Armourfend recommended??
Discussion
it is expensive...but mines worked fine for 3 years - so thats 3 re-sprays would have wanted as a minimum...and in between re-sprays the car would look peppered...on a black car with white undercoat armoufend is worth it !
I didnt have it for the 1st year and it looked like a 100K mile old car after 20K miles...then had a front end-respray and armourfend
Guess it depends on use - do 3-5K mile a year on the road and you might not get that many chips...do 20K miles a year, 10 trackdays and a few airfield days then your car will not in be in perfect condition for more than about 1 month per year...just after its respray
For £500 you should be able to get the whole car done - front, rear clam, sills, mirrors, door pulls etc etc from somewhere like Sinclaires
theres always 2 sides to this and some people cant stomach paying £500 for a load of plastic film (which is really £200 for the kit and labour to fit, then VAT) and others just have it fitted from new....or insurance job...anytime you have an insurance job make sure you get it thrown in for free with the respray
I didnt have it for the 1st year and it looked like a 100K mile old car after 20K miles...then had a front end-respray and armourfend
Guess it depends on use - do 3-5K mile a year on the road and you might not get that many chips...do 20K miles a year, 10 trackdays and a few airfield days then your car will not in be in perfect condition for more than about 1 month per year...just after its respray
For £500 you should be able to get the whole car done - front, rear clam, sills, mirrors, door pulls etc etc from somewhere like Sinclaires
theres always 2 sides to this and some people cant stomach paying £500 for a load of plastic film (which is really £200 for the kit and labour to fit, then VAT) and others just have it fitted from new....or insurance job...anytime you have an insurance job make sure you get it thrown in for free with the respray
there are also cheaper options as you read some threads around folie on the car, normaly I hate stickers or folie on a car...but as seen so much stone chips on thsoe cars I have to see what I do...when there are already chips then I let it be and see how it looks, because first thing for me that counts is driving pleasure...but when the car looks like new...I could be tempted though.
How about some strong paints? anyone experienced those? or are those still to hard so break when a stone hits the car...hm...rubberspray then?
GTRene
How about some strong paints? anyone experienced those? or are those still to hard so break when a stone hits the car...hm...rubberspray then?
GTRene
"TOO EXPENSIVE tell me it isnt and you would be a liar."
Well as I want to keep my pride and joy looking like new then I might have needed a couple of resprays by now - not to mention the fact that it would start looking peppered again in between.
So yeh Armourfend is pricey, but over a number of years no more so than multiple resprays.
Dunc
>> Edited by dss123 on Saturday 18th February 21:36
Well as I want to keep my pride and joy looking like new then I might have needed a couple of resprays by now - not to mention the fact that it would start looking peppered again in between.
So yeh Armourfend is pricey, but over a number of years no more so than multiple resprays.
Dunc
>> Edited by dss123 on Saturday 18th February 21:36
No, because armourfend does mark and after a while it tends to lift. You cant polish it so it doesnt look like part of the car. I am not against it in principle but when I looked at doing my car it didnt stack up economically. There are loads of others out there, they are probably cheaper.
If it was cheaper I would use it but it lasts about as long as a good respray and is more expensive.
It was more expensive than a quality respray. There is a lotus kit that is going on my car, it is smaller but costs far less. So far it is the best compromise (unless you have a black car!)
If it was cheaper I would use it but it lasts about as long as a good respray and is more expensive.
It was more expensive than a quality respray. There is a lotus kit that is going on my car, it is smaller but costs far less. So far it is the best compromise (unless you have a black car!)
My car had the lower front and sill resprayed as part of the deal when I bought it. Both areas were peppered with chips expecially the sills and IMO the paint work was of poor quality. The car was from a dealer but was hpi'd and i spoke to the only previous owner so im confident that this was factory paint.
The previous owner had the car 5 months and did under 2k miles from new and as mentioned accumilated loads of chips. I have now had the car 10 months and covered 7k miles and there still are virtually no chips in these areas. This is something that I attribute to a higher quality of paint work applied during the respray that is more resiliant to chipping.
My point being that in my experience a respray can be worth it just to upgrade from the lotus spray job and will significantly increase resilance to chiping on its own.
>> Edited by ChristianM on Saturday 18th February 23:54
The previous owner had the car 5 months and did under 2k miles from new and as mentioned accumilated loads of chips. I have now had the car 10 months and covered 7k miles and there still are virtually no chips in these areas. This is something that I attribute to a higher quality of paint work applied during the respray that is more resiliant to chipping.
My point being that in my experience a respray can be worth it just to upgrade from the lotus spray job and will significantly increase resilance to chiping on its own.
>> Edited by ChristianM on Saturday 18th February 23:54
ChristianM said:
My car had the lower front and sill resprayed as part of the deal when I bought it. Both areas were peppered with chips expecially the sills and IMO the paint work was of poor quality. The car was from a dealer but was hpi'd and i spoke to the only previous owner so im confident that this was factory paint.
The previous owner had the car 5 months and did under 2k miles from new and as mentioned accumilated loads of chips. I have now had the car 10 months and covered 7k miles and there still are virtually no chips in these areas. This is something that I attribute to a higher quality of paint work applied during the respray that is more resiliant to chipping.
My point being that in my experience a respray can be worth it just to upgrade from the lotus spray job and will significantly increase resilance to chiping on its own.
Good point also
I don't like stonechips ofcorse, but I'm also no fan of plastics on my car...hm...so a good job of respray is also worth considering I guess, I once saw a lambo gallardo new with plastic in the showroom, and when I looked up close I though
he wearing a condom...hm, anyway I did not like it on that car, other colores I don't know... GTRene
I've had 2 Elise S1's, one with Armorfend and one with Invictashield (a 3M film).
The latter (I believe) is a better option for 3 reasons:
a) It comes as a kit in several sections for the Elise, so if one part chips or cuts, you replace only that piece (for A-fend you have to replace the lot)
b) It does not seem to tarnish and yellow like Armorfend
c) The kit is £145. With 4 hours labour to fit, "you do the math" vs the £500 odd that Sinclaires will charge for A-fend.
Make no mistake, A-fend IS good, and I don't think the price Sinc's and others charge is THAT bad, they charge at their labour rate, do a good job etc. I decided to save a little and try something new.
The key, as bogie says, is to make sure the surface it's applied to is very clean first off. I gave my car a thorough clean with Meguiars 3-step (but didn't apply wax - so deep paint clean and polish) before I had the film put on. When the rest of the car is gleaming you can hardly see the lines apart from in a couple of places... which are far less noticeable than the stone chips which would be there if the film wasn't.
>> Edited by S Works on Sunday 19th February 11:32
The latter (I believe) is a better option for 3 reasons:
a) It comes as a kit in several sections for the Elise, so if one part chips or cuts, you replace only that piece (for A-fend you have to replace the lot)
b) It does not seem to tarnish and yellow like Armorfend
c) The kit is £145. With 4 hours labour to fit, "you do the math" vs the £500 odd that Sinclaires will charge for A-fend.
Make no mistake, A-fend IS good, and I don't think the price Sinc's and others charge is THAT bad, they charge at their labour rate, do a good job etc. I decided to save a little and try something new.
The key, as bogie says, is to make sure the surface it's applied to is very clean first off. I gave my car a thorough clean with Meguiars 3-step (but didn't apply wax - so deep paint clean and polish) before I had the film put on. When the rest of the car is gleaming you can hardly see the lines apart from in a couple of places... which are far less noticeable than the stone chips which would be there if the film wasn't.
>> Edited by S Works on Sunday 19th February 11:32
S Works said:
I've had 2 Elise S1's, one with Armorfend and one with Invictashield (a 3M film).
The latter (I believe) is a better option for 3 reasons:
a) It comes as a kit in several sections for the Elise, so if one part chips or cuts, you replace only that piece (for A-fend you have to replace the lot)
b) It does not seem to tarnish and yellow like Armorfend
c) The kit is £145. With 4 hours labour to fit, "you do the math" vs the £500 odd that Sinclaires will charge for A-fend.
Make no mistake, A-fend IS good, and I don't think the price Sinc's and others charge is THAT bad, they charge at their labour rate, do a good job etc. I decided to save a little and try something new.
The key, as bogie says, is to make sure the surface it's applied to is very clean first off. I gave my car a thorough clean with Meguiars 3-step (but didn't apply wax - so deep paint clean and polish) before I had the film put on. When the rest of the car is gleaming you can hardly see the lines apart from in a couple of places... which are far less noticeable than the stone chips which would be there if the film wasn't.
That Invictashield you talked about sounds like a fare price and the way I read this comes in more parts?then armorfend?or meaning you can order just the piece yu want?, and you did that job yourself? is that a easy to do job? 4 hours sounds ok, but do you use any tools? like hairdryer?or soapwaterspray and a window-puller for airbubbles? like you use for putting plastic on home windows for decoration and that way you can still move it a bit to correct it on the perfect place? and let it dry for a while? or just good temp in garage and stick it up? I guess not when you say 4 hours?
cheers
GTRene
>> Edited by GTRene on Sunday 19th February 12:40
gooby said:
armourfend does mark and after a while it tends to lift.
After 6 years mine hasn't.
gooby said:
You cant polish it so it doesnt look like part of the car.
Don't need to - it is very glossy anyway.
gooby said:
it didnt stack up economically.
It has for me.
gooby said:
There are loads of others out there, they are probably cheaper.
But not as good.
gooby said:
It was more expensive than a quality respray.
But cheaper than 2 quality resprays and looks spottless all the time.
petros said:
Be careful what you say about armourfend, some of their people can get a little tetchy about criticism
I'll get my coat
Dunc
Guys,
If you are going to install the film yourself, its best to start with a very clean surface. When we install, we will wash the car down then clay the entire area to be covered. Then make sure you lubricate the surface really well before sticking down.
The problem with most films are that you will need to trim to fit so becareful with the scalpel.
Also make sure the area you are working in is as dust free as you can get it.Also as warm as well as this will help the film stick better.
Dont wash the car for 4-7 days to allow the chemical bonding to happen. Once this time has gone then wash it as usual and wax the film as well as the rest of the paintwork.
We install Paintshield and we always get the customer to wax the car as regualrly as possible.
The longer you allow to prep the surface the better the install will be. Trust me...
As for the comment about the film lifting, if fitted correctly there should be no lifting experienced. If you do then recall the fitter who should sort it out free of charge.
Hope this helps
Kev
If you are going to install the film yourself, its best to start with a very clean surface. When we install, we will wash the car down then clay the entire area to be covered. Then make sure you lubricate the surface really well before sticking down.
The problem with most films are that you will need to trim to fit so becareful with the scalpel.
Also make sure the area you are working in is as dust free as you can get it.Also as warm as well as this will help the film stick better.
Dont wash the car for 4-7 days to allow the chemical bonding to happen. Once this time has gone then wash it as usual and wax the film as well as the rest of the paintwork.
We install Paintshield and we always get the customer to wax the car as regualrly as possible.
The longer you allow to prep the surface the better the install will be. Trust me...
As for the comment about the film lifting, if fitted correctly there should be no lifting experienced. If you do then recall the fitter who should sort it out free of charge.
Hope this helps
Kev
GTRene said:
That Invictashield you talked about sounds like a fare price and the way I read this comes in more parts?then armorfend?or meaning you can order just the piece yu want?
Yes, it comes in pieces pre-cut to the correct template for the car.
GTRene said:
...and you did that job yourself? is that a easy to do job? 4 hours sounds ok, but do you use any tools? like hairdryer?or soapwaterspray and a window-puller for airbubbles? like you use for putting plastic on home windows for decoration and that way you can still move it a bit to correct it on the perfect place? and let it dry for a while? or just good temp in garage and stick it up? I guess not when you say 4 hours?
cheers
GTRene
No I didn't do it myself. A good friend who runs a vinyl business fitted it for me and did a superb job. He used all the tools you noted above and it was fitted in his workshop.
As noted by our friend from the valeters above, you can polish over it if you want but the key is preparation and then leaving the film to settle.
Thanks S Works, so it ectualy works almost the same way as the vinyl does on the windows from houses? only cars are very curved so a bit different and more difficult to get it as one with the car...but it can be done by yourself if you have the patience...
also I think in theorie the plastic keeps the paint under it a bit "softer" so it can not break so fast...
GTRene
also I think in theorie the plastic keeps the paint under it a bit "softer" so it can not break so fast...
GTRene
GTRene said:
Thanks S Works, so it ectualy works almost the same way as the vinyl does on the windows from houses? only cars are very curved so a bit different and more difficult to get it as one with the car...but it can be done by yourself if you have the patience...
I guess it works in a similar way. I understand the film to be somewhat breathable so the paint and fibreglass doesn't "sweat" once it's applied.
To get it on and done properly takes a great amount of time and patience. Also having the right tools and the experience of having done it on other vehicles for sure would be invaluable. Personally I wouldn't bother trying to do it myself, having someone fit it correctly who know's what they are doing is worth the small premium in cost. You don't get a second chance if you screw it up at home.
GTRene said:
...also I think in theorie the plastic keeps the paint under it a bit "softer" so it can not break so fast...
GTRene
No idea to be honest.
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