My new PTP 165 wont idle :(
Discussion
Just bought my first Elise and picked it up over the weekend 
Wonderful handling, quick in a straight line however it will not idle when cold
. As soon as the car is warm no problem.
At the moment I am not ruling out a problem between the back for the seat and the seating wheel but surly it should not just cut out at a junction when I stop or turn a corner? I know I have to give it a small amount of throttle when starting it however, it a tad embarrassing when attempting to stop at a set of light and it just cuts out.
Any ideas ?
Wonderful handling, quick in a straight line however it will not idle when cold
. As soon as the car is warm no problem.At the moment I am not ruling out a problem between the back for the seat and the seating wheel but surly it should not just cut out at a junction when I stop or turn a corner? I know I have to give it a small amount of throttle when starting it however, it a tad embarrassing when attempting to stop at a set of light and it just cuts out.
Any ideas ?
Standard PTP165 ECU is a 'piggyback' system to the original Lotus ECU. PTP have now done away with this piggyback option as it doesn't maintain a good idle at all, and fit an Emerald ECU (and vernier cam pulleys if required.) The Emerald is fully mappable and gives a perfect idle - needs mapping correctly for cold starts though. Do you know which ECU you have fitted?
If it's a piggyback ECU then try resetting it.
1. Ignition to position II
2. Pump the accerator pedal 3 times ALL the way from the top to the bottom
3. Switch off the ignition and take the key out.
Now start the engine as normal, it'll be a bit lumpy as the ecu is now re-learning mixtures etc...it'll take a few hundred miles for it to settle down properly....
1. Ignition to position II
2. Pump the accerator pedal 3 times ALL the way from the top to the bottom
3. Switch off the ignition and take the key out.
Now start the engine as normal, it'll be a bit lumpy as the ecu is now re-learning mixtures etc...it'll take a few hundred miles for it to settle down properly....
ptp170 said:
If it's a piggyback ECU then try resetting it.
1. Ignition to position II
2. Pump the accerator pedal 3 times ALL the way from the top to the bottom
3. Switch off the ignition and take the key out.
Now start the engine as normal, it'll be a bit lumpy as the ecu is now re-learning mixtures etc...it'll take a few hundred miles for it to settle down properly....
That's the procedure for TPS reset - you'll need to pump the pedal 5 times from memory. Worth budgeting for an Emerald in the future though - www.dvapower.co.uk - you may struggle to get the car through an MOT without.1. Ignition to position II
2. Pump the accerator pedal 3 times ALL the way from the top to the bottom
3. Switch off the ignition and take the key out.
Now start the engine as normal, it'll be a bit lumpy as the ecu is now re-learning mixtures etc...it'll take a few hundred miles for it to settle down properly....
Pretty silly advice isn't it! saying that it's the same with the Emerald ECU until you get the cold start sorted, you havs to hold the revs on (1,200 - to 1,500 is plenty though) for the first 15- 20 seconds otherwise it can stall in cold weather. On the S2 this is because the Emerald does not make any use of the Idle Air Control Valve (a controlled air leak which helps to maintain an idle at cold.)
rfoster said:
ptp170 said:
If it's a piggyback ECU then try resetting it.
1. Ignition to position II
2. Pump the accerator pedal 3 times ALL the way from the top to the bottom
3. Switch off the ignition and take the key out.
Now start the engine as normal, it'll be a bit lumpy as the ecu is now re-learning mixtures etc...it'll take a few hundred miles for it to settle down properly....
That's the procedure for TPS reset - you'll need to pump the pedal 5 times from memory. Worth budgeting for an Emerald in the future though - www.dvapower.co.uk - you may struggle to get the car through an MOT without.1. Ignition to position II
2. Pump the accerator pedal 3 times ALL the way from the top to the bottom
3. Switch off the ignition and take the key out.
Now start the engine as normal, it'll be a bit lumpy as the ecu is now re-learning mixtures etc...it'll take a few hundred miles for it to settle down properly....
maybe its different for s1's and s2's?
S2 dosent work like that at all.
Where did you buy the car from? was it a dealer? if so id take it back and get them to sort it.
If it was private then you dont have much choice (maybe you test drove it when warm?) ..Ive heard of loads of people with the PTP165 kit with idle/mapping issues - the best resolution was to go to www.dvapower.co.uk, get verniers and and Emerald fitted and get it mapped properly
Where did you buy the car from? was it a dealer? if so id take it back and get them to sort it.
If it was private then you dont have much choice (maybe you test drove it when warm?) ..Ive heard of loads of people with the PTP165 kit with idle/mapping issues - the best resolution was to go to www.dvapower.co.uk, get verniers and and Emerald fitted and get it mapped properly
Well tried the reving technique (about 1500 rpm) the neighbours now hate me It does seem better but still pops bang and generaly sounds crap until about 1500 rpm then everything sounds as it should. I got the car private on here http://www.pistonheads.com/sales/225273.htm
If this is a known issue with the piggy back ECU then fine, Looks like I will be saving for an Emerald/Pullies providing it will sort it.
It does seem better but still pops bang and generaly sounds crap until about 1500 rpm then everything sounds as it should. I got the car private on here http://www.pistonheads.com/sales/225273.htmIf this is a known issue with the piggy back ECU then fine, Looks like I will be saving for an Emerald/Pullies providing it will sort it.
Edited by Stig95 on Saturday 1st September 21:34
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