Body restoration process
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Discussion

DeanR32

Original Poster:

1,840 posts

212 months

Wednesday 22nd January 2014
quotequote all
Evening all

I'm about to start my BMW 02 this weekend and I'm fairly confident I know what I'm doing repair wise, but im getting confused about when I should be using certain paints and when to use them. There just seems so many ways to do things it worries me I'll use the wrong stuff at the wrong time.

Is there a coating I can use from an aerosol that will cover the bare metal after I've repaired it, that can sit untouched for a while? I've been hearing that although epoxy primers are non pourous, they have to be removed before painting. Is there something that can be painted over/filled over?

I won't be prepping or painting the car but want to do all I can in that sense.

As I don't have the facilities, I'd like products that can be obtained in an aerosol and don't want it to kill me!

One thing I do want to do though is stone guard and seal the chassis and wheel arches etc. any opinions on what to use for this?

I will be doing a restoration thread as soon as I start. Won't be as good as some you read on here but should be good for a laugh at least!

Cheers

4v6

1,098 posts

155 months

Wednesday 22nd January 2014
quotequote all
DeanR32 said:
Evening all

I'm about to start my BMW 02 this weekend and I'm fairly confident I know what I'm doing repair wise, but im getting confused about when I should be using certain paints and when to use them. There just seems so many ways to do things it worries me I'll use the wrong stuff at the wrong time.

Is there a coating I can use from an aerosol that will cover the bare metal after I've repaired it, that can sit untouched for a while? I've been hearing that although epoxy primers are non pourous, they have to be removed before painting. Is there something that can be painted over/filled over?

I won't be prepping or painting the car but want to do all I can in that sense.

As I don't have the facilities, I'd like products that can be obtained in an aerosol and don't want it to kill me!

One thing I do want to do though is stone guard and seal the chassis and wheel arches etc. any opinions on what to use for this?

I will be doing a restoration thread as soon as I start. Won't be as good as some you read on here but should be good for a laugh at least!

Cheers
You could use Upol acid etch ( red aerosol from halfrauds) to afford some protection to the repaired areas, youll still need a mask that can filter the vapour though as it stinks and is a bit noxious, or spray it in a well ventilated area and then vacate it until its flashed off.

Epoxy primers are 2K, that is a paint and a catalyst/hardner, do not use this without the proper respirator, itll kill you!
Thered be no need to remove it before painting as its super tough and durable and priming bare steel is what its for.
Ive just spent the best part of a day trying to sand some off the shell of the quatt, bloody nightmare as its so well stuck on.

I used 3M bodygard on the sills and arches, product number is 08868 and comes in a couple of different colours but be aware youll also need an applicator gun and an air source for that product.


Edited by 4v6 on Wednesday 22 January 20:26

gforceg

3,525 posts

208 months

Wednesday 22nd January 2014
quotequote all
I can't offer any advice but I'm looking forward to the resto thread.

dpp

224 posts

168 months

Wednesday 22nd January 2014
quotequote all
I used Ferrozinc on the bare metal as it can be applied to a small or large area very easily, shiny metal can flash rust in a few days even in a nice dry garage. I then used Zinc 182 before finishing underneath with Schutz, the engine bay went to the painters and he sprayed 2K over the Zinc182 with no problems.

The rest of the external bodywork went in bare metal and I had no flash rusting problems here just under the car.

Don't forget to post some photos.

DeanR32

Original Poster:

1,840 posts

212 months

Thursday 23rd January 2014
quotequote all
Thanks for the replies lads

So acid etch is ok to paint over? I'll grab a few cans of it soon as I can.

4v6

1,098 posts

155 months

Thursday 23rd January 2014
quotequote all
DeanR32 said:
Thanks for the replies lads

So acid etch is ok to paint over? I'll grab a few cans of it soon as I can.
Yep absolutely fine.
Its acid content bites into the surface of the steel to give better adhesion than ordinary primers.
This stuff was the "eco" version of the old zinc chromate primers which were very good indeed but horribly toxic so they were phased out.
Get a few sheets of 600 or 800 grit wet and dry also to scuff the surface once its dried to promote adhesion between the primer and its top coats and you wont go far wrong....oh and a rubber sanding block for filler work.
Dont use your bare hand as itll introduce ripples. wink

DeanR32

Original Poster:

1,840 posts

212 months

Thursday 23rd January 2014
quotequote all
Nice one, cheers mate.

I'll grab some of that stuff (I'll look elsewhere though. Not bloody halfords!)

What type of set up have you got to apply the 3M stone chip you use? What sort of size compressor, what gun etc? I'll look into purchasing one if costs can stay reasonable enough

4v6

1,098 posts

155 months

Thursday 23rd January 2014
quotequote all
DeanR32 said:
Nice one, cheers mate.

I'll grab some of that stuff (I'll look elsewhere though. Not bloody halfords!)

What type of set up have you got to apply the 3M stone chip you use? What sort of size compressor, what gun etc? I'll look into purchasing one if costs can stay reasonable enough
No worries, glad to help.

The type of gun I use isnt this particular one but its similar, theyre widely available on ebay, machine mart etc at less than the cost on this site where Ive got a lot of my stuff from, just to give you an idea of what to look for:

http://www.spraygunsdirect.co.uk/product.php?tid=1...

My compressors an old Vee twin hydrovane manufactured piston type compressor powered by a 2.2kw single phase motor, gives about 8cfm free air delivery which will power the undercoating gun for a while but you'd need a 50 litre tank or preferably bigger up to about 250 litres to do large continuous areas or to spray a car with.
I bought a sata hvlp -high volume low pressure gun (paint spraying gun)and that needs 14cfm minimum air input to maintain 2.0bar at the tip so my compressors not really got the balls to run it on its own, I still need to sort an air reservoir to use it effectively.

Take a look at this kind of product also which might be of better use to you: http://www.spraygunsdirect.co.uk/product.php?tid=&...

Oh also if you decide to go crazy on putting a setup together to paint with dont use pcl 6mm air fittings usually known as shraeder type, use 8mm euro type couplings and air line to match as youll get less pressure drop between the compressor and the gun.

The usual health and safety stuff regarding painting/spraying/flames etc applies, hope that helps some.

Edited by 4v6 on Thursday 23 January 10:27

74merc

602 posts

221 months

Thursday 23rd January 2014
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Have a look on rust.co.uk.
They detail the process you should follow and the products to use.

DeanR32

Original Poster:

1,840 posts

212 months

Tuesday 25th February 2014
quotequote all
Hope you lot don't mind a little thread bump

I still haven't started my restoration as time has been a bit tight lately. Weathers been crap too!

I was just wondering about areas on my car you can't see. Inner arches, floorpans, wheel arches and underside etc.

From bare metal, what can I brush on as a good hardy coat to stop the rust ever coming back? The car is black so a product that does it all and is black in colour would be excellent.

Cheers again for all your guys help

texaxile

3,752 posts

179 months

Wednesday 26th February 2014
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bilt Hamber make some good products, Hydrate 80 I've been using recently is actually a paint in itself for surfaces needing protection, but "etchweld" might suit your purpose better.

Either way, do a google and have a look at their site. Stuff ordered before 15:00 gets usually arrives the next day. Brilliant products.

uk66fastback

18,334 posts

300 months

Thursday 27th February 2014
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Used some Bilt Hamber stuff in the sills of my 944 just lately, very good stuff.

Astacus

3,737 posts

263 months

Thursday 27th February 2014
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Yes, also a fan. Very helpful people. I would also recommend their Deox-C product for rusty bits. Soak overnight in a solution and hey presto, rust gone. I've also used the gel form for larger bits. Slap it on, wrap in cling film and wash off in the morning with a scouring pad. Usually needs a couple of treatments on very rusty stuff.

DeanR32

Original Poster:

1,840 posts

212 months

Thursday 27th February 2014
quotequote all
Cheers for the replies guys.

I've looked into their range and the hydrate 80 stuff looks good. I've read the product info etc, and it seems like it can be used in all the places I need (engine bay, inner wings, wheel arches, floorpans and underside etc) but what sort of quantity do you reckon I'd need to do all of these?

Cheers again

annodomini2

6,971 posts

280 months