Climbing Mont Blanc
Discussion
Morning chaps
A quick searched revealed no other topics on this so here goes.
I'm thinking of attempting to climb Mont Blanc next year and wondered if anyone has any experience of doing it? Any recommendations for guides or good companies to do it with?
I'm not overly fit, but will spend the next year getting fit. I regularly climb Snowdon and surrounding hills (although only in summer so far, so winter climbing skills are very limited). Is there any other preparation i could do?
Anything else i need to think of?
Thanking you please ;-)
A quick searched revealed no other topics on this so here goes.
I'm thinking of attempting to climb Mont Blanc next year and wondered if anyone has any experience of doing it? Any recommendations for guides or good companies to do it with?
I'm not overly fit, but will spend the next year getting fit. I regularly climb Snowdon and surrounding hills (although only in summer so far, so winter climbing skills are very limited). Is there any other preparation i could do?
Anything else i need to think of?
Thanking you please ;-)
I'd recommend a mixed snow and rock course in Scotland before you go. It'll give you some confidence in the type of climbing you'll be doing - especially as the weather and snow conditions will be typically worse. They'll also give you some training on self arrest techniques, snow belays, self recovery etc.
Training wise - get rucksack fit (i.e. long days getting used to carrying an apline pack to build up your shoulder stamina) and start hitting the hills regularly - step machines and cycling are also pretty good for related CV, but you can't beat doing it for real. Climbing in crampons for a day on a 45-60 degree slope will make your legs burn like a b
d - especially you calf muscles.
Re guides - put a post on UKC and you'll get some up to date recommendations.
HTH
ETA I've used these guys in the past for some training and they were very professional - they'll hire you the gear as well to see whether you like it enough to buy your own.
http://www.climb365.net/winter/snow-ice-climbing-s...
Training wise - get rucksack fit (i.e. long days getting used to carrying an apline pack to build up your shoulder stamina) and start hitting the hills regularly - step machines and cycling are also pretty good for related CV, but you can't beat doing it for real. Climbing in crampons for a day on a 45-60 degree slope will make your legs burn like a b
d - especially you calf muscles.Re guides - put a post on UKC and you'll get some up to date recommendations.
HTH
ETA I've used these guys in the past for some training and they were very professional - they'll hire you the gear as well to see whether you like it enough to buy your own.
http://www.climb365.net/winter/snow-ice-climbing-s...
Edited by rhinochopig on Monday 16th February 09:18
Edited by rhinochopig on Monday 16th February 09:19
KingJeff 4th said:
Morning chaps
A quick searched revealed no other topics on this so here goes.
I'm thinking of attempting to climb Mont Blanc next year and wondered if anyone has any experience of doing it? Any recommendations for guides or good companies to do it with?
I'm not overly fit, but will spend the next year getting fit. I regularly climb Snowdon and surrounding hills (although only in summer so far, so winter climbing skills are very limited). Is there any other preparation i could do?
Anything else i need to think of?
Thanking you please ;-)
I used to organise Mont Blanc assents as part of my work.A quick searched revealed no other topics on this so here goes.
I'm thinking of attempting to climb Mont Blanc next year and wondered if anyone has any experience of doing it? Any recommendations for guides or good companies to do it with?
I'm not overly fit, but will spend the next year getting fit. I regularly climb Snowdon and surrounding hills (although only in summer so far, so winter climbing skills are very limited). Is there any other preparation i could do?
Anything else i need to think of?
Thanking you please ;-)
Drop me a message, happy to help.
Edited by theboymoon on Monday 16th February 09:38
Briefly, here’s the deal with Mont Blanc…
First of all, its an amazing thing to do and if you are considering it, then GO FOR IT!
The thing about Mont Blanc is that although it is the highest mountain in the European Alps, its not actually a technical climb (particularly by the normal Gouter route). There are 3 or 4 recognised regularly used routes to climb MB and the usual route for a first timer is from the Saint Gervais side up the Gouter.
It’s a bit of a plod really and so the most important 3 things are fitness fitness fitness. Did I mention fitness? Don’t worry about not being an ubercompetent mixed or winter condition climber. Its really not that technical (or at least it doesn’t have to be).
The key to making it a successful trip is having a really good guide. Unlike for other mountains, on mont blanc it’s the law that guides can take a maximum of 2 guests on the assent. The local guides have a VERY strong preference that you come out for a full week to train and acclimatize. A normal training week would include a high level traverse of the vallee blanche to the dent du geant for altitude and things like climbing the petite aiguille verte to get some rope skills practice. Other warm-up days can include clmbing in the Aigulle Rouges, Mont Buet or climbing in Italy. Its really weather dependent. In fact the whole thing is very weather dependent. Sometimes I’ve seen guests summit on day 3 or 4 of a week trip because that’s when the weather window was.
Time of year? Well assuming this is not a winter style ski summit attempt then the best time is really July/August/September. It gets horribly busy (like you have to queue to cross seracs) in August. Queuing under a many tone wall of ice as it drips slowly on top of you is not fun. It is a dangerous old place.
To make the trip a really once in a lifetime type event it just takes a little bit planning, bit of training and a bit of common sense as to how you approach it.
Moon
First of all, its an amazing thing to do and if you are considering it, then GO FOR IT!
The thing about Mont Blanc is that although it is the highest mountain in the European Alps, its not actually a technical climb (particularly by the normal Gouter route). There are 3 or 4 recognised regularly used routes to climb MB and the usual route for a first timer is from the Saint Gervais side up the Gouter.
It’s a bit of a plod really and so the most important 3 things are fitness fitness fitness. Did I mention fitness? Don’t worry about not being an ubercompetent mixed or winter condition climber. Its really not that technical (or at least it doesn’t have to be).
The key to making it a successful trip is having a really good guide. Unlike for other mountains, on mont blanc it’s the law that guides can take a maximum of 2 guests on the assent. The local guides have a VERY strong preference that you come out for a full week to train and acclimatize. A normal training week would include a high level traverse of the vallee blanche to the dent du geant for altitude and things like climbing the petite aiguille verte to get some rope skills practice. Other warm-up days can include clmbing in the Aigulle Rouges, Mont Buet or climbing in Italy. Its really weather dependent. In fact the whole thing is very weather dependent. Sometimes I’ve seen guests summit on day 3 or 4 of a week trip because that’s when the weather window was.
Time of year? Well assuming this is not a winter style ski summit attempt then the best time is really July/August/September. It gets horribly busy (like you have to queue to cross seracs) in August. Queuing under a many tone wall of ice as it drips slowly on top of you is not fun. It is a dangerous old place.
To make the trip a really once in a lifetime type event it just takes a little bit planning, bit of training and a bit of common sense as to how you approach it.
Moon
Edited by theboymoon on Monday 16th February 10:03
KingJeff 4th said:
Thanks very much mate, thats an excellent write up.
Good to know its not a very technical climb, sounds like my fitness may be an issue... hmmm! Better get in training
Just a word of caution - it may not be technical in a climbing sense, but it is still a mountain on which people get killed every year. I would strongly advise you do a Scottish Winter course before you attempt an alpine ascent.Good to know its not a very technical climb, sounds like my fitness may be an issue... hmmm! Better get in training
The reason I say this is because to give yourself the best chance of surviving if it goes wrong, you really need to be using the guide for route finding rather than mitigating your own lack of technical skills. Simple things like knowing how to prussik or self rescue or even the various crampon techniques could be the difference between you surviving and not. Guides aren't infallible and they do make mistakes, and you don't want to be half way up a mountain thinking - bugger now what am I going to do.
Some guides will teach you some skills, prior to climbing, but you really want to have them as second nature (or at least be familiar with them) rather have the whole week being one massive learning curve. It'll be tiring enough without having to constantly remind yourself what you feet should be doing.
I did some indoor ice climbing at the shop on deansgate manchester, god was that hard work but very enjoyable.
If you have a local place why not give it a go.
I am doing some via ferrata (in italy) in June but would like to do a proper climb some time as well, and did look at the mont blanc as a possible climb.
If you have a local place why not give it a go.
I am doing some via ferrata (in italy) in June but would like to do a proper climb some time as well, and did look at the mont blanc as a possible climb.
I went for Mont Blanc mainly because its the highest in Western Europe and by all accounts is relativly 'easy' in comparison to a lot of mountaineering / alpinism in the area.
I use the word 'easy' in context of course. As it will no doubt be the biggest challenge of my life to date, 'easy' in context to say.. the North Face of the Eiger.
Also a life long dream would be to climb the highest peaks on all continents. Although Everest won't be a reality (from a technical, and monitary point of view) i'd like to think I made a start on my boyhood dream! I'd also like to think i could achieve Kili at some point too (seen as moyles is even having a go) to tick 2 off the list of 7!
[/day dream mode]
I use the word 'easy' in context of course. As it will no doubt be the biggest challenge of my life to date, 'easy' in context to say.. the North Face of the Eiger.
Also a life long dream would be to climb the highest peaks on all continents. Although Everest won't be a reality (from a technical, and monitary point of view) i'd like to think I made a start on my boyhood dream! I'd also like to think i could achieve Kili at some point too (seen as moyles is even having a go) to tick 2 off the list of 7!
[/day dream mode]
Hi if you are after the highest peak by continent then that will have to be Elbrus , but having climbed and taken friends up Mont Blanc, it is a truly great trip.
I would echo the weather dependency issue . if conditions are good and you don't have any altitude issues then it is a glorious couple of days , If the weather is bad , it can kill
the worst I remember was 14 people in two days , largely due to rain at very high altitude coating everything in ice
Don't be afraid to turn back if the conditions go against you. the mountain will be there next year
I would reiterate that whilst fitness is important , acclimatisation is more so .
I have seen friends who win adventure races , but were floored by the altitude.
Typically you are looking at a 2 day climb with a guide
leaving from Les Houches
up in the train
walk to the glacier
walk/scramble up the ridge to the Gouter hut, where you spend the night
Day 2 , an early start
Dome de Gouter
up past the Velo hut (emergency refuge)
up and along the Bosses Edge to the summit
This Edge is exposed ! and somewhat scary in any significant wind.
If you know Snowdonia , the ridge to the Gouter hut is not as technical as the north ridge of Tryfan so c. grade 1 scramble at it's worst, (but it becomes a lot more so if it gets covered in snow!)
there are alternatives e.g. Mont Blanc Tucal leaving from the Agui de Midi
Personally , having gone with a guide the first time , I wouldn't bother again , but this all depends on your level of experience.
if worried about your fitness dial in more time lower on the mountain , where living is comfortable.
PM me your Tel. if you want to talk further
Rich
I would echo the weather dependency issue . if conditions are good and you don't have any altitude issues then it is a glorious couple of days , If the weather is bad , it can kill
the worst I remember was 14 people in two days , largely due to rain at very high altitude coating everything in ice
Don't be afraid to turn back if the conditions go against you. the mountain will be there next year
I would reiterate that whilst fitness is important , acclimatisation is more so .
I have seen friends who win adventure races , but were floored by the altitude.
Typically you are looking at a 2 day climb with a guide
leaving from Les Houches
up in the train
walk to the glacier
walk/scramble up the ridge to the Gouter hut, where you spend the night
Day 2 , an early start
Dome de Gouter
up past the Velo hut (emergency refuge)
up and along the Bosses Edge to the summit
This Edge is exposed ! and somewhat scary in any significant wind.
If you know Snowdonia , the ridge to the Gouter hut is not as technical as the north ridge of Tryfan so c. grade 1 scramble at it's worst, (but it becomes a lot more so if it gets covered in snow!)
there are alternatives e.g. Mont Blanc Tucal leaving from the Agui de Midi
Personally , having gone with a guide the first time , I wouldn't bother again , but this all depends on your level of experience.
if worried about your fitness dial in more time lower on the mountain , where living is comfortable.
PM me your Tel. if you want to talk further
Rich
if you want to try a high peak why not
http://www.worldexpeditions.com/uk/index.php?secti...
which is 1400m higher than killi.
Simon yates is leading one of the trips, so watch he does not cut your rope.
http://www.worldexpeditions.com/uk/index.php?secti...
which is 1400m higher than killi.
Simon yates is leading one of the trips, so watch he does not cut your rope.
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