JAGUAR MK2 ISSUES
Discussion
Heya,
Just a quick one here:
I have a 1968 Jag Mk2 (340)
and I currently have the issue of it not starting at the moment. (No spark from the plugs)
I have currently changed the Coil , the Dizzy Cap and rota arm , as well as cleaning up the contacts.
I checked the battery and its still at 12v and the cable from the coil to the dizzy is running at 8oms ....
I have also checked the earth belts too and they seem all ok...
The next thing was to strip the dizzy and re build it but.. i thought I will post this and see what people thought before I have to do that!
Ta
Jack
Just a quick one here:
I have a 1968 Jag Mk2 (340)
and I currently have the issue of it not starting at the moment. (No spark from the plugs)
I have currently changed the Coil , the Dizzy Cap and rota arm , as well as cleaning up the contacts.
I checked the battery and its still at 12v and the cable from the coil to the dizzy is running at 8oms ....
I have also checked the earth belts too and they seem all ok...
The next thing was to strip the dizzy and re build it but.. i thought I will post this and see what people thought before I have to do that!
Ta
Jack
Ah, the rotor arm. Have you bought a "proper" one or are you using one of the poor quality ones that are about? You know, those with the damned rivet. They are often the culprits. Try one of these and see if it helps before you strip the distributor:-
http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-GRA114RED
http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-GRA114RED
Whoops. In my hurry to help I posted details for a Triumph! Here's the correct site reference:-
http://www.distributordoctor.com/red-rotor-arms.ht...
As always, be careful where you buy, because those crafty orientals are now making cheap red rotor arms!
http://www.distributordoctor.com/red-rotor-arms.ht...
As always, be careful where you buy, because those crafty orientals are now making cheap red rotor arms!
AJAX50 said:
Change the condenser. On my two old cars, I've got through 4 condensers in the last two years. I've now got better ones from Dennis Welch. They cost £30 (not the £3 of standard units) but are so far reliable.
The Plan was to change the condenser anywho so I might get a dennis welch one! Also Yeah my rota is a 'new old stock' so its a good one!
I will give them links a read when I get home from work!
Jack
problem solving requires a step by step diagnostic, you’ve put no spark from plugs, so I’ll look from there
first some notes:
to resolve starting problems you will need good battery power and good clean, secure and protected battery posts, leads, earths, connections and wires - 12v isn't that great on a battery – check the electrode levels, top up if required and fully charge the battery
if you have the braided type of earth leads and engine strap then they can look in better condition than they actually are
allow for new parts also possibly being faulty and that possibly the parts fitted to your car might not be the original or correct type
for others and future reference, for good quality rotor arms - Distributor Doctor red rotor arms
there’s always a big debate about condensers, consensus seems to be only change if it’s faulty and that new ones can be rubbish as AJAX50 has found - £30 sounds a lot of money Distributor Doctor does condensers, I don’t know what they cost they might even be from Dennis Welch for all I know but if you need a condenser it’s worth enquiring - Distributor Doctor condensor
problem solving requires a step by step diagnostic, you’ve put no spark from plugs, so I’ll look from there
first some notes:
to resolve starting problems you will need good battery power and good clean, secure and protected battery posts, leads, earths, connections and wires - 12v isn't that great on a battery – check the electrode levels, top up if required and fully charge the battery
if you have the braided type of earth leads and engine strap then they can look in better condition than they actually are
allow for new parts also possibly being faulty and that possibly the parts fitted to your car might not be the original or correct type
for others and future reference, for good quality rotor arms - Distributor Doctor red rotor arms
there’s always a big debate about condensers, consensus seems to be only change if it’s faulty and that new ones can be rubbish as AJAX50 has found - £30 sounds a lot of money Distributor Doctor does condensers, I don’t know what they cost they might even be from Dennis Welch for all I know but if you need a condenser it’s worth enquiring - Distributor Doctor condensor
Sorry I'm very slow at typing, whilst I prepare on Word.doc -
you've cleaned CB points, so have you flicked them to see that there's a spark?
do they open and close themselves?
are they correctly gapped?
are they new stock?
BTW - you do want to have that battery fully charged and electrode level to top up level
by taking it off you also get the opportunity to clean up battery posts and lead clamps
last two cars I’ve been at where they wont start one of the lead clamps has been loose on the post, whilst not the cause it certainly didn’t help to have a weaken battery
you've cleaned CB points, so have you flicked them to see that there's a spark?
do they open and close themselves?
are they correctly gapped?
are they new stock?
BTW - you do want to have that battery fully charged and electrode level to top up level
by taking it off you also get the opportunity to clean up battery posts and lead clamps
last two cars I’ve been at where they wont start one of the lead clamps has been loose on the post, whilst not the cause it certainly didn’t help to have a weaken battery
na said:
Sorry I'm very slow at typing, whilst I prepare on Word.doc -
you've cleaned CB points, so have you flicked them to see that there's a spark?
do they open and close themselves?
are they correctly gapped?
are they new stock?
BTW - you do want to have that battery fully charged and electrode level to top up level
by taking it off you also get the opportunity to clean up battery posts and lead clamps
last two cars I’ve been at where they wont start one of the lead clamps has been loose on the post, whilst not the cause it certainly didn’t help to have a weaken battery
No problem you've cleaned CB points, so have you flicked them to see that there's a spark?
do they open and close themselves?
are they correctly gapped?
are they new stock?
BTW - you do want to have that battery fully charged and electrode level to top up level
by taking it off you also get the opportunity to clean up battery posts and lead clamps
last two cars I’ve been at where they wont start one of the lead clamps has been loose on the post, whilst not the cause it certainly didn’t help to have a weaken battery
Just checked No spark when flicked they do open and they do move though..
are they correctly gapped? - Yes
and they are the contacts fitted when I got the car 18 months ago
Battery is new (a year old) and has a good charge but I will clean up battery posts and lead clamps
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