Capri Part-Restoration
Discussion
In a previous post "The Reality of Restoration Costs" I'd mentioned that I wanted to get some work done on my Capri.
Work has now started on the first batch of repairs - Strut tops, inner wing, slam panel, headlamp bowls, a-pillars and rear floor where the spring hangers attach. Some pictures posted show the scale of the repairs........Starting with the nearside front suspension strut top. Pictures show how the car looked before starting, what was hidden and the used V6 Capri inner wing grafted in to replace the mess that was there.
Work has now started on the first batch of repairs - Strut tops, inner wing, slam panel, headlamp bowls, a-pillars and rear floor where the spring hangers attach. Some pictures posted show the scale of the repairs........Starting with the nearside front suspension strut top. Pictures show how the car looked before starting, what was hidden and the used V6 Capri inner wing grafted in to replace the mess that was there.
Edited by j4r4lly on Monday 1st April 16:06
neutral 3 said:
aeropilot said:
Curious as to why they didn't use all of the used inner wing panel down to the chassis leg....?
As above!The engine is still in the car and would have had to come out....... time and cost.
The lower wings and chassis legs are grubby but totally solid, so OK to go again once they've been cleaned up and then stoneguard applied.
Cut off the full inner wings and the car needs to go on a jig and be re-alligned which again, comes back to time and cost.
I want the car back for the end of April so time (and of course money) is of the essence.
I'll post more images as they come through. Still working on the offside inner wing at the moment and then moving on to the A-pillars and adjacent bulkhead/floor. Surprisingly, the outer A-pillars are in good shape and it's only really where they meet with floor and inner panels that things have gone somewhat scabby. Repairs here may not be as big a job as was estimated......... unlike the rear floor/spring hanger area, which looks really rather nasty, particularly on the offside.
j4r4lly said:
neutral 3 said:
aeropilot said:
Curious as to why they didn't use all of the used inner wing panel down to the chassis leg....?
As above!The engine is still in the car and would have had to come out....... time and cost.
The lower wings and chassis legs are grubby but totally solid, so OK to go again once they've been cleaned up and then stoneguard applied.
Cut off the full inner wings and the car needs to go on a jig and be re-alligned which again, comes back to time and cost.
I want the car back for the end of April so time (and of course money) is of the essence.
Personally I think that structurally speaking, that's not a repair method that would sit happily with me....a bodge too far for my tastes.
aeropilot said:
I would never compromise the job for time (my restoration project was estimated at taking 2 years, its now been 4...!)
Personally I think that structurally speaking, that's not a repair method that would sit happily with me....a bodge too far for my tastes.
Hardly a bodge in my opinion. Considering the state it was in after 36 years on the road, it will be in an incomparably better condition and last for many more years to come. Some of the previous repair plating was 5 layers thick, so the repair carried out addresses all that and is a sensible compromise.Personally I think that structurally speaking, that's not a repair method that would sit happily with me....a bodge too far for my tastes.
I want it back on the road as a solid, usable car and don't want it gone for years at vast expense and then be too worried to use it.
It's a Ford Capri after all, not an Aston Martin DB4 or similar.
aeropilot said:
I would never compromise the job for time (my restoration project was estimated at taking 2 years, its now been 4...!)
Personally I think that structurally speaking, that's not a repair method that would sit happily with me....a bodge too far for my tastes.
How is it any different to any other welding job, such as welding in new sills? Sure it's a big patch, but done well it's hardly a bodge. Some cars barely have any original metal left in them.Personally I think that structurally speaking, that's not a repair method that would sit happily with me....a bodge too far for my tastes.
samj2014 said:
aeropilot said:
I would never compromise the job for time (my restoration project was estimated at taking 2 years, its now been 4...!)
Personally I think that structurally speaking, that's not a repair method that would sit happily with me....a bodge too far for my tastes.
How is it any different to any other welding job, such as welding in new sills? Sure it's a big patch, but done well it's hardly a bodge. Some cars barely have any original metal left in them.Personally I think that structurally speaking, that's not a repair method that would sit happily with me....a bodge too far for my tastes.
I've done similar things many times in the past, and if welded and dressed properly, in my view the more original sound metal you can leave in the better.
j4r4lly said:
Hardly a bodge in my opinion. Considering the state it was in after 36 years on the road, it will be in an incomparably better condition and last for many more years to come. Some of the previous repair plating was 5 layers thick, so the repair carried out addresses all that and is a sensible compromise.
I want it back on the road as a solid, usable car and don't want it gone for years at vast expense and then be too worried to use it.
It's a Ford Capri after all, not an Aston Martin DB4 or similar.
used to take the Essex lumps out all the time in the drive easier to remove engine gearbox combinedI want it back on the road as a solid, usable car and don't want it gone for years at vast expense and then be too worried to use it.
It's a Ford Capri after all, not an Aston Martin DB4 or similar.
engine out with gearbox ,x6 cross member bolts , x2 for gearbox mounting plate , drop the prop , exhaust manifolds clutch cable rad etc
then you can really have space to work around the front engine bay ....I don't think anyone was being critical of your rebuild but from an intergral structural point of view , I would have dropped out engine gearbox ...about 3 hrs work , and rebuilt with full panels ,,imo
going to be nice once you have her finished , good luck
cheers
Really think you need to take the engine out - gives you much more room to work and of course it allows you to clean and paint the engine too. Maybe drop the box off and fit a new clutch. All jobs you can do in less time than it takes for the skilled welding work. But at the end of the day its your car and your choice. Maybe I have lost the plot over the cost of using someone to do the work professionally - I do all resto work my self bar the outer paint work.
I agree, it’s such a shame to see corners being cut on such a great car.
Removing the engine to do the job properly shouldn’t add an awful lot on to this job time (and money) wise and would make all the difference.
From those photos I would have serious concerns as to what else was being missed.
If you’re going to the extent of restoring a car there’s only one way to go...... Do it once, do it right!
Removing the engine to do the job properly shouldn’t add an awful lot on to this job time (and money) wise and would make all the difference.
From those photos I would have serious concerns as to what else was being missed.
If you’re going to the extent of restoring a car there’s only one way to go...... Do it once, do it right!
DBSV8 said:
used to take the Essex lumps out all the time in the drive easier to remove engine gearbox combined
engine out with gearbox ,x6 cross member bolts , x2 for gearbox mounting plate , drop the prop , exhaust manifolds clutch cable rad etc
then you can really have space to work around the front engine bay ....I don't think anyone was being critical of your rebuild but from an intergral structural point of view , I would have dropped out engine gearbox ...about 3 hrs work , and rebuilt with full panels ,,imo
Yep, in nearly 40 years of dabbling in McP strut equipped old Fords, I've never seen anyone think its a good idea to horizontally cut an inner wing below the strut top given the load paths in that panel, when as you say, drop the whole lot out, jig, new panels, drop the whole lot back in, lift up. Even if you didn't want to strip/disassemble the front suspension, its easy to just disconnect the column from the rack, undo the crossmember bolts and struts tops, and drop the whole lot out as one unit. Also, gives you a hint as to the state of the inside of the front chassis legs when trying to remove the cross member/ARB mount bolts engine out with gearbox ,x6 cross member bolts , x2 for gearbox mounting plate , drop the prop , exhaust manifolds clutch cable rad etc
then you can really have space to work around the front engine bay ....I don't think anyone was being critical of your rebuild but from an intergral structural point of view , I would have dropped out engine gearbox ...about 3 hrs work , and rebuilt with full panels ,,imo
Not my car though.
The same old conundrum always applies. To restore or not to restore? In your heart you know you love the car, but at the same time you know that once things come apart the cost is always going to be higher than you originally estimated. In fact you already knew this but carefully avoided confronting it, all the while hoping against hope you are wrong. But still you go ahead.
This is not a criticism since I have now restored my car twice, once in 1987 and again in 2013, having covered north of 100,000 miles. Due to considerably greater knowledge and connections the second rebuild came in on - if not under - budget, but when I look at the overall cost of running the car over over 30 years, despite the increases in value, I am probably out of pocket. But then, who cares? The miles and miles of smiles, the friendships made, the great times had by all - this is what it is all about.
So, keep on posting and we are all behind you, looking forward to seeing the finished photos. And the very best of luck.
This is not a criticism since I have now restored my car twice, once in 1987 and again in 2013, having covered north of 100,000 miles. Due to considerably greater knowledge and connections the second rebuild came in on - if not under - budget, but when I look at the overall cost of running the car over over 30 years, despite the increases in value, I am probably out of pocket. But then, who cares? The miles and miles of smiles, the friendships made, the great times had by all - this is what it is all about.
So, keep on posting and we are all behind you, looking forward to seeing the finished photos. And the very best of luck.
DBSV8 said:
used to take the Essex lumps out all the time in the drive easier to remove engine gearbox combined
engine out with gearbox ,x6 cross member bolts , x2 for gearbox mounting plate , drop the prop , exhaust manifolds clutch cable rad etc
then you can really have space to work around the front engine bay ....I don't think anyone was being critical of your rebuild but from an intergral structural point of view , I would have dropped out engine gearbox ...about 3 hrs work , and rebuilt with full panels ,,imo
going to be nice once you have her finished , good luck
cheers
Maybe, but the OP has a 2.8i so it's a Cologne V6 not an Essex V6! engine out with gearbox ,x6 cross member bolts , x2 for gearbox mounting plate , drop the prop , exhaust manifolds clutch cable rad etc
then you can really have space to work around the front engine bay ....I don't think anyone was being critical of your rebuild but from an intergral structural point of view , I would have dropped out engine gearbox ...about 3 hrs work , and rebuilt with full panels ,,imo
going to be nice once you have her finished , good luck
cheers
Still I'm looking forward to the end result regardless.
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