Where's my coolant?
Discussion
So as mentioned in a couple of places on here, I have just become the custodian of a 1960 Vauxhall Victor. Unfortunately I have had a few issues so far. Mainly to do with cooling. I seem to be loosing coolant, having had to top up all three times I've tried to go any distance.
Every time I check in the radiator I can see the top of the vanes. If I top it up to the level in the workshop manual and warm the engine up, as soon as the thermostat kicks in it will dump a load of coolant. Out of the cap and overflow pipe. Even if the system is bled properly.
I can't see a leak. My garage floor stains for days so I would be able to see if anything was coming out.
This leads me to think head gasket but I've no oil in the coolant, and the oil isn't emulsified, I really need to pressure test the cooling system (the heater matrix already split and sprayed me with coolant, I've bypassed that for now!)
I'm new to classics and specialise in electronics so fault finding a cooling system is a new one to me, any advice would be appreciated!
Every time I check in the radiator I can see the top of the vanes. If I top it up to the level in the workshop manual and warm the engine up, as soon as the thermostat kicks in it will dump a load of coolant. Out of the cap and overflow pipe. Even if the system is bled properly.
I can't see a leak. My garage floor stains for days so I would be able to see if anything was coming out.
This leads me to think head gasket but I've no oil in the coolant, and the oil isn't emulsified, I really need to pressure test the cooling system (the heater matrix already split and sprayed me with coolant, I've bypassed that for now!)
I'm new to classics and specialise in electronics so fault finding a cooling system is a new one to me, any advice would be appreciated!
You can get the coolant dumping symptom from a dodgy radiator cap. If the spring is tired it lets go at too low a pressure and coolant escapes as you describe via the overflow.
It's worth a try as the probable alternative is a fair bit more expensive. Blow through from a leaking head gasket could be pressurising the coolant in the block. So when the stat opens the pressure in the rad spikes briefly and coolant escapes.
Good luck!
It's worth a try as the probable alternative is a fair bit more expensive. Blow through from a leaking head gasket could be pressurising the coolant in the block. So when the stat opens the pressure in the rad spikes briefly and coolant escapes.
Good luck!
Sounds like an air lock to me… if coolant can’t circulate properly, all kinds of weird and wonderful things can happen.
Start with the basics.
Go online and find out the coolant capacity of your car.
With the engine cold, drain the existing coolant (what’s left, anyway!) and dispose of properly. Make sure the heater is set to hot as this will allow any coolant trapped in the heater matrix to escape. If there is a drain plug on the engine block open this. Be careful though: they are normally fragile and will break if you attempt to force it.
Now, slowly fill the system (pint a time) with your new coolant until the correct amount is in there.
Start the engine. If your car has an expansion tank, leave the cap off. If not, leave the radiator cap off.
After the engine has warmed up a bit, the thermostat will open. You’ll know when as you see coolant being circulated by the water pump if you peer into the radiator/expansion tank.
This is the important bit: leave the engine running and keep squeezing all the rubber hoses you can find until you see no air bubbles coming out (watch your fingers on the rad fan). You’ve bled radiators in your house before? Exactly the same principle.
If you’re lucky, there will be a bleed valve somewhere on your radiator. If there is, use this rather than the method described above. Make sure the engine is up to temp before you use the valve though as you want a bit of pressure in the system.
It might be a failed HG, dodgy rad cap or similar that’s causing your issues, but IME it’s wise to start with the simple, cheap and easy things first.
Good luck and let us know how you get on.
Top tip: if you suspect a minor coolant leak, take your car out at night, get the engine nice and warm and pop the bonnet. Get a good torch and shine it around the engine bay with the motor running – the beam of light makes it a lot easier to find small leaks which may be escaping as a really fine spray.
Start with the basics.
Go online and find out the coolant capacity of your car.
With the engine cold, drain the existing coolant (what’s left, anyway!) and dispose of properly. Make sure the heater is set to hot as this will allow any coolant trapped in the heater matrix to escape. If there is a drain plug on the engine block open this. Be careful though: they are normally fragile and will break if you attempt to force it.
Now, slowly fill the system (pint a time) with your new coolant until the correct amount is in there.
Start the engine. If your car has an expansion tank, leave the cap off. If not, leave the radiator cap off.
After the engine has warmed up a bit, the thermostat will open. You’ll know when as you see coolant being circulated by the water pump if you peer into the radiator/expansion tank.
This is the important bit: leave the engine running and keep squeezing all the rubber hoses you can find until you see no air bubbles coming out (watch your fingers on the rad fan). You’ve bled radiators in your house before? Exactly the same principle.
If you’re lucky, there will be a bleed valve somewhere on your radiator. If there is, use this rather than the method described above. Make sure the engine is up to temp before you use the valve though as you want a bit of pressure in the system.
It might be a failed HG, dodgy rad cap or similar that’s causing your issues, but IME it’s wise to start with the simple, cheap and easy things first.
Good luck and let us know how you get on.
Top tip: if you suspect a minor coolant leak, take your car out at night, get the engine nice and warm and pop the bonnet. Get a good torch and shine it around the engine bay with the motor running – the beam of light makes it a lot easier to find small leaks which may be escaping as a really fine spray.
Keep it stiff said:
Water pump? I was losing water from one of my cars only when driving, like you nothing on the garage floor, the only clue was residue on the underside of the bonnet.
When I bought my Landie, the seller thought it had a duff head gasket. What was actually happening was that the water pump was leaking but only when hot, leaving no telltale puddles when parked up.Unless you're aware of the service history of the car and have been told that the block water jacket bung has been removed on a regular basis I wouldn't touch it. Otherwise you are just likely to create another problem.
Make sure that the coolling system consists of the right components, two most obvious being the rad and the thermostat. It wouldn't be the first time that someone has cut corners on a car that they're selling.
I would drain and flush/reverse flush the rad and the block first make sure you have clear water going in both directions and check the temp of the thermostat and make sure the jiggle pin is free.
Make sure that the coolling system consists of the right components, two most obvious being the rad and the thermostat. It wouldn't be the first time that someone has cut corners on a car that they're selling.
I would drain and flush/reverse flush the rad and the block first make sure you have clear water going in both directions and check the temp of the thermostat and make sure the jiggle pin is free.
Right, just thought I'd update you to thank you all for posting! I've chased through some of your suggestions and found a couple of issues. I'd swapped the thermostat out recently, the old one had a jiggle pin to aid bleeding, this one didn't add to the fact I probably didnt bleed it properly means I'm fairly sure an air lock caused the dumping.
As to where my coolant goes I was being more picky about my measuring. I've been checking the level daily and I am losing it while the car is parked. I've discovered a rust hole, the water drips but very slowly and under pressure mists to steam.
Now to fix the rad and refill and bleed the system properly!
As to where my coolant goes I was being more picky about my measuring. I've been checking the level daily and I am losing it while the car is parked. I've discovered a rust hole, the water drips but very slowly and under pressure mists to steam.
Now to fix the rad and refill and bleed the system properly!
texaxile said:
Couldn't coolant be escaping through the exhaust port, burning off so no residue?. You would probably see white smoke if there was a lot of it going out, but I had the same issue with a pug 106 years ago and it turned out be that.
You had a Pug,106yrs ago?How old are you?texaxile said:
Couldn't coolant be escaping through the exhaust port, burning off so no residue?. You would probably see white smoke if there was a lot of it going out, but I had the same issue with a pug 106 years ago and it turned out be that.
You had a Pug,106yrs ago?How old are you?Gassing Station | Classic Cars and Yesterday's Heroes | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff