Frogeye Sprite
Discussion
Hi all,
Im looking at getting a MK1 Sprite as a fun little car for weekends, but I dont know a massive amount about them.
I know they are basically the same as a midget. Some seem to have centre lock wheels and some don't ? Some are all steel and others seem to be part fibreglass ?
Is there a good website or book I can get hold of with all the relevant information ?
Are there many other owners on here ?
Cheers
Im looking at getting a MK1 Sprite as a fun little car for weekends, but I dont know a massive amount about them.
I know they are basically the same as a midget. Some seem to have centre lock wheels and some don't ? Some are all steel and others seem to be part fibreglass ?
Is there a good website or book I can get hold of with all the relevant information ?
Are there many other owners on here ?
Cheers
Originally they would have been all steel. Because of the inevitable rust a lot of the survivors have had their bonnets replaced with fibreglass units.
Originally steel wheels, though I expect wires would have been an option.
Might be an idea to have a look through some specialists' websites and price lists to get an idea of what the bits you will need from time to time cost.
Originally steel wheels, though I expect wires would have been an option.
Might be an idea to have a look through some specialists' websites and price lists to get an idea of what the bits you will need from time to time cost.
LordBretSinclair said:
Contact these guys http://midgetandspriteclub.com/
Garry is often on here toothere's loads of info on the car available in books, videos and t'web (with usual variable reliability)
I recommend you get a copy of this book as a good idea, reasonable priced plus clear photos and loads of information - Original Sprite & Midget The Restorer’s Guide by Terry Horler –
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/1906133336
Terry was a founder and still a member of MASC
bear in mind the 948cc engine and quarter elliptical rear springs so not very quick and different to modern car handling
ETA: Russell is also a Sprite owner on here (but didn't drive the car enough until recently, hopefully he's still putting that right)
a (hopefully) good quality Frogeye will be noticeable by its higher price
Edited by nta16 on Monday 5th August 17:22
I'm restoring one at the moment. I've had a midget in the past and it was one of the most fun to drive cars I've ever owned.
Loads of info out there, but always buy on body condition. Mechanicals are cheap and simple. Body is expensive to fix. Look everywhere for rust, but particularly around where the 1/4 elliptically join the body.
Have a look at this site. Expensive but has some nice examples.
http://www.mgmidgets.com/stock_midgets.php
Good luck!
Loads of info out there, but always buy on body condition. Mechanicals are cheap and simple. Body is expensive to fix. Look everywhere for rust, but particularly around where the 1/4 elliptically join the body.
Have a look at this site. Expensive but has some nice examples.
http://www.mgmidgets.com/stock_midgets.php
Good luck!
I can only echo some of the comments here, the car handles differently than most moderns, its very direct, and I find plenty fast enough around town, its a little lacking in outright speed, but it was never meant to be dragster...
Some have fibreglass bonnets, but this is usually because the metal one costs quite a bit to replace, bodywork repairs are not cheap if the spring hangers boxes are gone, so try to buy the best one you can:
mine took 2yrs to go from this:
to this:
this is 7 years on from the restoration, and still looks pretty good.
Some have fibreglass bonnets, but this is usually because the metal one costs quite a bit to replace, bodywork repairs are not cheap if the spring hangers boxes are gone, so try to buy the best one you can:
mine took 2yrs to go from this:
to this:
this is 7 years on from the restoration, and still looks pretty good.
I bought mine for £175, in pieces, in 1984, restored it, drove it, sold it in early 2000s.
I'd second getting a copy of the Terry Horler book, despite selling the car I've kept the book for reference.
As said above, real Frogs are all steel, some have glass panels due to rust, some are Spridgets with glass front and back so that they look like a Frog, check chassis numbers, should be AN5 on a Frog, HAN on a Square Sprite, GAN on a Midget.
There are also Isle of Wight Frogeyes which are a development of the original, endorsed by Geoff Healey, and various kit type look alikes.
Any of the variations can be considered legit as long as you don't pay real price for a replica/fake/copy/kit of some sort.
There was only a very limited colour range, if you want originality make sure it's one of the genuine ones, there a a lot of bright red ones about, personally I don't think they look right, and some pale yellow that was used on late Spridgets - should be bright yellow (Primrose, YL4 not YL12)
Also a real car should be 948CC with engine number 9CUH... , many will have a 1098 or 1275 dropped in, this is the easiest way to get more power. Whether this matters or not is up to you, again depends on price.
Lots have later ribbed case gearboxes, smooth case are correct but weaker, now difficult to rebuild.
Have a look here and click on Sprite model details.
and photos of Frogs
Being PH some people will say that they are woefully underpowered and you must put an MX5 engine in, my view is if you want performance, buy a modern! Even with only the 42.5 bhp of the 948 engine they don't go too badly, you'll still be held up in a queue sometimes by a modern, acceleration is bearable, cruising at 50 is nice, 60 is tolerable, 70 hard work and 80 ear jangling and filling rattling, but £ for £ the smile factor beats most things.
You can often drive flat out and still be inside the speed limit, which you can't do with a modern and the handling is very good.
John
I'd second getting a copy of the Terry Horler book, despite selling the car I've kept the book for reference.
As said above, real Frogs are all steel, some have glass panels due to rust, some are Spridgets with glass front and back so that they look like a Frog, check chassis numbers, should be AN5 on a Frog, HAN on a Square Sprite, GAN on a Midget.
There are also Isle of Wight Frogeyes which are a development of the original, endorsed by Geoff Healey, and various kit type look alikes.
Any of the variations can be considered legit as long as you don't pay real price for a replica/fake/copy/kit of some sort.
There was only a very limited colour range, if you want originality make sure it's one of the genuine ones, there a a lot of bright red ones about, personally I don't think they look right, and some pale yellow that was used on late Spridgets - should be bright yellow (Primrose, YL4 not YL12)
Also a real car should be 948CC with engine number 9CUH... , many will have a 1098 or 1275 dropped in, this is the easiest way to get more power. Whether this matters or not is up to you, again depends on price.
Lots have later ribbed case gearboxes, smooth case are correct but weaker, now difficult to rebuild.
Have a look here and click on Sprite model details.
and photos of Frogs
Being PH some people will say that they are woefully underpowered and you must put an MX5 engine in, my view is if you want performance, buy a modern! Even with only the 42.5 bhp of the 948 engine they don't go too badly, you'll still be held up in a queue sometimes by a modern, acceleration is bearable, cruising at 50 is nice, 60 is tolerable, 70 hard work and 80 ear jangling and filling rattling, but £ for £ the smile factor beats most things.
You can often drive flat out and still be inside the speed limit, which you can't do with a modern and the handling is very good.
John
You can of course get a Frogeye lookalike front and back on a newer MG Midget
http://www.hallsgarage.co.uk/TifosiRana.pdf
http://www.hallsgarage.co.uk/TifosiRana.pdf
Found a problem with restoring this model , the last one I completed there was a big hang -up locating 1/4 ellipic rear springs ,when they finally arrived ,the ride height appeared all wrong. I did not get to find out if they settled with a little road use because the owner left the area and we lost contact Has anyone else experienced this when fitting new replacement springs ? 
This should give an indication of the work involved in replacing a sill panel, repairs to door shut panel and rear wheel arch closer section . Don,t forget the door apeture alignement, if the body sags the opening will close up and destroy the panel-gaps and it is too late once the weldings finished, keep checking !the door fit. 
rolymo said:
Found a problem with restoring this model , the last one I completed there was a big hang -up locating 1/4 ellipic rear springs ,when they finally arrived ,the ride height appeared all wrong. I did not get to find out if they settled with a little road use because the owner left the area and we lost contact Has anyone else experienced this when fitting new replacement springs ?
AFAIK 1/4 elliptics are easily available in the UK, they do tend to be a bit high at first, but settle.If they don't settle enough you can take a leaf out or put a wedge to tilt them up a bit.
Once the messy bodywork is done the interesting part begins ,playing with the mechanical gubbins, engine rebuilds and up-grades, transmission etc :- I decided to fit a Datsun gearbox conversion mainly because it is virtually impossible to find an original smooth case gearbox that retains a vestage of useability with regard to the straight cut/ none synchro bottom gear on BMC boxes.See how neatly the gearlever lines up in it's location and driving is vastly improved 
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