What should I do with my car over winter?
Discussion
I'm wondering what I should do with my classic car over winter basically. It's an MGB GT and I have had it since about May, so I have never had to deal with an old car in winter before. I passed my test in Spring 2014 so I have only driven through one winter so far, and that was in a Polo.
The car runs well when it is in regular use but recently I left it standing for almost 2 weeks whilst I was on holiday and it was a real battle to get it started when I came back. The body work is average at best with rust bubbling up in a few places and the underside has not been sealed recently as far as I can tell. I have really enjoyed driving it all summer, but the worse the weather gets, the less enjoyable it becomes.
I have a garage and another car, so the option is there to garage it all winter and bring it out of hibernation in February/March time next year, but that seems like the easy way out and I am worried with how it will cope with standing for 3 months. Plus I would really like to have a go in it if it snows. If I did garage it all winter, I would love to sort a few things out and have a tinker with it, but I don't really have the funds to do most of the things I would like to.
The other option is to underseal it properly, wax it up to protect the paint and to carry on as i am now, driving it for something like 2 weeks of every month, but I don't know how bad this would be for the car, I don't want to ruin it. I have been using it in the rain a lot recently, in fact it's outside getting a soaking now while the Polo sits nice and dry in the garage, do I need to worry about driving it the rain? That's more of an all year round question, as not using in the rain would restrict how much I can use it in general.
Or I could do a mix of the two and drive it occasionally through the winter when it's a nice day and the roads aren't (too) salty.
Also:
Can I put my tax and insurance on hold for a few months to save money if I do t plan on driving it?
Would driving the car in the snow cause any more damage/issues that driving it in the rain? (Unless I stack it in the snow obviously)
Is there anything I should do to prepare my car against the elements a bit more?
Any advice appreciated
The car runs well when it is in regular use but recently I left it standing for almost 2 weeks whilst I was on holiday and it was a real battle to get it started when I came back. The body work is average at best with rust bubbling up in a few places and the underside has not been sealed recently as far as I can tell. I have really enjoyed driving it all summer, but the worse the weather gets, the less enjoyable it becomes.
I have a garage and another car, so the option is there to garage it all winter and bring it out of hibernation in February/March time next year, but that seems like the easy way out and I am worried with how it will cope with standing for 3 months. Plus I would really like to have a go in it if it snows. If I did garage it all winter, I would love to sort a few things out and have a tinker with it, but I don't really have the funds to do most of the things I would like to.
The other option is to underseal it properly, wax it up to protect the paint and to carry on as i am now, driving it for something like 2 weeks of every month, but I don't know how bad this would be for the car, I don't want to ruin it. I have been using it in the rain a lot recently, in fact it's outside getting a soaking now while the Polo sits nice and dry in the garage, do I need to worry about driving it the rain? That's more of an all year round question, as not using in the rain would restrict how much I can use it in general.
Or I could do a mix of the two and drive it occasionally through the winter when it's a nice day and the roads aren't (too) salty.
Also:
Can I put my tax and insurance on hold for a few months to save money if I do t plan on driving it?
Would driving the car in the snow cause any more damage/issues that driving it in the rain? (Unless I stack it in the snow obviously)
Is there anything I should do to prepare my car against the elements a bit more?
Any advice appreciated
Just drive and enjoy it!
That's my plan this year anyway. The way I look at it the car won't dissolve as soon as the weather turns bad. Yes you don't want it sitting permanently damp and covered in salt, but keep it clean outside and underneath and it will be fine.
I'm in a similar position and have a newer car which will be used if the weathers terrible, but no way am I missing out on driving the classic on the sunny winters days.
If you were talking about a concours car then yes I would park it up, but if it's not perfect anyway things can always be repaired. Waxoil is a good idea if done properly, I'm not so convinced on under seal as it can trap moisture and hide rot. Better to be able to see what your dealing with and keep it clean but that's personal preference.
That's my plan this year anyway. The way I look at it the car won't dissolve as soon as the weather turns bad. Yes you don't want it sitting permanently damp and covered in salt, but keep it clean outside and underneath and it will be fine.
I'm in a similar position and have a newer car which will be used if the weathers terrible, but no way am I missing out on driving the classic on the sunny winters days.
If you were talking about a concours car then yes I would park it up, but if it's not perfect anyway things can always be repaired. Waxoil is a good idea if done properly, I'm not so convinced on under seal as it can trap moisture and hide rot. Better to be able to see what your dealing with and keep it clean but that's personal preference.
The rust is coming through from the inside. The rain won't make any difference and a coat of wax might make it look shiny but will do nothing for the rust one way or the other.
You may as well use the car. It's going to carry on rusting even if it sits in a garage.
A liberal coating underneath of Waxoyl wont do any harm (use the clear stuff) but the only real cure for rust is surgery.
You may as well use the car. It's going to carry on rusting even if it sits in a garage.
A liberal coating underneath of Waxoyl wont do any harm (use the clear stuff) but the only real cure for rust is surgery.
I would keep it running. It doesn't sound like a garage queen so may as well get some enjoyment out if it.
Make sure you have good depth on your tyres, or fit new, all weather ones. Keep the battery charged to help with cold starts. Fit LED llights in place of your sidelight bulbs and keep your lights on in all but the clearest days. Fit good LED red lights in place of your rear lights. Take spares with you. Get a good mix of anti freeze in, and a good concentration of winter Windscreen wash. Fix any leaks around window rubbers to minimise condensation. Rain WILL speed up rust if it gets into cavities. Keep the car clean to remove salt and mud that traps moisture. For any surface rust spots, apply rust killer and clear wax. Replace points with electronic ignition.
Bilt hamber Dynax UC sprayed liberally underneath.
....and enjoy
Make sure you have good depth on your tyres, or fit new, all weather ones. Keep the battery charged to help with cold starts. Fit LED llights in place of your sidelight bulbs and keep your lights on in all but the clearest days. Fit good LED red lights in place of your rear lights. Take spares with you. Get a good mix of anti freeze in, and a good concentration of winter Windscreen wash. Fix any leaks around window rubbers to minimise condensation. Rain WILL speed up rust if it gets into cavities. Keep the car clean to remove salt and mud that traps moisture. For any surface rust spots, apply rust killer and clear wax. Replace points with electronic ignition.
Bilt hamber Dynax UC sprayed liberally underneath.
....and enjoy
Personally I'd keep it taxed, insured and roadworthy but I wouldn't use it regardless of weather unless you really do want to re-live the 1960s. If the weather is ok, then drive it; rain isn't going to melt the car and after all they were supposed to be 24/7 cars back in their day.
But if we get a bad winter with lots of ice, snow and fog then I'd leave it in the garage and use a modern. We rapidly forget how far modern cars have come - heated screens & mirrors, reliable electrics and starting, ABS, suspension, etc. It might be fun to drive a RWD MGB in the snow but only on a deserted car park, once you're on the road and sliding towards someone else with no control, then it's not so much fun.
I'm not concerned about damaging my (your) car but hitting someone else when you get the hassle of getting it fixed, insurance, etc. Yep, it can all happen in a modern car but you have a better chance of avoiding a bad weather accident in something FWD & modern. And there will be days when you're wet & cold and just want to get home, not fiddle under the bonnet of a car because everything has gotten damp and it won't start.
So if the weather turns bad, use it as a chance to catch up on small projects or maintenance to improve the car and make it more reliable for next year. Keeping it road legal also gives you the chance to pop out every now and then to check out your progress, after all we rarely have a solid 3 months of ice & snow.
But if we get a bad winter with lots of ice, snow and fog then I'd leave it in the garage and use a modern. We rapidly forget how far modern cars have come - heated screens & mirrors, reliable electrics and starting, ABS, suspension, etc. It might be fun to drive a RWD MGB in the snow but only on a deserted car park, once you're on the road and sliding towards someone else with no control, then it's not so much fun.
I'm not concerned about damaging my (your) car but hitting someone else when you get the hassle of getting it fixed, insurance, etc. Yep, it can all happen in a modern car but you have a better chance of avoiding a bad weather accident in something FWD & modern. And there will be days when you're wet & cold and just want to get home, not fiddle under the bonnet of a car because everything has gotten damp and it won't start.
So if the weather turns bad, use it as a chance to catch up on small projects or maintenance to improve the car and make it more reliable for next year. Keeping it road legal also gives you the chance to pop out every now and then to check out your progress, after all we rarely have a solid 3 months of ice & snow.
Is the garage dry? - what sort of construction is it? (i.e does it have a flat roof - if so you'll possibly have condensation issues) - is it an internal to house garage (best) if even considering leaving the car laid-up for several months it must (before going in garage) be perfectly dry on the underside. Its not just rust you need to be concerned about if laying-up - brakes components will deteriorate if the brake fluid is not regularly changed - battery will suffer - is anti-freeze up to spec' (fresh and 50/50 mix)- sitting on tyres may create flats-spots - engine oil, is this clean? condensation may be an issue. If answer to all these is no - then use the vehicle as often as possible except on days when salt is present on the road - or be prepared to hose-off underside at end of season.
So the general consensus is to prepare the car as much as possible for the cold and then carry on enjoying it, that sounds good to me. I was expecting a more negative response.
RE the garage; it's rented from the council and under a flat, so it is bone dry inside, the roof is flat but I have never noticed any consensation. It has no power or lighting and is very tight, so I can't do any work on the car in the garage, it's purely for storage.
RE the garage; it's rented from the council and under a flat, so it is bone dry inside, the roof is flat but I have never noticed any consensation. It has no power or lighting and is very tight, so I can't do any work on the car in the garage, it's purely for storage.
OP, MGB's rust unless very well looked after. Also, they don't like standing for too long...suspension joints readily seize if not properly maintained. I'm going to suggest something different and that is to drive the B' on dry days and drive the other car on poor, rainy, wintery days. But first prep' the car as well as possible...get the B' up on axle stands in the garage and complete the following...
1. protect all inner sill and chassis sections with this http://www.bilthamber.com/corrosion-protection-and...
2. underneath clean back any existing poorly treated areas and treat with AquaSteel http://aquasteel.co.uk/
3. once dry, coat with a Bilt Hamber underbody wax treatment http://www.bilthamber.com/corrosion-protection-and...
Waxoyl's okay but these days there are better products that are easier to apply.
4. check and re-grease all your suspension bushes and where nippled re-grease with a grease gun, especially the kingpins
5. rear suspension springs seize and make for very poor handling...soak the spring leaves with GT85 PTFE spray for a weekend, wrapped in thick newspaper or similar...then take for a drive to work lose. Come back to garage spray was the springs.
6.complete standard winter service, change all fluids if necessary, give the engine bay a really good clean up...you'll be amazed at what some hot soapy water and a thorough drying can do...finish wipe with a liberal coating of wd40 on a cloth, check all wiring/fuses/connectors...
...and off you go. Wet days drive the modern, dry days and fun days drive the MGB...this gives you best of both worlds; job done.
1. protect all inner sill and chassis sections with this http://www.bilthamber.com/corrosion-protection-and...
2. underneath clean back any existing poorly treated areas and treat with AquaSteel http://aquasteel.co.uk/
3. once dry, coat with a Bilt Hamber underbody wax treatment http://www.bilthamber.com/corrosion-protection-and...
Waxoyl's okay but these days there are better products that are easier to apply.
4. check and re-grease all your suspension bushes and where nippled re-grease with a grease gun, especially the kingpins
5. rear suspension springs seize and make for very poor handling...soak the spring leaves with GT85 PTFE spray for a weekend, wrapped in thick newspaper or similar...then take for a drive to work lose. Come back to garage spray was the springs.
6.complete standard winter service, change all fluids if necessary, give the engine bay a really good clean up...you'll be amazed at what some hot soapy water and a thorough drying can do...finish wipe with a liberal coating of wd40 on a cloth, check all wiring/fuses/connectors...
...and off you go. Wet days drive the modern, dry days and fun days drive the MGB...this gives you best of both worlds; job done.
swisstoni said:
I vividly remember unintentionally fishtailing my Cortina down a London street with parked cars both sides in the snow.
No ABS or ESP in those days, just WTF !
But, of course, we had the privilege of learning to drive properly without 'driver aids' and computers getting in the way. People rely on these so much today...their driving styles would be very different if they were all switched off and they had to use their driving skills, common sense and proper driver's instinct.No ABS or ESP in those days, just WTF !
Like many, I have fond memories of learning to drive in friends' Beetles and Minis...and my first car, an ex-Police MKII Escort...bright orange with a black vinyl roof and re-enforced suspension mounts...the sheer youthful fun of tearing around the country lanes in these during the winter months and the nervous pleasure of driving on snow for the first time. Lost count the number of times we 'ditched' the cars, then spending endless hours in the freezing cold pulling them free and checking for any damage post loss of control. We always carried ex-military fold up spades, hessian sacks, a block of wood and tow rope in the boot. Thirty years on I still have this spade.
This is thread is danger of turning into a "back in my day" lecture but I guess the OP already has his answer, keep it garaged and keep using it. That's the best way of having it start on the button (well full choke and balanced throttle).
I've had plenty of experience of the BMC B series engines and above all they don't like cold and damp, so keep the battery well charged for a strong spark and ensure the plugs are clean and the points and distributor cap clean and tidy.
I remember my MGA (here we go) my only form of transport when I was 18 for about 2 or 3 years and yes it was a bugger on cold damp days when the screen would frost up on the inside but roof down on a crisp day with the engine thriving on the cold air it was glorious! Oh and I drove it in rain, ice and snow.
I've had plenty of experience of the BMC B series engines and above all they don't like cold and damp, so keep the battery well charged for a strong spark and ensure the plugs are clean and the points and distributor cap clean and tidy.
I remember my MGA (here we go) my only form of transport when I was 18 for about 2 or 3 years and yes it was a bugger on cold damp days when the screen would frost up on the inside but roof down on a crisp day with the engine thriving on the cold air it was glorious! Oh and I drove it in rain, ice and snow.
v8250 said:
RichB said:
That's the best way of having it start on the button (well full choke and balanced throttle)
You forgot the obligatory non-BMC/BL wooden clothes peg...always thought there was the opportunity for an MG branded one of these...or even BMC Works Competition.I'm in the drive it camp.
However, it shouldn't need coaxing into life after only 2 week hols. Give it a bloody good service before winter starts, (include lubing all seals/locks on a winter service) it'll be more rewarding to drive and be more reliable. You don't want to having to work on it when the weather turns, or loose confidence in it.
However, it shouldn't need coaxing into life after only 2 week hols. Give it a bloody good service before winter starts, (include lubing all seals/locks on a winter service) it'll be more rewarding to drive and be more reliable. You don't want to having to work on it when the weather turns, or loose confidence in it.
Mr. Nice Guy said:
So the general consensus is to prepare the car as much as possible for the cold and then carry on enjoying it, that sounds good to me. I was expecting a more negative response.
RE the garage; it's rented from the council and under a flat, so it is bone dry inside, the roof is flat but I have never noticed any consensation. It has no power or lighting and is very tight, so I can't do any work on the car in the garage, it's purely for storage.
Garage sounds fine - it will absorb heat from the flats and should always be a few degrees above external temperature - just be sure if using the car it only goes back in the garage when completely dry - Salt off the road surface can be a big issue. If caught out in wet weather leave car outside to dry off for a few days once wet weather has eased. Never start the car up to just move it - always do at least a 5 mile run to thoroughly warm all fluids and car throughout. Heat then given off from the car when in garage will dry off any remaining moisture present. Don't leave garage door open during winter for more than a few seconds - condensation will settle on car surfaces. Consider insulating garage door if its a steel up 'n' over.RE the garage; it's rented from the council and under a flat, so it is bone dry inside, the roof is flat but I have never noticed any consensation. It has no power or lighting and is very tight, so I can't do any work on the car in the garage, it's purely for storage.
When did everyone become so reliant on modern cars, I drive a 1975 FE2300s everyday and have done for the last 20 months. The car lives outside and always starts and the only mod is fitting the biggest battery I could, this was done because I do a lot of short journeys (1-2 miles).
It even runs on points as this was how it was designed, I could change many things to make it "better" but it then starts to lose its charm and I may as well buy another modern.
Use it as much as possible and keep on top of any maintenance as for the suggestions that you will spend most of your time in a ditch if you drive within the cars limits and alter your driving style to the road and weather conditions then you will be ok.
An MGB should be an easy car to use as an everyday classic I say enjoy it all year round.
BTW I had more problems driving modern cars maintained by the dealers than I do with my well maintained classics, these things don't go into limp mode because it doesn't see a sensor or shut the car down whilst going round a busy roundabout because the computer says no.
I hope to never buy another modern car and also have the wife thinking of going classic when she gets rid of her modern.
It even runs on points as this was how it was designed, I could change many things to make it "better" but it then starts to lose its charm and I may as well buy another modern.
Use it as much as possible and keep on top of any maintenance as for the suggestions that you will spend most of your time in a ditch if you drive within the cars limits and alter your driving style to the road and weather conditions then you will be ok.
An MGB should be an easy car to use as an everyday classic I say enjoy it all year round.
BTW I had more problems driving modern cars maintained by the dealers than I do with my well maintained classics, these things don't go into limp mode because it doesn't see a sensor or shut the car down whilst going round a busy roundabout because the computer says no.
I hope to never buy another modern car and also have the wife thinking of going classic when she gets rid of her modern.
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