Moving condensor to outside the dizzy?
Moving condensor to outside the dizzy?
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Discussion

Huntsman

Original Poster:

9,026 posts

271 months

Wednesday 8th September 2021
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I fitted a new condensor yesterday and today it failed...Brill!

On my car, its really a dizzy out job to change it, that requires setting the timing again, bit of a faff!

Is there any reason why I cant fit the condensor external to the dizzy? All I have to is secure it to ground by the tag on the end, fit a spade terminal on the wire and plug onto the terminal on the HT coil with the points wire.

I could have a spare sat there ready.

A breakdown becomes a 1 min stop.

We used to do this on Lambrettas in the 80's using Yamaha YPVS twin condensors.



markymarkthree

3,266 posts

192 months

Wednesday 8th September 2021
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The Mk3 Cortina with a Bosch dizzy setup had it on the outside as std so i cant see why not.

spikeyhead

19,504 posts

218 months

Wednesday 8th September 2021
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Working solely with a knowledge of physics, the further away from the points to the condenser the quicker the points will wear. Possibly not at a fast enough rate to cause problems, but worth keeping an eye on it.

TonyRPH

13,438 posts

189 months

Wednesday 8th September 2021
quotequote all
As long as there is a good connection, there should be no issue with this.

An additional short piece of wire of the same gauge won't make any difference to the operation of it.


Carnage

889 posts

253 months

Thursday 9th September 2021
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I’ve done that with my Alfa GTV for the last five years. Relocated it to above the coil and took a feed directly from it.

Before then condensers failed annually, not had an issue since.

Nyloc20

794 posts

84 months

Friday 10th September 2021
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My mechanic mate did this on a friend’s Elan Sprint a while ago and it’s been trouble free. I’m going to have the same done on mine next time it’s in for service.

Huntsman

Original Poster:

9,026 posts

271 months

Saturday 11th September 2021
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fourfoldroot

657 posts

176 months

Saturday 11th September 2021
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You could always convert it to contactless using an accuspark kit. This does away with the condenser and has other benefits. Costs around £35 which is not much more than the condenser you linked to above.

coetzeeh

2,871 posts

257 months

Saturday 11th September 2021
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Moving to electronic ignition makes so much sense. Not the cheapest option but I fitted 123 dizzy set up and it almost feels odd for a 55 year old Alfa with 4 carbs to start instantaneously. All the usual ignition worries goes away.

markymarkthree

3,266 posts

192 months

Saturday 11th September 2021
quotequote all
coetzeeh said:
Moving to electronic ignition makes so much sense. Not the cheapest option but I fitted 123 dizzy set up and it almost feels odd for a 55 year old Alfa with 4 carbs to start instantaneously. All the usual ignition worries goes away.
Fine until it lets you down and you probably don't carry a spare set-up with you.
Eg.
1976 IOM TT week, running a Lucas Rita system on my BSA Rocket 3. It failed and i had the pleasure of AA Relay from Douglas to Bristol.

5 years ago, Stealth Agrospark rotor arm failed in Cornwall on my Mk3 Cortina, i got son to post me a points & condenser set-up and refitted that, with Agrospark going in the bin. I now carry a spare points and condensor.


fourfoldroot

657 posts

176 months

Saturday 11th September 2021
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I keep the original points,condenser etc and instructions in a bag stashed in the car. Simple enough to change back with just a screwdriver.

tapkaJohnD

2,000 posts

225 months

Saturday 11th September 2021
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The ONLY function of the condensor is to prolong the life of the points, from about 1000 miles to 6K+.
And a condesnor fails in two ways - it ceases to condense, whereupon the ponyts wear faster, or they conduct, which will short circuit the points and bring you to a halt.
But then, just removing the condensor will get you home. Unless you have driven to Constantinople.

No need to carry spare condensors!
John