Dizzy Cap - Worn Contacts?

[gregives]

Hi all,

I've been having a bit of trouble with my GT6, it's developed a nasty misfire when cold but it disappears completely when it's warmed up. Checked the distributor cap and whilst the contacts look clean, it looks like some of the contacts are missing some of the plating? And must have a pretty small contact patch with the rotor arm. Could this be causing it?

I'm still getting to grips with working on it, so please excuse lack of knowledge!

[a8hex]

If it's misfiring when cold (?in the morning?) but fine when warm could it be moisture?

My misfire is the opposite, it all seems fine when cold and then misfires when warm.

[Wacky Racer]

I had a two year old Spitfire Mk 4 which was misfiring, had a hairline crack in the dizzy cap.

New one cured it.

£3.

[a8hex]

To find cracks try looking at it in the dark, a couple of weeks ago I could see the inside of mine all lit up with blue sparks.

[N Dentressangle]

It could be any of several parts of the ignition system.

Given the cheapness of this bits, to solve a similar problem on my 84 Mini I just replaced:

HT leads
Spark plugs
Dizzy cap
Rotor arm

Problem solved. As it looks like you're still running points, you might want to add points and condenser to that list, or convert to electronic ignition.

As an aside, Halfords neither sell HT leads, nor did the lad behind the counter know what they were. Distributor caps were met with another look of confusion.

[gregives]

a8hex said:

If it's misfiring when cold (?in the morning?) but fine when warm could it be moisture?

My misfire is the opposite, it all seems fine when cold and then misfires when warm.

Ah I hadn't thought of something like moisture, it has been doing it for a while and it's been getting progressively worse. Initially it was only a slight misfire, now it audibly only runs on four cylinders to begin with.

Did you ever fix yours or is it still there? I believe the dizzy cap is a classic culprit for a misfire when it's warm..

[gregives]

N Dentressangle said:

It could be any of several parts of the ignition system.

Given the cheapness of this bits, to solve a similar problem on my 84 Mini I just replaced:

HT leads
Spark plugs
Dizzy cap
Rotor arm

Problem solved. As it looks like you're still running points, you might want to add points and condenser to that list, or convert to electronic ignition.

As an aside, Halfords neither sell HT leads, nor did the lad behind the counter know what they were. Distributor caps were met with another look of confusion.

I was thinking of going down a similar route, I'm just not sure where to get really good quality parts from.

I won't try Halfrauds in that case haha. Can you imagine the panic that would have ensued if you'd asked him to fit a distributor cap?

[Wacky Racer]

Make sure you take the leads out ONE AT A TIME, when swapping caps, and label them with coloured tape...very easy to get them mixed up, especially with a six cylinder car.

Replacing rotor arm and dizzycap on a GT6....Ten minute easy job.

[gregives]

Wacky Racer said:

Make sure you take the leads out ONE AT A TIME, when swapping caps, and label them with coloured tape...very easy to get them mixed up, especially with a six cylinder car.

Replacing rotor arm and dizzycap on a GT6....Ten minute easy job.

A welcome piece of a good news! Changing the rotor arm can be done without disturbing the timing at all then I take it?

And thank you for the tips! Thankfully a previous owner very kindly labelled all the HT leads.

[Wacky Racer]

gregives said:

Wacky Racer said:

Make sure you take the leads out ONE AT A TIME, when swapping caps, and label them with coloured tape...very easy to get them mixed up, especially with a six cylinder car.

Replacing rotor arm and dizzycap on a GT6....Ten minute easy job.

A welcome piece of a good news! Changing the rotor arm can be done without disturbing the timing at all then I take it?

And thank you for the tips! Thankfully a previous owner very kindly labelled all the HT leads.

No need to touch the timing.

If you DO need to alter it, loosen the locking bolt on the distributor and turn it (The distributor) very slowly with your hand (either way.....advance or retard) with the engine ticking over.

(Don't wear anything like a tie that could get stuck in a fan belt etc)

[a8hex]

gregives said:

Did you ever fix yours or is it still there? I believe the dizzy cap is a classic culprit for a misfire when it's warm..

Mine's the topic about "who needs Christmas lights..."
I've not fixed my problem, but it is much better after replacing the dizzy cap.
A new set of HT leads is on order (oh and spare coil just in case)

Checking the grounding strap has been suggested too.
I've got another weird electrical problem where occasionally I turn the key and there is nothing. No sign of life, yet strangely if the CTEK battery conditioner is connected then I can start the engine OK. A dodgy earth lead could probably cause this issue too.

[gregives]

Wacky Racer said:

No need to touch the timing.

If you DO need to alter it, loosen the locking bolt on the distributor and turn it (The distributor) very slowly with your hand (either way.....advance or retard) with the engine ticking over.

(Don't wear anything like a tie that could get stuck in a fan belt etc)

Is there any easy ways to tell if it does need adjusting at all?

[gregives]

a8hex said:

Mine's the topic about "who needs Christmas lights..."
I've not fixed my problem, but it is much better after replacing the dizzy cap.
A new set of HT leads is on order (oh and spare coil just in case)

Checking the grounding strap has been suggested too.
I've got another weird electrical problem where occasionally I turn the key and there is nothing. No sign of life, yet strangely if the CTEK battery conditioner is connected then I can start the engine OK. A dodgy earth lead could probably cause this issue too.

I'll go have a little look at that next.. Have you tried the condenser?

That is really odd, I'd be interested to know where the earth fault is there. It might be interesting to check for continuity between the ground of the battery terminal and the ground connection at the starter motor. Although that's probably beyond the reach of most multimeter leads

[Wacky Racer]

gregives said:

Wacky Racer said:

No need to touch the timing.

If you DO need to alter it, loosen the locking bolt on the distributor and turn it (The distributor) very slowly with your hand (either way.....advance or retard) with the engine ticking over.

(Don't wear anything like a tie that could get stuck in a fan belt etc)

Is there any easy ways to tell if it does need adjusting at all?

You can check it easily enough with a simple timing light, plenty of info on Google.

My advice would be leave well alone if the engine is running fine. (Once you have solved your misfire).

An easy way to do a quick basic job is loosen the nut, twist the distributor until the tickover revs rise to the maximum, (get a friend to look at the rev counter or use a mirror)...failing that, just listen to the engine note. Don't to forget to REtighten the locking bolt/screw after.

I'm a bit rusty, it's forty years since I did this, and I'm certainly no mechanic, just going off memory.....

[anonymous-user]

I ran a Gt6 as a daily driver back in the day, the advice from A8hex is spot on when investigating any ignition problem, run it in the dark,

[N Dentressangle]

gregives said:

I was thinking of going down a similar route, I'm just not sure where to get really good quality parts from.

I won't try Halfrauds in that case haha. Can you imagine the panic that would have ensued if you'd asked him to fit a distributor cap?

Depending where you are in Dorset, you could try these guys:

http://www.southerntriumph.com/

Alternatively it's mail order through Rimmers, Moss, Canley Classics or any of the many other specialists. Your local motor factors may well be able to order you these bits in too.

Make sure you change the points and condenser too, or just fit one of these:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Triumph-GT6-AccuSpark-el...

It's what I put on the Mini, and works really well.

[PositronicRay]

If cars a "keeper" and you can run to it, I'd recommend a 123 electronic dizzy. it'll solve all sorts of knackered dizzy problems, programmable advance, it really is fit and forget.

[N Dentressangle]

PositronicRay said:

If cars a "keeper" and you can run to it, I'd recommend a 123 electronic dizzy. it'll solve all sorts of knackered dizzy problems, programmable advance, it really is fit and forget.

+1 - they looked ace to me at the time, only I was too tight fisted to stump up the cash. The cheapo kit works fine, but does rely on a generally decent condition distributor already, bob weights moving freely etc. Given the choice, or an already worn distributor, the full electronic job is miles better. Not that expensive, either, really.

[anonymous-user]

Many of the ignition parts available today are poor quality, even those in Lucas boxes can be cheap Chinese crap. I'd recommend
http://www.distributordoctor.com/

No connection with them BTW.

[Tyre Tread]

rovermorris999 said:

Many of the ignition parts available today are poor quality, even those in Lucas boxes can be cheap Chinese crap. I'd recommend
http://www.distributordoctor.com/

No connection with them BTW.

I'd second that.

I ordered a full ignition set for my Rover P5B from my local factors (who I'd used for years)but they were suck poor quality I refused to pay for them and ordered the lot from http://www.distributordoctor.com/ instead and I was v happy with them.