foam loft insulation?
Discussion
That spray on stuff thats advertised by various companies, where it bonds to the underside of the tiles.
I've got a 1930's house with no underfelt and the loft gets really crappy with dust, leaves etc. But a mate has told me it'll be mega-expensive and create more problems than it solves.
Anyone had experience of this stuff, or any professional/surveyor types got any comments?
I've got a 1930's house with no underfelt and the loft gets really crappy with dust, leaves etc. But a mate has told me it'll be mega-expensive and create more problems than it solves.
Anyone had experience of this stuff, or any professional/surveyor types got any comments?
It's been around for a while now so it's proven technology. Used a lot to insulate boat hulls (narrowboat size) for example.
From what I've come across, it works fine - my concern would be the implications of then doing a repair on a broken tile for example & losing the insulation that's attached to it.
Other types of insulation include blown fibre - shredded fibreglass which is blasted in from a hose. Usually has an ingedient to make it stick together when used in open lofts otherwise when the wind blows... whoosh!
Remember the polystyrene bead approach to insulation? Still used for cavity fill from time to time but need to beware of any openings. One house I saw had an attached outhouse - they forgot a break in the cavity & literally filled the outhouse with poly beads
I've heard of them being used for lofts but really not a good idea - you end up with a snowdrift at one end.
Best for lofts is the traditional fibreglass roll but don't forget, current recommendations are for about 8" depth - the old 1 - 2" idea was when energy was cheap & insulation expensive, now it's the otherway round. And don't compress it - you need it fluffy!
...and when insulating a loft, do try & keep the pipes/water tank thermally in the downstairs (i.e lag over the top, not underneath them) otherwise the damage from burst pipes might offend.
Hope that helps a little, I'm not an expert in insulation building regs but part of my biz involves surveying using thermal imaging kit to check out insulation so I've seen most types at some stage.
I get pics like this...
The client may have specified & ordered thermal blocks but I suspect they ended up in the builder's conservatory with inferior ones delivered to site!
(That image is made up purely of thermal energy, no visible light whatsoever - the lighter an area is, the more energy we're detecting being lost through the building fabric).
From what I've come across, it works fine - my concern would be the implications of then doing a repair on a broken tile for example & losing the insulation that's attached to it.
Other types of insulation include blown fibre - shredded fibreglass which is blasted in from a hose. Usually has an ingedient to make it stick together when used in open lofts otherwise when the wind blows... whoosh!
Remember the polystyrene bead approach to insulation? Still used for cavity fill from time to time but need to beware of any openings. One house I saw had an attached outhouse - they forgot a break in the cavity & literally filled the outhouse with poly beads
I've heard of them being used for lofts but really not a good idea - you end up with a snowdrift at one end.
Best for lofts is the traditional fibreglass roll but don't forget, current recommendations are for about 8" depth - the old 1 - 2" idea was when energy was cheap & insulation expensive, now it's the otherway round. And don't compress it - you need it fluffy!
...and when insulating a loft, do try & keep the pipes/water tank thermally in the downstairs (i.e lag over the top, not underneath them) otherwise the damage from burst pipes might offend.
Hope that helps a little, I'm not an expert in insulation building regs but part of my biz involves surveying using thermal imaging kit to check out insulation so I've seen most types at some stage.
I get pics like this...
The client may have specified & ordered thermal blocks but I suspect they ended up in the builder's conservatory with inferior ones delivered to site!
(That image is made up purely of thermal energy, no visible light whatsoever - the lighter an area is, the more energy we're detecting being lost through the building fabric).
[quote=Pot Bellied Fool]
Best for lofts is the traditional fibreglass roll but don't forget, current recommendations are for about 8" depth - the old 1 - 2" idea was when energy was cheap & insulation expensive, now it's the otherway round. And don't compress it - you need it fluffy!
...and when insulating a loft, do try & keep the pipes/water tank thermally in the downstairs (i.e lag over the top, not underneath them) otherwise the damage from burst pipes might offend.[quote]
I have recently purchased all new loft insulation for my house c1919. Travis Perkins told me that the Building Regs for new builds specificaly states using 8"(200mm) thick, fibregalss roll.
I now have the problem that I need to also insulate between the tiles and plaster work where the roof extends down the house.
I was also told although have not clarified that the electric companies can be asked to pay for the insulation if you ask them to do it. I'd bought mine after I was told that though.
Paul
Best for lofts is the traditional fibreglass roll but don't forget, current recommendations are for about 8" depth - the old 1 - 2" idea was when energy was cheap & insulation expensive, now it's the otherway round. And don't compress it - you need it fluffy!
...and when insulating a loft, do try & keep the pipes/water tank thermally in the downstairs (i.e lag over the top, not underneath them) otherwise the damage from burst pipes might offend.[quote]
I have recently purchased all new loft insulation for my house c1919. Travis Perkins told me that the Building Regs for new builds specificaly states using 8"(200mm) thick, fibregalss roll.
I now have the problem that I need to also insulate between the tiles and plaster work where the roof extends down the house.
I was also told although have not clarified that the electric companies can be asked to pay for the insulation if you ask them to do it. I'd bought mine after I was told that though.
Paul
This stuff is a great idea, but there are too many dodgy companies offering it at present!
My mother had it done in her previous house (in Northampton) and the 'cowboys' that she used made a right mess. Uneven coverage, missed bits and overspray everywhere! The cost to make good and clean up the mess was more than she was charged for the job in the first place!
Do not engage a contractor unless you get a personal recommendation and have seen their work BEWARE!!!! (Bear in mind almost anyone can buy the materials/kit and set up in business dong this type of work, no qualifcations or working practices/guidelines apply).
BTW: The company she used were advertised in one of the National Press Sunday supplements, so this was not just a response to a card dropped through the door by a local firm!!!!
My mother had it done in her previous house (in Northampton) and the 'cowboys' that she used made a right mess. Uneven coverage, missed bits and overspray everywhere! The cost to make good and clean up the mess was more than she was charged for the job in the first place!
Do not engage a contractor unless you get a personal recommendation and have seen their work BEWARE!!!! (Bear in mind almost anyone can buy the materials/kit and set up in business dong this type of work, no qualifcations or working practices/guidelines apply).
BTW: The company she used were advertised in one of the National Press Sunday supplements, so this was not just a response to a card dropped through the door by a local firm!!!!
cerby4.5 said:
This stuff is a great idea, but there are too many dodgy companies offering it at present!
BTW: The company she used were advertised in one of the National Press Sunday supplements, so this was not just a response to a card dropped through the door by a local firm!!!!
You'd probably have been best using a local outfit I suspect. Hope you got it sorted ok.
Things to look for in the insulation game are membership of BBA (British Board of Agrement) www.bbacerts.co.uk and CIGA www.ciga.co.uk although nothing beats personal recommendation imho.
zzr said:
I was also told although have not clarified that the electric companies can be asked to pay for the insulation if you ask them to do it. I'd bought mine after I was told that though.
Nope, not as such.
The energy utilities have to plough a certain amount of revenue back into energy efficiency campaigns as part of their operating conditions. This is why you'll often get brochures from them offering cheap energy efficient bulbs for example.
They often also sponsor energy awareness campaigns for the elderly and have been known to pay for insulation/energy efficiency works directly.
However, when they do this, it's usually under the same conditions as the Warm Front scheme (HEES as was) which provides grant aided insulation to pensioners & those on certain benefits.
Cheers - PBF
Lofts are meant to be airy, breezy places.
Felt is a last barrier against the ingress of rain and dust. Its not meant to insulate against heat loss.
Personally, I wouldn't touch this spray with a barge pole, I wouldn't want to run the risk of rotten timbers due to lack of adequate ventilation.
Felt is a last barrier against the ingress of rain and dust. Its not meant to insulate against heat loss.
Personally, I wouldn't touch this spray with a barge pole, I wouldn't want to run the risk of rotten timbers due to lack of adequate ventilation.
Parrot of doom said:
Lofts are meant to be airy, breezy places.
...and this makes insulating the underside of the tiles instead of the top of the ceiling rather pointless.
Personally, I favour polystyrene beads over fibreglass. They may be a bit more messy, but they're a whole lot less itchy. Fibreglass wool is horrible stuff. Anyway, you can always put the beads in bags.
Talking of bags, what's the form for insulating under flat rooves and between floors (flats)?
I was thinking of some sort of bag or sealed block (something like felt wrapped in polythene), and retained by banding (like the sort of stuff that you sometimes get on large boxes). Then, if you need to get the ceiling down, you don't get a pile of rubbish coming down with it. Anyone got any ideas or leads?
I was thinking of some sort of bag or sealed block (something like felt wrapped in polythene), and retained by banding (like the sort of stuff that you sometimes get on large boxes). Then, if you need to get the ceiling down, you don't get a pile of rubbish coming down with it. Anyone got any ideas or leads?
800 said:
Try....
www.rockwool.co.uk/sw47799.asp
www.kingspan.com/
As specified by Architects
Also try
www.celotex.co.uk
and look at the solutions pages.
270mm is the recommended depth for loft insulation now.
For grants, ask your local council.
There are schemes running all over the country (financed by the gas and electric companies).
People on benefits can usually get their loft and walls insulated free.
Everyone else will qualify for some sort of 'grant'.
Up here walls can be insulated for £99, and loft another £99 (inc VAT) by approved companies working on these schemes.
The Energy Savings Trust have a website with details.
www.est.org.uk
For grants, ask your local council.
There are schemes running all over the country (financed by the gas and electric companies).
People on benefits can usually get their loft and walls insulated free.
Everyone else will qualify for some sort of 'grant'.
Up here walls can be insulated for £99, and loft another £99 (inc VAT) by approved companies working on these schemes.
The Energy Savings Trust have a website with details.
www.est.org.uk
i am a full time proffesional roofer, parrot is right about ventalation
i would have thougt this would make the roof space sweat and cause condensation.
these products are no cheaper than getting your roof stripped and recovered
with a good membrane like tyvek,iwould stay clear of the spraying method and get a quote from a reputable roofing contractor i bet there is not much in it.
i would have thougt this would make the roof space sweat and cause condensation.
these products are no cheaper than getting your roof stripped and recovered
with a good membrane like tyvek,iwould stay clear of the spraying method and get a quote from a reputable roofing contractor i bet there is not much in it.
martin350 said:
i am a full time proffesional roofer, parrot is right about ventalation
i would have thougt this would make the roof space sweat and cause condensation.
these products are no cheaper than getting your roof stripped and recovered
with a good membrane like tyvek,iwould stay clear of the spraying method and get a quote from a reputable roofing contractor i bet there is not much in it.
I agree with you.
A temperature differential is going to be set up, so at least requiring a vapour barrier.
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