.S. Nigel's info is in my experience usually spot on!

[na]

DazBock said:

P.S. Nigel's info is in my experience usually spot on!

cheers Daz, but ssshhhhhhh kept it to yourself, I enjoy the debates with others, one of the reasons I deleted my car history, I am proof that you can learn, if only I could remember some of it

I'm quite often wrong about things but my 'usual advice' is good because it comes from 20 years and tens of £,000s

I think it's a good idea to learn from (my) mistakes but some may think I'm going over the top with what I put - unfortunately some will find I'm not, but then I wouldn't had made so many mistakes if I'd have listen to some others

[JeffreyB]

Best value classic for £2,000?
Porsche 944 beats the lot (IMHO)

[anonymous-user]

The fact that MGBs are common is not, I think, an indication that they are any good. They accord with the idea that many people have of a classic car. I suggest that you can get a much more enjoyable driving experience for less money,with the added attraction of having a rare car.

[na]

Breadvan73 said:

The fact that MGBs are common is not, I think, an indication that they are any good. They accord with the idea that many people have of a classic car. I suggest that you can get a much more enjoyable driving experience for less money,with the added attraction of having a rare car.

as a first classic something like a B is a good idea as:-
there's plenty of information,
parts,
clubs,
easy to drive,
easy to service, maintain and repair
fits people of different sizes
other people's reaction to your car (and thus you)
lack of special requirements
can be made very reliable and used regularly
probably lots more but got to go now

and as for fun that's an indivdual measure

[DazBock]

JeffreyB said:

Best value classic for £2,000?
Porsche 944 beats the lot (IMHO)

Agreed that is alot o car for the money, however, a Porsche will never be a £2k in ongoing costs, tax, insurance, parts etc are nowhere near the cost of one o the 'normal' classics.

[alfa pint]

Breadvan73 said:

MGBs are way overpriced. They are not much fun to drive, as they have poor steering and handling. A Spitfire, Herald or Midget would be a better bet.

the spitfire / herald / vitesse swing axle is legendary for abrupt oversteer!

Don't know who's MG B you drove, but it clearly wasn't right. The standard rubber bumper B is pretty crap handling, but the steering should be excellent.

My MG B is nearly as quick through the corners as my 1999 Alfa Spider, which was regarded as one of the best fwd handling cars ever.

Anyway, OP.

For 2 k, I'd be looking at a 2 litre capri. 0-60 in about 9 seconds, comfortable, doddle and cheap to fix. Simple to maintain. Mine never broke down on me in 2 years and only needed new brake hoses, a front wing (£100) and a second hand back axle (£80) in that time. V6 will be overbudget.

MG Bs only become worthwhile when you buy a rust free one - my first B cost, on average over 10 years, £2.5 k a year to keep on the road because I bought one with rust which spread.

Also look at Mk1 MR2s - yours for about £1500, which again are pretty well brilliantly reliable. Watch for rusty rear arches. The mk2s are there for about 2k, but not really a classic.

Midgets rust more expensively than Bs, don't cruise well on motorways, have a tiny boot and cockpit and are best suited for town, country and hill climbs.

An Opel Manta would be another option - bit like a capri in many ways, with cavalier parts. Rust free remains the issue.

Calibra perhaps? If you can find one that's not been barried, they're striking lovely looking cars, pretty reliable and only have a bland cabin to complain about.

[pacoryan]

barrymknight said:

Thanks for the reply.

I don't have much mechanical experience but am hoping to learn and have a friend who is a mechanic so hope to leave maintenance to him as much as possible.

Ok this is the most useful pointer so far, you don't need anything built by BL unless you aready to tinker frequently, if you give it to your mate/mechanic each time it needs a job doing you will either a) - lose a mate quite quickly or b) - fill your mechanic's pockets while emptying yours.

This is assuming this is to be your only car which I think I picked up on....

Don't get me wrong, I loved my Spitfires and TR6 but I always had jobs to do on them, and I loved doing them, but a career and busy family means I don't have time fix cars. And they were pretty foul in winter!

When I wanted a toy that would live outside, always start but deliver the fun of a cheap classic I'm afraid I went down the predictable route and bought an early 1600 MX-5 (20 years old!). Having done so I can't imagine buying any Spitfire or MG Midget/BGT for that sort of money again. If you feel the need to tinker they are just as simple as the BL stuff to take apart, with the added attraction of parts on the shelf in your local motor factor if you need them.

I'm sure this will go down like a lead balloon, but I'm just trying to be a little pragmatic!