Plumbing question....remving a radiator!

[Chilli]

Quick question for those in the know...

I want to remove a radiator...I can take it off, revove the brackets etc, so that just leaves the pipes sticking out of the wall. So, drain the system (actually, not sure how this is done either), cut the pipes back, and simply cap them off right? Can O just get a "cap" type thingy from b&q? I did ask, but they did't seem to know...she was kinda quute though.

Many thanks for any help.

[sleep envy]

rather than solder a cap on the pipe you can get a screw fitting with a cap which will allow you to put the rad back if you you decide to refit it in the future

it's a compression fitting so saves getting the gas torch out too

[993AL]

You can also get push-fit caps with o'ring seal that can be removed in the future.

http://www.screwfix.com/prods/94176/Plumbing/Push-...

assuming it is 15mm....if not 10mm is also available.

Edited by 993AL on Saturday 10th January 12:37

[NDA]

End cap.

[Gingerbread Man]

To drain your central heating system, you will need to find a drain off cock. There is normally one next to one of the radiators. Attach a hose pipe to this and drain off the water here. This will empty the system. Don't forget to turn off the boiler first.

Capping a pipe can be achieved a few different ways;

Push fit caps which you simply push onto the end of the pipe. Normally white in colour if this helps you look.

Solder an end cap. Do you have solder, flux, means to clean the pipe end and no water left in the pipe? It won't solder if the joins wet.

Compression cap end. This comes with a nut, blacking end and an olive. This is a spanner and grips job.


Make sure that it is 100% not leaking by wiping the joint with loo roll or similar to pick up any traces of moisture.

[993AL]

Gingerbread Man said:

To drain your central heating system, you will need to find a drain off cock. There is normally one next to one of the radiators. Attach a hose pipe to this and drain off the water here. This will empty the system. Don't forget to turn off the boiler first.

If you have a header tank remember to turn off the water supply to it too.

[CedGTV]

I'm not a plumber but wouldn't you lose the flow and return by taking one radiator out of the central heating loop.

[Chilli]

CedGTV said:

I'm not a plumber but wouldn't you lose the flow and return by taking one radiator out of the central heating loop.

I thought about that, but given I turned it off about 1 year ago, and th heating still functions ok, I think it'll be fine.

Gents, thanks v much for the replies, greatly apreciated.

Cheers.

[993AL]

CedGTV said:

I'm not a plumber but wouldn't you lose the flow and return by taking one radiator out of the central heating loop.

No, each rad is fed from a manifold

[Gingerbread Man]

993AL said:

Gingerbread Man said:

To drain your central heating system, you will need to find a drain off cock. There is normally one next to one of the radiators. Attach a hose pipe to this and drain off the water here. This will empty the system. Don't forget to turn off the boiler first.

If you have a header tank remember to turn off the water supply to it too.

Good point, forgot that in my right up! So yeah, tie up the ball valve or plug the outlet.

If you had a one pipe system, removing a rad may have an impact. But as said, they're all from a manifold.

[JBL930]

Can't you just freeze the pipe and then cap it? Got to be less of a pain in the arse than draining and then re-bleeding all the rads

[Gingerbread Man]

JBL930 said:

Can't you just freeze the pipe and then cap it? Got to be less of a pain in the arse than draining and then re-bleeding all the rads

You then have to buy the expensive freezing equipment. Expensive for a one off.

Don't get very long to do it all, so if you're not 100% confident on what you are doing, then you'll be against the clock.

Filling a system and re bleeding is easy. It is quite common for a system to not fill again, water getting stuck by trapped air and having no end of a pain in the bum to sort out.

[JBL930]

Gingerbread Man said:

JBL930 said:

Can't you just freeze the pipe and then cap it? Got to be less of a pain in the arse than draining and then re-bleeding all the rads

You then have to buy the expensive freezing equipment. Expensive for a one off.

Don't get very long to do it all, so if you're not 100% confident on what you are doing, then you'll be against the clock.

Filling a system and re bleeding is easy. It is quite common for a system to not fill again, water getting stuck by trapped air and having no end of a pain in the bum to sort out.

I thought you could get the pipe freezer stuff in a spray can? Then all you need is a hack saw, some wire wool, the cap with the olive etc and some spanners. Should take about 10mins all in? I guess if you're really not confident you should ring a plumber, or ask a friend round that is a little better with DIY


ETA: http://www.screwfix.com/prods/13369/Plumbing/Pipe-...

Edited by JBL930 on Saturday 10th January 13:58

[caiss4]

Is it first or ground floor? If it's first floor you won't have to drain right down anyway. Also you might be able to isolate the feed from the header tank if it's an open system. My experience says it takes a long time to drain a system from the drain valve (which is normally set at the lowest point of the heating system.)

In any case you should close both valves on each radiator so they don't drain. Just re-open when you're ready to refill.

[Gingerbread Man]

JBL930 said:

Gingerbread Man said:

JBL930 said:

Can't you just freeze the pipe and then cap it? Got to be less of a pain in the arse than draining and then re-bleeding all the rads

You then have to buy the expensive freezing equipment. Expensive for a one off.

Don't get very long to do it all, so if you're not 100% confident on what you are doing, then you'll be against the clock.

Filling a system and re bleeding is easy. It is quite common for a system to not fill again, water getting stuck by trapped air and having no end of a pain in the bum to sort out.

I thought you could get the pipe freezer stuff in a spray can? Then all you need is a hack saw, some wire wool, the cap with the olive etc and some spanners. Should take about 10mins all in? I guess if you're really not confident you should ring a plumber, or ask a friend round that is a little better with DIY


ETA: http://www.screwfix.com/prods/13369/Plumbing/Pipe-...

Edited by JBL930 on Saturday 10th January 13:58

Our kit cost over a hundred. Not sure how these cheaper kits work.

Worth a try.

[Busamav]

993AL said:

CedGTV said:

I'm not a plumber but wouldn't you lose the flow and return by taking one radiator out of the central heating loop.

No, each rad is fed from a manifold

With that statement you make the assumption he has a micro bore system .

[SS2.]

Gingerbread Man said:

Our kit cost over a hundred. Not sure how these cheaper kits work.

Pipe Freezing Spray

Whenever I've had to replace a radiator valve / TRV, I've used a can based pipe freezing kit - its quick, clean and simple.

(In addition to the spray itself, you'll need a jacket / lagging for the pipe and a couple of cable ties.)

[DrC]

Actually you can do it without draining or freezing the system. You will need two expanding bungs available from the plumbers - one goes in the feed hole in the central heating header tank and the other goes in the overflow into the central heating header tank. You can now cut and cap one pipe at a time.

[Chilli]

Micro bores? Freezing? 5 minutes of trying to tell the mrs what I'm about to do, cue a row.


Plumber is coming round Thursday.