Sandblasting. What do I need to strip a classic?
Discussion
Evening all.
I'm about to buy my first project, a BMW 1602. It's just too cheap to pass up but needs a fair bit of work.
I want to do as much as I can, so stripping, welding and getting ready for paint. I'll be honest though, I'm starting from scratch with regards to the sandblasting. Most of the welding won't be a problem
So what do I need to get going? I'm worried the compressor I buy won't be man enough to sustain enough pressure constantly to strip a car to bare metal, rust and all!
Anyone clued up on what I need to get started? Any recommendations on where to go to get what I need?
Cheers in advance
I'm about to buy my first project, a BMW 1602. It's just too cheap to pass up but needs a fair bit of work.
I want to do as much as I can, so stripping, welding and getting ready for paint. I'll be honest though, I'm starting from scratch with regards to the sandblasting. Most of the welding won't be a problem
So what do I need to get going? I'm worried the compressor I buy won't be man enough to sustain enough pressure constantly to strip a car to bare metal, rust and all!
Anyone clued up on what I need to get started? Any recommendations on where to go to get what I need?
Cheers in advance
I would think you'd need a f
k off HUGE compressor as well as a garage that's completely sealed and doesn't have anything else in it - sand gets absolutely everywhere.
To put it another way, I'm not as all sure that it's practical to do it yourself. Either take it some where to be done, maybe soda blasting is preferable, or if that's too expensive and you have the time, buy some rubber gloves a scraper and a man size tin of paint stripper!
k off HUGE compressor as well as a garage that's completely sealed and doesn't have anything else in it - sand gets absolutely everywhere.To put it another way, I'm not as all sure that it's practical to do it yourself. Either take it some where to be done, maybe soda blasting is preferable, or if that's too expensive and you have the time, buy some rubber gloves a scraper and a man size tin of paint stripper!
It's generally now known as Media Blasting (using sand is problematic), but you won't need a TV and a shotgun. 
Apparently it's fairly easy to distort panels if you aren't careful.
IMHO unless you really want to fork out for all the kit, it's probably easier and cheaper to leave it to the professionals.
Apparently it's fairly easy to distort panels if you aren't careful.
IMHO unless you really want to fork out for all the kit, it's probably easier and cheaper to leave it to the professionals.
Edited by Roy C on Thursday 17th October 08:39
something like this sounds very good>
http://www.surfaceprocessing.co.uk/for-cars.html#s...
http://www.surfaceprocessing.co.uk/for-cars.html#s...
said:
The SPL Chemical Immersion Cleaning process can effectively remove the paint, grease, oil, underseal, filler, anti-flutter, adhesives and the majority of all rust from Panels, Parts and complete body shells. It has become widely accepted as a safe and vastly improved alternative to all types of media blasting methods. Media blasting is regularly associated with irreversible damage to the surface and structure of panels and parts and offers no solution to cleaning areas that cannot be reached with the blasting nozzle. One of the major drawbacks with any type of blasting is the problem of media and debris removal from the seams and box sections of the project leading to poor paint finish, moisture entrapment and ongoing issues with paint adhesion. Modern, more “gentle” blasting medias are generally considered to be unreliable for the removal of rust. With the SPL system rust is dissolved out on contact and an advanced corrosion protection in the form of electrophoretic coating can be applied to help prevent its return. Electrophoretic coating is again applied by immersion and is the same as that applied to 96% of the world new motor vehicle bodies and is widely regarded as the most effective anti-corrosion coating available due to its ability to coat the internal aspects of complex metal structures.
GTRene said:
something like this sounds very good>
http://www.surfaceprocessing.co.uk/for-cars.html#s...
What is the approximate cost for this?http://www.surfaceprocessing.co.uk/for-cars.html#s...
said:
The SPL Chemical Immersion Cleaning process can effectively remove the paint, grease, oil, underseal, filler, anti-flutter, adhesives and the majority of all rust from Panels, Parts and complete body shells. It has become widely accepted as a safe and vastly improved alternative to all types of media blasting methods. Media blasting is regularly associated with irreversible damage to the surface and structure of panels and parts and offers no solution to cleaning areas that cannot be reached with the blasting nozzle. One of the major drawbacks with any type of blasting is the problem of media and debris removal from the seams and box sections of the project leading to poor paint finish, moisture entrapment and ongoing issues with paint adhesion. Modern, more “gentle” blasting medias are generally considered to be unreliable for the removal of rust. With the SPL system rust is dissolved out on contact and an advanced corrosion protection in the form of electrophoretic coating can be applied to help prevent its return. Electrophoretic coating is again applied by immersion and is the same as that applied to 96% of the world new motor vehicle bodies and is widely regarded as the most effective anti-corrosion coating available due to its ability to coat the internal aspects of complex metal structures.
Thanks for the info guys
I haven't actually picked the car up yet, but im pretty sure it isn't stolen. Got a link to the stolen one mate?
I'd actually favour the paint stripper route as it's pretty straight forward, quiet and you can control the mess made.
Has anyone had the SPL process done themselves or know anyone who has? I'd like to know how much this is too!
Cheers
I haven't actually picked the car up yet, but im pretty sure it isn't stolen. Got a link to the stolen one mate?
I'd actually favour the paint stripper route as it's pretty straight forward, quiet and you can control the mess made.
Has anyone had the SPL process done themselves or know anyone who has? I'd like to know how much this is too!
Cheers
I've used Surface Processing for motorcycle parts. I would recommend having the protective coating done after the dipping as the trouble with acid dipping is that it strips all the nooks and crannies which can be difficult to protect afterwards. I was happy with both the service and the result, they were quite quick too.
When I went to drop the bits off they had some lovely cars in a stripped condition; Mk 1 Escort, Honda S800 IIRC.
When I went to drop the bits off they had some lovely cars in a stripped condition; Mk 1 Escort, Honda S800 IIRC.
You should look into vapor blasting. Instead of using glass bead substrate or similar, you use bicarbonate of soda. Don't buy it from Sealey etc, look on ebay for bulk bicarbs and there are a couple of sellers who will do a 25KG bag for £25.. pound a kilo!
Bicarbs is bio degradable, does not distort the body work and is even safe on glass and chrome but you need to take care with aluminium. You can run it from a compressor that delivers 7cfm and you rarely need more than 60psi. I've been blasting car bits at work with it and it is a great tool. Also the bicarbs leaves a residue which inhibits rust and will protect the bare metal for upto 3 months although it is obviously better to get it primed asap.
Bicarbs is bio degradable, does not distort the body work and is even safe on glass and chrome but you need to take care with aluminium. You can run it from a compressor that delivers 7cfm and you rarely need more than 60psi. I've been blasting car bits at work with it and it is a great tool. Also the bicarbs leaves a residue which inhibits rust and will protect the bare metal for upto 3 months although it is obviously better to get it primed asap.
Blasting your own shell is a non-starter I feel. If you don't have any equipment or knowledge for this one off job, pay someone to do it. http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/sandblasting.htm
I have read several reports of car shells being treated at Surface Processing and it has generally been favourable, although not perfect. Some have not been prepped correctly with holes being drilled for the process to fill/drain certain areas of a car body shell leading to problems, plus a couple of reports of damage being done to the shell by poor handling leading to dents in a newly corrected shell.
The cost can vary on what you want done. If you just want it stripped and nothing else, or if you want the car stripped and then taken away by yourself to repair the rust and damage exposed and then taken back and lightly stripped again and then the dip e-coat applied. Or you could just have it stripped and then e-coated all in one go.
Here's a link to an E30 M3 owners restoration thread in which his car was treated by SPL.
http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=1...
I have read several reports of car shells being treated at Surface Processing and it has generally been favourable, although not perfect. Some have not been prepped correctly with holes being drilled for the process to fill/drain certain areas of a car body shell leading to problems, plus a couple of reports of damage being done to the shell by poor handling leading to dents in a newly corrected shell.
The cost can vary on what you want done. If you just want it stripped and nothing else, or if you want the car stripped and then taken away by yourself to repair the rust and damage exposed and then taken back and lightly stripped again and then the dip e-coat applied. Or you could just have it stripped and then e-coated all in one go.
Here's a link to an E30 M3 owners restoration thread in which his car was treated by SPL.
http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=1...
If you want the shell just blasted clear of paint and rust before you're let loose with a welder, you're probably better off finding a bloke who say does it on a farm or something and so subsequently cheaper... There's a few about.
I stripped my fastback shell with wire brushes on an angle grinder with a home blasting kit for the nooks and crannies . Never again. Would pay the money next time. It's just TOO labour and time intensive, not to mention filthy, to do it the long way. Of course it IS cheaper though!
I stripped my fastback shell with wire brushes on an angle grinder with a home blasting kit for the nooks and crannies . Never again. Would pay the money next time. It's just TOO labour and time intensive, not to mention filthy, to do it the long way. Of course it IS cheaper though!
Thanks again for all your replies.
I should be picking the car up next weekend, but I pretty much know there's metal to be replaced. I'll look into a guy in a barn as a back up, but I'm thinking of hitting what I can with a grinder and wire wheel, to see what I'm in for.
I'll be looking into building a spit to makes things easier on my poor back!
What sort of money does a full shell cost to be blasted?
I should be picking the car up next weekend, but I pretty much know there's metal to be replaced. I'll look into a guy in a barn as a back up, but I'm thinking of hitting what I can with a grinder and wire wheel, to see what I'm in for.
I'll be looking into building a spit to makes things easier on my poor back!
What sort of money does a full shell cost to be blasted?
Apart from cost, other things that you need to be aware of with dipping are as follows -
Anywhere where you might get an air trap needs to have a pilot hole drilled (3mm) to stop air pockets.
Lead filling of repairs is not compatible with the e-coat process.
Once e coated there is a lot of scotching to be done for the paint to key in to.
All the seams will need to be sealed and the underseal needs to be reapplied. (I used 14 kgs in all)
Depending how bad your shell is, you could consider soda blasting as a viable alternative?
My e21 underwent blasting and was a lot cheaper than dipping. You can also just do the parts that really need it, whereas dipping is all or nothing.
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
Anywhere where you might get an air trap needs to have a pilot hole drilled (3mm) to stop air pockets.
Lead filling of repairs is not compatible with the e-coat process.
Once e coated there is a lot of scotching to be done for the paint to key in to.
All the seams will need to be sealed and the underseal needs to be reapplied. (I used 14 kgs in all)
Depending how bad your shell is, you could consider soda blasting as a viable alternative?
My e21 underwent blasting and was a lot cheaper than dipping. You can also just do the parts that really need it, whereas dipping is all or nothing.
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
Weaver said:
I had a Datsun 260z blasted and zinc phosphate primed by RetroPower in Hinkley for just under £750 (£500 for the blasting and £240 for priming). Thinner panels are blasted with finer media (crushed glass in this case).
Started with this...
Ended with this...
Aha... I was there last week talking to Nat about my Beetle ( sadly not the oval that they have there ). Started with this...
Ended with this...
I was massively impressed with their setup. Are they as good as they come across?
Nurburgsingh said:
Aha... I was there last week talking to Nat about my Beetle ( sadly not the oval that they have there ).
I was massively impressed with their setup. Are they as good as they come across?
They really are as good as they come across, they have some extremely talented and knowledgeable guys there. Take a look at the restoration page for my 260Z and check out the quality of the custom metal work; everything they do is to the same standard. I was massively impressed with their setup. Are they as good as they come across?
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