Revs
Author
Discussion

ToadHall

Original Poster:

219 posts

208 months

Thursday 11th June 2009
quotequote all
This is a novice question... please be gentle.

i've been changing up when the rev counter says 5 to 6k can i push further ?


Gooby

9,269 posts

257 months

Thursday 11th June 2009
quotequote all
r e v c o u n t e r ?
confused

Mark B

1,653 posts

288 months

Friday 12th June 2009
quotequote all
You haven't seen any of the real go then...

As you have an S1, I would whole heartedly recommend, when pressing on, to change when the needle is in the 6500 - 6700rpm range...

You WILL see a significant difference in performance.




kambites

70,771 posts

244 months

Friday 12th June 2009
quotequote all
As long as the engine is properly up to temperature, you should be fine to push it to about the 7k mark. The S2 has a rev limiter to stop you doing anything really stupid, I'd imagine that the S1 is the same?

Edited by kambites on Friday 12th June 09:05

noodleman

827 posts

236 months

Friday 12th June 2009
quotequote all
Yep, rev limit is 6750. Power is tailing off by then though so normally quicker to change up around 6250.

Beachbum

2,597 posts

254 months

Friday 12th June 2009
quotequote all
Gooby said:
r e v c o u n t e r ?
confused
That comment answers so many questions

Mark B

1,653 posts

288 months

Friday 12th June 2009
quotequote all
noodleman said:
Yep, rev limit is 6750. Power is tailing off by then though so normally quicker to change up around 6250.
Power is tailing off, but at a far shallower gardient than the power rise in the next gear, so best to keep revving to nearer the red line IMHO..

Ikemi

8,610 posts

228 months

Friday 12th June 2009
quotequote all
Hey mate!

Good to see you in an Elise! smile I'm loving the anthracite alloys against the vivid Azure Blue bodywork - Hopefully see it on the A4010 soon biggrin

I'd allow 10 minutes of driving to get the coolant temperature up to 85-90C and a further 10 minutes for the oil to be at optimum temperature, then redline gear changes are fine ... To be honest I very rarely do so myself - I usually change at 5.5-6K.

If you've been ragging the car hard, give it a 5 minute cool down (keep driving in this time though) so all the components can cool naturally. This should in effect help towards preventing a head gasket failure.

See you on the road soon thumbup

ETA: A pub stop is a good idea! Let me know when you're about ...

Edited by Ikemi on Friday 12th June 12:11

Gooby

9,269 posts

257 months

Friday 12th June 2009
quotequote all
Beachbum said:
Gooby said:
r e v c o u n t e r ?
confused
That comment answers so many questions
I have a few questions that you are the answer for!! wink

Beachbum

2,597 posts

254 months

Friday 12th June 2009
quotequote all
Gooby said:
Beachbum said:
Gooby said:
r e v c o u n t e r ?
confused
That comment answers so many questions
I have a few questions that you are the answer for!! wink
Tall, dark, handsome ???

Gooby

9,269 posts

257 months

Friday 12th June 2009
quotequote all
Beachbum said:
Gooby said:
Beachbum said:
Gooby said:
r e v c o u n t e r ?
confused
That comment answers so many questions
I have a few questions that you are the answer for!! wink
Tall, dark, handsome ???
Statement or question?

Beachbum

2,597 posts

254 months

Friday 12th June 2009
quotequote all
Gooby said:
Beachbum said:
Gooby said:
Beachbum said:
Gooby said:
r e v c o u n t e r ?
confused
That comment answers so many questions
I have a few questions that you are the answer for!! wink
Tall, dark, handsome ???
Statement or question?
??? were the clue

ToadHall

Original Poster:

219 posts

208 months

Friday 12th June 2009
quotequote all
Ikemi said:
Hey mate!

Good to see you in an Elise! smile I'm loving the anthracite alloys against the vivid Azure Blue bodywork - Hopefully see it on the A4010 soon biggrin

I'd allow 10 minutes of driving to get the coolant temperature up to 85-90C and a further 10 minutes for the oil to be at optimum temperature, then redline gear changes are fine ... To be honest I very rarely do so myself - I usually change at 5.5-6K.

If you've been ragging the car hard, give it a 5 minute cool down (keep driving in this time though) so all the components can cool naturally. This should in effect help towards preventing a head gasket failure.

See you on the road soon thumbup

ETA: A pub stop is a good idea! Let me know when you're about ...

Edited by Ikemi on Friday 12th June 12:11
Cheers,


You do realise its me that gives you the thumbs up most days as i go past you in my stty fiesta. biggrin

Ikemi

8,610 posts

228 months

Saturday 13th June 2009
quotequote all
ToadHall said:
Ikemi said:
Hey mate!

Good to see you in an Elise! smile I'm loving the anthracite alloys against the vivid Azure Blue bodywork - Hopefully see it on the A4010 soon biggrin

I'd allow 10 minutes of driving to get the coolant temperature up to 85-90C and a further 10 minutes for the oil to be at optimum temperature, then redline gear changes are fine ... To be honest I very rarely do so myself - I usually change at 5.5-6K.

If you've been ragging the car hard, give it a 5 minute cool down (keep driving in this time though) so all the components can cool naturally. This should in effect help towards preventing a head gasket failure.

See you on the road soon thumbup

ETA: A pub stop is a good idea! Let me know when you're about ...

Edited by Ikemi on Friday 12th June 12:11
Cheers,


You do realise its me that gives you the thumbs up most days as i go past you in my stty fiesta. biggrin
Hehe! Yeah, but now the sun is out I expect to see you in the Elise soon wink 'Tis perfect weather!

TIPPER

2,955 posts

242 months

Saturday 13th June 2009
quotequote all
The ideal change up point will be different for each gear and will depend on your engine (no two are quiet the same, if we're being precise!) and gearbox.
I can rev my engine (boggo 120 with induction and sports exhaust but close ratio box) out to 7k in all four lower gears (never tried in fifth) but there isn't any point as I can feel power tailing off.
As a rule of thumb I don't bother using much more than 6,250 rpm on track: the extra is useful 'headroom'.
Don't forget that acceleration is as much a function of the torque the engine is producing as the bhp at given rpm so you need to look at power curves to work out what seem the best change points and then datalog some acceleration runs.
On the road I tend not to wring the engines neck (not very often anyway!) and tend to change up earlier.