Restoring Wood Veneer
Discussion
Hi guys
The wood dash on my Series 3 Jag needs some attention and I was looking for some hints or tips. The wood itself looks reasonable, it's the coating which has decoloured and is coming off. I was hoping to be able to give it some kind of protective coating without removing it from the car, has anyone else done anything similar?
Cheers
Brian
The wood dash on my Series 3 Jag needs some attention and I was looking for some hints or tips. The wood itself looks reasonable, it's the coating which has decoloured and is coming off. I was hoping to be able to give it some kind of protective coating without removing it from the car, has anyone else done anything similar?
Cheers
Brian
It's probably going to be an out-of-car job but the various advice I've read is:
1. Test the type of coating - varnish requires a paint stripper but if it's a thick lacquer it's probably plastic and removed with a heat gun (and care so you don't burn the wood).
2. Assuming a plastic coating Rustins Plastic Coating was recommended to me, though not got around to applying it to my stripped Triumph wood yet...
1. Test the type of coating - varnish requires a paint stripper but if it's a thick lacquer it's probably plastic and removed with a heat gun (and care so you don't burn the wood).
2. Assuming a plastic coating Rustins Plastic Coating was recommended to me, though not got around to applying it to my stripped Triumph wood yet...
Last winter I redid the veneer on the front door cappings of my Rolls Silver Shadow.
I had never done it before but it turned out really well.
1) remove the old varnish. Preferably with paint stripper and if that doesn't work use a heat gun VERY carefully (I had to do that) as not to burn the wood
2) clean the wood
3) sand it lightly with 400 and 600 paper
4) 2 coats of varnish using a soft artists brush
5) sand again with 600 paper
6) again 2 coats of varnish
7) sand again with 800 paper
8) again 2 coats .........
In the end I put on 22 coats of varnish, sanding them down between each 2 coats, each time with finer grade paper.
When finished, polish the wood.
It's very important to keep your working area as spotless as possible as dust can ruin the finish.
Next winter I'll tackle the rest of the wood.
I had never done it before but it turned out really well.
1) remove the old varnish. Preferably with paint stripper and if that doesn't work use a heat gun VERY carefully (I had to do that) as not to burn the wood
2) clean the wood
3) sand it lightly with 400 and 600 paper
4) 2 coats of varnish using a soft artists brush
5) sand again with 600 paper
6) again 2 coats of varnish
7) sand again with 800 paper
8) again 2 coats .........
In the end I put on 22 coats of varnish, sanding them down between each 2 coats, each time with finer grade paper.
When finished, polish the wood.
It's very important to keep your working area as spotless as possible as dust can ruin the finish.
Next winter I'll tackle the rest of the wood.
ecurie said:
Last winter I redid the veneer on the front door cappings of my Rolls Silver Shadow.
I had never done it before but it turned out really well.
1) remove the old varnish. Preferably with paint stripper and if that doesn't work use a heat gun VERY carefully (I had to do that) as not to burn the wood
2) clean the wood
3) sand it lightly with 400 and 600 paper
4) 2 coats of varnish using a soft artists brush
5) sand again with 600 paper
6) again 2 coats of varnish
7) sand again with 800 paper
8) again 2 coats .........
In the end I put on 22 coats of varnish, sanding them down between each 2 coats, each time with finer grade paper.
When finished, polish the wood.
It's very important to keep your working area as spotless as possible as dust can ruin the finish.
Next winter I'll tackle the rest of the wood.
Pictures? Would love to see the finished article. I tried on a Stag and completely ballsed it up!I had never done it before but it turned out really well.
1) remove the old varnish. Preferably with paint stripper and if that doesn't work use a heat gun VERY carefully (I had to do that) as not to burn the wood
2) clean the wood
3) sand it lightly with 400 and 600 paper
4) 2 coats of varnish using a soft artists brush
5) sand again with 600 paper
6) again 2 coats of varnish
7) sand again with 800 paper
8) again 2 coats .........
In the end I put on 22 coats of varnish, sanding them down between each 2 coats, each time with finer grade paper.
When finished, polish the wood.
It's very important to keep your working area as spotless as possible as dust can ruin the finish.
Next winter I'll tackle the rest of the wood.
I tried it on my '66 S Type but in the end had to pass the dash onto an antiques restorer I know.
I completed all of the sanding and then used the spray on varnish but the coat it applies is just too thin.
I think I would try in future to finely sand then apply two quite thick coats of varnish, finely sand as recommended and then use a burnishing cream to level and then apply polish to finish.
Still better to pass to the professionals though as the process takes a lot of time and patience.
Regards all
I completed all of the sanding and then used the spray on varnish but the coat it applies is just too thin.
I think I would try in future to finely sand then apply two quite thick coats of varnish, finely sand as recommended and then use a burnishing cream to level and then apply polish to finish.
Still better to pass to the professionals though as the process takes a lot of time and patience.
Regards all
I apologize for the quality of the pictures. An iPhone and dark garage do not make a good combination apparently.
Both door cappings had suffered water damage, so had to be completely stripped and the top part recoloured.
Give it a try, it's really not that hard.
Stripped door capping :
End result :
Both door cappings had suffered water damage, so had to be completely stripped and the top part recoloured.
Give it a try, it's really not that hard.
Stripped door capping :
End result :
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