Help me kit out my classic friendly garage?
Discussion
My missus and I have just bought a house together… and it has a garage!!
I've never had my own garage before and I never really expected to. Naturally I'm very, very excited about the prospect of being able to work on my car without being reliant on the weather (why is it always too hot/too cold/raining/about to rain when you want to work on a car outside?).
I'm after a bit of advice regarding kitting out my nice new workspace. It's approx 21 feet long by 9.5 foot wide, so it's not the biggest in the world.… as much as I'd like a pillar drill etc. I have to be realistic about how much stuff I can fit in there and still have room for my car! The garage has mains power so there are no issues with this. I've got a fair old collection of tools I've built up over my 20+ years of working on cars, so my main questions are about storage.
Halfords tool chests. They normally have pretty good bundle offers on… anyone got any thoughts on this stuff? I've got a fair few bits from their 'Professional' range and I'm more than happy with the quality.
Workbenches: anyone got a recommendation for something decent for about £100? Want to be able to mount a decent sized bench vice on it (possibly also a bench grinder).
Metal shelving/racking: Machine Mart seem to do a decent range. Any other recommendations?
Dehumidifiers: I'll want one at some point to help keep the worst ravages of tin worm at bay (my car is a daily driver and goes out in all weathers). Any thoughts?
As I'm a cautious type of chap: fire extinguishers… I want a good sized unit to keep in the garage should the worst happen while I'm in there. Any recommendations? I was thinking that a C02 type might be best, but I'm more than happy to be corrected.
I also have my very own inspection pit.
At the moment it's covered with cut down scaffold planks. These seem more than man enough for the job as I won't need to them to take the weight of my car, but at some point I'll probably change them to some sort of perforated metal grating. Any thoughts on this, or will the planks be ok? (I've got a mate who has a roofing business so I can get hold of new scaffold planks fairly easily).
Any advice would be appreciated.
I've never had my own garage before and I never really expected to. Naturally I'm very, very excited about the prospect of being able to work on my car without being reliant on the weather (why is it always too hot/too cold/raining/about to rain when you want to work on a car outside?).
I'm after a bit of advice regarding kitting out my nice new workspace. It's approx 21 feet long by 9.5 foot wide, so it's not the biggest in the world.… as much as I'd like a pillar drill etc. I have to be realistic about how much stuff I can fit in there and still have room for my car! The garage has mains power so there are no issues with this. I've got a fair old collection of tools I've built up over my 20+ years of working on cars, so my main questions are about storage.
Halfords tool chests. They normally have pretty good bundle offers on… anyone got any thoughts on this stuff? I've got a fair few bits from their 'Professional' range and I'm more than happy with the quality.
Workbenches: anyone got a recommendation for something decent for about £100? Want to be able to mount a decent sized bench vice on it (possibly also a bench grinder).
Metal shelving/racking: Machine Mart seem to do a decent range. Any other recommendations?
Dehumidifiers: I'll want one at some point to help keep the worst ravages of tin worm at bay (my car is a daily driver and goes out in all weathers). Any thoughts?
As I'm a cautious type of chap: fire extinguishers… I want a good sized unit to keep in the garage should the worst happen while I'm in there. Any recommendations? I was thinking that a C02 type might be best, but I'm more than happy to be corrected.
I also have my very own inspection pit.
At the moment it's covered with cut down scaffold planks. These seem more than man enough for the job as I won't need to them to take the weight of my car, but at some point I'll probably change them to some sort of perforated metal grating. Any thoughts on this, or will the planks be ok? (I've got a mate who has a roofing business so I can get hold of new scaffold planks fairly easily).Any advice would be appreciated.
I have modular metal racking from Machine Mart. My workbench is two steel cabinets with a sacrifical mdf/ply top. When it gets too beaten up, I just unbolt the vice and replace the wood. I have a grinding wheel and a pillar drill, both of which bolt through the bench using long bolts and wingnuts. That way, I can remove them when not needed, and give myself more workbench space. I use Linbins on the wall for hardware, a whiteboard for my To-Do list, and I have a CO2 extingisher.
If you're going to use the pit, then get a fume extractor down there. There's not a lot of point in getting a fancy wheely tool chst, because with a garage that size, you ain't going to be wheeling it about much.
Never underestimate the benefit of high shelving (above head height, around the eaves,if you have a pitch roof), and of hanging stuff on the walls.
If you're going to use the pit, then get a fume extractor down there. There's not a lot of point in getting a fancy wheely tool chst, because with a garage that size, you ain't going to be wheeling it about much.
Never underestimate the benefit of high shelving (above head height, around the eaves,if you have a pitch roof), and of hanging stuff on the walls.
One point I would make is that at 9'6" wide and most cars taking about 5'6" - 6' wide you won't have a lot of working space either side of the car so if you want to be able to get round the car while it's in the garage I would plan on keeping the front 15' of wall space clear. Shelves at head height would give storage along this area. At 21' long you will have a 15' car area and a 6'x9'6" working area.
A CO2 extinguisher is probably the best all rounder for the type of fire you are likely to encounter in a garage environment. Foam, and powder have their place and are better under certain circumstances and water is really only any good on things like paper and wood. CO 2 will kill the lot. A must have in my opinion, it could save you a fortune not to mention your life!
Thanks for all the advice so far... given me some food for though.
Regarding inspection pit ventilation: I am aware of the issues with fumes and the various horror stories out there. I was thinking that a fan placed in the bottom to circulate air for a couple of hours before I start work (to prevent any build up of nasties) would hopefully be sufficient.
This sound good, or are there better options? (Google doesn't seem to be much help as search results are aimed at professional garages - don't want to spend hundreds of quid as I'll probably only use the pit every couple of months).
Regarding inspection pit ventilation: I am aware of the issues with fumes and the various horror stories out there. I was thinking that a fan placed in the bottom to circulate air for a couple of hours before I start work (to prevent any build up of nasties) would hopefully be sufficient.
This sound good, or are there better options? (Google doesn't seem to be much help as search results are aimed at professional garages - don't want to spend hundreds of quid as I'll probably only use the pit every couple of months).
HustleRussell said:
The floor man, the floor! Very important! get some of those rubberised garage floor tiles down or something...
Rubber floor tiles, you'll be wanting curtains and a heater next!Paint the floor with epoxy resin floor paint - not the rubbish from B&Q.
Get some rubber tiles to KNEEL ON only, do not cover the whole floor with them - this ain't an F1 pits!
Faust66 said:
Thanks for all the advice so far... given me some food for though.
Regarding inspection pit ventilation: I am aware of the issues with fumes and the various horror stories out there. I was thinking that a fan placed in the bottom to circulate air for a couple of hours before I start work (to prevent any build up of nasties) would hopefully be sufficient.
This sound good, or are there better options? (Google doesn't seem to be much help as search results are aimed at professional garages - don't want to spend hundreds of quid as I'll probably only use the pit every couple of months).
To be honest, if it were me, I'd use the pit as storage, reducing the need for racking, and therefore giving myself more space at 'ground floor' level, and then I'd use trolley jacks and axle stands for when I want to get the car off the ground. Regarding inspection pit ventilation: I am aware of the issues with fumes and the various horror stories out there. I was thinking that a fan placed in the bottom to circulate air for a couple of hours before I start work (to prevent any build up of nasties) would hopefully be sufficient.
This sound good, or are there better options? (Google doesn't seem to be much help as search results are aimed at professional garages - don't want to spend hundreds of quid as I'll probably only use the pit every couple of months).
I have a trolley jack, four high-lift axle stands and four dollies, and that works fine for me.
I have a similar size garage not quite as long though. It's too small except for a bit of tinkering, even when I had a Midget. (current MB no chance)
My advise is to forget working on cars in it. The pit can be useful (had one at my dads place many yrs ago) Keep the area clear enough to stick a bit of car over it when required.
a) Makes a decent size workshop
b) Get into bikes
c) Extend it
d) Car port
e) Do as I do option "a" + put up and and shut up on the drive
What car are you dealing with?
My advise is to forget working on cars in it. The pit can be useful (had one at my dads place many yrs ago) Keep the area clear enough to stick a bit of car over it when required.
a) Makes a decent size workshop
b) Get into bikes
c) Extend it
d) Car port
e) Do as I do option "a" + put up and and shut up on the drive
What car are you dealing with?
Workbenches; I have a wooden one I bought as a kit from B&Q. They don't sell them any more but these people do: http://www.packingtables.co.uk/wooden-workbenches/ (No connection, just first hit on a Google search).
Mine is fixed to two walls in a corner, by long masonry bolts through the legs. It's fitted with an engineer's vice (not that woodworkers one), and has striplights across the back wall, and an Anglepoise-type lamp on it too. Power sockets on the wall, not the bench, protected by a Residual Current Device. Consider plating the work surface with some 4-6mm alloy, as a wood surface takes a beating in an engineering environment, but mine only needed it after twenty years.
Floor, I support the floor paint group. Tiles accumulate dirt.
Lighting; LOTS of striplights, at least two per vehicle space, across it, front and back.
Ventilation. People install heating and draught excluders, and then worry about condensation and corrosion. Far better to have doors that let in the wind, or a high window as ventilation as that will prevent warm air cooling and dumping its water vapour. You can always close the window, and start a garage heater, as long as you open it later.
Think security. Bolts for the door(s) rather than locks, if you can get out into the house from the garage. All the tools you will acquire are highly pocketable and readily sold on. If you do get a wheelable tool cabinet, chain it to the wall. If you have wall cupboards, arrange a security bar across them to prevent them beimg levered open. Trust me, I've been burgled, twice.
Enjoy!
John
Mine is fixed to two walls in a corner, by long masonry bolts through the legs. It's fitted with an engineer's vice (not that woodworkers one), and has striplights across the back wall, and an Anglepoise-type lamp on it too. Power sockets on the wall, not the bench, protected by a Residual Current Device. Consider plating the work surface with some 4-6mm alloy, as a wood surface takes a beating in an engineering environment, but mine only needed it after twenty years.
Floor, I support the floor paint group. Tiles accumulate dirt.
Lighting; LOTS of striplights, at least two per vehicle space, across it, front and back.
Ventilation. People install heating and draught excluders, and then worry about condensation and corrosion. Far better to have doors that let in the wind, or a high window as ventilation as that will prevent warm air cooling and dumping its water vapour. You can always close the window, and start a garage heater, as long as you open it later.
Think security. Bolts for the door(s) rather than locks, if you can get out into the house from the garage. All the tools you will acquire are highly pocketable and readily sold on. If you do get a wheelable tool cabinet, chain it to the wall. If you have wall cupboards, arrange a security bar across them to prevent them beimg levered open. Trust me, I've been burgled, twice.
Enjoy!
John
When I retired I turned a cold,dirty,damp garage that was full of junk and rubbish into a perfect man cave.First make sure it's dry,have you got a good roof? mine was leaking and had to be recovered. I then had the walls and ceiling sealed with fire proof plasterboard.Treated the floor with Dayco garage floor paint,then lots of strip lights.One of those heavy Sealey wooden work benches with a vice,two plastic Stanley workshop cupboards which are more than strong enough to take a large Snap-On tool chest.Yes it cost a few bob,but it was worth it.It's like an extra room in my house,bone dry, easy to clean and warm up,the perfect place to potter.
I really appreciate all the suggestions people - keep 'em coming!
To answer a few questions (rather than multi quoting):
Car is a 1970 Volvo Amazon.
According to the Great Overlord Google, the car is 5' 3" wide and 14' 4" long - this means I have some room to work around, but not a vast amount (one of my criteria when looking at houses was to make sure my car would fit in the garage/driveway… luckily my missus is a bit of a petrolhead and understood completely).
Yes, it may be a tighter fit than I'd ideally like, but it's all relative: after working on cars outside all my life, even a cramped garage will be a massive bonus to me!
I am considering a car port at some point, but this may have to wait as my finances are at a bit of a low ebb at the moment. Unfortunately the drive is only 7' 2" wide so this means any undercover work will have to be done in the garage (some places we looked at had 'driveways' even more narrow than this - and we are talking 1930's semis here… not modern Rabbit hutches). My idea was to let the car 'dry' in the breeze under a car port and then put it into the garage (don't really want to put a wet car away as I'd imagine it won't do it any favours).
There are already nice long strip lights in there, plus a couple of fittings housing ye olde incandesant bulbs over where my work bench will sit… so no worries on the lighting front.
Roof: it's a pitched tile roof with storage in the rafters. Seems to be in good condition (the garage is totally dry despite being unused for a couple of years). The walls are brick construction so I should be ok to put shelves etc. up. Looked at quite a few houses with asbestos garages… not necessarily anything wrong with them as long as they are in good condition, but I prefer brick myself. I'm gonna get my tame roofer to give it a good check over though (he's offered to work in exchange for pints down our local… top fella!).
Security: the garage is detached from the house. I have made damn sure that I have the appropriate level of insurance cover for my tools etc. I will be installing some decent security, possibly an alarm and a floodlight.
Floor covering: to be honest I have not really considered this… my idea of floor covering has always been some cardboard to lie on and maybe the luxury of an old pillow to protect my knees. I will think about tiles or floor paint at some point (maybe… don't want the place to be too effete though!!).
We are completing on Friday 26 Feb so I'll soon have access to my garage - going over on Sunday to do some decorating etc. in the house (gotta paint re-plastered walls where we got the seller to sort some damp out out), so I'll get some pics uploaded soon (my missus seems to think that moving into the house is somehow more important than messing about with my garage… women are strange creatures).
To answer a few questions (rather than multi quoting):
Car is a 1970 Volvo Amazon.
According to the Great Overlord Google, the car is 5' 3" wide and 14' 4" long - this means I have some room to work around, but not a vast amount (one of my criteria when looking at houses was to make sure my car would fit in the garage/driveway… luckily my missus is a bit of a petrolhead and understood completely).
Yes, it may be a tighter fit than I'd ideally like, but it's all relative: after working on cars outside all my life, even a cramped garage will be a massive bonus to me!
I am considering a car port at some point, but this may have to wait as my finances are at a bit of a low ebb at the moment. Unfortunately the drive is only 7' 2" wide so this means any undercover work will have to be done in the garage (some places we looked at had 'driveways' even more narrow than this - and we are talking 1930's semis here… not modern Rabbit hutches). My idea was to let the car 'dry' in the breeze under a car port and then put it into the garage (don't really want to put a wet car away as I'd imagine it won't do it any favours).
There are already nice long strip lights in there, plus a couple of fittings housing ye olde incandesant bulbs over where my work bench will sit… so no worries on the lighting front.
Roof: it's a pitched tile roof with storage in the rafters. Seems to be in good condition (the garage is totally dry despite being unused for a couple of years). The walls are brick construction so I should be ok to put shelves etc. up. Looked at quite a few houses with asbestos garages… not necessarily anything wrong with them as long as they are in good condition, but I prefer brick myself. I'm gonna get my tame roofer to give it a good check over though (he's offered to work in exchange for pints down our local… top fella!).
Security: the garage is detached from the house. I have made damn sure that I have the appropriate level of insurance cover for my tools etc. I will be installing some decent security, possibly an alarm and a floodlight.
Floor covering: to be honest I have not really considered this… my idea of floor covering has always been some cardboard to lie on and maybe the luxury of an old pillow to protect my knees. I will think about tiles or floor paint at some point (maybe… don't want the place to be too effete though!!).
We are completing on Friday 26 Feb so I'll soon have access to my garage - going over on Sunday to do some decorating etc. in the house (gotta paint re-plastered walls where we got the seller to sort some damp out out), so I'll get some pics uploaded soon (my missus seems to think that moving into the house is somehow more important than messing about with my garage… women are strange creatures).
Old Merc said:
When I retired I turned a cold,dirty,damp garage that was full of junk and rubbish into a perfect man cave.First make sure it's dry,have you got a good roof? mine was leaking and had to be recovered. I then had the walls and ceiling sealed with fire proof plasterboard.Treated the floor with Dayco garage floor paint,then lots of strip lights.One of those heavy Sealey wooden work benches with a vice,two plastic Stanley workshop cupboards which are more than strong enough to take a large Snap-On tool chest.Yes it cost a few bob,but it was worth it.It's like an extra room in my house,bone dry, easy to clean and warm up,the perfect place to potter.
Very nice when just done and a lovely job, but you skimped on the floor paint by getting the stuff that lifts with the tyres or an engine hoisr or stand rolling across it as seen in the second pic!Use the epoxy resin when you redo it and it'll be good for 10 years ... !
uk66fastback said:
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Very nice when just done and a lovely job, but you skimped on the floor paint by getting the stuff that lifts with the tyres or an engine hoisr or stand rolling across it as seen in the second pic!
Use the epoxy resin when you redo it and it'll be good for 10 years ... !
Ha HA,your right,its been on my "things to do list" for the last year or so.Trouble I would have to empty the garage again.Mind you that floor has had a good bashing over the years.When you have a nice workshop at home your always asked to do private jobs.Very nice when just done and a lovely job, but you skimped on the floor paint by getting the stuff that lifts with the tyres or an engine hoisr or stand rolling across it as seen in the second pic!
Use the epoxy resin when you redo it and it'll be good for 10 years ... !
Have a look at Costco. You don't have to be a member ( although you save 5% if you are ) and the prices include delivery. They have some really nice tool chests and some other bits from time to time. Don't hang around though, their stock changes quite fast on some items. They have a really nice stainless 72" tool chest and work bench I quite liked, but gone a few days later.
http://www.costco.co.uk/view/c/auto-hardware/autom...
http://www.costco.co.uk/view/c/auto-hardware/autom...
I would be concerned about stepping across the pit boards assuming the pit is closed when the boards are actually up!
It's possible to do a vast amount of damage to yourself that way.
Thus in order to mitigate the risk, I would paint a yellow line around the edge of the pit and paint the pit boards blue for example. Then paint the pit walls and floor white and make sure the pit is lit.
Then always employ a rigid routine/check system while the boards are up; third parties who may be unaware of the hazard need a visual warning sign in place on entry to the garage.
It's possible to do a vast amount of damage to yourself that way.
Thus in order to mitigate the risk, I would paint a yellow line around the edge of the pit and paint the pit boards blue for example. Then paint the pit walls and floor white and make sure the pit is lit.
Then always employ a rigid routine/check system while the boards are up; third parties who may be unaware of the hazard need a visual warning sign in place on entry to the garage.
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