minimum setup to test run classic 1972 Spitfire engine

[tms996]

Just rebuilding a Mk4 1300 Spitfire and have put the engine and gearbox into the chassis to start building up. Body is off, so building the rolling chassis. Brakes, diff etc all refitted after refurb. Previous owner had part stripped a good engine which we have reassembled and are just looking at what needs replacing next.

No electrics on the car but have all the components to reassemble it. Just looking for some advice as to what is the minimum I could reattach to try turning the engine over before putting the body on?

Would like to hear it turning freely or manage a quick start up before building up more. But have not done a ground up rebuild before of a project stripped by someone else. Also would be good to check for leaks at this stage too.

I want to test a few of the components as we go, so checking the engine now would help. Carbs are going back on then I'll bolt the exhaust loosely into place. Then thinking battery, basic electric to the starter, solenoid, but could I get away with not fitting the radiator for this?

Whats the basic minimum, thanks!

[FlyVintage]

Starting for a few seconds without the cooling system is not going to be an issue, but under such circumstances I’d want to have positive verification of oil pressure (on a mechanical gauge).

[ARHarh]

All you need for a few seconds is power to the coil, a fuel supply to the carb (bottle and pipe hung above engine) and jump leads to the starter. Don't be tempted to fit a temporary seat, and test drive it up the road with no exhaust, it scares the neighbours. (don't ask how I know )

[ferret50]

Do not forget to fill sump with oil.

[tms996]

Thanks for the advice. Sump to be filled, just waiting for a new fuel pump arrive to fit. Carbs have a sheared off bolt on the lower mount, so that needs drilling out first then they can go on with with the downpipe.
Electrically, anything else?

[Steve-B]

Electrics wise I would check there’s a -0- Ohm resistance for Earths on it as lack of a good reference Earth has led many down the path to days/weeks of frustration. The other thing is making sure the right plug leads to the right cylinder and the points are properly set to the right gap.If all you’re going to do is check oil pressure for <2mins (max) not sure about not having radiator connected, provided coolant is full of right % mixture with no bubbles.

[Watcher of the skies]

Engine access is so good on a Spitfire that I wouldn't worry - just go ahead and rebuild the whole car.

[//j17]

I'd mirror what Watcher of the skies said. One of the last pieces of the puzzel you put in to place is the bonnet and until that's in place pulling/refitting the engine and gearbox is a doddle. Hell, even with the bonnet on you can do an in situ top end stripdown from a confortable seat on one front tyre or the other.

Get things built up minus carpets and interior trim and you can check all systems with clear, easy access to everything (and a handy oil pressure light so you can spin the engine with the coil disconnected until you have oil pressure).

[spitsfire]

You could always take the plugs out and spin it over by hand with a socket on the crank.

If you're going to 'test fire' it (and the engine has no oil in it), worth filling the oil filter with oil and splitting the remainder between the sump and the head so there's oil right through the engine when it first starts.

I'd be tempted to use a bit of easystart or similar into the carb mouth rather than rigging a fuel pump and reservoir - less risk of fire.

It's not going to run very happily without an exhaust and will be insanely loud. But it should run.....

Edited by spitsfire on Monday 17th February 22:09