Full Upgrade Car Audio
Discussion
Hi all - Happy Easter.
So I accidentally went down the rabbit hole of upgrading my car speakers which came with tweeters and a crossover box, which then led to me wanting a sub, which then led to me wanting an amp - help.
So with the new speakers, crossover box, and the tweeters it's fairly simple I think; take the cable that went previously to the speaker, now run it into the crossover box as an input + -, run another pair + - to the tweeter, and the final pair of wires to + - to speaker, done.
Now we add the sub and the amp, and I'm pretty much out of my depth. As far as the speakers/tweeters go it must remain connected the same way on the crossover box, but then the input will now come from the amp, and the amp will have it's power direct from the battery with an inline fuse, and will have an earth. I have no idea how the sub fits in the circuit, or anything between that really.
I wondered if anybody knew an informative video, or had some experience doing anything similar.
Currently I have a Pioneer AVH-Z7200DAB, i'm looking to add focal e100 KE, a focal ISUB active (not 2.1), and Focal impulse 4.320 Amp. Is this system balanced, and if it is then where do I go from here?
Thanks a lot
So I accidentally went down the rabbit hole of upgrading my car speakers which came with tweeters and a crossover box, which then led to me wanting a sub, which then led to me wanting an amp - help.
So with the new speakers, crossover box, and the tweeters it's fairly simple I think; take the cable that went previously to the speaker, now run it into the crossover box as an input + -, run another pair + - to the tweeter, and the final pair of wires to + - to speaker, done.
Now we add the sub and the amp, and I'm pretty much out of my depth. As far as the speakers/tweeters go it must remain connected the same way on the crossover box, but then the input will now come from the amp, and the amp will have it's power direct from the battery with an inline fuse, and will have an earth. I have no idea how the sub fits in the circuit, or anything between that really.
I wondered if anybody knew an informative video, or had some experience doing anything similar.
Currently I have a Pioneer AVH-Z7200DAB, i'm looking to add focal e100 KE, a focal ISUB active (not 2.1), and Focal impulse 4.320 Amp. Is this system balanced, and if it is then where do I go from here?
Thanks a lot
It's for a Land Rover Defender 2004.
So having unboxed the amp and sub I have realised I ordered the Impulse 4.320 without the plug and play adapter (Focal IYIMPULSE “Y” Adapter Cable – Plug & Play Converts Focal Impulse 4.320 to ISO) so i think I need to order this.
I've also found out they both require a seperate 12 gauge fused power line from the battery.
So having unboxed the amp and sub I have realised I ordered the Impulse 4.320 without the plug and play adapter (Focal IYIMPULSE “Y” Adapter Cable – Plug & Play Converts Focal Impulse 4.320 to ISO) so i think I need to order this.
I've also found out they both require a seperate 12 gauge fused power line from the battery.
It's for a Land Rover Defender 2004.
So having unboxed the amp and sub I have realised I ordered the Impulse 4.320 without the plug and play adapter (Focal IYIMPULSE “Y” Adapter Cable – Plug & Play Converts Focal Impulse 4.320 to ISO) so i think I need to order this.
I've also found out they both require a seperate 12 gauge fused power line from the battery.
So having unboxed the amp and sub I have realised I ordered the Impulse 4.320 without the plug and play adapter (Focal IYIMPULSE “Y” Adapter Cable – Plug & Play Converts Focal Impulse 4.320 to ISO) so i think I need to order this.
I've also found out they both require a seperate 12 gauge fused power line from the battery.
Looks to be easy enough as most of it is plug and play, you'll need the ISO adapter cable along with the extension cable.
I've not heard the system so not sure how good it sounds, although Focal are a really good brand so it should be an pretty great upgrade over stock.
Next steps I would look at, would be sound deadening the car with some dynamat type stuff.
Even if you did just the doors with the new comps and maybe the inside floor area, if you can stretch to it, it should make quite a bit of difference.
I've not heard the system so not sure how good it sounds, although Focal are a really good brand so it should be an pretty great upgrade over stock.
Next steps I would look at, would be sound deadening the car with some dynamat type stuff.
Even if you did just the doors with the new comps and maybe the inside floor area, if you can stretch to it, it should make quite a bit of difference.
darreni said:
I have the impulse amp fitted to my M3. With the iso adaptor you don't need to wire to the battery.
The sound is great though the std headunit, though i'm using Morel hybrid speakers front & rear.
I think that might only be the case for you because you have a powerful head unit capable of supplying and drawing more power? If i'm not mistake for my setup I will need power direct from battery to the amp, and another one to the sub. Someone may correct me and know a little better.The sound is great though the std headunit, though i'm using Morel hybrid speakers front & rear.
Glad you're loving the sound though!
Radec said:
Looks to be easy enough as most of it is plug and play, you'll need the ISO adapter cable along with the extension cable.
I've not heard the system so not sure how good it sounds, although Focal are a really good brand so it should be an pretty great upgrade over stock.
Next steps I would look at, would be sound deadening the car with some dynamat type stuff.
Even if you did just the doors with the new comps and maybe the inside floor area, if you can stretch to it, it should make quite a bit of difference.
Haha I've watched these videos and it has helped me to try and make a little sense of stuff. I've not heard the system so not sure how good it sounds, although Focal are a really good brand so it should be an pretty great upgrade over stock.
Next steps I would look at, would be sound deadening the car with some dynamat type stuff.
Even if you did just the doors with the new comps and maybe the inside floor area, if you can stretch to it, it should make quite a bit of difference.
This looks like the stuff I need? In the video it does say 'the IW Y Iso harness for your particular car', but if you but the amp from 'Car Audio Direct' it has a link to that Iso Y adapter.. think it'll work for me and plug straight into the back of my head unit ISO harness now, or would I need anything else such as this adapter from MUD:
https://www.mudstuff.co.uk/products/defender-iso-w...
The x2 cables mentioned in the video (I think):
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/127695613764 Iso Y connector
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/334576419264 Ext 150
At the end of the video it also says to just buy x2 focal power supply wiring sets to wire up the amp and the isub. The kit is just length of 12 gauge cable with an inline 30/40amp fuse.
The sound deadening is on the way (doors and floors done), just dealing with a few other jobs because I get back to it. Thanks mate.
Josh93 said:
I think that might only be the case for you because you have a powerful head unit capable of supplying and drawing more power? If i'm not mistake for my setup I will need power direct from battery to the amp, and another one to the sub. Someone may correct me and know a little better.
Glad you're loving the sound though!
Not sure. I run it from the std E46M3 cd head unit. The whole idea of the impulse amp is that its plug & play when used with the correct iso cables.Glad you're loving the sound though!
Josh93 said:
Radec said:
Looks to be easy enough as most of it is plug and play, you'll need the ISO adapter cable along with the extension cable.
I've not heard the system so not sure how good it sounds, although Focal are a really good brand so it should be an pretty great upgrade over stock.
Next steps I would look at, would be sound deadening the car with some dynamat type stuff.
Even if you did just the doors with the new comps and maybe the inside floor area, if you can stretch to it, it should make quite a bit of difference.
Haha I've watched these videos and it has helped me to try and make a little sense of stuff. I've not heard the system so not sure how good it sounds, although Focal are a really good brand so it should be an pretty great upgrade over stock.
Next steps I would look at, would be sound deadening the car with some dynamat type stuff.
Even if you did just the doors with the new comps and maybe the inside floor area, if you can stretch to it, it should make quite a bit of difference.
This looks like the stuff I need? In the video it does say 'the IW Y Iso harness for your particular car', but if you but the amp from 'Car Audio Direct' it has a link to that Iso Y adapter.. think it'll work for me and plug straight into the back of my head unit ISO harness now, or would I need anything else such as this adapter from MUD:
https://www.mudstuff.co.uk/products/defender-iso-w...
The x2 cables mentioned in the video (I think):
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/127695613764 Iso Y connector
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/334576419264 Ext 150
At the end of the video it also says to just buy x2 focal power supply wiring sets to wire up the amp and the isub. The kit is just length of 12 gauge cable with an inline 30/40amp fuse.
The sound deadening is on the way (doors and floors done), just dealing with a few other jobs because I get back to it. Thanks mate.
The iso adapter is taking the power and ground from the car plugs into the amp and sub so don't think you need separate power wires or anything as that is the solution if you wanted to wire it up in the traditional sense and not go plug and play with the looms.
The eBay link shop Car Audio London seems to be bricks and mortar as well with a phone number, probably wouldn't hurt to give them a call for some advice to be sure.
Edited by Radec on Sunday 5th April 15:18
Edited by Radec on Sunday 5th April 15:31
Radec said:
There looks to be vehicle specific Focal iso adapters available however not for your car, there is a generic one which is the one on eBay you have linked so this should work instead, it should be simply a case of plugging the male connectors from your car into this Focal adapter which then plugs into the amp.
The iso adapter is taking the power and ground from the car plugs into the amp and sub so don't think you need separate power wires or anything as that is the solution if you wanted to wire it up in the traditional sense and not go plug and play with the looms.
The eBay link shop Car Audio London seems to be bricks and mortar as well with a phone number, probably wouldn't hurt to give them a call for some advice to be sure.
Well I've ordered those 2 linked adapter cables, and when everyone is back to work tomorrow I'll make a few calls to double check on the power situation that's a good idea. Darreni managed to do it that way too without power from the battery so that'll make it even easier if it's the same for me. The next part of the circuit is the RCA connectors because I feel like that may be another adapter I need (I think I should have x4 RCA connections).The iso adapter is taking the power and ground from the car plugs into the amp and sub so don't think you need separate power wires or anything as that is the solution if you wanted to wire it up in the traditional sense and not go plug and play with the looms.
The eBay link shop Car Audio London seems to be bricks and mortar as well with a phone number, probably wouldn't hurt to give them a call for some advice to be sure.
Edited by Radec on Sunday 5th April 15:18
Edited by Radec on Sunday 5th April 15:31
Also the connection from the speakers via crossover box - I'm not sure if I will need to rewire the input to the crossover (which was previously just the speaker input/power direct from headunit) or if the adapter I've purchased is basically going to power that cable via the amp now rather than via headunit.
Josh93 said:
TEKNOPUG said:
Ditch the crossovers and run it 3-way active.
Whats the difference/advantage of this? I assume this is another purchase that replaces the passive crossover boxes?The z7200dab can work in 3 way network mode (see page 85+ of the manual) and allows you to set crossover points and also allows you to time align. Take advantage of it. You also won't have to worry about where to put the crossovers or any "noise" added to the system by them.
You will however need 3 sets of 2 channel RCA cables at a suitable length or a 6 channel RCA cable (for highs, mids and sub) as network mode will not work (i don't think) if using low level speaker inputs. This will, however, also provide a much stronger and clearer signal.
e.g this at a bare minimum...
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/358286309833?_skw=6+cha...
ETA...obviously the above will negate any need for any speaker inputs going in to the amplifier/ active subwoofer. Just power, earth and remote wire (if they are not auto sensing, which i think they are).
And sorry if i interrupted as I realised that you did ask TEKNOPUG that question.
Edited by MattsCar on Monday 6th April 14:21
Does the vehicle have front/rear fader adjustment? If so, there must be multiple speaker outputs from the head unit or from an amplifier further down the line. Any aftermarket equipment that isn't "just speakers" would need to be compatible with that system.
Bass demands electrical "grunt" and usually requires a separate amplifier, either built into the speaker unit or between the head unit and the sub. A power supply will be required for the amp and, to state the obvious, it needs to be switched or it will flatten your battery unless it goes "auto-off" when there's no signal. Some subs can just be connected into the (rear) speaker circuit but you'll get better results if it can be run on a separate low level output from the head unit.
Speaker upgrade is a good starting point. OEM speakers tend to be cheap-as-chips and offer little in the way of quality. Once you go beyond basic speaker upgrade it's generally preferable to go for a complete new system, although that can be tricky with modern integrated touch screens etc. Safest course is to contact a marque specialist and find out what's realistically achievable before splashing out the cash.
The comment someone made earlier about a fully active system would need 12v power at each speaker position. This can be a p.i.t.a. in terms of running new wiring into the doors. And once you start running new wiring you might be temped to take a different approach with a big new amp and running new speaker cables everywhere. This whole subject can easily run away with you so it's a good idea to have a clear end objective before you start. Most often it's a choice between "simple add-ons" or "going the full works".
Bass demands electrical "grunt" and usually requires a separate amplifier, either built into the speaker unit or between the head unit and the sub. A power supply will be required for the amp and, to state the obvious, it needs to be switched or it will flatten your battery unless it goes "auto-off" when there's no signal. Some subs can just be connected into the (rear) speaker circuit but you'll get better results if it can be run on a separate low level output from the head unit.
Speaker upgrade is a good starting point. OEM speakers tend to be cheap-as-chips and offer little in the way of quality. Once you go beyond basic speaker upgrade it's generally preferable to go for a complete new system, although that can be tricky with modern integrated touch screens etc. Safest course is to contact a marque specialist and find out what's realistically achievable before splashing out the cash.
The comment someone made earlier about a fully active system would need 12v power at each speaker position. This can be a p.i.t.a. in terms of running new wiring into the doors. And once you start running new wiring you might be temped to take a different approach with a big new amp and running new speaker cables everywhere. This whole subject can easily run away with you so it's a good idea to have a clear end objective before you start. Most often it's a choice between "simple add-ons" or "going the full works".
Josh93 said:
Radec said:
There looks to be vehicle specific Focal iso adapters available however not for your car, there is a generic one which is the one on eBay you have linked so this should work instead, it should be simply a case of plugging the male connectors from your car into this Focal adapter which then plugs into the amp.
The iso adapter is taking the power and ground from the car plugs into the amp and sub so don't think you need separate power wires or anything as that is the solution if you wanted to wire it up in the traditional sense and not go plug and play with the looms.
The eBay link shop Car Audio London seems to be bricks and mortar as well with a phone number, probably wouldn't hurt to give them a call for some advice to be sure.
Well I've ordered those 2 linked adapter cables, and when everyone is back to work tomorrow I'll make a few calls to double check on the power situation that's a good idea. Darreni managed to do it that way too without power from the battery so that'll make it even easier if it's the same for me. The next part of the circuit is the RCA connectors because I feel like that may be another adapter I need (I think I should have x4 RCA connections).The iso adapter is taking the power and ground from the car plugs into the amp and sub so don't think you need separate power wires or anything as that is the solution if you wanted to wire it up in the traditional sense and not go plug and play with the looms.
The eBay link shop Car Audio London seems to be bricks and mortar as well with a phone number, probably wouldn't hurt to give them a call for some advice to be sure.
Edited by Radec on Sunday 5th April 15:18
Edited by Radec on Sunday 5th April 15:31
Also the connection from the speakers via crossover box - I'm not sure if I will need to rewire the input to the crossover (which was previously just the speaker input/power direct from headunit) or if the adapter I've purchased is basically going to power that cable via the amp now rather than via headunit.
To wire your speakers just take off the existing L/R speaker wire at the end of your current door speaker, I'm not sure if this is terminated with a plug (you can buy adapters if they are or just cut off the plug) or the wires are just soldered to the speaker. Wire this to the input/amp or whatever it says on the crossover box, you will then need additional speaker wire (the tweeter should already have a length connected to it) wire your mids to the +/- W terminal on the crossover and then the tweeters to the T terminals on the crossover.
The crossover box isn't doing anything apart from splitting the frequencies and sending to the relevant woofer/tweeter. It only takes speaker wire and doesn't need any additional wiring for power.
Useful video introduction here,
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=onEssr951YI
1. Define your goal.
2. Speakers first, but they're just the beginning.
3. Power matters; adding an amplifier.
4. Bring on the bass.
5. Replace head unit or integrate with factory system?
6. Proper installation essential.
7. Set your budget smartly, quality over quantity.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=onEssr951YI
1. Define your goal.
2. Speakers first, but they're just the beginning.
3. Power matters; adding an amplifier.
4. Bring on the bass.
5. Replace head unit or integrate with factory system?
6. Proper installation essential.
7. Set your budget smartly, quality over quantity.
MattsCar said:
Josh93 said:
TEKNOPUG said:
Ditch the crossovers and run it 3-way active.
Whats the difference/advantage of this? I assume this is another purchase that replaces the passive crossover boxes?The z7200dab can work in 3 way network mode (see page 85+ of the manual) and allows you to set crossover points and also allows you to time align. Take advantage of it. You also won't have to worry about where to put the crossovers or any "noise" added to the system by them.
You will however need 3 sets of 2 channel RCA cables at a suitable length or a 6 channel RCA cable (for highs, mids and sub) as network mode will not work (i don't think) if using low level speaker inputs. This will, however, also provide a much stronger and clearer signal.
e.g this at a bare minimum...
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/358286309833?_skw=6+cha...
ETA...obviously the above will negate any need for any speaker inputs going in to the amplifier/ active subwoofer. Just power, earth and remote wire (if they are not auto sensing, which i think they are).
And sorry if i interrupted as I realised that you did ask TEKNOPUG that question.
Edited by MattsCar on Monday 6th April 14:21
Your HU will have 3 RCA outs, probably labelled FRONT, REAR & SUB. In 3 way active (network) mode, those 3 RCAs become HIGH, MID & SUB. You connect 1 RCA from the HIGH & 1 from the MID output to the amp - the amp will have a Front & Rear input RCA. The amp is now in 4 channel mode. Channel 1/2 if for the highs and 3/4 for the mids. You connect the high amp output via speaker cables directly to the tweeters. And the mid amp output to the woofers. The passive crossovers are redundant.
Your HU now becomes a DSP (Digital Sound Processor). You set the crossover for each channel (and therefore to the speakers) via the HU. You can use the same crossover point as the passive crossovers but you now have the opportunity to fine tune the speakers. Especially useful for the woofers where you may find that the LPF that you set for the SUB is too low and causes the woofers to either distort or simply rattle the doors.
However, fine tuning the speaker frequency/slope is only the beginning of the benefit. The real advantage is Time Alignment. This allows you to apply a delay to each individual speaker and this gives you the ability to virtually move the position of the speaker, in reference to your ears. Imagine if you had an open room with a chair in the middle and the ability to position the speakers anywhere in 3 dimensions. You would be able to position the speakers in such a way as to achieve perfect stereo imaging; as if the sound was coming directly 3 feet from in front of your face. In a vehicle, stereo imaging is impossible, you can't physically move the speakers. 1 is down by your front knee, the other is all the way across the cabin, with seats and interior in the way. Ditto the tweeters - 1 may be 12" away, the other 36". With Time Alignment you are able to move the speakers virtually so the the stereo imaging appears to be coming from directly in front of you, 3 feet out on the bonnet.
For the SUB, the wiring is all the same but you still get to play about with crossovers, slopes, phase etc. Time Alignment isn't really so much of a benefit as sub frequencies are non-directional.
Time alignment is literally the difference between a setup sounding "good" & loud, to it sounding "wow".
Panamax said:
TEKNOPUG said:
Time alignment is literally the difference between a setup sounding "good" & loud, to it sounding "wow".
Are the distances inside a car big enough for timing to matter?The closer the speaker, the sooner the sound reaches your ears. It may seem like very small distances but it still makes a huge difference to your perception of the sound stage. Easy enough to replicate at home: place a pair of hifi speakers level with your chest and an equal distance apart, such that your listening position is the bottom of an equilateral triangle. Then move one speaker down to the floor, directly next to your right foot. Then move the other 3 foot further away and pointing at 90 degrees to your listening position.
Time alignment is brilliant for cars.
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