Getting a car going thats been sitting
Discussion
Hi all. Im certainly know where near mechanicly minded but just wanted a little advice on getting a car running
For you who dont know, I have a 71 capri 1600L capri which has not been on the road since 94. I have been told that the car may of been running last in 2006 but Im not too sure
I have turned the engine over but no luck of it firing
I have no experience with classic cars so should I put a little petrol in the carb?
thanks
Also Ive taken the screws off the top of the airfilter housing but cant find a way to prise it off? heres a picture

For you who dont know, I have a 71 capri 1600L capri which has not been on the road since 94. I have been told that the car may of been running last in 2006 but Im not too sure
I have turned the engine over but no luck of it firing
I have no experience with classic cars so should I put a little petrol in the carb?
thanks

Also Ive taken the screws off the top of the airfilter housing but cant find a way to prise it off? heres a picture
Firstly I'd check that you have all the right fluids in the right places! Bung some new oil in in, even if it's cheap stuff it'll be better than 20 year old sludge.
Unplug the feed to the coil so that it doesn't fire, then turn it over for long enough for the oil light to go out.
Put the coil lead back on, remove the plugs clean (or replace) them and see if you've got a spark, if not, I'd start by checking and cleaning the points (assuming it has them).
If the car has had fuel sitting in it for years then it'll be no good and will want draining and new stuff putting in. Regarding putting some fuel in the carb - yes, it will help it start - however, I have personally reduced a car to cinders by doing this though so be warned!
Unplug the feed to the coil so that it doesn't fire, then turn it over for long enough for the oil light to go out.
Put the coil lead back on, remove the plugs clean (or replace) them and see if you've got a spark, if not, I'd start by checking and cleaning the points (assuming it has them).
If the car has had fuel sitting in it for years then it'll be no good and will want draining and new stuff putting in. Regarding putting some fuel in the carb - yes, it will help it start - however, I have personally reduced a car to cinders by doing this though so be warned!
Well my thoughts would be:
- Change the plugs and leads as the leads will be rather old by now
- Remove the distributor cap and check the rotor arm and distributor contacts, possibly scour them if they are corroded and not nice and shiny
- Put a nice new battery in there as the old one will probably be really knackered
- Blast some carb cleaner into the the carbs and wiggle anything wiggleable to free and seized parts
- Maybe think about draining the tank and refilling with fresh fuel as I imagine 7yr old petrol won't be great
- Replace the air filter. If all the clips/screws holding the air filter lid on are undone then just bully it off. If in doubt, stick a screwdriver in and lever it off.
I'd emphasise jim's advice. Remove the plugs, it also reduces the strain on the unlubricated bearings, as well as prevnting it firing, and turn over the engine until you can be sure that all the nice, clean, new oil has got everywhere, especially the camshaft and followers. Take off the rocker cover so you can see the oil arriving. Probably best with jump leads from a running car, as it will run down a battery.
Rather than fuel in the carb throat, use some 'Startyerbasterd' spray (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cY1YndLmbXQ&gl=GB&hl=en-GB) or else 'Quick Start'. You can just spray it in the air intake, but if you have the filter lid off, down the middle. Cleaner, safer, and if it does let it start then the problem is fuelling, not sparking. Useful diagnostic tool!
Beware of leaks. A car sitting that long will need ALL its flexible connectors replacing, fuel, water, brake, everything.
Rather than fuel in the carb throat, use some 'Startyerbasterd' spray (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cY1YndLmbXQ&gl=GB&hl=en-GB) or else 'Quick Start'. You can just spray it in the air intake, but if you have the filter lid off, down the middle. Cleaner, safer, and if it does let it start then the problem is fuelling, not sparking. Useful diagnostic tool!
Beware of leaks. A car sitting that long will need ALL its flexible connectors replacing, fuel, water, brake, everything.
Edited by tapkaJohnD on Saturday 22 December 18:37
Edited by tapkaJohnD on Saturday 22 December 18:38
itiejim said:
Firstly I'd check that you have all the right fluids in the right places! Bung some new oil in in, even if it's cheap stuff it'll be better than 20 year old sludge.
Unplug the feed to the coil so that it doesn't fire, then turn it over for long enough for the oil light to go out.
Put the coil lead back on, remove the plugs clean (or replace) them and see if you've got a spark, if not, I'd start by checking and cleaning the points (assuming it has them).
If the car has had fuel sitting in it for years then it'll be no good and will want draining and new stuff putting in. Regarding putting some fuel in the carb - yes, it will help it start - however, I have personally reduced a car to cinders by doing this though so be warned!
as above. new plugs and points for what its worth.Unplug the feed to the coil so that it doesn't fire, then turn it over for long enough for the oil light to go out.
Put the coil lead back on, remove the plugs clean (or replace) them and see if you've got a spark, if not, I'd start by checking and cleaning the points (assuming it has them).
If the car has had fuel sitting in it for years then it'll be no good and will want draining and new stuff putting in. Regarding putting some fuel in the carb - yes, it will help it start - however, I have personally reduced a car to cinders by doing this though so be warned!
They are a pretty simple engine so shouldnt take too much to fire up!
the car dealer said:
Hi all. Im certainly know where near mechanicly minded but just wanted a little advice on getting a car running
For you who dont know, I have a 71 capri 1600L capri which has not been on the road since 94. I have been told that the car may of been running last in 2006 but Im not too sure
I have turned the engine over but no luck of it firing
I have no experience with classic cars so should I put a little petrol in the carb?
thanks
Also Ive taken the screws off the top of the airfilter housing but cant find a way to prise it off? heres a picture

Errm, a car-dealer who's not mechanically-minded and asking how to start a car on the interweb???For you who dont know, I have a 71 capri 1600L capri which has not been on the road since 94. I have been told that the car may of been running last in 2006 but Im not too sure
I have turned the engine over but no luck of it firing
I have no experience with classic cars so should I put a little petrol in the carb?
thanks

Also Ive taken the screws off the top of the airfilter housing but cant find a way to prise it off? heres a picture
Lots may be technically correct but my Dad specialises in buying old non runners and 99% of the time a gallon of fresh petrol in the tank and a few capfulls down the carb combined with a jump pack gets them going.
(If the tank is full then you'd be advised to empty it first but in 99% of cases they tend to be stored with only a gallon or two)
(If the tank is full then you'd be advised to empty it first but in 99% of cases they tend to be stored with only a gallon or two)
most important part is never getting the engine started but getting the car to stop
before getting the car on the road you'll need to:
. replace brake (and clutch) fluid, flexi-hoses, possibly seals, possibly pads hard with age, discs rusted
. replace tyres regardless of tread depth - http://www.carbibles.com/tyre_bible.html
. replace suspension bushes and possibly springs
. clean electric connections for lights, horn ect.
you'll want to do all of above and what other have posted as part of a staggered 36k-mile service whilst frequently driving the car to get rid of the problems not prevented by the servicing
cleaning the whole coolant system (engine block, radiator, heater matrix) and replacing the coolant/antifreeze is also very important for engine use
before getting the car on the road you'll need to:
. replace brake (and clutch) fluid, flexi-hoses, possibly seals, possibly pads hard with age, discs rusted
. replace tyres regardless of tread depth - http://www.carbibles.com/tyre_bible.html
. replace suspension bushes and possibly springs
. clean electric connections for lights, horn ect.
you'll want to do all of above and what other have posted as part of a staggered 36k-mile service whilst frequently driving the car to get rid of the problems not prevented by the servicing
cleaning the whole coolant system (engine block, radiator, heater matrix) and replacing the coolant/antifreeze is also very important for engine use
When you have done everything suggested, blow hot hair from a domestic hair dryer onto the inlet manifold for a few minutes until the manifold feels warm to the touch....(Make sure the dryer is kept WELL away from the carb...(Petrol fumes).....
This helps vapourise the neat petrol....and old dodge my dad told me from being a taxi driver....
Failing that, put an old towel in a bucket of boiling water, rinse it out and lay the hot towel on top of the manifold, remembering to remove it if (and when) the engine fires up......
This helps vapourise the neat petrol....and old dodge my dad told me from being a taxi driver....
Failing that, put an old towel in a bucket of boiling water, rinse it out and lay the hot towel on top of the manifold, remembering to remove it if (and when) the engine fires up......
Something that I would recommend that no one seems to have said is to put a tea spoon full of oil down each bore when you've got the plugs out spinning it over to circulate the oil, the oil down the bores creates a seal between the rings and bores, they will have dried out over six yrs, and and engine won't run without compression!!
na said:
most important part is never getting the engine started but getting the car to stop
before getting the car on the road you'll need to:
. replace brake (and clutch) fluid, flexi-hoses, possibly seals, possibly pads hard with age, discs rusted
. replace tyres regardless of tread depth - http://www.carbibles.com/tyre_bible.html
. replace suspension bushes and possibly springs
. clean electric connections for lights, horn ect.
you'll want to do all of above and what other have posted as part of a staggered 36k-mile service whilst frequently driving the car to get rid of the problems not prevented by the servicing
cleaning the whole coolant system (engine block, radiator, heater matrix) and replacing the coolant/antifreeze is also very important for engine use
How strange - been reviving dead cars for 20+yrs and never had to do any of that. They are far more resilient than you think.before getting the car on the road you'll need to:
. replace brake (and clutch) fluid, flexi-hoses, possibly seals, possibly pads hard with age, discs rusted
. replace tyres regardless of tread depth - http://www.carbibles.com/tyre_bible.html
. replace suspension bushes and possibly springs
. clean electric connections for lights, horn ect.
you'll want to do all of above and what other have posted as part of a staggered 36k-mile service whilst frequently driving the car to get rid of the problems not prevented by the servicing
cleaning the whole coolant system (engine block, radiator, heater matrix) and replacing the coolant/antifreeze is also very important for engine use
V8RX7 said:
na said:
most important part is never getting the engine started but getting the car to stop
before getting the car on the road you'll need to:
. replace brake (and clutch) fluid, flexi-hoses, possibly seals, possibly pads hard with age, discs rusted
. replace tyres regardless of tread depth - http://www.carbibles.com/tyre_bible.html
. replace suspension bushes and possibly springs
. clean electric connections for lights, horn ect.
you'll want to do all of above and what other have posted as part of a staggered 36k-mile service whilst frequently driving the car to get rid of the problems not prevented by the servicing
cleaning the whole coolant system (engine block, radiator, heater matrix) and replacing the coolant/antifreeze is also very important for engine use
How strange - been reviving dead cars for 20+yrs and never had to do any of that. They are far more resilient than you think.before getting the car on the road you'll need to:
. replace brake (and clutch) fluid, flexi-hoses, possibly seals, possibly pads hard with age, discs rusted
. replace tyres regardless of tread depth - http://www.carbibles.com/tyre_bible.html
. replace suspension bushes and possibly springs
. clean electric connections for lights, horn ect.
you'll want to do all of above and what other have posted as part of a staggered 36k-mile service whilst frequently driving the car to get rid of the problems not prevented by the servicing
cleaning the whole coolant system (engine block, radiator, heater matrix) and replacing the coolant/antifreeze is also very important for engine use
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