Engine oil for ‘B’ series
Discussion
First engine oil and filter change for the magnette, I will use a classic 20/50 and note that Halfords own brand offers seemingly good value. Good as any?
My cars manual tells me sae 30 but things have improved since then and I see no reason. or to use the 20/50 grade.
My cars manual tells me sae 30 but things have improved since then and I see no reason. or to use the 20/50 grade.
Edited by crankedup on Friday 6th April 11:45
Why does it need to be so much thicker? They're recommending a 30, and you're looking at a 50. That's going to mean a lot higher oil pressure hot, which could well cause seal problems.
It's a bit thinner cold than their recommendation - 20 instead of 30 - but that's no bad thing - easier pumping round from a cold start. Remember that a cold 20 is a lot thicker than even a hot 50.
Straight grade oils are always a balancing act between cold treacle and hot water, which is exactly what multigrades work around - but there's certainly no need to go SO much heavier. 20w50 has got stuck in people's heads because it was the first really common multigrade, back in the 70s - no more than that.
I'd just be reaching for the normal 10w40 or 15w40. No reason to be stuck on mineral rather than semi, either. Opie give a good choice at good prices - especially when you get a c.10% discount code from a club or get their common 15%+ discount mailers.
Mineral 20w50 is mostly an overpriced triumph of "classic" marketing - or cheap rubbish aimed at just keeping the oil pressure light off in a s
tter that's one bill from the scrappy.
It's a bit thinner cold than their recommendation - 20 instead of 30 - but that's no bad thing - easier pumping round from a cold start. Remember that a cold 20 is a lot thicker than even a hot 50.
Straight grade oils are always a balancing act between cold treacle and hot water, which is exactly what multigrades work around - but there's certainly no need to go SO much heavier. 20w50 has got stuck in people's heads because it was the first really common multigrade, back in the 70s - no more than that.
I'd just be reaching for the normal 10w40 or 15w40. No reason to be stuck on mineral rather than semi, either. Opie give a good choice at good prices - especially when you get a c.10% discount code from a club or get their common 15%+ discount mailers.
Mineral 20w50 is mostly an overpriced triumph of "classic" marketing - or cheap rubbish aimed at just keeping the oil pressure light off in a s
tter that's one bill from the scrappy.Thanks for input 2cv.
TBH I thought that the old single grade oils were a bit old school with zero detergents. By upgrading to a classic oil would benefit the engine with the modern mixing of elements in the oil. The car is. 1958 version so just on the cusp of multigrades. But I do appreciate your experience and I will certainly look again and do some reading. Will also appreciate other inputs of thoughts for interest.
To add, I will be towing a vintage caravan with the car sometimes, it’s lightweight at around 600kg. Also mainly Summer use only for the car.
I’ve looked up opie oils and they recommend a 20/50
TBH I thought that the old single grade oils were a bit old school with zero detergents. By upgrading to a classic oil would benefit the engine with the modern mixing of elements in the oil. The car is. 1958 version so just on the cusp of multigrades. But I do appreciate your experience and I will certainly look again and do some reading. Will also appreciate other inputs of thoughts for interest.
To add, I will be towing a vintage caravan with the car sometimes, it’s lightweight at around 600kg. Also mainly Summer use only for the car.
I’ve looked up opie oils and they recommend a 20/50
Edited by crankedup on Friday 6th April 12:44
Providing your engine is not newly rebuilt with finer than original tolerances 20W50 mineral is the oil grade/type to use. And don't listen to anyone else who says a lighter oil is okay as your engine wear will increase significantly. Many older engine guys use Valvoline VR1 20W50, it's a very good quality oil, but bog standard Halfords Classic 20W50 is fine, especially if the car's only covering small annual mileage.
PS if your SU's are running a little rich give them a good tune as the over fuelling results in fuel washdown into the oil, this is particularly relevant with infrequent use and short journeys.
PS if your SU's are running a little rich give them a good tune as the over fuelling results in fuel washdown into the oil, this is particularly relevant with infrequent use and short journeys.
v8250 said:
Providing your engine is not newly rebuilt with finer than original tolerances 20W50 mineral is the oil grade/type to use. And don't listen to anyone else who says a lighter oil is okay as your engine wear will increase significantly.
Even the straight 30 that always used to be just fine...?Thank you all, good to get several opinions and appreciated. Had another look at my manual and near the back I found a table of oils to use in differing climatic conditions. Nearest to our U.K. conditions they say 20/40 oil, in colder conditions a 30 grade.
Just purchased a gallon of Techtrade 20/50 brewed for classic car engines.
Just purchased a gallon of Techtrade 20/50 brewed for classic car engines.
Mercky said:
imagineifyeswill said:
I served my time in a BL dealer ship in the seventies, all A series ,B series, C series and E series engines and all we used was 20w50 in all of them.
Thats all they had then.Been putting it in my MGB engine for the last 46 years and 120,000 miles and never ever had an oil related problem with the engine
Don't believe all the doom mongers on here.
I use Castrol XL when I find it at a reasonable price and can buy four cans at a time, but if not it is down to Halfords and their 20/50. £20 the five litres is fine by me; and don't laugh - over here I can sell the tins on as collectables!
If you need something specific by the way, I have always found these people very helpful and good prices
https://www.classic-oils.net/
If you need something specific by the way, I have always found these people very helpful and good prices
https://www.classic-oils.net/
I think a key consideration is the ZDDP content of the oil. If you use a modern oil then it would be a good idea use a ZDDP additive. Any oil marketed for classics should have a high content already. I've used Millers 20W50 in all my classics after I was recommended it about 8 years ago, so far I've had no issues. I used Duckhams Q classic or Halfords classic before that, both look very similar. The appearance and smell of the oil when changed has always been better with Millers in my opinion, but I realise that is far from a scientific analysis.
Crosswise said:
I think a key consideration is the ZDDP content of the oil. If you use a modern oil then it would be a good idea use a ZDDP additive. Any oil marketed for classics should have a high content already. I've used Millers 20W50 in all my classics after I was recommended it about 8 years ago, so far I've had no issues. I used Duckhams Q classic or Halfords classic before that, both look very similar. The appearance and smell of the oil when changed has always been better with Millers in my opinion, but I realise that is far from a scientific analysis.
Exactually.Huntsman said:
Isn't the bigger issue that modern oils even in 20W50 grade do not have enough zinc in for the old flat tappets?
Some great advise and leads, thank you to all contributors.I read the blurb on my newly purchased 20/50 ‘Techtrade’ oil. It .specifically states that the brew contains extra zinc to cater for classic engines. The oil itself was very inexpensive at only £15 a gallon. I didn’t buy it for that reason though I am thinking it’s at reduced price entering the market as a new brand perhaps?
My XK engine gave sterling service for 100,000 miles on whatever was to hand, mostly using Castrol XL which was readily available, but basically if I was short of oil anything would do. it was still only using a pint per 1,000 when I had it rebuilt in 2014. The XKSS engine is the same, but has looser tolerances and uses 1 litre per 1,000 so I don't change the oil so often because it changes itself!
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