Floor Insulation
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anonymous-user

Original Poster:

83 months

Tuesday 13th January 2009
quotequote all
Afternoon all

My house has cross flow ventilation, which are basically vents below the damp proof course, which let in air under the house.

This can make my floor very very cold at times. I currently have the carpets and laminate up which I install new heating and would like to insulate the floor.

The standard ways seems to be to take up the wayrock (spelling??? Chipboard type flooring), place a type of netting across the gaps in the joists? And then fill with rockwool insulation. I will laying new flooring/wayrock anyway as it is full of patches and very rough.

A saw an American show “Holmes on Homes” where instead of doing this they simply laid a foam boarding on top of the existing flooring and then lay new flooring on top. This would seem easier and less hassle.

Does anyone have experience in this area?

Iain328

14,982 posts

235 months

Tuesday 13th January 2009
quotequote all
MRSNEAK said:
Afternoon all

My house has cross flow ventilation, which are basically vents below the damp proof course, which let in air under the house.

This can make my floor very very cold at times. I currently have the carpets and laminate up which I install new heating and would like to insulate the floor.

The standard ways seems to be to take up the wayrock (spelling??? Chipboard type flooring), place a type of netting across the gaps in the joists? And then fill with rockwool insulation. I will laying new flooring/wayrock anyway as it is full of patches and very rough.

A saw an American show “Holmes on Homes” where instead of doing this they simply laid a foam boarding on top of the existing flooring and then lay new flooring on top. This would seem easier and less hassle.

Does anyone have experience in this area?
If you raise the level of the existing flooring arn't you then going to have to shorten all your doors & also run into issues with things like kitchen counter heights etc (not no mention the relationship to front/back door steps & any other external doors etc.).

I would suggest you speak to an expert of some sort about this because the ventilation is going to be very important to keeping the floor structure dry. At the same time it may be that if you put in some kind of plastic membrane below the floor boards this will stop a lot of the draughts and hence keep the place warmer. Good underlay below the carpet would help too. If you do want to put some insulation in then maybe polystyrene sheets wedged between the joists would be the way to go & easier to fit.

satans worm

2,464 posts

246 months

Tuesday 13th January 2009
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Could try 'thinsulate', very thin insulation unlike kingspan or the like, meant to be very good, but i have not used it myself.

anonymous-user

Original Poster:

83 months

Tuesday 13th January 2009
quotequote all
Hi, thanks for your reply.

Changing the floor height is not an issue.

Neither option will stop air to the joists any more than it does not.

Ideally I was thinking some sort of think lino that was made for insulations purposes would be ideal, would a good underlay be just as good?

GuinnessMK

1,608 posts

251 months

Tuesday 13th January 2009
quotequote all
We had a problem with damp in our Victorian Terrace a few years back. Had to take up all the floor boards in the living room / dining room and replace the wall plates and most of the boards.

While we were doing it, we installed new airbricks to the front and back elevations, and installed 50mm of polystryrene between each floor joist. Then put the floor boards back down.

Total result, the dining room and living rooms are much warmer, our heating is turned right down and we can walk around barefoot on the timber floor boards even in winter.

Mike

TWSTEEL

1,099 posts

218 months

Tuesday 13th January 2009
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The stuff you're looking for is "jablite" and if you're lifting the floor anyway it's easy to fit. It comes in 8'x4' sheets and is easily cut with a Stanley knife. Easiest way is to tack light support laths along floor joist 2" below floor level, cut your jablite to fit and drop in place. The laths are not carring any weight so don't need to be particularly strong. It's often used over concrete floors where, although it's only expanded polystyrene, the sheet flooring above distributes the load and it retains it's strength.

Edited by TWSTEEL on Tuesday 13th January 14:23

anonymous-user

Original Poster:

83 months

Tuesday 13th January 2009
quotequote all
TWSTEEL said:
The stuff you're looking for is "jablite" and if you're lifting the floor anyway it's easy to fit. It comes in 8'x4' sheets and is easily cut with a Stanley knife. Easiest way is to tack light support laths along floor joist 2" below floor level, cut your jablite to fit and drop in place. The laths are not carring any weight so don't need to be particularly strong. It's often used over concrete floors where, although it's only expanded polystyrene, the sheet flooring above distributes the load and it retains it's strength.

Edited by anonymous-user on Tuesday 13th January 14:23
This sounds like the stuff I saw on tv, I shall now be able to discuss with my joiner (my bro) with out sounding like a total fool.

Thanks all