Where does my coolant go?

[tom_burnley]

This has been brewing for a while - and it seems to be getting worse....

I have to top up my coolant almost daily - it seems to loose coolant even whilst at standstill. It used to loose coolant at a slower pace, but has been this has been getting a lot worse recently. There's no sign of the dreaded HGF, the header tank and sump oil ( after a recent oilchange ) were all clear of the gooey stuff. So there must be a leak .?

How do you diagnose a leak - is there an easy way - or do you have to sit and watch all the pipes unill you see it 'actually leaking'

The Car itself has been 'outside' most of the autumn winter - so I guess the ice/freezing effect could have made things worse

Help required please?

[NWTony]

I'll get in first before everyone else says it - the coolant normally sits on the minimum mark when cold or sometimes just below. Only worry about it if it drops below that!

[piooly]

check hose joints around the car for starters,

check the underneath of the radiator for leaks, could have a slight crack.

coolant tank cap may be leaking pressure. (do it hiss when you turn the car off after arun)

failing that, not sure.....

[Philygumbo]

My car has started to do the same. As Olly says the connections need to be checked, could be anywhere. There are ally pipes running from front to back with hoses at each end. I think there is a known issue with the radiators, better ones are available, which are all ally and take more pressure.I think we both need to look at SELOC Techwiki.
Best of luck,
Phil.

[slatess1]

This might be the time of year or something as mine has started doing this?!? I got scared so put the car into hanger 111 and they checked all hoses, pipes and radiator for fractures, leaks, holes etc but nothing wrong?!? Also cap has pressure 'hiss' when undone. Im pretty much filling up on a 2weekly basis

[crackthatoff]

Philygumbo said:

My car has started to do the same. As Olly says the connections need to be checked, could be anywhere. There are ally pipes running from front to back with hoses at each end. I think there is a known issue with the radiators, better ones are available, which are all ally and take more pressure.I think we both need to look at SELOC Techwiki.
Best of luck,
Phil.

got me a splangly alli one.... but its a clam off job in the region of 600 notes for labour and an elise parts radiator iirc from an indi.
(don't let it blow its bloody dangerous, sprays coolant all over the drivers side of the widscreen)

[Gfun]

NWTony said:

I'll get in first before everyone else says it - the coolant normally sits on the minimum mark when cold or sometimes just below. Only worry about it if it drops below that!

No really guys he is telling the truth - used to top up all the time and look for leaks then I left it about 1/2inch below the coolant line and it hasent moved since.

If it was leaking in this cold weather you would see and smell it.

Only wory if it drops below the average 'sub minimum' line then top it up and let it tick over till it gets nice and hot and you will find your leak (but remember where the tank over flow vents to)

[R.P.M]

Sorry to be all doom and gloom but no visible gunk dosnt mean HGF isnt around the corner.

Often the large jubilee style clips can creep off the inlet/outlet of the rad, but more likley your rad itself will be leaking. This happens where the centre ali section is crimped onto the steel end plates. It's here at the join where the crappy steel corrodes, which leads to coolant loss. just another poorly made component.

clam off and on should be no more than 5 hours labour max, so you can work your cost out from that.

I can recommend as mentioned above the elise parts ali rad. it really is a nice thing.

http://www.eliseparts.com/shop/index.php?main_page...

whilst the clams off I would also change both the inlet and outlet hoses for new, and make sure you have a look for any 'goo' in the hoses as well.

HTH

RPM

[Talkwrench]

Assuming its a 'K' series engine, two places to check for leaks.
Head gaskets sometimes leak externally, particularly on the exhaust side of the block - so check for telltail stains down the block.
This indicates a head gasket waiting to let go......
The water pump is another favourite spot for hard-to-find leaking.
The only way to check properly is to remove the timing belt cover and look at the engine block behind the belt. The pump is prone to weeping from the front seal and will leave a stain running down from the pulley. Often, the water never reaches the floor as it evaporates with engine heat.
Pumps should always be changed when the belt is changed - or at least every other belt change.
Needless to say, the post about not overfilling the expansion tank may well solve your problem!

[tom_burnley]

NWTony said:

I'll get in first before everyone else says it - the coolant normally sits on the minimum mark when cold or sometimes just below. Only worry about it if it drops below that!

I knew this one : but the level often gets so low you can hardly see the coolant in the header tank. I think that's a little dangerous - don't really want air to get in the system. I've got another B-service due in April, and I'll ask them to find the leak, if I don't find it first.

Had a new header tank recently ( maybe that's it ) because the old one was cracked

R.P.M said:

Sorry to be all doom and gloom but no visible gunk dosnt mean HGF isnt around the corner

:-) Thanks

R.P.M said:

I can recommend as mentioned above the elise parts ali rad. it really is a nice thing.

Been looking at just this


What I was looking for is a methodology to diagnose the leak? Is it just visual inspection... TalkWrench - very usefull tips, will look for all these over the weekend

[Beachbum]

Do you have a garage you can park it in overnight. If you are losing coolant whilst the car is not even turning over, then I would suggest topping up the header tank and leaving it overnight, or if possible a couple of days. If you have a leak, you'll get a puddle.

[JTBUSH]

Could be your heater matrix