What Next - A Corvette ?
Discussion
Having sold my very early E-Type I now have some money burning a hole ...
I'm a serial Jag owner and an XK120 or similar is very tempting but I'm also drawn to moving out of my comfort zone and getting something completely different. An Allard K2 is something I'm long fancied but they're not that easy to find.
I saw an earl Corvette (1960) at a show recently and it got me thinking.... are they a useable classic and would I enjoy owning one ?
Thing is I've never driven one and urban legend says that all Corvettes are awful to drive. Is it true ? How do they compare to other 60's classics ? Any owners on here ?
I'm a serial Jag owner and an XK120 or similar is very tempting but I'm also drawn to moving out of my comfort zone and getting something completely different. An Allard K2 is something I'm long fancied but they're not that easy to find.
I saw an earl Corvette (1960) at a show recently and it got me thinking.... are they a useable classic and would I enjoy owning one ?
Thing is I've never driven one and urban legend says that all Corvettes are awful to drive. Is it true ? How do they compare to other 60's classics ? Any owners on here ?
Hi. I have a 68 C3 (big block), a 1970 C3 (small block) and a 64 E-type. The later (C3) corvettes are by comparison to the "E" brutish, steering (recirculating ball!) and handling is not as nice (very harsh ride) but the grip is excellent (better than the E) and the straight line performance is brilliant. Parts are completely available but take forever from the states (Ecklers etc slower delivery times than SNG Barratt and the like who are on your doorstep). Noise is wonderful.
If its general parts you can go to rockauto.com, you buy in £££, they pre-pay duty etc and you get your parts in a few days.
ailing that there are a number of guys who bring in container loads of parts - you get the parts sent to them in the US, they ship via container and then you pick up from them in the UK. Good for large objects and if you aren't in a rush for the bits.
There are UK suppliers of bits too of course.
ailing that there are a number of guys who bring in container loads of parts - you get the parts sent to them in the US, they ship via container and then you pick up from them in the UK. Good for large objects and if you aren't in a rush for the bits.
There are UK suppliers of bits too of course.
Crafty_ said:
If its general parts you can go to rockauto.com, you buy in £££, they pre-pay duty etc and you get your parts in a few days.
ailing that there are a number of guys who bring in container loads of parts - you get the parts sent to them in the US, they ship via container and then you pick up from them in the UK. Good for large objects and if you aren't in a rush for the bits.
There are UK suppliers of bits too of course.
Crafty is right, you can get containers in etc and there are limited parts supplies here, but if you are used to the speed with which E-type parts can be obtained in the UK, you will be disappointed generally with how quickly you can get hold of the part thats holding you up putting it back together. THere are a good bunch of people who know all about the cars. Scott at Corvette Kingdom is helpful and has a lot of parts (certainly for later cars) sitting on the shelf.ailing that there are a number of guys who bring in container loads of parts - you get the parts sent to them in the US, they ship via container and then you pick up from them in the UK. Good for large objects and if you aren't in a rush for the bits.
There are UK suppliers of bits too of course.
Most engine/clutch/gearbox parts are generic GM and easily sourced in the UK from usual Yank suppliers - suspension is more 'specialised' but still available in the UK - all other stuff like interior is available on-line from USA specialists albeit at a price (not as bad as one might think) - body panels will be very prohibitive cost wise - especially shipping. If its 'your thing' all engines are eminently tunable and as James intimates will leave most other cars for dead in a straight line - big blocks even as standard are 'electrifying' acceleration wise yet will plod around town in top gear at 15mph. My own 489 cu in manual is as quick from 70 to 130 mph as most cars 50 to 70. Brutal but 'involved' is probably the best driving description for BB cars.
Further to what James and Ross are saying, handling can also be easily improved with after market parts, 2 items in particular, Steeroids rack & pinion steering rack and Smart Struts on the rear suspension make a huge difference. With my 70 I have also added a laminated rear spring and gas adjustable shocks on the rear, semi coil over double adjustable shocks, alloy upper A arms(wishbones) and strut brace to the front suspension. These with 18" wheels and P Zero tyres have made transformed the handling and will now happily keep pace with spirited driving of modern sports cars. All these items are bolt on so the car can be easily returned to 'stock'. My move to 18" wheels was purely because I was unhappy with the tyre availability for the stock 15" wheels, but that's just a personal thing.
Engines are eminently tuneable with 500hp easily achievable from a small block and various gearboxes are available to allow more relaxed motorway cruising.
When buying watch out for rust in the chassis and 'bird cage' (the steel frame around the cockpit) with fibreglass bodies they generally look pretty good but beauty is only skin deep, several pounds of cataloy and months of work went into the front of mine to get it back. Post 72 cars suffer from emission restrictions and produce significantly less hp as standard. Other than that they are great fun, LHD is not a big problem once you are used to it and of course is a big asset when continental touring.
Graeme
Engines are eminently tuneable with 500hp easily achievable from a small block and various gearboxes are available to allow more relaxed motorway cruising.
When buying watch out for rust in the chassis and 'bird cage' (the steel frame around the cockpit) with fibreglass bodies they generally look pretty good but beauty is only skin deep, several pounds of cataloy and months of work went into the front of mine to get it back. Post 72 cars suffer from emission restrictions and produce significantly less hp as standard. Other than that they are great fun, LHD is not a big problem once you are used to it and of course is a big asset when continental touring.
Graeme
VetteG said:
Further to what James and Ross are saying, handling can also be easily improved with after market parts, 2 items in particular, Steeroids rack & pinion steering rack and Smart Struts on the rear suspension make a huge difference. With my 70 I have also added a laminated rear spring and gas adjustable shocks on the rear, semi coil over double adjustable shocks, alloy upper A arms(wishbones) and strut brace to the front suspension. These with 18" wheels and P Zero tyres have made transformed the handling and will now happily keep pace with spirited driving of modern sports cars. All these items are bolt on so the car can be easily returned to 'stock'. My move to 18" wheels was purely because I was unhappy with the tyre availability for the stock 15" wheels, but that's just a personal thing.
Engines are eminently tuneable with 500hp easily achievable from a small block and various gearboxes are available to allow more relaxed motorway cruising.
When buying watch out for rust in the chassis and 'bird cage' (the steel frame around the cockpit) with fibreglass bodies they generally look pretty good but beauty is only skin deep, several pounds of cataloy and months of work went into the front of mine to get it back. Post 72 cars suffer from emission restrictions and produce significantly less hp as standard. Other than that they are great fun, LHD is not a big problem once you are used to it and of course is a big asset when continental touring.
Graeme
What he said. Especially since Pirelli have discontinued the p4000, high speed rated tyres for 15" rims are difficult to procure. Overall though, the cars are extremely rewarding.Engines are eminently tuneable with 500hp easily achievable from a small block and various gearboxes are available to allow more relaxed motorway cruising.
When buying watch out for rust in the chassis and 'bird cage' (the steel frame around the cockpit) with fibreglass bodies they generally look pretty good but beauty is only skin deep, several pounds of cataloy and months of work went into the front of mine to get it back. Post 72 cars suffer from emission restrictions and produce significantly less hp as standard. Other than that they are great fun, LHD is not a big problem once you are used to it and of course is a big asset when continental touring.
Graeme
Edited by 427James on Monday 15th July 15:15
mph said:
Thing is I've never driven one and urban legend says that all Corvettes are awful to drive. Is it true ? How do they compare to other 60's classics ? Any owners on here ?
I see from your profile your based in the North East, if you fancy a trip to Edinburgh you can try my 70. PM me if your interested.Graeme
VetteG said:
With my 70 I have also added a laminated rear spring and gas adjustable shocks on the rear, semi coil over double adjustable shocks, alloy upper A arms(wishbones) and strut brace to the front suspension. Graeme
Sorry to chime in, but are you able to explain what laminated leaf springs do? I have a 68 Mustang which needs to have the rear leafs changed/bent to get it level after sitting around for 20 years and have never heard of this before. dmulally said:
Sorry to chime in, but are you able to explain what laminated leaf springs do? I have a 68 Mustang which needs to have the rear leafs changed/bent to get it level after sitting around for 20 years and have never heard of this before.
The Corvette has a single transverse leaf spring an aftermarket composite spring is available rather than the steel original. Aside from the 40lbs reduced weight they are slightly stiffer and work better with gas filled shocks. Not sure they are available for other makes and I don't know why, sorry.Graeme
VetteG said:
dmulally said:
Sorry to chime in, but are you able to explain what laminated leaf springs do? I have a 68 Mustang which needs to have the rear leafs changed/bent to get it level after sitting around for 20 years and have never heard of this before.
The Corvette has a single transverse leaf spring an aftermarket composite spring is available rather than the steel original. Aside from the 40lbs reduced weight they are slightly stiffer and work better with gas filled shocks. Not sure they are available for other makes and I don't know why, sorry.Graeme
VetteG said:
dmulally said:
Sorry to chime in, but are you able to explain what laminated leaf springs do? I have a 68 Mustang which needs to have the rear leafs changed/bent to get it level after sitting around for 20 years and have never heard of this before.
The Corvette has a single transverse leaf spring an aftermarket composite spring is available rather than the steel original. Aside from the 40lbs reduced weight they are slightly stiffer and work better with gas filled shocks. Not sure they are available for other makes and I don't know why, sorry.Graeme
VetteG said:
dmulally said:
Sorry to chime in, but are you able to explain what laminated leaf springs do? I have a 68 Mustang which needs to have the rear leafs changed/bent to get it level after sitting around for 20 years and have never heard of this before.
The Corvette has a single transverse leaf spring an aftermarket composite spring is available rather than the steel original. Aside from the 40lbs reduced weight they are slightly stiffer and work better with gas filled shocks. Not sure they are available for other makes and I don't know why, sorry.Graeme
I have plenty of seat time in a '65 C3, 327/350 and would echo what the others have said above. The biggest difference compared to most classics is the sheer acceleration. The aforementioned C3 leaves my DB4 wondering where, and probably when, the race started. They are fast, even by modern standards. The fact that the rest of the package, in standard trim, doesn't quite keep up makes the acceleration all the more visceral and involving.
Claremont currently have this for sale http://claremont.corvette.co.uk/?p=1810 which is my dream spec. It is just perfect in my eyes. They also have a lovely '60 too.
One point about parts - they don't really go wrong. In 7 years, the only thing I have had to change on the C3 is the distributor cap.
It's a very different proposition to an E type, but I can't see you being disappointed.
Claremont currently have this for sale http://claremont.corvette.co.uk/?p=1810 which is my dream spec. It is just perfect in my eyes. They also have a lovely '60 too.
One point about parts - they don't really go wrong. In 7 years, the only thing I have had to change on the C3 is the distributor cap.
It's a very different proposition to an E type, but I can't see you being disappointed.
roscobbc said:
American cars with live axles and multi-leaf rear 'cart' type suspension will often tend to have issues, generally with the higher powered models where one side may sag from the constant torque input. Rear ends of the earlier Vettes are no different i.e the standard relatively soft 9 leaf transverse steel spring can still sag to one side with higher powered or poorly maintained cars. The 7 leaf optional 'stiffer' 'Slalom' spring is much less affected - Graeme has a aftermarket single leaf glass fibre spring and the essential 'matched' shockers which were ultimately standardised on much later cars.
Here is something related to leaf spring rear ends in a V8 in regards to pinion angle. When I build my racing cars I spend so much time getting the angle on the diff face to be perfect. Then I watch things like this...https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JsdT57d4w20
WTFWT said:
I have plenty of seat time in a '65 C3, 327/350 and would echo what the others have said above.
Didn't the C3 start off from 1968?I am an absolute sucker for early C3 cars. Bumped into this lovely 327:



Ouch what a beauty . . . at a price though
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