Early 111R brake pedal
Discussion
I am attempting to remove the 1-2cm free play at the top of the pedal, have looked on the Sands site, it is covered, but for the purpose of leveling the pedals for Heel n Toe, not to remove the free play.
Is it the same thing, by adjusting the pedal height, will it remove the free play?
Any clues ......
Is it the same thing, by adjusting the pedal height, will it remove the free play?
Any clues ......
Yes, follow the sands site and also make sure you fully bleed the system (invert calipers, ABS engage, clutch slave etc). And, change the OEM pads to something decent and you will have pin sharp instant, progressive brakes.
Took me a whole weekend to get mine just right including moving the brake pedal pad closer to the gas pedal.
well worth the effort.
Took me a whole weekend to get mine just right including moving the brake pedal pad closer to the gas pedal.
well worth the effort.
chevronb37 said:
I tested an 04 plate 111R and the play at the top of the brake pedal was frightening. I never felt comfortable approaching hazards. I hope you get it sorted, mate. Sorry I can't offer any advice!
Strangely enough, I actually prefer to have a small amount of "dead" movement in the pedal rather than instantly biting.LivinLaVidaLotus said:
chevronb37 said:
I tested an 04 plate 111R and the play at the top of the brake pedal was frightening. I never felt comfortable approaching hazards. I hope you get it sorted, mate. Sorry I can't offer any advice!
Strangely enough, I actually prefer to have a small amount of "dead" movement in the pedal rather than instantly biting.
Quick update to this one.
I spent a couple of hours last weekend fitting yellowstuff pads all round, went well, only issue was the rears. Manual recommended a special tool to wind off the pistons. I improvised, adapted and overcame with a set of snipe nosed pliers. But the book also said to screw the pistons in until the bottom. Well mine did screw in, but never stopped rotating, so I presume they did not bottom? the new pads went in fine, and the brakes/handbrake adusted up ok with a couple of applications.
Anybody else done this and found this?
So far 1st impressions of the yellowstuff pads is very positive, initial bite feels stronger, not gone for the fade yet, as they are still bedding in, I did not renew the discs, so am taking it easy for a couple of hundered miles.
Pedal feels firmer, although the first 10mm still does very little braking. I looked at the brake rod length, but there was only a couple of mm between the pedal and its stop, so decided against any adjustment, besides, it's not really free play, just ineffective movement, if that makes any sense.
Oh, and nearly forgot, had to drill out both rear disc retaining screws, to remove the discs. They are soooooo soft, and the hex socket hole just rounded straight off. Would advise obtaining replacements before starting this job.
I spent a couple of hours last weekend fitting yellowstuff pads all round, went well, only issue was the rears. Manual recommended a special tool to wind off the pistons. I improvised, adapted and overcame with a set of snipe nosed pliers. But the book also said to screw the pistons in until the bottom. Well mine did screw in, but never stopped rotating, so I presume they did not bottom? the new pads went in fine, and the brakes/handbrake adusted up ok with a couple of applications.
Anybody else done this and found this?
So far 1st impressions of the yellowstuff pads is very positive, initial bite feels stronger, not gone for the fade yet, as they are still bedding in, I did not renew the discs, so am taking it easy for a couple of hundered miles.
Pedal feels firmer, although the first 10mm still does very little braking. I looked at the brake rod length, but there was only a couple of mm between the pedal and its stop, so decided against any adjustment, besides, it's not really free play, just ineffective movement, if that makes any sense.
Oh, and nearly forgot, had to drill out both rear disc retaining screws, to remove the discs. They are soooooo soft, and the hex socket hole just rounded straight off. Would advise obtaining replacements before starting this job.
I had the same issue on my 2004 exige. The only solution that worked was to by a "h&t pad" that was made in America (I found the solution via lotustalk.com). Unfortunatley it had sold out, but managed to find one on a japanese website.
Cut a long story short... it made a HUGE difference and made heel and toeing easy, which made the car what it should have been in the first place.
My H&T pad is actually for sale as I sold my exige yesterday without it. I'm selling for £100, pm me if you're interested...
Cut a long story short... it made a HUGE difference and made heel and toeing easy, which made the car what it should have been in the first place.
My H&T pad is actually for sale as I sold my exige yesterday without it. I'm selling for £100, pm me if you're interested...
otolith said:
How complete a solution is the procedure on the Sands site? I didn't realise how reliant I am on H&T. I can drive round it, and I can H&T somewhat awkwardly with the current pedal heights, but it's not ideal.
Lowering the brake is just part of it. I also raised the accelerator. Combined these two adjustments pretty much resolve the issue.I did post links to the instructions but cannot find them anymore using the search. On here somewhere though.
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