Protecting wooden worksurfaces
Protecting wooden worksurfaces
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Discussion

pikey

Original Poster:

7,704 posts

314 months

Thursday 14th August 2008
quotequote all
Have a new kitchen worktop made out of some rather fine Walnut and it needs protecting / sealing but without changing the colour too much.

We've tried (on an offcut) Beeswax, which looks good but the instructions say isn't suitable for wet areas (ie. the drainer). And now I've tried (on a different offcut!) boiled linseed oil, but (24 hours later) it's quite a few shades darker.

Other considerations are varnish, but this doesn't really penetrate and protect in the same way.

Anyone with experience of wood who can suggest a linseed oil protection with a beeswax finish?

Thanks

Ben


Untreated:


evenflow

8,885 posts

312 months

Thursday 14th August 2008
quotequote all
Maybe try Danish oil?

neelyp

1,703 posts

241 months

Thursday 14th August 2008
quotequote all
I used Junkers oil on my beech worktop, honestly can't remember if it made it darker (if it did, not by much)
http://www.decoratingdirect.co.uk/viewprod/j/JUNWT...

Seems to be recommended on a few carpentery forums, Google Junkers oil.

Edited by neelyp on Thursday 14th August 07:59

pikey

Original Poster:

7,704 posts

314 months

Thursday 14th August 2008
quotequote all
evenflow said:
Maybe try Danish oil?
Will give it a go

pies

13,116 posts

286 months

honest_delboy

1,761 posts

230 months

Thursday 14th August 2008
quotequote all
another vote for danish oil, there was a thread about linseed oil a few weeks ago.

Asterix

24,438 posts

258 months

Thursday 14th August 2008
quotequote all
I use mineral oil on my chopping boards - they soak up tons of it to start with and I give them a refresh every couple of months.

I was advised against linseed oil as it will go rancid at some point.

Rob-C

1,488 posts

279 months

Thursday 14th August 2008
quotequote all
evenflow said:
Maybe try Danish oil?
It will darken the wood a little (not as much as linseed). Also it is based on tung nut oil, which can cause allergic reactions in some people. It it is a good choice though.

The ultimate hard-wearing finish for worktops (though not as natural or tactile as an oil finish) is something like Rustins Plastic Coating, which is extremely durable.

Job38

1,973 posts

266 months

Thursday 14th August 2008
quotequote all
Danish Oil.

I specify it for lots of solid work tops, usually iroko.
ps., it's very smelly and very flammable !

(That is a very trad kitchen eek )

nogginthenog

620 posts

231 months

Thursday 14th August 2008
quotequote all
Another vote for Danish. It is smelly for a few hours after application though. I tend to re-coat my kitchen on a day when I can apply it, then go out for the rest of the day!

Parrot of Doom

23,075 posts

264 months

Thursday 14th August 2008
quotequote all
Danish oil is what I use. Just make sure the first application is very very thin, apply it with kitchen roll. Let it dry, then sand down with something like 1200 grit paper, and repeat.

If you put it down too thickly it will just become sticky.

cjs

11,693 posts

281 months

Thursday 14th August 2008
quotequote all
I vote for Laminate worktops, far more practical than real wood.

scotal

8,751 posts

309 months

Thursday 14th August 2008
quotequote all
Sadolin do "worktop oil" available form B&Q.
Easy to apply, colourless.odourless does exactly what it says on the tin.

215cu

2,956 posts

240 months

Thursday 14th August 2008
quotequote all
Just literally put in a new kitchen and opted for oak.

DO NOT VARNISH IT.

If you can find a local Howdens, get hold of their worktop oil, comes in big tins, one tin will provide enough treatment (five coats) for about 5 sq.m.

You need a good quality penetrating oil, Danish is fine but hard to work with.

First coat, really put it on heavy, liberally apply it and using something substantial (like an old tea towel) start rubbing it in. Continue for about 10 minutes (depending on temperature). Using another tea towel, wipe off the excess.

Leave it to dry for 4-6 hours and provide plenty of venilation.

Once dry, a second coat, not so liberal, same process same drying time.

Check grain. Sand (nothing lower than 180 grade) any grain that's risen.

Apply third and fourth coats

Check grain, sand again if it's risen.

Apply fifth coat.

Use new cloths for each coat.

You must also do the underside, not with a heavy coat but sufficient to seal it from moisture, two light coats should be fine.

After that, it should be re-coated every 6-12 months depending on use.

Also, it's best to wipe off spills as soon as they happen. Particularly around the sink (by the way nice tap and sink, we have the same biggrin )

Edited by 215cu on Thursday 14th August 12:53

pikey

Original Poster:

7,704 posts

314 months

Thursday 14th August 2008
quotequote all
scotal said:
Sadolin do "worktop oil" available form B&Q.
Easy to apply, colourless.odourless does exactly what it says on the tin.
Ah yes, http://www.sadolin.co.uk/homeowner/products/interi...

Looks like what I'm looking for.

Thanks!


Unfortunately my local B&Q is out at the mo.

mechsympathy

58,819 posts

285 months

Thursday 14th August 2008
quotequote all
Job38 said:
Danish Oil.
....very flammable !
The cloth can self-ignitebiggrin

jeff m

4,066 posts

288 months

Thursday 14th August 2008
quotequote all
I hope you are considering food contact with whatever you use smile
I assume your wife will roll out pastry on it. If you are lucky enough to have got one that cooks biggrin
Also, at some point somebody is going to put something hot on it.

Butchers traditionally use beef fat/suet on the beech chopping blocks. I expect there is some Euro legislation that prevents that now.