Coolant issues
Discussion
Hmmmm, worried Elise owner here.
I seem to be using quite alot of coolant recently. Obviously my main worry is head gasket failure so I've been checking the oil and water bottle regularly and there is no sign of mayo in either. temperature has been about normal, sitting between 86 and 88, going up when stationary at lights etc. Strange thing happened today, I topped up the bottle which took I'd say about 200mls at most and then set off, everything was normal but about 3 miles into the journey, cruising along about 70ish (really!) and the temperature went up for no reason to 93 before dropping back to gradually to 87.
Also, the water tank seems to be under pressure at all times, even when the car has been sitting 36 hours? I release the cap and there is a hiss of pressure escaping and the level of coolant goes up.
I seem to be using quite alot of coolant recently. Obviously my main worry is head gasket failure so I've been checking the oil and water bottle regularly and there is no sign of mayo in either. temperature has been about normal, sitting between 86 and 88, going up when stationary at lights etc. Strange thing happened today, I topped up the bottle which took I'd say about 200mls at most and then set off, everything was normal but about 3 miles into the journey, cruising along about 70ish (really!) and the temperature went up for no reason to 93 before dropping back to gradually to 87.
Also, the water tank seems to be under pressure at all times, even when the car has been sitting 36 hours? I release the cap and there is a hiss of pressure escaping and the level of coolant goes up.
It could well be early symptoms of HGF; if it's exhaust gas that's pressurising the expansion tank, it's easily and cheaply checked by doing a chemical test on the coolant (which will detect the dissolved exhaust gasses). Ring round a few of your local garages to fine one who can do it for you - should only cost £20-£30 tops (last one I had done was a tenner, but that was a few years ago).
Apart from HGF, the other weak point for coolant loss on K-series Elises are loose radiator hose connections at the front (remove the wheel arch liner to check) or failed inlet manifold gasket.
Apart from HGF, the other weak point for coolant loss on K-series Elises are loose radiator hose connections at the front (remove the wheel arch liner to check) or failed inlet manifold gasket.
Another potential area of leaking is the water pump. It can't be seen as it hides under the cam belt covers and the water often evaporates as it dribbles down the engine block but there are often telltale stains running from the drive pulley. I recommend changing the pump every other cam belt change. It only takes 10 minutes once the belt is off and the pumps are relatively inexpensive. I've just done a HGF on an MG TF caused through overheating. Only coolant loss was from the water pump seal - car mileage 37k.
The coolant level has always been below the minimum, rising to the bottom line when warm, but it's lower than that on sitting now. I'll have to get it to a garage I think and have some diagnostics done. Bit of a bugger as I just had a lot of work done at DVA and the gasket was refitted with the correct tolerances / clearances.
I'll let youknow how it turns out.
Just in case it makes a difference, 37K miles on the clock, always warmed up from cold, water to temperature then another 5 minutes before going above 3.5k revs. Thanks for the replies anyway.
I'll let youknow how it turns out.
Just in case it makes a difference, 37K miles on the clock, always warmed up from cold, water to temperature then another 5 minutes before going above 3.5k revs. Thanks for the replies anyway.
Mine was doing this and it was HGF in the end. Very early stages so looks like you might be lucky and sustain no damage. Nip it into a garage and they can do a exhaust gas test on the soolant bottle. Will only cost you about £5 and take minutes and you will know for sure then if its HGF. Mine had no mayo either, again, caught it early. Get it checked.
Update.
Took the car to the garage near mine and they performed a coolant gas test with a squeasy thing filled with blue liquid (stop me if I'm going to fast!). No sign of any exhaust gas in the header tank.
He suggested it may be a thermostat problem and told me to check the top pipe (the thick one with the bleed valve on it next to the block , about halfway down the side)) once I'd ran it. Drove about 6 miles at 88, taking it easy and checked it when I got to work. The pipe was luke warm, significantly cooler than other pipe work leading to the header tank. Is this indicative of anything?
Not using a great deal of water if any but it's hard to tell as I overfilled it to the halfway point and it has always sat significantly below that.
Any suggestions / thoughts?
Took the car to the garage near mine and they performed a coolant gas test with a squeasy thing filled with blue liquid (stop me if I'm going to fast!). No sign of any exhaust gas in the header tank.
He suggested it may be a thermostat problem and told me to check the top pipe (the thick one with the bleed valve on it next to the block , about halfway down the side)) once I'd ran it. Drove about 6 miles at 88, taking it easy and checked it when I got to work. The pipe was luke warm, significantly cooler than other pipe work leading to the header tank. Is this indicative of anything?
Not using a great deal of water if any but it's hard to tell as I overfilled it to the halfway point and it has always sat significantly below that.
Any suggestions / thoughts?
I've just had my radiator replaced, and didn't notice any major leaks. I did notice a small plume of steam from the front, but only when stationary. There was aparently a small hole in the radiator. Have a quick peek to see if you can see any water sitting in the radiator.
I would say that I noticed a temperature change, but the stack sender had long since turned into a random number generator.
I would say that I noticed a temperature change, but the stack sender had long since turned into a random number generator.
No signs of any leaks at the front, no residue in the crash structure or visible around the radiator. Steam when stationary is often caused by water on the bodywork dripping onto the radiator, but I presume you know that!
I'll probably get a second test at a different garage just top make sure and I'll watch the coolant and oil for signs of contamination. Any chance this is anything to do with the coolant reservoir cap?
I'll keep you all updated as things progress!
I'll probably get a second test at a different garage just top make sure and I'll watch the coolant and oil for signs of contamination. Any chance this is anything to do with the coolant reservoir cap?
I'll keep you all updated as things progress!
Im keeping a key eye on how you progress with this as I too am experiencing coolent issues. Very slowly the level is dropping, and temp is a little irratic at times.
Had the car checked for HGF and its clean. No gasses, no mayo, no oily residue in the tank - nothing. Only coolent loss and no signs of leaks anywhere!!
Dont get it
Had the car checked for HGF and its clean. No gasses, no mayo, no oily residue in the tank - nothing. Only coolent loss and no signs of leaks anywhere!!
Dont get it
Wacattack, sound like a similar issue to me. My temp rises to about 92 or 93 briefly then drops to 87-88 as normal.
More info...
Garage that checked the coolant gas said to check the water pipe with the bleed valve on (down the side of the engine, same side as the reservoir). I've just been out to get a new cap and thermostat and have done about 20 miles, so engine definitely up to temperature and equilibrated. Felt the pipework when I returned and the pipe with the bleed valve in is significantly cooler than the ones leading to the expansion bottle. Does these mean anything - air lock or something?
Anyway, QH don't list Elise parts do I bought the ones for the MGF which according to the website are rated the same. The cap is different in design however having an insert in the middle whilst the one I have now is open, basically like a screwcap on a bottle.
Probems, problems. All help gratefully received!
More info...
Garage that checked the coolant gas said to check the water pipe with the bleed valve on (down the side of the engine, same side as the reservoir). I've just been out to get a new cap and thermostat and have done about 20 miles, so engine definitely up to temperature and equilibrated. Felt the pipework when I returned and the pipe with the bleed valve in is significantly cooler than the ones leading to the expansion bottle. Does these mean anything - air lock or something?
Anyway, QH don't list Elise parts do I bought the ones for the MGF which according to the website are rated the same. The cap is different in design however having an insert in the middle whilst the one I have now is open, basically like a screwcap on a bottle.
Probems, problems. All help gratefully received!
Still banging on!
The thermostat is opening as the radiator is getting warm. The temp readout is pretty constant once it gets to 88ish, the only difference now is that it goes up to about 94 then drops back down to 88,which it didn't do before. The new cap has made no difference as far as I can see, and I'll get the thermostat fitted and bleed and possibly replace the coolant this weekend.
Car is still juddery on start up but runs fine once warm, although it's not seeing anything above 3.5K revs. A post on Seloc suggests that if you red line it (once it's warmed up) in 3rd and the coolant overflows the reservoir, then HGF is confirmed? Anyone know if this is a bona fide way of testing for it?
I've e-mailed Dave Andrews for advice.
The thermostat is opening as the radiator is getting warm. The temp readout is pretty constant once it gets to 88ish, the only difference now is that it goes up to about 94 then drops back down to 88,which it didn't do before. The new cap has made no difference as far as I can see, and I'll get the thermostat fitted and bleed and possibly replace the coolant this weekend.
Car is still juddery on start up but runs fine once warm, although it's not seeing anything above 3.5K revs. A post on Seloc suggests that if you red line it (once it's warmed up) in 3rd and the coolant overflows the reservoir, then HGF is confirmed? Anyone know if this is a bona fide way of testing for it?
I've e-mailed Dave Andrews for advice.
Could be the inlet manifold gasket.
If its stuttery when first starting up it could be you are getting leakage in through a crack in the head. Once running, it will be fine, but when you stop, and as the is warm, the crack will be open and coolant will leak into the bores. Therefore, when you come to start it, you get the stuttery problems. Take the plugs out and see if there is any evidence of coolant in the bores.
If its stuttery when first starting up it could be you are getting leakage in through a crack in the head. Once running, it will be fine, but when you stop, and as the is warm, the crack will be open and coolant will leak into the bores. Therefore, when you come to start it, you get the stuttery problems. Take the plugs out and see if there is any evidence of coolant in the bores.
NWTony said:
Still banging on!
The thermostat is opening as the radiator is getting warm. The temp readout is pretty constant once it gets to 88ish, the only difference now is that it goes up to about 94 then drops back down to 88,which it didn't do before. The new cap has made no difference as far as I can see, and I'll get the thermostat fitted and bleed and possibly replace the coolant this weekend.
Car is still juddery on start up but runs fine once warm, although it's not seeing anything above 3.5K revs. A post on Seloc suggests that if you red line it (once it's warmed up) in 3rd and the coolant overflows the reservoir, then HGF is confirmed? Anyone know if this is a bona fide way of testing for it?
I've e-mailed Dave Andrews for advice.
Mate, im beginning to think we have the same car, my issues are a direct match tp yours bar the juddery when cold. Im really baffled as to whats going onThe thermostat is opening as the radiator is getting warm. The temp readout is pretty constant once it gets to 88ish, the only difference now is that it goes up to about 94 then drops back down to 88,which it didn't do before. The new cap has made no difference as far as I can see, and I'll get the thermostat fitted and bleed and possibly replace the coolant this weekend.
Car is still juddery on start up but runs fine once warm, although it's not seeing anything above 3.5K revs. A post on Seloc suggests that if you red line it (once it's warmed up) in 3rd and the coolant overflows the reservoir, then HGF is confirmed? Anyone know if this is a bona fide way of testing for it?
I've e-mailed Dave Andrews for advice.
wacattack said:
NWTony said:
Still banging on!
The thermostat is opening as the radiator is getting warm. The temp readout is pretty constant once it gets to 88ish, the only difference now is that it goes up to about 94 then drops back down to 88,which it didn't do before. The new cap has made no difference as far as I can see, and I'll get the thermostat fitted and bleed and possibly replace the coolant this weekend.
Car is still juddery on start up but runs fine once warm, although it's not seeing anything above 3.5K revs. A post on Seloc suggests that if you red line it (once it's warmed up) in 3rd and the coolant overflows the reservoir, then HGF is confirmed? Anyone know if this is a bona fide way of testing for it?
I've e-mailed Dave Andrews for advice.
Mate, im beginning to think we have the same car, my issues are a direct match tp yours bar the juddery when cold. Im really baffled as to whats going onThe thermostat is opening as the radiator is getting warm. The temp readout is pretty constant once it gets to 88ish, the only difference now is that it goes up to about 94 then drops back down to 88,which it didn't do before. The new cap has made no difference as far as I can see, and I'll get the thermostat fitted and bleed and possibly replace the coolant this weekend.
Car is still juddery on start up but runs fine once warm, although it's not seeing anything above 3.5K revs. A post on Seloc suggests that if you red line it (once it's warmed up) in 3rd and the coolant overflows the reservoir, then HGF is confirmed? Anyone know if this is a bona fide way of testing for it?
I've e-mailed Dave Andrews for advice.
NWTony said:
wacattack said:
NWTony said:
Still banging on!
The thermostat is opening as the radiator is getting warm. The temp readout is pretty constant once it gets to 88ish, the only difference now is that it goes up to about 94 then drops back down to 88,which it didn't do before. The new cap has made no difference as far as I can see, and I'll get the thermostat fitted and bleed and possibly replace the coolant this weekend.
Car is still juddery on start up but runs fine once warm, although it's not seeing anything above 3.5K revs. A post on Seloc suggests that if you red line it (once it's warmed up) in 3rd and the coolant overflows the reservoir, then HGF is confirmed? Anyone know if this is a bona fide way of testing for it?
I've e-mailed Dave Andrews for advice.
Mate, im beginning to think we have the same car, my issues are a direct match tp yours bar the juddery when cold. Im really baffled as to whats going onThe thermostat is opening as the radiator is getting warm. The temp readout is pretty constant once it gets to 88ish, the only difference now is that it goes up to about 94 then drops back down to 88,which it didn't do before. The new cap has made no difference as far as I can see, and I'll get the thermostat fitted and bleed and possibly replace the coolant this weekend.
Car is still juddery on start up but runs fine once warm, although it's not seeing anything above 3.5K revs. A post on Seloc suggests that if you red line it (once it's warmed up) in 3rd and the coolant overflows the reservoir, then HGF is confirmed? Anyone know if this is a bona fide way of testing for it?
I've e-mailed Dave Andrews for advice.
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