Triumph GT 6 MK3 2500 TC
Discussion
Background for this - May have the opportunity to buy said car. Lovely looking vehicle, unsure however on the model. A 2500 TC GT 6. After some research I have yet to find this model. Even in dvla car checker it is logged down as a 2000. Any thoughts on the matter?
The car appears to have less than 7k miles on it but has been sitting for 3 years. What areas of interest are of the highest priority? Any further common problems people are aware of? Even warnings into major costs which may come into my path later on?
Further extensive research will be conducted, had this playing on my mind whilst at work and was hoping for a little bit more in depth and experienced knowledge.
Adam
The car appears to have less than 7k miles on it but has been sitting for 3 years. What areas of interest are of the highest priority? Any further common problems people are aware of? Even warnings into major costs which may come into my path later on?
Further extensive research will be conducted, had this playing on my mind whilst at work and was hoping for a little bit more in depth and experienced knowledge.
Adam
All GT6s were built as 2 litres, but the 2500 is externally identical and drops straight in.
There are various combinations of block, head, pistons carbs and inlet manifold that can be combined rightly and wrongly to provide an engine that runs sweetly - but they're not the most potent units at the best of times and the wrong combination of bits can leave you with less than 90bhp, so you might want to establish what the motor came out of. In a perfect world it'll be from a pre-'73 2500PI saloon.
Otherwise they're just Meccano, and I think you can get everything for them, so provided you can wield a spanner rust is your only real worry; the chassis is really only a backbone, so the floors and sills do a bit more work than they might in other separate chassis cars.
There are various combinations of block, head, pistons carbs and inlet manifold that can be combined rightly and wrongly to provide an engine that runs sweetly - but they're not the most potent units at the best of times and the wrong combination of bits can leave you with less than 90bhp, so you might want to establish what the motor came out of. In a perfect world it'll be from a pre-'73 2500PI saloon.
Otherwise they're just Meccano, and I think you can get everything for them, so provided you can wield a spanner rust is your only real worry; the chassis is really only a backbone, so the floors and sills do a bit more work than they might in other separate chassis cars.
I was under the impression the 2500 did not drop straight in to the GT6 because the added stroke to get 2.5 litres meant a different sump design to accommodate the greater throw of the crank.
Various bodges have been undertaken including cutting the front cross member which is inadvisable. Adding a 2.5 badge to a 2.0 was not unknown either...
I may of course be wrong, I've never owned a GT6 but I've had a couple of Spitfires and a TR6 afterwards, and was always keen to stick a TR6 PI engine in a Spitfre which is when I was told about the crank throw.
In short, unless you knows your onions, get someone who does to look at it!
Various bodges have been undertaken including cutting the front cross member which is inadvisable. Adding a 2.5 badge to a 2.0 was not unknown either...
I may of course be wrong, I've never owned a GT6 but I've had a couple of Spitfires and a TR6 afterwards, and was always keen to stick a TR6 PI engine in a Spitfre which is when I was told about the crank throw.
In short, unless you knows your onions, get someone who does to look at it!
normally the gt6 sump is retained and has to have 2 maybe 3 bulges bashed into it where the conrods contact it to accommodate the extra throw of the crank.
you can use a 2500 sump from a saloon but it is a lot more work to get it to fit decently as the engine is canted over in the saloon and there is no clearance for the steering rack.
blocks are essentially the same height just different cranks and pistons fitted,the main reason the 2500 is a low revver compared to the 2000 but produces more torque,the c/heads were of varying thickness to attain the desired c/ratio.
a well tuned 2500 is still perky and makes an excellent effortless touring engine.
you can use a 2500 sump from a saloon but it is a lot more work to get it to fit decently as the engine is canted over in the saloon and there is no clearance for the steering rack.
blocks are essentially the same height just different cranks and pistons fitted,the main reason the 2500 is a low revver compared to the 2000 but produces more torque,the c/heads were of varying thickness to attain the desired c/ratio.
a well tuned 2500 is still perky and makes an excellent effortless touring engine.
Thank you all the advice so far. It has been quite an enjoyable read if I'm honest.
Further research suggests you are all correct and its either a 2500 engine swap or just the badge stuck on. Either way it's not a bad thing.
How reliable were the odometers in these? The car reckons to have done around 6700 miles. I find this extremely unusual especially considering the condition, although for an 30 year old car I suppose it's about right.
The interior is poor, needs new foams and covers with some major tlc. The previous owner has fitted an aftermarket stereo and big speakers in the back.
As for rust, the quick initial check I did showed no rust around doors or on chassis in door areas. Sills seemed pretty strong. Huge amounts of bonnet peel, but the bonnet it self looks okay. Surface rust in many external areas seemed to be minor, however a deeper check inside is needed. Pimpled chrome all round and disc breaks which would probably be seized.
Further research suggests you are all correct and its either a 2500 engine swap or just the badge stuck on. Either way it's not a bad thing.
How reliable were the odometers in these? The car reckons to have done around 6700 miles. I find this extremely unusual especially considering the condition, although for an 30 year old car I suppose it's about right.
The interior is poor, needs new foams and covers with some major tlc. The previous owner has fitted an aftermarket stereo and big speakers in the back.
As for rust, the quick initial check I did showed no rust around doors or on chassis in door areas. Sills seemed pretty strong. Huge amounts of bonnet peel, but the bonnet it self looks okay. Surface rust in many external areas seemed to be minor, however a deeper check inside is needed. Pimpled chrome all round and disc breaks which would probably be seized.
TheAdWrighty said:
How reliable were the odometers in these? The car reckons to have done around 6700 miles. I find this extremely unusual especially considering the condition, although for an 30 year old car I suppose it's about right.
Five digit odometer, by any chance? What's the MOT history say?But, at the end of the day, it's a 40+yo car. The odometer is irrelevant.
As others have said not a factory model but an uncommon mod to put the engine from a 2.5 saloon in to a GT6/Spitfire either. You just need the front and rear plates from the GT6 (so it stands vertical rather than canted to the right as in the saloons) and the GT6 sump with a bit of hammer tuning to give clearance for the front couple of con rods.
Regarding 7k miles on the clock... The car's at least 40 years old so probably been round the clock at least once!
Regarding 7k miles on the clock... The car's at least 40 years old so probably been round the clock at least once!
Further to the previous comments.
Had a more in depth photo'd look around the motor. Engine appears to be a 2.5 Ti unit, has a stamp beginning MG, correct me if I'm wrong with that. Quite good condition throughout actually, very little rust. None around any lamp clusters, wheel arches or doors. New rear shocks, unsure of the brand, they are yellow if that helps. Interior is better than previously thought. Water is coming through the vent into the drivers floor causing surface rust under the carpet. Mileage of 6k ish and only one mot backing that from 2012, good amount of work done to it on the mot, only one advisory afterwards. Bonnet in definite need of tlc.
Overall I'm impressed at the condition, chassis is still coated and strong looking, no major rust spots as yet. No prices given as there is no v5 or keys due to abandonment, hopefully this should help with the price haggling.
Any further suggestions to look at and use to haggle?
Was the engine swap a worthwhile upgrade?
Adam
Had a more in depth photo'd look around the motor. Engine appears to be a 2.5 Ti unit, has a stamp beginning MG, correct me if I'm wrong with that. Quite good condition throughout actually, very little rust. None around any lamp clusters, wheel arches or doors. New rear shocks, unsure of the brand, they are yellow if that helps. Interior is better than previously thought. Water is coming through the vent into the drivers floor causing surface rust under the carpet. Mileage of 6k ish and only one mot backing that from 2012, good amount of work done to it on the mot, only one advisory afterwards. Bonnet in definite need of tlc.
Overall I'm impressed at the condition, chassis is still coated and strong looking, no major rust spots as yet. No prices given as there is no v5 or keys due to abandonment, hopefully this should help with the price haggling.
Any further suggestions to look at and use to haggle?
Was the engine swap a worthwhile upgrade?
Adam
TheAdWrighty said:
Further to the previous comments.
Had a more in depth photo'd look around the motor. Engine appears to be a 2.5 Ti unit, has a stamp beginning MG, correct me if I'm wrong with that. Quite good condition throughout actually, very little rust. None around any lamp clusters, wheel arches or doors. New rear shocks, unsure of the brand, they are yellow if that helps. Interior is better than previously thought. Water is coming through the vent into the drivers floor causing surface rust under the carpet. Mileage of 6k ish and only one mot backing that from 2012, good amount of work done to it on the mot, only one advisory afterwards. Bonnet in definite need of tlc.
Overall I'm impressed at the condition, chassis is still coated and strong looking, no major rust spots as yet. No prices given as there is no v5 or keys due to abandonment, hopefully this should help with the price haggling.
Any further suggestions to look at and use to haggle?
Was the engine swap a worthwhile upgrade?
Adam
I've got a '72 MK3, it's the second I've had and quite a bit tidier than my first so I can tell you a bit about rust spots. It's worth checking the leading edge of the roof, there was a gutter there from the factory which quickly rusted, so most have it effectively removed and filled - not a problem but worth checking for the quality of the repair. Be aware that bonnets can be costly to work on being such a big panel - changing wings requires the changing of inner arch bowels ideally, so things can quickly snowball.Had a more in depth photo'd look around the motor. Engine appears to be a 2.5 Ti unit, has a stamp beginning MG, correct me if I'm wrong with that. Quite good condition throughout actually, very little rust. None around any lamp clusters, wheel arches or doors. New rear shocks, unsure of the brand, they are yellow if that helps. Interior is better than previously thought. Water is coming through the vent into the drivers floor causing surface rust under the carpet. Mileage of 6k ish and only one mot backing that from 2012, good amount of work done to it on the mot, only one advisory afterwards. Bonnet in definite need of tlc.
Overall I'm impressed at the condition, chassis is still coated and strong looking, no major rust spots as yet. No prices given as there is no v5 or keys due to abandonment, hopefully this should help with the price haggling.
Any further suggestions to look at and use to haggle?
Was the engine swap a worthwhile upgrade?
Adam
Moving to a 2500cc lump is probably one of the easiest ways to up the power, I have heard that it's not as keen to rev as compared to the 2000cc unit however I've not driven one so I can't comment.
On an aside though, they are a fantastic car, nothing brings a smile to my face like the noise it makes when I've not driven it for a while. It's worth taking the time to make sure you get the right car, but other than that I can't recommend getting one enough. Love mine to pieces.
t design.tapkaJohnD said:
What no one above has recalled is that the 2.5l engine in the saloon was identical to that in the TR5-6, just a bit de-tuned.
With a TR5 camshaft and Pi, this engine can achieve 120bhp at least, which in a car lighter than the TR5-6 is 'sufficient'.
John
Am I right in thinking the TR5 cam can improve the standard 2l engine too? Are they easy to get hold of?With a TR5 camshaft and Pi, this engine can achieve 120bhp at least, which in a car lighter than the TR5-6 is 'sufficient'.
John
I had a Mk2 & Mk3 as an everyday car.....albeit 20 years ago.
I would echo the roof problem, be especially suspicious if it has a vinyl roof.
The rear leaf spring on mine collapsed, which at the time I couldn't repair so sold the car for pennies.
Fond memories and great fun....easy & cheap to maintain.
I would echo the roof problem, be especially suspicious if it has a vinyl roof.
The rear leaf spring on mine collapsed, which at the time I couldn't repair so sold the car for pennies.
Fond memories and great fun....easy & cheap to maintain.
Brought back a few memories. A mate of mine bought one in about 1983. It had sat for about two years. We got it going, and he ran it for about six months, did a bit of maintenance on it etc. we lived down south and he got a job in Glasgow, and decided to drive it up there. It broke down somewhere on the M8' and he left it there ... I think he paid £75 for it so it wasn't a lot of money...
He enjoyed it though until it broke. M reg from memory with tinted glass. Boy did it get hot in there though!
He enjoyed it though until it broke. M reg from memory with tinted glass. Boy did it get hot in there though!
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