Speed 6 running in
Discussion
I have a new Speed 6 3.6 Red Roase with the close ratio gearbox. The engine never sounds as if it's labouring so how do I know when too few revs is to few to avoid over stressing he engine during the running in period?
It seems to be happy at around 2500 RPM (as per the strict running in guidelines) when cruising at more or less a constant speed in any of the gears but when in traffic is 1500-2000 RPM ok or would higher revs be less stressfull? Once warmed up I let the revs go up to 3500 (again, as per the guidelines) but for cruising I've been keeping around 2000-2500, but in town it does drop for the slower speeds sp should I be using lower gears with higher revs (2500)?
It seems to be happy at around 2500 RPM (as per the strict running in guidelines) when cruising at more or less a constant speed in any of the gears but when in traffic is 1500-2000 RPM ok or would higher revs be less stressfull? Once warmed up I let the revs go up to 3500 (again, as per the guidelines) but for cruising I've been keeping around 2000-2500, but in town it does drop for the slower speeds sp should I be using lower gears with higher revs (2500)?
I'm oddly suprised that no-ones posted a reply before now, so here goes with my tuppenworth.
I beleive low down rpm lugging can cause strain on crank and rod bearings which isnt good at the best of times, I think the speed six seems to disgise this due to big engine reasonable low down torque and a light car.
I varied my revs during running avoiding operation sub 2k for prolonged periods and definitely light throttle only during such low rev ranges. They key thing the handbooks states is avoid bar light use below sub xx deg C oil temp, dont lug the engine and no full throttle adn avoid high (+4krpm ?)use, though you do need to excercise it to avoid ring glazing. Dealer advice revolved around driving over switch back and hilly terain using all gears.
AVOID M-Ways, dual carriageways .....
You'll find most manufacturers running guidance is the same. A recent new bike had an oil temp gauge that said low until 50 deg C was shown. the advice was the same for run in though upper rev limit allowed was higher.
I beleive low down rpm lugging can cause strain on crank and rod bearings which isnt good at the best of times, I think the speed six seems to disgise this due to big engine reasonable low down torque and a light car.
I varied my revs during running avoiding operation sub 2k for prolonged periods and definitely light throttle only during such low rev ranges. They key thing the handbooks states is avoid bar light use below sub xx deg C oil temp, dont lug the engine and no full throttle adn avoid high (+4krpm ?)use, though you do need to excercise it to avoid ring glazing. Dealer advice revolved around driving over switch back and hilly terain using all gears.
AVOID M-Ways, dual carriageways .....
You'll find most manufacturers running guidance is the same. A recent new bike had an oil temp gauge that said low until 50 deg C was shown. the advice was the same for run in though upper rev limit allowed was higher.
This is the advice from a few years ago.
JOHN RAVENSCROFT’S TIPS ON MECHANICAL SYMPATHY AND HIS ENGINES!
RUNNING IN
Most importantly, drive fairly normally. Being too gentle with an engine when running in can be as bad as being too rough.
Although it is important to avoid full throttle or over 4,000 rpm during the first 1,000 miles, occasional bursts (c.5 seconds) of 75% throttle up to 4,000 rpm, will help to bed the piston rings in.
FROM COLD
When starting, please be careful not to let it rev straight up so please make sure that you do not give it anything more than a tiny bit of throttle while cranking it over and then lift off as soon as it catches.
Then try to avoid more than 3,000 rpm until the oil (not water) temperature has exceeded 40C, 4,000 rpm until 60C and 7,000 rpm until 80C. If it climbs above 110C, please keep the revs below 5,000 rpm until the oil temperature returns to normal.
JOHN RAVENSCROFT’S TIPS ON MECHANICAL SYMPATHY AND HIS ENGINES!
RUNNING IN
Most importantly, drive fairly normally. Being too gentle with an engine when running in can be as bad as being too rough.
Although it is important to avoid full throttle or over 4,000 rpm during the first 1,000 miles, occasional bursts (c.5 seconds) of 75% throttle up to 4,000 rpm, will help to bed the piston rings in.
FROM COLD
When starting, please be careful not to let it rev straight up so please make sure that you do not give it anything more than a tiny bit of throttle while cranking it over and then lift off as soon as it catches.
Then try to avoid more than 3,000 rpm until the oil (not water) temperature has exceeded 40C, 4,000 rpm until 60C and 7,000 rpm until 80C. If it climbs above 110C, please keep the revs below 5,000 rpm until the oil temperature returns to normal.
Great post idea - am soon to get back a rebuilt Sp6 engine for my 2003 Tuscan so v interested to hear recommendations that the car not be taken on M-Ways or Dual carriageways. Anyone any other advice as I want to make sure that everything is followed strictly to guidance and not see the engine go back again 
I too have the close ratio gearbox, and I always stalled it when pulling off when first fitted! I don't seem to need to come out of 2nd for the first few miles (cant get any quicker than 40 in the traffic!), but I always keep it at 3000 or below for the first few miles, in fact, I drive it as a normal car (i.e.-not bouncing off the limiter, but changing up at between 3 and 4K in most conditions) most of the time, and just have a blast when the mood takes me.
I also admit to religiously sticking to the warm up process as per John Ravenscrofts' doctrine on the procedure. My car is a standard (but blueprinted) 3.6 with almost 20K on the clock (can't use it this week, my week off!!, as I have no bonnet at the mo!!), and I know its been at speeds up to and over 170mph, but has always started first time, I think part of it is luck in choosing the right car, and carefully obeying the running in procedure ( I treat it as being run in every time I drive it for the first few miles. Mechanical empathy is VERY important, I think, with this type of engine, when it’s on song, it is truly stunning!
I also admit to religiously sticking to the warm up process as per John Ravenscrofts' doctrine on the procedure. My car is a standard (but blueprinted) 3.6 with almost 20K on the clock (can't use it this week, my week off!!, as I have no bonnet at the mo!!
), and I know its been at speeds up to and over 170mph, but has always started first time, I think part of it is luck in choosing the right car, and carefully obeying the running in procedure ( I treat it as being run in every time I drive it for the first few miles. Mechanical empathy is VERY important, I think, with this type of engine, when it’s on song, it is truly stunning! Thanks everyone for the advice so far. I'll be sure to keep the revs above 2k to avoid overstressing the engine. I've been doing my best to follow JOHN RAVENSCROFT’S TIPS ON MECHANICAL SYMPATHY. As I live in the Chilterns all the miles so far have been up and down switchbacks and some great B roads so the gear box has been getting a good work out.
Once warmed up (oil 80c) I've been doing the odd blast up to 3500 (never at full throttle though, maybe 50-75%) and it's been great! The Tamora is so much easier to drive than my Tuscan ever was.
Once warmed up (oil 80c) I've been doing the odd blast up to 3500 (never at full throttle though, maybe 50-75%) and it's been great! The Tamora is so much easier to drive than my Tuscan ever was.
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