Plumbing problems - help!
Discussion
Hello everybody 
Hoping I can get a spot of help with this.
I live in a 2nd (top) floor flat, and we've had no plumbing problems in the last 2ish years.
However, about 3 weeks ago I did a load of washing and found the floor soaked. It turned out that the drain pipe U-bend was overflowing (the pipe from the machine hooks into another pipe with a U-bend, then continues horizontally (collecting the waste pipes from sinks) and joins the main stack.
I checked the U-bend and sink traps, all appeared to be in order, and it didn't happen again. This all on the same day that next door had lots of work going on in their kitchen (on the other side of our kitchen wall) - not sure this is relevant, but would we have separate stacks or use the same one (in the corner of my kitchen).
Anyway, today, the same thing happened again. Twice. Tomorrow I'm going to get one of those flexible pipe cleaners from my local plumber's place (along with a long weight
). Any thoughts on whether it is a blockage, or perhaps height related (the pipe is about 18 inches off the ground, but well below the top of the washing machine)? Why does it happen sometimes but not others?
Problem 2 also occurred today - woman from downstairs came up complaining of water coming through the vent above her kitchen window
The (cold) feed to our washing machine is a flexible rubber pipe, and is joined with a plastic screw fitting to a valved T-piece on the copper cold water pipe. Turns out that the screw fitting was leaking like a sieve. Turned the water off, hacked the back of the kitchen cupboard away (bloke who lived here before didn't look too far ahead when he boxed all the plumbing in 
), managed to tighten the screw fitting up a little bit, which helped. I can still see the occasional spot of water forming on it but I've done what I can. Problems were: the back of the cupboard in the way, it's all plumbed really badly, no room to do anything, and none of the copper pipes are braced so they move around 
Also, the tap on the T-piece seems not to work - the tap was pointing across the top of the T (which I think is off), however the water flowed. I even switched on the washing machine, and no matter what position the tap was in the water seemed to be flowing. There's another tap in the flexible line, but that's not much use if the joint further up is leaking...
So, any ideas / solutions / advice?
My plans at the moment are :
1) keep an eye on the T-piece
2) maybe try to tighten it some more with a wrench if I can get to it
3) get dad to replace T-piece with one with tap that works next time he's down, and maybe plumb to a wall mounted tap to stop it happening again
4) get flexi-thing and stuff down waste pipe as far as main stack.
5) if washing machine keeps overflowing, tell management and mention that next door had work down in the kitchen!
Is it likely that we share the same stack?
Hoping I can get a spot of help with this.
I live in a 2nd (top) floor flat, and we've had no plumbing problems in the last 2ish years.
However, about 3 weeks ago I did a load of washing and found the floor soaked. It turned out that the drain pipe U-bend was overflowing (the pipe from the machine hooks into another pipe with a U-bend, then continues horizontally (collecting the waste pipes from sinks) and joins the main stack.
I checked the U-bend and sink traps, all appeared to be in order, and it didn't happen again. This all on the same day that next door had lots of work going on in their kitchen (on the other side of our kitchen wall) - not sure this is relevant, but would we have separate stacks or use the same one (in the corner of my kitchen).
Anyway, today, the same thing happened again. Twice. Tomorrow I'm going to get one of those flexible pipe cleaners from my local plumber's place (along with a long weight
). Any thoughts on whether it is a blockage, or perhaps height related (the pipe is about 18 inches off the ground, but well below the top of the washing machine)? Why does it happen sometimes but not others? Problem 2 also occurred today - woman from downstairs came up complaining of water coming through the vent above her kitchen window
The (cold) feed to our washing machine is a flexible rubber pipe, and is joined with a plastic screw fitting to a valved T-piece on the copper cold water pipe. Turns out that the screw fitting was leaking like a sieve. Turned the water off, hacked the back of the kitchen cupboard away (bloke who lived here before didn't look too far ahead when he boxed all the plumbing in ), managed to tighten the screw fitting up a little bit, which helped. I can still see the occasional spot of water forming on it but I've done what I can. Problems were: the back of the cupboard in the way, it's all plumbed really badly, no room to do anything, and none of the copper pipes are braced so they move around Also, the tap on the T-piece seems not to work - the tap was pointing across the top of the T (which I think is off), however the water flowed. I even switched on the washing machine, and no matter what position the tap was in the water seemed to be flowing. There's another tap in the flexible line, but that's not much use if the joint further up is leaking...
So, any ideas / solutions / advice?
My plans at the moment are :
1) keep an eye on the T-piece
2) maybe try to tighten it some more with a wrench if I can get to it
3) get dad to replace T-piece with one with tap that works next time he's down, and maybe plumb to a wall mounted tap to stop it happening again
4) get flexi-thing and stuff down waste pipe as far as main stack.
5) if washing machine keeps overflowing, tell management and mention that next door had work down in the kitchen!
Is it likely that we share the same stack?
NiceCupOfTea said:
Or why the tap would seem to work in both positions? DO they often break?
If it`s a plastic handled valve which has been in the "on" position for yonks, then yes it is possible. Remove the plastic handle and turn the valve with a pair of mole grips.
Not a clue about the waste I`m afraid.
Steve
You can repair the leaky nut quite easily. It sounds like it has never been taped with PTFE. You can check by unscrewing it. If the thread is clean, get some PTFE tape from B&Q or wherever, wrap the tape in the opposite direction you screw the nut on, and tighten it back up. Its stretchy stuff, and will stick of its own accord. It forms a seal inside the thread that water can't penetrate.
The joint may also contain an olive (small ring of metal, like a wedding ring). If the nut has been overtightened, the olive will be crushed, and you'll have to refit the joint with new parts.
As for the U-bend, I can only think that you have a blockage somewhere. Take the washing machine off, fill the U-bend with water, and see how long it drains properly. You may have to do this for some time (hosepipe would help). If its blocked at some point, eventually the water will back up to the U-bend, and thats when it will overflow. If sinks and toilets also share the same pipe, its likely that a collection of greasy gunge from the sink and bangers and mash from the toilet are lurking down there somewhere. You might even be able to shove a wet mop in the end of the pipe, and use it to plunge the pipe clear of obstructions.
Go to your drain outside near the stack (if there is one), and see if the drain backs up as well. If it does, get a mop and use it as a big plunger in the drain (fill it with water first).
The thingy you're after is an auger, but I think you'll be lucky to clear any blockages. You might have to remove the pipe into the soil stack and check it by looking through it (not nice).
If you can't find any obvious blockages, call a plumber - it will be cheaper than replacing the neighbour's ceiling.
Oh one last thing, make sure the top of the soil stack hasn't been blocked by a birds nest.
The joint may also contain an olive (small ring of metal, like a wedding ring). If the nut has been overtightened, the olive will be crushed, and you'll have to refit the joint with new parts.
As for the U-bend, I can only think that you have a blockage somewhere. Take the washing machine off, fill the U-bend with water, and see how long it drains properly. You may have to do this for some time (hosepipe would help). If its blocked at some point, eventually the water will back up to the U-bend, and thats when it will overflow. If sinks and toilets also share the same pipe, its likely that a collection of greasy gunge from the sink and bangers and mash from the toilet are lurking down there somewhere. You might even be able to shove a wet mop in the end of the pipe, and use it to plunge the pipe clear of obstructions.
Go to your drain outside near the stack (if there is one), and see if the drain backs up as well. If it does, get a mop and use it as a big plunger in the drain (fill it with water first).
The thingy you're after is an auger, but I think you'll be lucky to clear any blockages. You might have to remove the pipe into the soil stack and check it by looking through it (not nice).
If you can't find any obvious blockages, call a plumber - it will be cheaper than replacing the neighbour's ceiling.
Oh one last thing, make sure the top of the soil stack hasn't been blocked by a birds nest.
Ah, plumbing.... 
We realised that the kitchen drain wasn't emptying properly, so I got the manhole cover up and wound my wiry tool up the tube. Large clotted masses of clag later and the drain was clear.
Alas I was splattered with gunge, so I thought I'd wash myself using the outside tap. Unfortunately I leaned on the tap a bit and the copper flexi that fed it split, dousing me, the Punto and the Esprit.
I had to turn the water main off, empty the kitchen cupboards and grovel on my knees to chop the inside end of the flexi. I was going to fit a service valve so I could come back and finish replumbing later, but I couldn't find one so had to make do with capping it off.
Another bloody DIY job on the list...
We realised that the kitchen drain wasn't emptying properly, so I got the manhole cover up and wound my wiry tool up the tube. Large clotted masses of clag later and the drain was clear.
Alas I was splattered with gunge, so I thought I'd wash myself using the outside tap. Unfortunately I leaned on the tap a bit and the copper flexi that fed it split, dousing me, the Punto and the Esprit.
I had to turn the water main off, empty the kitchen cupboards and grovel on my knees to chop the inside end of the flexi. I was going to fit a service valve so I could come back and finish replumbing later, but I couldn't find one so had to make do with capping it off.
Another bloody DIY job on the list...
Thanks for all the advice guys! 
The joint is very difficult to reach - behind 2 other pipes very close to the wall, and behind the kitchen cupboard. I was thinking about PTFE tape but I honestly don't know whether it will be possible without pulling the kitchen apart.
Again, the waste pipe goes behind all the cupboards so I just can't get to it. I'll get one of those flexi things tomorrow and have a good poke as far as the main stack.
If that doesn't sort it I'm at a loss
As I say, it's a flat so I'm very limited in what I can get at, and I *really* don't want to pull the kitchen apart. It's not like it's just a couple of units, it's the entire end of the kitchen that will have to come out (3 walls), including sink
Tomorrow I will poke the drain pipe a bit and see if I can tighten the joint again - doesn't seem to be leaking.
Most odd, had a similar problem with the water pipe to the toilet cistern about the time of the last waste pipe problem. Cleaned it up, stuck a tray under the joint, and not a drop since.
I don't understand plumbing 
PS Steve/Towman, tap seems to turn, you can see the brass bit on the fixing rotating when you move the plastic handle.
>> Edited by NiceCupOfTea on Tuesday 8th March 01:25
The joint is very difficult to reach - behind 2 other pipes very close to the wall, and behind the kitchen cupboard. I was thinking about PTFE tape but I honestly don't know whether it will be possible without pulling the kitchen apart.
Again, the waste pipe goes behind all the cupboards so I just can't get to it. I'll get one of those flexi things tomorrow and have a good poke as far as the main stack.
If that doesn't sort it I'm at a loss
As I say, it's a flat so I'm very limited in what I can get at, and I *really* don't want to pull the kitchen apart. It's not like it's just a couple of units, it's the entire end of the kitchen that will have to come out (3 walls), including sink
Tomorrow I will poke the drain pipe a bit and see if I can tighten the joint again - doesn't seem to be leaking.
Most odd, had a similar problem with the water pipe to the toilet cistern about the time of the last waste pipe problem. Cleaned it up, stuck a tray under the joint, and not a drop since.
I don't understand plumbing
PS Steve/Towman, tap seems to turn, you can see the brass bit on the fixing rotating when you move the plastic handle.
>> Edited by NiceCupOfTea on Tuesday 8th March 01:25
Right.
1. Nipped up the cold water T-piece joint with some pliers, about a tenth of a rotation. There's a tiny drop of water formed on it, but it's been there all night so hopefully it's just condensation or the remains from when it was peeing everywhere.
2. Bought a flexi drain cleaner thing (long metal spring in a cassette, just push it through the pipe, then rotate it. To be honest, found nothing other than a bit of sludge, no blockages. Have put it all back together and sealed the joint where the washing machine drain pipe hooks into the waste pipe with a few layers of gaffer tape
Hopefully that should prevent the water backing up if there is a sligh obstruction (there's nothing major that I could find, and the sinks drain fine). If it does back up should just end up in the sink rather than on the floor.
Somebody correct me if I'm wrong but the washing machine will have a one way valve to stop waste backing up into the drum, right?
Anyway, hopefully that's the end of the drama...
:touchwoodsmiley:
- flexible hose & washing machine banging on/off caused cold fitment to loosen
- some cack in drain pipe and shallow drain pipe angle meant that water backed up easily.
I reckon that's it - anything that I missed?
>> Edited by NiceCupOfTea on Tuesday 8th March 17:11
1. Nipped up the cold water T-piece joint with some pliers, about a tenth of a rotation. There's a tiny drop of water formed on it, but it's been there all night so hopefully it's just condensation or the remains from when it was peeing everywhere.
2. Bought a flexi drain cleaner thing (long metal spring in a cassette, just push it through the pipe, then rotate it. To be honest, found nothing other than a bit of sludge, no blockages. Have put it all back together and sealed the joint where the washing machine drain pipe hooks into the waste pipe with a few layers of gaffer tape
Hopefully that should prevent the water backing up if there is a sligh obstruction (there's nothing major that I could find, and the sinks drain fine). If it does back up should just end up in the sink rather than on the floor. Somebody correct me if I'm wrong but the washing machine will have a one way valve to stop waste backing up into the drum, right?
Anyway, hopefully that's the end of the drama...
:touchwoodsmiley: - flexible hose & washing machine banging on/off caused cold fitment to loosen
- some cack in drain pipe and shallow drain pipe angle meant that water backed up easily.
I reckon that's it - anything that I missed?
>> Edited by NiceCupOfTea on Tuesday 8th March 17:11
NiceCupOfTea said:
Have put it all back together and sealed the joint where the washing machine drain pipe hooks into the waste pipe with a few layers of gaffer tape
The way that hose hooks over is to give the join an 'air-gap' for backflow protection to comply with water company regulations. If the water is coming over that then the waste is either undersized for its length (40mm or 50mm if over 1700mm in length) or blocked somehere. Don't rule out a blockage much further down the soil system....
NiceCupOfTea said:Wrong.
Somebody correct me if I'm wrong but the washing machine will have a one way valve to stop waste backing up into the drum, right?
parrot of doom said:
Did you run the water into the pipe for a good length of time, to make sure the blockage has cleared?
No, not really possible due to lack of hosepipe friendly taps. And just pouring pint glasses of water down isn't really likely to show whether things will back up with a much larger throughput of water (ie from the washing machine)
Ferg said:
NiceCupOfTea said:
Have put it all back together and sealed the joint where the washing machine drain pipe hooks into the waste pipe with a few layers of gaffer tape
The way that hose hooks over is to give the join an 'air-gap' for backflow protection to comply with water company regulations. If the water is coming over that then the waste is either undersized for its length (40mm or 50mm if over 1700mm in length) or blocked somehere. Don't rule out a blockage much further down the soil system....
Bah. It's at least a 40mm pipe. What's the pipe being sealed likely to do? Thinking about it, the pipe is effectively vented through the sinks though...
Ferg said:
NiceCupOfTea said:
Somebody correct me if I'm wrong but the washing machine will have a one way valve to stop waste backing up into the drum, right?
Wrong.
Great.
Well, I have a load of washing on at the mo as a test, so I guess we'll see what happens... How come it's fine 9 times out of 10, and then there's a problem?
I guess all that can be done now is keep and eye on it and if it backs up again, tell the woman in charge of flat maintenance. I gather unblocking stacks isn't too difficult - it's done from outside with sort of inspection holes IIRC?
I have a funny feeling that if it's blocked it's due to next door's kitchen work the other week. Problems started the same day, and I find it hard to believe that we'd have 2 identical stacks 12 inches apart on either side of the wall...
>> Edited by NiceCupOfTea on Tuesday 8th March 20:13
>> Edited by NiceCupOfTea on Tuesday 8th March 20:14
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