radiator fan blew its 25amp fuse.....why guys??
Discussion
got an S2. Happened when idling in traffic jam in city...have only gone over 100C twice before in last 6 month but could hear fan kicking in. this time though the temp went to 111C and no fan noise!!!! have replaced with 20 amp fuse halfords dont do 25s! think ill go and kick the dealers ass
Couldn't say for sure but it might be worth checking that the fan isn't starting to seize.
This is a common problem with Elises, since when standing in the rain water can run straight down through the horizontal radiator and onto the fan. And, of course, the fan cuts in fairly infrequently (particularly at this time of year), so easy for things to seize up.
I assume that if it did start to seize, the motor might be drawing sufficient current in its efforts to turn the fan that it would blow a fuse?
This is a common problem with Elises, since when standing in the rain water can run straight down through the horizontal radiator and onto the fan. And, of course, the fan cuts in fairly infrequently (particularly at this time of year), so easy for things to seize up.
I assume that if it did start to seize, the motor might be drawing sufficient current in its efforts to turn the fan that it would blow a fuse?
To check the fan on the S1 there are two basic tests that might help:
1) Remove the relay and bridge the terminals on the socket with a bit of wire. If you have current, you should get a nice little blue spark as the wire makes contact. The fan should turn on...if you get the spark but no action from the fan, then it is most likely seized. No blue spark most likely indicates a break or bad connection on the wiring.
If it runs, but is reluctant or slows down very quickly when you remove the current, then it is partially siezed - in good condition it should start instantly and spin down quite slowly (several seconds to stop).
2) Remove the front intake grille (two crosshead screws, then lift the grille up and out - two wire 'pegs' locate in holes in the bodyshell on a standard S1). Reach in under the radiator and you should be able to get your fingers to the fan blades and spin it over by hand. If it is at all stiff, then it has seized.
Unfortunately, to replace the fan is definitely a clamshell-off job. Count on a day's work, including buggering about with the stupid rubber 'rivnuts' that Lotus use to fix the clam, and which always just turn 'cos the screws have rusted into them!
1) Remove the relay and bridge the terminals on the socket with a bit of wire. If you have current, you should get a nice little blue spark as the wire makes contact. The fan should turn on...if you get the spark but no action from the fan, then it is most likely seized. No blue spark most likely indicates a break or bad connection on the wiring.
If it runs, but is reluctant or slows down very quickly when you remove the current, then it is partially siezed - in good condition it should start instantly and spin down quite slowly (several seconds to stop).
2) Remove the front intake grille (two crosshead screws, then lift the grille up and out - two wire 'pegs' locate in holes in the bodyshell on a standard S1). Reach in under the radiator and you should be able to get your fingers to the fan blades and spin it over by hand. If it is at all stiff, then it has seized.
Unfortunately, to replace the fan is definitely a clamshell-off job. Count on a day's work, including buggering about with the stupid rubber 'rivnuts' that Lotus use to fix the clam, and which always just turn 'cos the screws have rusted into them!
K-Serious said:
is it possible to check the fan on an S2 by removing front under tray?
cheers guys
No, 'fraid not.
The radiator is mounted on top of a moulding assembly that doubles as radiator ducting and front deformable crash structure. Removing the front undertray will just give you a nice, clear view of the bottom of this moulding.
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