Classic ownership without a garage to store it in.
Discussion
Is it a massive no no or are the breathable outdoor covers pretty good?
Basically I'm in the process of selling a second car and would like to purchase a classic but only have a driveway to keep it on. There is simply no way I can clear everything out of the garage to fit a car in, no way at all. If I was to purchase a restored classic or one from abroad with no rust, would it begin to disintegrate in front of my eyes, or would a decent cover protect it from the british elements?
Basically I'm in the process of selling a second car and would like to purchase a classic but only have a driveway to keep it on. There is simply no way I can clear everything out of the garage to fit a car in, no way at all. If I was to purchase a restored classic or one from abroad with no rust, would it begin to disintegrate in front of my eyes, or would a decent cover protect it from the british elements?
I've owned "classics" as daily drivers that live on the street for many years now. A lot of what you're asking depends on the type of classic - Italian steel or fifties Yank tank etc. - what are you considering?
My old Triumphs fared remarkably well outside, the other half's Herald has one small welded patch underneath (tho' it is going a little around the edges) and is constantly covered in all the detritus of living up a small lane in a rural area - prior to us buying it a carport had been its home for the last twenty years. When I lived in town my Bristol lived on the street as did my 924 which was as good when I sold it as when I bought it. My greatest worry was always vandalism.
My old Triumphs fared remarkably well outside, the other half's Herald has one small welded patch underneath (tho' it is going a little around the edges) and is constantly covered in all the detritus of living up a small lane in a rural area - prior to us buying it a carport had been its home for the last twenty years. When I lived in town my Bristol lived on the street as did my 924 which was as good when I sold it as when I bought it. My greatest worry was always vandalism.
Of course not - remember all cars built before 2000 were garaged their entire life and never taken outside, let alone LEFT outside!...
Sure, garaging is better - especially if you are thinking of a '70s British convertible that's less water-tight than a tea bag but if you're talking a hard-top you should be fine. Main thing is wash it regularly and wash it well as it's the salt left on it and the water trapped in corners by dirt and mud that start problems. Keep that under control and you should be fine.
Either that of rent a garage near-by off someone else.
Sure, garaging is better - especially if you are thinking of a '70s British convertible that's less water-tight than a tea bag but if you're talking a hard-top you should be fine. Main thing is wash it regularly and wash it well as it's the salt left on it and the water trapped in corners by dirt and mud that start problems. Keep that under control and you should be fine.
Either that of rent a garage near-by off someone else.
Edited by //j17 on Wednesday 21st November 16:17
Try a perambulator garage... search on ebay.. much better than a cover. I have found that breathable covers ALWAYS let in water eventually. The water repellent they use drops in efficiency and they are never fully water proof in any case.
Case in point - I have a hugely expensive cover from Covercraft (£350), their top of the line item. Breathable but lets in water for anything more than passing shower. I have had to get a crappy, non breathable but waterprooof cover that is loose fitting, that is now sitting on top of the expensive cover.with polistyrene bloaks in between to make sure the air circulates. Would use a perambulator but there is no room...
Case in point - I have a hugely expensive cover from Covercraft (£350), their top of the line item. Breathable but lets in water for anything more than passing shower. I have had to get a crappy, non breathable but waterprooof cover that is loose fitting, that is now sitting on top of the expensive cover.with polistyrene bloaks in between to make sure the air circulates. Would use a perambulator but there is no room...
Cheers for the replies.
I'm currently contemplating several different cars, some british (MG or Triumph GT6) or my preference, a classic Alfa (dreaded italin steel). I'll probably end up with a restored MG or GT6 which seem to be far better value for money, but I really want the Alfa...
The car won't be sat on the drive doing nothing for most of the year as I want to use it a few times a week, to work and on my days off.
I would have one of those cacoon type things but it'd look awful on the drive to be fair.
I'm currently contemplating several different cars, some british (MG or Triumph GT6) or my preference, a classic Alfa (dreaded italin steel). I'll probably end up with a restored MG or GT6 which seem to be far better value for money, but I really want the Alfa...
The car won't be sat on the drive doing nothing for most of the year as I want to use it a few times a week, to work and on my days off.
I would have one of those cacoon type things but it'd look awful on the drive to be fair.
Don't be put off by the Italian dream if that is what you really want. I own several classic Italians, one of which (a 1984 Alfetta GTV 6) is my daily driven car all year round and lives on my drive, never covered. Yes, it does deteriorate faster than a garage car, but, and this is the major factor when keeping a classic outside, because I use her all year round I just don't get the same type of electrical or sticky brake issues that many garage cars that are only used for tiny mileages suffer from.
I added 140,000 miles to the 95,000 already on my last GTV 6 over a 12 year period. She was tired by then, but was only finished off by a mishap with a Land Rover. She wasn't written off, but had reached the point where I decided to take the money and put it into the GTV 6 I now run as she did need restoring properly to keep her going for another 12 years. The key is proper rust protection, if Alfa had done it when they were new they'd have lasted twice as long.
I have driven several MGB's and 2 GT6's and I promise you that they are like driving a ropey old pile of turd by comparison to the Italian machinery, so go shopping and enjoy sir!!
I added 140,000 miles to the 95,000 already on my last GTV 6 over a 12 year period. She was tired by then, but was only finished off by a mishap with a Land Rover. She wasn't written off, but had reached the point where I decided to take the money and put it into the GTV 6 I now run as she did need restoring properly to keep her going for another 12 years. The key is proper rust protection, if Alfa had done it when they were new they'd have lasted twice as long.
I have driven several MGB's and 2 GT6's and I promise you that they are like driving a ropey old pile of turd by comparison to the Italian machinery, so go shopping and enjoy sir!!
OP, if you have the space try one of these. They work brilliantly and act as a mini-workshop meaning there's enough space inside to work on the car. They also have excellent airflow so no rusting problems. If you search ebay there are some vendors who sell the same at £150.
http://www.kmsdirect.co.uk/shop/index.php?main_pag...
Alternatively, why not build a car port for primary protection?
http://www.kmsdirect.co.uk/shop/index.php?main_pag...
Alternatively, why not build a car port for primary protection?
CHN said:
Cheers for the replies.
I'm currently contemplating several different cars, some british (MG or Triumph GT6) or my preference, a classic Alfa (dreaded italin steel). I'll probably end up with a restored MG or GT6 which seem to be far better value for money, but I really want the Alfa...
The car won't be sat on the drive doing nothing for most of the year as I want to use it a few times a week, to work and on my days off.
I would have one of those cacoon type things but it'd look awful on the drive to be fair.
I've had classics (and more modern) for the last 20 years only one was garaged at a neighbour's all the rest were kept outside all year round, I've never had a garageI'm currently contemplating several different cars, some british (MG or Triumph GT6) or my preference, a classic Alfa (dreaded italin steel). I'll probably end up with a restored MG or GT6 which seem to be far better value for money, but I really want the Alfa...
The car won't be sat on the drive doing nothing for most of the year as I want to use it a few times a week, to work and on my days off.
I would have one of those cacoon type things but it'd look awful on the drive to be fair.
sometimes I have used covers on them if the car wasn't to be used for a couple of weeks or so, or had been cleaned ready for an event a few days later
frequent use of the car all year around is better for the whole car than it being unused in many garages
frequent use all year round on reasonable length journeys (say 15-20 miles minimum) and regular servicing are ideal
if you use it frequently then there's no point having a cover as you should only put the cover on a washed and dried clean car
not all hoods leak so a hardtop isn't necessary for those and if you do fit a hardtop you miss out on many roof down days and opportunities - Bs and Spridgets certainly don't have to have leaky roofs but some previous and present owners make them that way - in fact that's one of the biggest problems with classics - previous and present owners
IroningMan said:
Without regular use the interior will sprout wildlife in no time. The Scimitar lives outside all year, but the seat, harness and steering wheel come in for the winter.
I found this on mine! despite a quality cover if you aren't using it this will happen. Also the nice soft rubber on my wheels cracked and therefore I had to replace all 4 tyres before I could drive it again!My experience of keeping my classics on the drive have taught me three things:
1. Take great care to buy a car that doesn't leak: check carpets thoroughly, ask lots of questions, if at all possible get a water hose or car wash on it to check. If it leaks, walk away or budget to get it fixed straight away. A dry car will last a lot better outdoors than one that leaks, regardless of the cover.
2. Get it waxoyled properly and professionally, and have it redone every few years. And keep an eye out for any evidence that it isn't as leak-proof as it was.
3. Then budget good money for running repairs to the bodywork: keeping your classic in the condition it was in when you bought it takes really money and effort, in my experience.
Oh, and buy something you really love looking at: you (and your missus) will be staring at it every day, and you need to be sure it pleases you rather than makes you feel bad.
Good luck!
1. Take great care to buy a car that doesn't leak: check carpets thoroughly, ask lots of questions, if at all possible get a water hose or car wash on it to check. If it leaks, walk away or budget to get it fixed straight away. A dry car will last a lot better outdoors than one that leaks, regardless of the cover.
2. Get it waxoyled properly and professionally, and have it redone every few years. And keep an eye out for any evidence that it isn't as leak-proof as it was.
3. Then budget good money for running repairs to the bodywork: keeping your classic in the condition it was in when you bought it takes really money and effort, in my experience.
Oh, and buy something you really love looking at: you (and your missus) will be staring at it every day, and you need to be sure it pleases you rather than makes you feel bad.
Good luck!
Justin,
first you need to see if a classic will suit you (sir), whether you could put up with driving them frequently
just as one example, the GT6 is very tight for cabin space and that's from a current Midget owner (and previous GT6 owner) and the cabins do get very warm especially in summer, some can put up with this others can't
some can enjoy the use of the soft top (only) all year round, dropping the roof at the opportunities all year round whilst others want/need the use of a hard top or prefer a tin top anyway
classics like you're suggesting shouldn't be slow, poor handling, cold and leaky but many previous and present owners do make and keep them this way
a snippet of my usual advice for potential owners (PM me if you want more) as a daily user of classics for over 20 years:-
Buy an owners Handbook before even looking for the car and read it thoroughly as it tells you so much you need to know to own, drive, service and maintain your car and it’s very useful to have as a paper copy (even if you get electronic copies later)
Look at and test drive as many good examples as you can including some well out of your buying budget to see how good the cars should be and that you may need to increase your budget – it usually works out less expensive to buy a good but higher priced example than a poor lower priced example
first you need to see if a classic will suit you (sir), whether you could put up with driving them frequently
just as one example, the GT6 is very tight for cabin space and that's from a current Midget owner (and previous GT6 owner) and the cabins do get very warm especially in summer, some can put up with this others can't
some can enjoy the use of the soft top (only) all year round, dropping the roof at the opportunities all year round whilst others want/need the use of a hard top or prefer a tin top anyway
classics like you're suggesting shouldn't be slow, poor handling, cold and leaky but many previous and present owners do make and keep them this way
a snippet of my usual advice for potential owners (PM me if you want more) as a daily user of classics for over 20 years:-
Buy an owners Handbook before even looking for the car and read it thoroughly as it tells you so much you need to know to own, drive, service and maintain your car and it’s very useful to have as a paper copy (even if you get electronic copies later)
Look at and test drive as many good examples as you can including some well out of your buying budget to see how good the cars should be and that you may need to increase your budget – it usually works out less expensive to buy a good but higher priced example than a poor lower priced example
v8250 said:
OP, if you have the space try one of these. They work brilliantly and act as a mini-workshop meaning there's enough space inside to work on the car. They also have excellent airflow so no rusting problems. If you search ebay there are some vendors who sell the same at £150.
http://www.kmsdirect.co.uk/shop/index.php?main_pag...
Alternatively, why not build a car port for primary protection?
How do these secure to the ground - I live in a rented place, so permanent fixing to the tarmac drive isn't possiblehttp://www.kmsdirect.co.uk/shop/index.php?main_pag...
Alternatively, why not build a car port for primary protection?
sawman said:
How do these secure to the ground - I live in a rented place, so permanent fixing to the tarmac drive isn't possible
The trick is to not use temporary fixings i.e. concrete slaps. Use 100mm concrete screws straight into the driveway. There are two screw holes per pole/foot. No need to pre-drill, with HEX head on hand drill, drill all the way in. Suggest erect car tent, use concrete screws, and when you move-on fill holes with tar/concrete...no one will ever notice. I have one of these and assure you this fixing/car tent stands up to all weathers...buy screws herehttp://www.screwfix.com/p/spit-tapcon-hex-head-con...
Gassing Station | Classic Cars and Yesterday's Heroes | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff