I just bought a Frogeye to restore!
Discussion
No idea why, don't really have the time, just fancied a new project. 
Just popped on here for some sympathy for the months (probably years) of grazed knuckles, burnt hands and frustration ahead.
I had one when I was 18, but sold it when I went to Uni, then wished I hadn't.
What I have noticed is a lot of the old hard to find parts are now being remanufactured, which is great news, it should make life a lot easier.
Pics to follow when I get home in a couple of weeks!
Just popped on here for some sympathy for the months (probably years) of grazed knuckles, burnt hands and frustration ahead.
I had one when I was 18, but sold it when I went to Uni, then wished I hadn't.
What I have noticed is a lot of the old hard to find parts are now being remanufactured, which is great news, it should make life a lot easier.
Pics to follow when I get home in a couple of weeks!
It's worth joining the Midget & Sprite Club to get a feel of what's happening on the spridget scene. I got back into Frogeyes in '98 and was absolutely amazed at parts availability, which beats all current vehicle manufacturers into a cocked hat. The real question you need to decide, at the outset is, 'what spec do I want to build it to'? You can keep it bog standard at 43BHP and a 948cc engine,or, up to 120BHP and 1430cc, or, up to 200BHP with a 'K' series. Keep the 4speed or mod to 5 speed gear box (Ford).Etc, etc. Once you get it finished and on the road you will find you have a permanent grin from ear to ear each time you drive it, thats what driving was supposed to be about when it was made. You'll also be very surprised at who gives you the thumbs up these days, (bikers especially).
Best of luck with the project, by the way you'll need AF spanners!!!!
Best of luck with the project, by the way you'll need AF spanners!!!!
Was that the one on e-bay ? If so I was watching that, but didn't bid as I've no space to restore it at the minute. I did one some years ago, but I sold it and have regretted it ever since. Most parts are now available so you shouldn't have too many problems (except the usual scraped knuckles). Good luck, I look forward to the pictures.
Steve
Steve
you'll also find lots of help and info here - http://www2.mgcars.org.uk/cgi-bin/gen5?runprog=mgb...
and this is an excellent book for info and originality about to be reprinted - http://www.amazon.co.uk/Original-Sprite-Midget-Res...
and this is an excellent book for info and originality about to be reprinted - http://www.amazon.co.uk/Original-Sprite-Midget-Res...
sparkey said:
Was that the one on e-bay ? If so I was watching that, but didn't bid as I've no space to restore it at the minute. I did one some years ago, but I sold it and have regretted it ever since. Most parts are now available so you shouldn't have too many problems (except the usual scraped knuckles). Good luck, I look forward to the pictures.
Steve
Steve
It was the ebay one from earlier tonight. I think (hope) I got a bargain!
I have a fair few tools already, looking to buy one of those single sided spot welders (that runs from an arc welder) which looks like it'll make the job easier.
Going to need a compressor ,engine lifter, and a load more bits before the job is through.
Off to look for AF spanners now, I hadn't thought of that yet!
na said:
you'll also find lots of help and info here - http://www2.mgcars.org.uk/cgi-bin/gen5?runprog=mgb...
and this is an excellent book for info and originality about to be reprinted - http://www.amazon.co.uk/Original-Sprite-Midget-Res...
Will take a further look at the forum later, but I already have the book (the 1998 edition!), suffice to say it'll be coming out as soon as I get home!and this is an excellent book for info and originality about to be reprinted - http://www.amazon.co.uk/Original-Sprite-Midget-Res...
5Valve said:
It's worth joining the Midget & Sprite Club to get a feel of what's happening on the spridget scene. I got back into Frogeyes in '98 and was absolutely amazed at parts availability, which beats all current vehicle manufacturers into a cocked hat. The real question you need to decide, at the outset is, 'what spec do I want to build it to'? You can keep it bog standard at 43BHP and a 948cc engine,or, up to 120BHP and 1430cc, or, up to 200BHP with a 'K' series. Keep the 4speed or mod to 5 speed gear box (Ford).Etc, etc. Once you get it finished and on the road you will find you have a permanent grin from ear to ear each time you drive it, thats what driving was supposed to be about when it was made. You'll also be very surprised at who gives you the thumbs up these days, (bikers especially).
Best of luck with the project, by the way you'll need AF spanners!!!!
Not sure about engines. I have seen an excellent conversion that uses the MX5 engine, which would be perfect, but would also ruin a nice original car. I think I'd be happy to go with the standard, or a slightly modified engine.Best of luck with the project, by the way you'll need AF spanners!!!!
I'm lucky, if I want to hoon around, I have the maser for speed, my mx5 track car for fun twistys, so this will just be for fun. I have no real interest in driving it quickly (as if that would ever be possible).
The most I might do is a more vicious cam, ported head, and larger SUs, so a bit more power without spoiling the look or feel too much.
I have a stack of bodywork to do first though, which I'm actually quite looking forward to.
As for grinning, I'm doing that already, and it's not even here yet!
maser_spyder said:
but I already have the book (the 1998 edition!), suffice to say it'll be coming out as soon as I get home!
it was being sold for up to £90 unsigned and £140 signed - until this reprint that is - I gave my copy away when I sold my previous Spridget so am rebuying this reprint after 2o years and it cheaper to buy new now let alone allowing for inflation - who'd 've thunk it 20 year ago na said:
maser_spyder said:
but I already have the book (the 1998 edition!), suffice to say it'll be coming out as soon as I get home!
it was being sold for up to £90 unsigned and £140 signed - until this reprint that is - I gave my copy away when I sold my previous Spridget so am rebuying this reprint after 2o years and it cheaper to buy new now let alone allowing for inflation - who'd 've thunk it 20 year ago It's not really the sort of book I expected to go out of print,I just assumed it would pretty much always be on sale.
Quotes for transport are coming in slightly less than expected, for what's being asked to move it, it's hardly worth hiring a trailer and doing it myself. God bless shiply.com!
I had a frogeye back in the 60's did all sorts of motor sport with it. The engine had a special crank (red crank) 998 Cooper rods and pistons, a modified Cooper S head, 649 cam, balanced and lightened, two 1.5" SU's. Reved to 8500 and with a post office van diff (12.5 mph per 000 revs) went like a rocket. Stick with the 948! quote=maser_spyder]
I'm lucky, if I want to hoon around, I have the maser for speed, my mx5 track car for fun twistys, so this will just be for fun. I have no real interest in driving it quickly (as if that would ever be possible).
The most I might do is a more vicious cam, ported head, and larger SUs, so a bit more power without spoiling the look or feel too much.
I have a stack of bodywork to do first though, which I'm actually quite looking forward to.
As for grinning, I'm doing that already, and it's not even here yet!
5Valve said:
It's worth joining the Midget & Sprite Club to get a feel of what's happening on the spridget scene. I got back into Frogeyes in '98 and was absolutely amazed at parts availability, which beats all current vehicle manufacturers into a cocked hat. The real question you need to decide, at the outset is, 'what spec do I want to build it to'? You can keep it bog standard at 43BHP and a 948cc engine,or, up to 120BHP and 1430cc, or, up to 200BHP with a 'K' series. Keep the 4speed or mod to 5 speed gear box (Ford).Etc, etc. Once you get it finished and on the road you will find you have a permanent grin from ear to ear each time you drive it, thats what driving was supposed to be about when it was made. You'll also be very surprised at who gives you the thumbs up these days, (bikers especially).
Best of luck with the project, by the way you'll need AF spanners!!!!
Not sure about engines. I have seen an excellent conversion that uses the MX5 engine, which would be perfect, but would also ruin a nice original car. I think I'd be happy to go with the standard, or a slightly modified engine.Best of luck with the project, by the way you'll need AF spanners!!!!
I'm lucky, if I want to hoon around, I have the maser for speed, my mx5 track car for fun twistys, so this will just be for fun. I have no real interest in driving it quickly (as if that would ever be possible).
The most I might do is a more vicious cam, ported head, and larger SUs, so a bit more power without spoiling the look or feel too much.
I have a stack of bodywork to do first though, which I'm actually quite looking forward to.
As for grinning, I'm doing that already, and it's not even here yet!
Well done winning a Sprite
I doubt you will regret it
My mate garyfrogeye (A PH member) has a stonking quick one with about 1380 or 1430cc A series in it and it storms along, all the fun of power with agility to knock you mental.
His Frog is a little faster than my Midget but buggermesideays, on track days at Marham he snakes through the corners, even the tightass hairpin, at unbelieveable velocity. The twin trailing arm rear end just runs where he wants it.
I think you will have a great time in it
Congrats
(Oh yes AF spanners and consider the five speed gearbox options, my 1293cc Midget storms along at 110 mph given a free road, Gary's Sprite too
)
I doubt you will regret it
My mate garyfrogeye (A PH member) has a stonking quick one with about 1380 or 1430cc A series in it and it storms along, all the fun of power with agility to knock you mental.
His Frog is a little faster than my Midget but buggermesideays, on track days at Marham he snakes through the corners, even the tightass hairpin, at unbelieveable velocity. The twin trailing arm rear end just runs where he wants it.
I think you will have a great time in it
Congrats
(Oh yes AF spanners and consider the five speed gearbox options, my 1293cc Midget storms along at 110 mph given a free road, Gary's Sprite too
)Right then chaps, what do we think of;
www.surfaceprocessing.co.uk
It looks and appears to be the entirely sensible way of restoring a car that's not too bad with bodywork.
Initial acid dip and neutralise gets a completely bare shell.
Take this away, do all bodywork, repairs, etc. with new panels.
Return to them for a re-dip to clear surface rust.
Cathodic primer to get in to all the box sections, nooks and crannies.
Fill/final repairs where required, paint, and re-fit.
It's not desperately cheap, but would leave me with a car that's never likely to go rusty again (certainly not quickly), and a good, clean shell to do the repairs to, without fighting layers of old paint and underseal. Having a completely bare shell must make the welding much easier?
I have a warm, dry workshop, so not worried about the surface rust that will develop post-acid dip.
I have a rolling spit-type jig on order, which should make the bodywork more straightforward.
I'm not looking for a cheap restoration, more a complete and thorough job, that'll stand the test of time.
Anybody done this before?
www.surfaceprocessing.co.uk
It looks and appears to be the entirely sensible way of restoring a car that's not too bad with bodywork.
Initial acid dip and neutralise gets a completely bare shell.
Take this away, do all bodywork, repairs, etc. with new panels.
Return to them for a re-dip to clear surface rust.
Cathodic primer to get in to all the box sections, nooks and crannies.
Fill/final repairs where required, paint, and re-fit.
It's not desperately cheap, but would leave me with a car that's never likely to go rusty again (certainly not quickly), and a good, clean shell to do the repairs to, without fighting layers of old paint and underseal. Having a completely bare shell must make the welding much easier?
I have a warm, dry workshop, so not worried about the surface rust that will develop post-acid dip.
I have a rolling spit-type jig on order, which should make the bodywork more straightforward.
I'm not looking for a cheap restoration, more a complete and thorough job, that'll stand the test of time.
Anybody done this before?
maser_spyder said:
I'd love to know the cost of this. Might be interested myself, some day.G.
Gallen said:
maser_spyder said:
I'd love to know the cost of this. Might be interested myself, some day.G.
Cathodic primer (dipped in a ruddy great tank) quoted at £1700 plus VAT, including another dip to clear surface rust.
It's expensive, but then so is stripping each panel individually in terms of time.
Gassing Station | Classic Cars and Yesterday's Heroes | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff