Had a Drive of an MGBGT (Revisited)
Discussion
Further to a thread of about 18 months ago, having had a few further short drives of my Father-in-Law's MGB after various repairs and improvements, I had a slightly more involved drive yesterday.
The original brake issues have now been resolved. The car stops quite well without too much pedal pressure and in a straight line.
The engine starts well and pulls fairly cleanly,, accelerating enough for normal driving, albeit not quickly, but I've no idea how they should perform.
The dry weather handling is reasonably good, although in the wet it is a bit 'interesting'. I put this down to the poor tyres. Any good recommendations for some decent, comfortable tyres for 14" Rostyles? What width/profile (currently 165)?
ps. If the car were mine I'd be looking to experiment with suspension setup (it is a rubber bumper car with chrome conversion, not sure if the suspension was modified), but the owner is happy with it as it is.
The original brake issues have now been resolved. The car stops quite well without too much pedal pressure and in a straight line.
The engine starts well and pulls fairly cleanly,, accelerating enough for normal driving, albeit not quickly, but I've no idea how they should perform.
The dry weather handling is reasonably good, although in the wet it is a bit 'interesting'. I put this down to the poor tyres. Any good recommendations for some decent, comfortable tyres for 14" Rostyles? What width/profile (currently 165)?
ps. If the car were mine I'd be looking to experiment with suspension setup (it is a rubber bumper car with chrome conversion, not sure if the suspension was modified), but the owner is happy with it as it is.
Edited by MC Bodge on Sunday 10th March 13:54
MC Bodge said:
Further to a thread of about 18 months ago, having had a few further short drives of my Father-in-Law's MGB after various repairs and improvements, I had a slightly more involved drive yesterday.
The original brake issues have now been resolved. The car stops quite well without too much pedal pressure and in a straight line.
The engine starts well and pulls fairly cleanly,, accelerating enough for normal driving, albeit not quickly, but I've no idea how they should perform.
The dry weather handling is reasonably good, although in the wet it is a bit 'interesting'. I put this down to the poor tyres. Any good recommendations for some decent, comfortable tyres for 14" Rostyles? What width/profile (currently 165)?
ps. If the car were mine I'd be looking to experiment with suspension setup (it is a rubber bumper car with chrome conversion, not sure if the suspension was modified), but the owner is happy with it as it is.
It's not a quick car - 60 is about 11 or 12 seconds, from memory. The original brake issues have now been resolved. The car stops quite well without too much pedal pressure and in a straight line.
The engine starts well and pulls fairly cleanly,, accelerating enough for normal driving, albeit not quickly, but I've no idea how they should perform.
The dry weather handling is reasonably good, although in the wet it is a bit 'interesting'. I put this down to the poor tyres. Any good recommendations for some decent, comfortable tyres for 14" Rostyles? What width/profile (currently 165)?
ps. If the car were mine I'd be looking to experiment with suspension setup (it is a rubber bumper car with chrome conversion, not sure if the suspension was modified), but the owner is happy with it as it is.
Edited by MC Bodge on Sunday 10th March 13:54
Suspension will have been modified for the chrome conversion, since the ride height has to be dropped by an inch. It was probably done in conjunction with the fitment of uprated shocks and springs which may have upset the handling a bit. Check for leaky Spax. Check the tyre pressures - they should be set a lot lower than the 30-odd PSI they likely currently have, (21 front, 26 rear according to the manual), and that would make it a bit skittish in the wet.
davepoth said:
It's not a quick car - 60 is about 11 or 12 seconds, from memory.
I wasn't doing drag starts to test 0-60!It doesn't feel like a 1.6 modern car on the move, although there does appear to be reasonable low rpm torque.
davepoth said:
Suspension will have been modified for the chrome conversion, since the ride height has to be dropped by an inch. It was probably done in conjunction with the fitment of uprated shocks and springs which may have upset the handling a bit. Check for leaky Spax.
I'm not sure that it has been lowered. I'd have to measure it.It certainly doesn't have Spax shocks fitted though.davepoth said:
Check the tyre pressures - they should be set a lot lower than the 30-odd PSI they likely currently have, (21 front, 26 rear according to the manual)
Interesting. I'll ask the F-I-L what he's put in, although the aged ditch-finders aren't going to be helping.Edited by MC Bodge on Sunday 10th March 15:32
As for tyres I have fitted Vredestein Sprint Classics to replace the 20 year old Goodyears which were hard as nails. They're not especially cheap but they look good and seem to handle ok. Apart from a scary amount of understeer when the fronts were less than five miles old and I pitched the car into a roundabout a bit enthusiasticaly that is!
0-60 isn't very quick but it should feel spritely at lower speeds due to a fair amount of torque, low weight and twin carbs.
0-60 isn't very quick but it should feel spritely at lower speeds due to a fair amount of torque, low weight and twin carbs.
Having had a look, there's nothing to suggest modifications to the suspension -certainly no lowering blocks. I suspect it is 'standard' for a late RB model.
The current tyres (at recommended pressures) have definitely seen better days
Edit: having had a chat about it, it turns out that the F-i-L had also noted the dodgy rear end in the wet. I've persuaded him that the hard plastic currently fitted to the wheels isn't helping.
New tyres and a good checking over of the suspension bushes are on the cards.
The current tyres (at recommended pressures) have definitely seen better days
Edit: having had a chat about it, it turns out that the F-i-L had also noted the dodgy rear end in the wet. I've persuaded him that the hard plastic currently fitted to the wheels isn't helping.
New tyres and a good checking over of the suspension bushes are on the cards.
Edited by MC Bodge on Sunday 10th March 23:14
if the tyres are that old, you/he will be amazed with the transformation new tyres will make. i swapped out 3 million year old, crap make tyres for new continental 185/70r14 over christmas (with a wire to bolt-on conversion) and it is the best thing i have done to the car so far. the noise is noticably improved too. worked out about £60 ea.
they def feel and handle better with 3-4 more psi than the manual recommends, though.
they def feel and handle better with 3-4 more psi than the manual recommends, though.
Defo look at the suspension bushes. Mine were f
ked and when replaced they made such a difference to the day-to-day driving characteristics. The Vredestein tyres I have are the original 165 R14 size and profile and I use 28psi on the front and 31psi on the back. If you're anywhere near Bristol and want to try a different set of (old) tyres let me know as I have a complete set.
ked and when replaced they made such a difference to the day-to-day driving characteristics. The Vredestein tyres I have are the original 165 R14 size and profile and I use 28psi on the front and 31psi on the back. If you're anywhere near Bristol and want to try a different set of (old) tyres let me know as I have a complete set.you make a very good point that you don't know how well a BGT should go, neither do many owners or potential owners or even long term owners as they've never driven a BGT in really good condition to do a comparison, many cars look very good but are not in best driving condition, conversely some scruffy examples drive very well usually because they are used frequently and fully and properly serviced regularly
your f-i-l BGT sounds like it could be typical, i.e. not running to it's full potentiality possibly because of lack of frequent use and full and proper servicing (of the whole car)
servicing is often forgotten or the full schedule not carried out, some think that if a car doesn't do many miles then it needs less or no servicing when quite the opposite is true the less miles the more servicing of certain parts is required
short and infrequent journeys help no car especially classics and just starting a car and leaving it running instead of taking it for a drive can possibly do more harm than not starting the car
a BGT should not be slow or poor handling or unreliable it's only previous and present owners that make them that way - true they wont be up to modern car stands but they should feel reasonably brisk once underway and whilst softer feeling ride and handling than modern sportscars they should be pleasing to take on bends
the rear end is again probably typical, tyres with loads of tread left but old and hard through age and lack of use as many have said change the tyres first - take it easy on new tyres for the first 50-100 miles as they can be very greasy and cause sliding, also check wheel nut torque after about 30 miles, both these things should be pointed out by the tyre fitting place but many don't but it might be in the paperwork so check
if after bedding the tyres in the back end is still loose it could be - worn bushes - loose U-bolts that hold rear springs to axle - worn dampers - springs - anti-roll bar connections or bushes
if you put a photo up or measure from the centre of the wheels to the underside of the wheel arches someone will be able to tell you if it sits at rubber bumper ride height or chrome bumper ride height (subject to suspension not having sagged) - and don't be surprised if the measurement from each wheel varies
your f-i-l BGT sounds like it could be typical, i.e. not running to it's full potentiality possibly because of lack of frequent use and full and proper servicing (of the whole car)
servicing is often forgotten or the full schedule not carried out, some think that if a car doesn't do many miles then it needs less or no servicing when quite the opposite is true the less miles the more servicing of certain parts is required
short and infrequent journeys help no car especially classics and just starting a car and leaving it running instead of taking it for a drive can possibly do more harm than not starting the car
a BGT should not be slow or poor handling or unreliable it's only previous and present owners that make them that way - true they wont be up to modern car stands but they should feel reasonably brisk once underway and whilst softer feeling ride and handling than modern sportscars they should be pleasing to take on bends
the rear end is again probably typical, tyres with loads of tread left but old and hard through age and lack of use as many have said change the tyres first - take it easy on new tyres for the first 50-100 miles as they can be very greasy and cause sliding, also check wheel nut torque after about 30 miles, both these things should be pointed out by the tyre fitting place but many don't but it might be in the paperwork so check
if after bedding the tyres in the back end is still loose it could be - worn bushes - loose U-bolts that hold rear springs to axle - worn dampers - springs - anti-roll bar connections or bushes
if you put a photo up or measure from the centre of the wheels to the underside of the wheel arches someone will be able to tell you if it sits at rubber bumper ride height or chrome bumper ride height (subject to suspension not having sagged) - and don't be surprised if the measurement from each wheel varies
Richie Howard said:
if the tyres are that old, you/he will be amazed with the transformation new tyres will make. i swapped out 3 million year old, crap make tyres for new continental 185/70r14 over christmas (with a wire to bolt-on conversion) and it is the best thing i have done to the car so far. the noise is noticably improved too. worked out about £60 ea.
they def feel and handle better with 3-4 more psi than the manual recommends, though.
depends on your suspension set up and the tyres in question, I usually put experiment with plus 2 to 6 psi, increasing in 2 psi steps until too hard then drop back 2 psi but with my present tyres (on a Midget) I'm back to Handbook pressures to suit they def feel and handle better with 3-4 more psi than the manual recommends, though.
coppice said:
0-60 varies from high 11s to mid 13s depending on model- nominally all same but Motor got several different times. An easier and safer test is 30-50 in top; this should take between 8,8 and 9.5 secs. I shall now remove my anorak..
a better test that fair enough on a new car but it's more about how it feels than figures on paper and jurnos are ragging the cars to get the figures - but it is a good test to try a car in good overall mechanical condition should probably get near to those figures or if it's been modernised slightly it might even better the lower end at leastpetrol used 95, 97, 99 and lack of servicing and set up could be highlighted
coppice said:
You don't need to rag it for 30-50- no standing start, just full power in top for a few seconds.
yeap I agree, I was thinking more of the 0-60any B should do the 30-50 in fourth gear pedal to the metal but you can imagine some of them coughing, spluttering and farting as it's been decades since they've been WOT and probably as long since a full and proper service
coppice said:
- my old MG Midget felt brisk but wouldn't keep up with a Yaris now...
depends what model you had, mid-to-later models in good condition should easily keep up with a Yaris on B roads and many A-roads ... in fact any roads, I think your confusing Spridget drivers with B drivers 
I bought my 1978 MGB from a hillclimbing privateer, who had lowered the suspension with uprated lever arms on the front and lowering shackles on the back then put 185/70 14 Yokohamas all round with 26psi front and 28psi rear. I put electronic Accu-spark ignition on and K&N air filters,and a big bore stainless exhaust, which made the car on a rolling road test about 5 or 6 bhp better than standard with predictable reliable grip, for fun driving, never felt sluggish, but compared to more modern vehicles not earth moving.
As for ride height you could almost get 2 fingers between the top of the tyre and the underside of the wheel arches, approximately.
As for ride height you could almost get 2 fingers between the top of the tyre and the underside of the wheel arches, approximately.
coppice said:
Doubt it- every Midget I drove had the grip of a labrador puppy on linoleum; entertaining but slow.
either you were on crossplys or you must have been one of those owners I was referring to earlier then or a Yaris is a lot better than I realisedI've been out on PH runs and had compliments on how well my Midget grip on the twisty roads and had a Westie and Noble stay behind me because they were enjoying watching the car go round the bends, the Noble chap said he expected to come round some bends and see us going backwards on the other side of the road, I was with my wife in the car so I wasn't pushing the limits of my poor driving abilities let alone the car's
this is my second Spridget and I've had a few modern sportscars, though none ultragrip need to do illegal speeds to raise the slight grin type and I've never driven a Yaris so I'll have to take your word for it that your Midgets wouldn't keep up with a Yaris now and possibly neither would my Midget but I'd still have thought a Spridget in good condition now would keep up with a Yaris easier than a Yaris would keep up with a Spridget
not that it matters as it's all about how the car feels and the enjoyment it gives, I often say that a classic is more entertaining as you're working harder to maintain even sometimes a lower speeds whilst even a mediocre modern family car has the driver bored at the wheel whilst they and the car's electronics handle the drive very easily
Well , one thing I have never had is rose tinted spectacles and whilst the Midgets I drove all had decent rubber , they had hardly any grip by modern standards. Put one on a set of Yokos now and they might grip but on whatever I was using back in the day- G800s was it? Sp Sports - I forget , they were comically lacking in grip and skipped around gaily on any bumps. The only car I drove back thenwhich had serious grip was my little Clan Crusader, which was Lotus like in its cornering.It's not that Yaris are especially good it's just that by 60's standards nearly everything grips like a limpet. Last car I drove which was laugh ouit loud lacking in grip was an Avis Panda over the Raticosa Pass- massive understeer on 155/80s- huge fun.
I don't think I've got rose tinted specs as I was still it school when you were hopping about
IIRC I don't think they were G800 and possibly not SP Sports, they were 145/80 for pressed steel wheels
as it happens my previous tyres were Yokos, 155/70 a.drive, and they gripped quite well especially in the dry
it's true modern cars tend to grip more but you don't always need all that grip and as you say it can be more fun without
I'll match your Panda with a smart, City Coupe at any minroundabout for massive understeer fun
oh, and my present tyres are Toyos 155/80 but with less grip than the Yokos so the Yaris will have to send me a postcard when it get to the end
IIRC I don't think they were G800 and possibly not SP Sports, they were 145/80 for pressed steel wheels
as it happens my previous tyres were Yokos, 155/70 a.drive, and they gripped quite well especially in the dry
it's true modern cars tend to grip more but you don't always need all that grip and as you say it can be more fun without
I'll match your Panda with a smart, City Coupe at any minroundabout for massive understeer fun
oh, and my present tyres are Toyos 155/80 but with less grip than the Yokos so the Yaris will have to send me a postcard when it get to the end
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