Ok. No Laughing. (Seized Bolts)
Discussion
Ok. Just reversed into a curb (Note to self: DONT drive whilst in a foul mood or whilst on the phone) and slightly damaged the rear diffuser.
To cut a long story short the two allen-keyed bolts have seized and whilst trying to force them i have circled the allen key size slot/hole (i.e. the key just spins around in it).
Does it need to be sheared off?
Cheers Big-Lads
To cut a long story short the two allen-keyed bolts have seized and whilst trying to force them i have circled the allen key size slot/hole (i.e. the key just spins around in it).
Does it need to be sheared off?
Cheers Big-Lads
I had the same sort of problem last week trying to remove undertray to fit my new gear linkage. I did get one undone, but the other weren't shiftin and started to round. In the end i took all the outside bolts out and then rotated the diffuser around from side to side working the bolt free. This may help, but if both are knackered.....mmmm time to think again!!!
Hi
Get a small needle file and carefully file a slot into the seized bolt(s) taking care not to put too deep a slot into them......
Then get large flat bladed screwdriver that fills the slot and try and undo the bolt....
If you don't file deep enough, the screwdriver may slip off, too deep a slot and the head may snap off but you won't be any worse off if that happens.....
Re fit the new bolts with copper grease so it can't happen again
Tim.
Get a small needle file and carefully file a slot into the seized bolt(s) taking care not to put too deep a slot into them......
Then get large flat bladed screwdriver that fills the slot and try and undo the bolt....
If you don't file deep enough, the screwdriver may slip off, too deep a slot and the head may snap off but you won't be any worse off if that happens.....
Re fit the new bolts with copper grease so it can't happen again
Tim.
Cheers Fellas! 
I think i'll stay away from Fergus' methods
as im shite with anything mechanical 
Si: im knackered as both are stuck and have rounded. Thus, i'll follow Tim, however i'll go the whole 9yards and file the
off (they have rounded so im better off getting new bolts anyway).
Fun day ahead tomorrow then
Thanks again. Appreciated.
I think i'll stay away from Fergus' methods
as im shite with anything mechanical Si: im knackered as both are stuck and have rounded. Thus, i'll follow Tim, however i'll go the whole 9yards and file the
off (they have rounded so im better off getting new bolts anyway). Fun day ahead tomorrow then
Thanks again. Appreciated.
Unless the holes have completely rounded out (eg. there must be a remains of a corner in there somewhere) I'd be tempted to use an impact driver if a small flat driver head can be made to bite into the hole. Twat with large rubber/copper faced hammer. Make sure the driver is set to turn anticlockwise!
Failing that, the needlefile suggestion earlier, except you may have more luck with half a hacksaw blade and gloves. Mask the surrounding diffuser ally with gaffer tape for either methods as you sound mildly accident prone!
John S.
Failing that, the needlefile suggestion earlier, except you may have more luck with half a hacksaw blade and gloves. Mask the surrounding diffuser ally with gaffer tape for either methods as you sound mildly accident prone!
John S.
cinqster said:
I'd be tempted to use an impact driver
Nooooo!!! the fixings in question only go into the lip of the fibreglass clam - you'd end up with a massive crack/hole.
My tip is for left handed drill bits in a cordless drill - drill slowly and controllably and sometimes they bite and wind the screw out, otherwise the head will drill neatly off and you can remove the rest.
Be wary of high speed drills and grinders, heat can build up and damage GRP.
AdrianR
Hi Mate
careful with this one (if you haven't already managed to remove the bolts)
Small dremmel to put a slot on the now rounded head and a large flat blade screwdriver to undo the bolt. When I removed my undertray last week I suspected that these bolts are nearly as long in length as the threaded holes they go into, hence they can seize easily by bottoming out. some grease should prevent this happening in the future but these bolts don't have to be super tight as there are about 12 small M5 bolts around the edge of the tray anyway.
one of the virtues of a mega (remember i have seen it) low elise Drag!
S2 suspension getting fitted at F1 on Monday!!!!!! yeah, no more knocking noises!!!!!
Wak
careful with this one (if you haven't already managed to remove the bolts)
Small dremmel to put a slot on the now rounded head and a large flat blade screwdriver to undo the bolt. When I removed my undertray last week I suspected that these bolts are nearly as long in length as the threaded holes they go into, hence they can seize easily by bottoming out. some grease should prevent this happening in the future but these bolts don't have to be super tight as there are about 12 small M5 bolts around the edge of the tray anyway.
one of the virtues of a mega (remember i have seen it) low elise Drag!
S2 suspension getting fitted at F1 on Monday!!!!!! yeah, no more knocking noises!!!!!
Wak
adrianr said:
[quote=cinqster]I'd be tempted to use an impact driver
Nooooo!!! the fixings in question only go into the lip of the fibreglass clam - you'd end up with a massive crack/hole.
Wrong,
if they're allen bolts then they're the biggies that bolt into the steel subframe! John S.
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