Post Storage Restart
Discussion
Hi all,
I'm an expat based here in Singapore... my 111R will have been in storage for almost 2 years when I return to the UK for a holiday later this year, so I'll be eager to have a long awaited blast. As part of giving it a mandatory (DIY) service before use, I'll obviously need to start the engine to warm it up for an oil/filter change. But, I want/need to turn the engine over on just the battery with the plugs removed to get some initial oil flowing before proper start up. However, along with removing the plugs I was thinking of pulling the connectors off the injectors or removing the fuel pump fuse to prevent 'bore washing' the cylinders with unused fuel... is this feasible without causing any ECU fault codes or is there a better alternative method ?
I'm an expat based here in Singapore... my 111R will have been in storage for almost 2 years when I return to the UK for a holiday later this year, so I'll be eager to have a long awaited blast. As part of giving it a mandatory (DIY) service before use, I'll obviously need to start the engine to warm it up for an oil/filter change. But, I want/need to turn the engine over on just the battery with the plugs removed to get some initial oil flowing before proper start up. However, along with removing the plugs I was thinking of pulling the connectors off the injectors or removing the fuel pump fuse to prevent 'bore washing' the cylinders with unused fuel... is this feasible without causing any ECU fault codes or is there a better alternative method ?
Although what you wish to do will cause no harm at all, I'm not sure it is necessary anymore to prime engines oilwise.
If you used a top synthetic oil then it should still be clinging to all parts and have enough protection film for those first few seconds where the oil pressure builds and pumps new blood around the engine.
Also, it is not a good idea (especially if you do all the extra hard work) to let the engine idle for a long time 'to warm it for an oil change'. No, go for a 20 minute run or so with the oil you have, then change it.
Having said that, on my motorbikes I used to remove the plugs and spray some WD40 down the bores, and remove the camshaft cover so I could coat the top-end in oil.
Yes, it will and does help, but this was before the onset of synthetic oils.(And then the top-end seemed well oiled, tbh)
Nah, I'd just turn the key and roll the car easily out of there.....
If you used a top synthetic oil then it should still be clinging to all parts and have enough protection film for those first few seconds where the oil pressure builds and pumps new blood around the engine.
Also, it is not a good idea (especially if you do all the extra hard work) to let the engine idle for a long time 'to warm it for an oil change'. No, go for a 20 minute run or so with the oil you have, then change it.
Having said that, on my motorbikes I used to remove the plugs and spray some WD40 down the bores, and remove the camshaft cover so I could coat the top-end in oil.
Yes, it will and does help, but this was before the onset of synthetic oils.(And then the top-end seemed well oiled, tbh)
Nah, I'd just turn the key and roll the car easily out of there.....
peter_england99 said:
I wouldn't spray WD40 into the cylinders. WD40 is silicon based and silicon will kill your O2 sensor(s). Remember the Tesco fuel contamination event, that was silicon related.
Regards,
Peter.
Good point. Regards,
Peter.
My bikes were dog basic carb engines and would run on any basic oil or fuel. Fuel injection and computerised starts do throw a new spanner in the works.
Interesting Q.
Erm this is not advice as such more a suggestion, but if you push it along in fourth gear twenty meters that will move the pistons a bit in a low effort scenario and generally loosen stuff before the more aggressive start up. Maybe some oil will be slightly pumped as well. Just in case the rings have somehow corroded to the walls or got stuck in their grooves.
Someone will be along shortly to say whether that is a good or bad idea!
Google is your friend of course, what do car restorers do?
Maybe you are being over cautious but i appreciate your thinking, broken or seized rings / scraped bores cause a lot of problems later and might occur at this first start up.
Erm this is not advice as such more a suggestion, but if you push it along in fourth gear twenty meters that will move the pistons a bit in a low effort scenario and generally loosen stuff before the more aggressive start up. Maybe some oil will be slightly pumped as well. Just in case the rings have somehow corroded to the walls or got stuck in their grooves.
Someone will be along shortly to say whether that is a good or bad idea!
Google is your friend of course, what do car restorers do?
Maybe you are being over cautious but i appreciate your thinking, broken or seized rings / scraped bores cause a lot of problems later and might occur at this first start up.
peter_england99 said:
I wouldn't spray WD40 into the cylinders. WD40 is silicon based and silicon will kill your O2 sensor(s). Remember the Tesco fuel contamination event, that was silicon related.
Regards,
Peter.
Although I personaly would prefer to use something like redex, WD40 does not contain any silicone.TempusRegards,
Peter.
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