Best Rust Treatment?
Author
Discussion

wolf1

Original Poster:

3,097 posts

279 months

Friday 15th November 2013
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Thought i'd be better off asking in here the land of the unified thread etc. I have a rather scabby van that's in need of a blow over to keep it presentable for a couple of years. I won't be cutting out the rough sections just grinding off the worst of it and the treating with something to hold the march of decay back for a while, then a quick skim of bog and paint.

So the million pound question is what's the recomended rust treatment solution these days?

wolf1

Original Poster:

3,097 posts

279 months

Friday 15th November 2013
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Thank you to whichever mod added the title. Bloody iphones !

TurboBlue

686 posts

192 months

Saturday 16th November 2013
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Bilt Hamber Hydrate 80

Escort3500

13,453 posts

174 months

Saturday 16th November 2013
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TurboBlue said:
Bilt Hamber Hydrate 80
+1. Much more effective than Kurust and other products you get from Halfrauds. I think it was rated best in Practical Classics too.

Rapid rental

477 posts

251 months

Saturday 16th November 2013
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Bilt Hamber, no question, just look at their website for the test results.

wolf1

Original Poster:

3,097 posts

279 months

Saturday 16th November 2013
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Sounds pretty unanimous, I shall order some, Thanks guys.

droopsnoot

14,624 posts

271 months

Sunday 17th November 2013
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Keep in mind a lot of these products are nothing more than re-packaged acids of various kinds. I've used citric acid (available in powder form from eBay for not much money) and that works very well to soak items in, and looks (and acts) very similar to "Deox-C" to the extent that I wonder if that's what the 'C' means. I'm also now using phosphoric acid (in the form of a hydroponics product called 'ph Down', also a major component in milkstone remover) with good results. I'm painting the phospohoric on the bodywork and, I'm no chemist, but it reacts in *exactly* the same way that my tin of Jenolite reacts when painted onto rusty steel - rust goes black, steel goes clean. But keep applying and scraping at the rust, and it can go completely.

After talking to one of the 'dip' companies at the NEC yesterday, I've had another go with it today as I was a bit disappointed, and after a bit of agitation and re-application, it's doing a very good job at removing the rust and leaving clean, if pitted, steel. That particular company use phosphoric, SPL use hydrochloric according to their web site. Obviously, take precautions when trying these things out, but then it'll say that on your tub of Kurust or whatever.

Captain Cadillac

2,974 posts

216 months

Sunday 17th November 2013
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POR-15.