dodgy brakes...which pads are best for road use

[aheaton]

hi

I have a totally standard brake set up on my 03 S2 sports tourer.......and it is pants....feels like its going to take an age to stop from fairly modest speeds.

any advice on the best pads to fit in place of the standard - only use for road use - no track days

[TIPPER]

Get or give the brakes a bleed and fit a set of EBC Yellowstuffs.

[Scuffers]

for 100% road use, something like Mintex 1144's are a very decent step up from OEM without breaking the bank, just remember to change *all* of them at the same time....

[21TonyK]

As before. Bleed the brakes properly, inverted calipers, clutch slave etc. Then fit some decent pads, scrap the OEM stuff. I've been using 1144's for road quite happily but found their limits for track use very rapidly!

A proper bleed will make a world of difference.

[S Works]

Agree 100% with the change fluid and bleed comments. If that fails get some braided hoses and get some better pads. If that fails www.carlimits.com

[AC Motors]

Fitted EBC red with EBC drilled & grooved disc to my Chimaera and found them to be excellent.

[piers1]

I have had EBC red pads, but recently went to EBC yellows, and they gave me incredible feel in comparison to standard, and that was on the hairpins of Stelvio, no better test! I also changed the brake fluid.

[piers1]

21TonyK said:

As before. Bleed the brakes properly, inverted calipers, clutch slave etc. Then fit some decent pads, scrap the OEM stuff. I've been using 1144's for road quite happily but found their limits for track use very rapidly!

A proper bleed will make a world of difference.

Tony, inverted calipers/clutch slave, would you mind expanding of these as you can never have enough feel, and I have'nt heard of these? Cheers

[Gad-Westy]

piers1 said:

21TonyK said:

As before. Bleed the brakes properly, inverted calipers, clutch slave etc. Then fit some decent pads, scrap the OEM stuff. I've been using 1144's for road quite happily but found their limits for track use very rapidly!

A proper bleed will make a world of difference.

Tony, inverted calipers/clutch slave, would you mind expanding of these as you can never have enough feel, and I have'nt heard of these? Cheers

I think what was meant is that when bleeding the brakes, the clutch cylinder should also be bleed as it shares the same fluid. Inverting the calipers refers to the front brakes. Because they're twin pot and because of the way they're plumbed, if they're simply bleed in the fitted position, air can remain trapped in the high point at the inner side of the caliper and not escape.

The way around this is to bleed them twice, first in the fitted position and then unbolted and turned upside down. To bleed upside down, you'll need something between the pistons to stop them popping out. I simply left the pads in and swivelled the caliper around to the front of the disc.

I probably haven't explained it that well, but a search on SELOC should clear it up.

ETA, thumbs up Yellowstuff pads as well. ATE Racing Blue is a good bargain fluid as well if you're struggling to decide. Both available from JRT automotive at decent prices.

Edited by Gad-Westy on Monday 21st September 15:35

[21TonyK]

Gad-Westy said:

piers1 said:

21TonyK said:

As before. Bleed the brakes properly, inverted calipers, clutch slave etc. Then fit some decent pads, scrap the OEM stuff. I've been using 1144's for road quite happily but found their limits for track use very rapidly!

A proper bleed will make a world of difference.

Tony, inverted calipers/clutch slave, would you mind expanding of these as you can never have enough feel, and I have'nt heard of these? Cheers

I think what was meant is that when bleeding the brakes, the clutch cylinder should also be bleed as it shares the same fluid. Inverting the calipers refers to the front brakes. Because they're twin pot and because of the way they're plumbed, if they're simply bleed in the fitted position, air can remain trapped in the high point at the inner side of the caliper and not escape.

The way around this is to bleed them twice, first in the fitted position and then unbolted and turned upside down. To bleed upside down, you'll need something between the pistons to stop them popping out. I simply left the pads in and swivelled the caliper around to the front of the disc.

I probably haven't explained it that well, but a search on SELOC should clear it up.

This is a good "how to" guide that should help.

http://www.sandsmuseum.com/cars/elise/experience/m...