Which alarm/immobiliser for a classic?
Discussion
Pete Eroleum said:
Remove the rotor arm and put it in your pocket?
This is the kind of approach I would favour. A pro will take it regardless but an amatuer kiddy won't even know what to look for.The only other viable alternative for me is a tracker. Only two wires so does not interfere with the vehicles wiring as is easy to hide. If you can't scare them away at least you can find out where it is.
I'd go with the rotor arm option - Lucas electrics + likelihood of water ingress make anything like that a nightmare. I had (at considerable expense) an immobiliser fitted to an old Triumph to reduce my insurance premiums when I was 18 and it caused me no end of grief. It would have stopped somebody from stealing it, but by the same token it stopped me from starting the bloody thing on a regular basis. Absolute PITA.
Alternatively, get an ignition or fuel pump cut out switch and fit that under the dash if you don't want to open the bonnet every time you park up!
Alternatively, get an ignition or fuel pump cut out switch and fit that under the dash if you don't want to open the bonnet every time you park up!
benjj said:
Full electric cutoff switch hidden and unmarked is the way I would go. Also handy for when it bursts into flames 
Had a fuel cutout in the E-type for 25 years. Not used it in 24 though 
Battery cutouts are more useful especially when you winter the car.
Edited by lowdrag on Monday 21st October 09:28
A full electrical cutoff can be very handy when combined with a battery conditioner on a car that doesn't get daily use. The only downside is that it's difficult to pinpoint anything drawing power when it shouldn't be.
I did this on the DS (after replacing the battery with a decent Bosch Silver S4) and it was great jumping into the car after 2 months knowing it would start right up.
Also a hidden and unmarked switch is quite a challenge for a potential thief.
I did this on the DS (after replacing the battery with a decent Bosch Silver S4) and it was great jumping into the car after 2 months knowing it would start right up.
Also a hidden and unmarked switch is quite a challenge for a potential thief.
johnfm said:
I think I will fit a battery cut out switch and be doen with it. £10 and an hour or two swearing in the garage.
After buggering up the twin 6V in my B I fitted a new 12V battery and a cutoff. Only problem with it is when I get to work I leave the cut off thing in my desk and often forget it when it comes to home time.Explaining to people that you've got to go back as you've left your knob behind causes raised eyebrows!
johnfm said:
To get to the rotor arm on a twink is a major pain - virtually inaccessible with the carbs in situ.
That was just an example. You could choose the king-lead, the fuel pump fuse, a coil feed wire, whatever. Anythingthat imobilises it basically.
Makes it difficult and irritating to steal, short of dragging it into the back of a lorry. Theives don't like
spending ages trying to figure out why it wont go. Too much bother. Easier to pinch something else.
Much safer than a known brand alarm/immobiliser, as they have no idea how long it will take to find what you've done to it.
OP, you're suggestion of a battery cut off is a good one. The closer to the battery the better as long as it's readily accessible. That way you don't have to splice into too many wires. Toad alarm systems seem pretty robust assuming you can still get them (I've used one for a while with few problems) if you do go down that route.
Going off thread a little, on the subject of wiring (and egg sucking) the biggest problem I've found with lotus wiring is the use of bullet connectors that corrode over time and cause dodgy connections - especially with the lighting and horn circuits as these tend to run through the cooler/wetter parts of the body. There are various solutions to this but covering the freshly cleaned/soldered and insulated connections with the self amalgamating tape used for fixing hoses seems to work well in keeping the damp out. It also works well on the joints in the vacuum circuit that holds the headlights up/down.
Going off thread a little, on the subject of wiring (and egg sucking) the biggest problem I've found with lotus wiring is the use of bullet connectors that corrode over time and cause dodgy connections - especially with the lighting and horn circuits as these tend to run through the cooler/wetter parts of the body. There are various solutions to this but covering the freshly cleaned/soldered and insulated connections with the self amalgamating tape used for fixing hoses seems to work well in keeping the damp out. It also works well on the joints in the vacuum circuit that holds the headlights up/down.
Cheers Craig.
Re: battery cut off, the most conventient place for fitting would be in the boot - plenty of space to work and, of course, next to the battery. BUT, I don't really want to be going into the boot every time I drive it.
I will have a look at where the battery supply comes through the bulkhead and onto the starter solenoid. I may be able to fit a cut off under the dash (near the hood latch mechanism etc).
Re: battery cut off, the most conventient place for fitting would be in the boot - plenty of space to work and, of course, next to the battery. BUT, I don't really want to be going into the boot every time I drive it.
I will have a look at where the battery supply comes through the bulkhead and onto the starter solenoid. I may be able to fit a cut off under the dash (near the hood latch mechanism etc).
No probs, I'd had similar thoughts about mine. If I remember correctly, the feed from the battery runs past the petrol tank and down along the inside of the sill under the carpet on the driver's side of the car before going up under the dash and through the bulkhead to the solenoid. You may be able to put something in the outer side of the footwell...? Alternatively you could put a switch behind the drivers seat in the rear passengers footwell (such as it is).
A while ago I was removing my rotor arm to leave the car on the street overnight, but when I removed the distributor cap I heard a tingle. The carbon bush and spring had got loose and fallen somewhere either into the engine bay or onto the street.
Very effective immobilisation, that.
The only spare cap I had was already missing its carbon bush - it had arrived from the supplier without one.
Very effective immobilisation, that.
The only spare cap I had was already missing its carbon bush - it had arrived from the supplier without one
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