Rust converter/inhibitor products.
Author
Discussion

j_s14a

Original Poster:

874 posts

207 months

Tuesday 23rd September 2014
quotequote all
I see a lot of products on the market which claim that you can spray them direct onto rust, and it converts it back to metal, and stops rust from forming again. Are these products any good? And can you recommend a particular brand?

I've got a car coming from Japan, which I'm going to have Wax oiled and undersealed, but I'm thinking of using one of these products to spray the suspension wishbones etc to keep them looking reasonably smart.

Cheers. smile

16VJay

236 posts

248 months

Tuesday 23rd September 2014
quotequote all
Don't use Waxoil for a start!

j_s14a

Original Poster:

874 posts

207 months

Tuesday 23rd September 2014
quotequote all
Why?

texaxile

3,752 posts

179 months

Tuesday 23rd September 2014
quotequote all
Bilt hamber products are all you need.

I've used hydrate 80 on my lancer turbo in a couple of areas which were repaired, and dynax for the cavities, with the clear dynax for the engine bay and front chassis areas.

Not cheap, but you certainly get what you pay for.

j_s14a

Original Poster:

874 posts

207 months

Tuesday 23rd September 2014
quotequote all
I'm not going to do the wax/underseal myself, I'm going to take it here: http://www.jrclassics.co.uk/procedure


226bhp

10,203 posts

157 months

85Carrera

3,503 posts

266 months

Wednesday 24th September 2014
quotequote all
226bhp said:
Seems to get a good enough review there

woodytype S

691 posts

266 months

Wednesday 24th September 2014
quotequote all
I have had 4 Jap imports.Dont piss about with that stuff just spray underside with old engine oil.A garage mate has done mine at the start of winter for £10.That reminds me my Teg DC5 is due to have its bottom sprayed.ps. the Prelude Type S I had for 5 years was as good as new when it moved on.

V8 Fettler

7,019 posts

161 months

Wednesday 24th September 2014
quotequote all
Isn't old engine oil supposed to be acidic?

Scotty2

1,469 posts

295 months

Wednesday 24th September 2014
quotequote all
Old engine oil is acidic but still provides a water repellant surface. It doesn't last long.

+1 for Bilt Hamber products. I used Hydrate 80 to prepare rusty metal on an offshore platform, and a year later the paint was still on it and still looking good.

I used the same stuff while repairing wheel arches and bits on my car and the Bodyshop guy said it was the best stuff he'd been introduced to after 30 years in the trade. He also used the Dynax underbody wax and sang its praises.

85Carrera

3,503 posts

266 months

Wednesday 24th September 2014
quotequote all
woodytype S said:
Dont piss about with that stuff just spray underside with old engine oil.
One of the TR4 buying guides I read said something along the lines of don't worry about the front of the chassis as oil leaks will protect it from corrosion smile