Airbrushing tips?
Discussion
I've been given an airbrush kit, a simple gun with a propellant can. It looks like a good way to practice before I buy a better kit...
How much "mess" can I expect with airbrushing? Is it on a par as spraying from a can (which I have to do outside)?
Any pointers so I don't do something wrong straight away?
How much "mess" can I expect with airbrushing? Is it on a par as spraying from a can (which I have to do outside)?
Any pointers so I don't do something wrong straight away?
Airbrushing creates a lot less mess than a spray can but extraction is a good thing for smell.
Make sure you wear a respirator.
Make sure the paint is thinned to a milk like consistency.
Have the pressure set to low and steadily up it if needed.
Gently pull back the trigger to graduate how much paint you want to flow don't just go full bore.
Do light coats to avoid drips, you can always go back for a second coat.
When you decide to buy a proper set up try these guys. Good prices and good quality gear. www.everythingairbrush.com
This was my first attempt at airbrushing (I did buy a proper set to start though)
I even tried stencils for the crosses rather than decals. The paint is so fine it looks flatter than decals.
Make sure you wear a respirator.
Make sure the paint is thinned to a milk like consistency.
Have the pressure set to low and steadily up it if needed.
Gently pull back the trigger to graduate how much paint you want to flow don't just go full bore.
Do light coats to avoid drips, you can always go back for a second coat.
When you decide to buy a proper set up try these guys. Good prices and good quality gear. www.everythingairbrush.com
This was my first attempt at airbrushing (I did buy a proper set to start though)
I even tried stencils for the crosses rather than decals. The paint is so fine it looks flatter than decals.
Edited by Composite Guru on Wednesday 9th November 13:53
I really struggled using the cans of propellant and almost gave up. As soon as I got a compressor it became a lot easier. It might be worth seeing if you can get an adaptor to run the airbrush off a spare tyre, 20p at the local petrol station to top it up is cheaper than having to buy propellant.
jpringle819 said:
I really struggled using the cans of propellant and almost gave up. As soon as I got a compressor it became a lot easier. It might be worth seeing if you can get an adaptor to run the airbrush off a spare tyre, 20p at the local petrol station to top it up is cheaper than having to buy propellant.
I agree with this. I completely bypassed the propellant set up and made sure i stuck it out and got good at airbrushing to warrant the cost. 
Edited by Composite Guru on Wednesday 9th November 14:42
You should be able to get a fair job done with that.
Narrow lines will be a pipe dream but general camouflage will be acheivable with the use of masking and mottling (Luftwaffe type)will be easy with pracctise.
You will get hard line edges with stuck down masks & softer edges if the masking is lifted off the surface a little to allow overspray. The higher the mask the fluffier (so to speak) the edges which won't be a lot of use with aircraft generally in smaller scales.
What this will do is allow you to become confident using paint that is so much thinners that a brush painter would think he'd gme barmy if he used it. Milk-thickish water!
I used a similar brush for years, though my own cost a small fortune many years ago and it was still (my old favourite Paasche F1 was single action internal mix) capable of decent finishes with practise.
I bought a more up to date dual action airbrush on not-so-evilBay a few months ago for £12.99
Bargains that work quite well (mine does) are still out there.
Enjoy the learning experience, it'll be fun.
Narrow lines will be a pipe dream but general camouflage will be acheivable with the use of masking and mottling (Luftwaffe type)will be easy with pracctise.
You will get hard line edges with stuck down masks & softer edges if the masking is lifted off the surface a little to allow overspray. The higher the mask the fluffier (so to speak) the edges which won't be a lot of use with aircraft generally in smaller scales.
What this will do is allow you to become confident using paint that is so much thinners that a brush painter would think he'd gme barmy if he used it. Milk-thickish water!
I used a similar brush for years, though my own cost a small fortune many years ago and it was still (my old favourite Paasche F1 was single action internal mix) capable of decent finishes with practise.
I bought a more up to date dual action airbrush on not-so-evilBay a few months ago for £12.99
Bargains that work quite well (mine does) are still out there.
Enjoy the learning experience, it'll be fun.
The very first airbrush I ever tried to use was an external mix one like that. I just couldn't get on with it and it put me off airbrushes for years.
Maybe you might make a better fist of things than me but I finally found a brush set up that works for me which is -
a) gravity feed (allows use of lower pressures)
b) internal mix (better control of spray patterns)
c) double action (separate control over air and paint flow)
Some of the cheapo Chinese brushes of this type (sub £40) are pretty handy.
Maybe you might make a better fist of things than me but I finally found a brush set up that works for me which is -
a) gravity feed (allows use of lower pressures)
b) internal mix (better control of spray patterns)
c) double action (separate control over air and paint flow)
Some of the cheapo Chinese brushes of this type (sub £40) are pretty handy.
Alex@POD said:
I've been given an airbrush kit, a simple gun with a propellant can. It looks like a good way to practice before I buy a better kit...
How much "mess" can I expect with airbrushing? Is it on a par as spraying from a can (which I have to do outside)?
Any pointers so I don't do something wrong straight away?
Lots and lots and lots of mess (but maybe that's just me).How much "mess" can I expect with airbrushing? Is it on a par as spraying from a can (which I have to do outside)?
Any pointers so I don't do something wrong straight away?
You really need some form of extraction if spraying indoors - it'll go everywhere particularly if you don't have much in the way of fine control. If you spray outdoors in winter you're asking for trouble with paint blooming and varnish discoulouring.
Paint viscosity is critical, and thinning paint by trial and error causes mess!
Also, if you have any lumps in the paint, it's game over, so you have to strip the brush and clean it out - mess.
Then at the end of the session you have to thoroughly clean the brush - more mess.
My advice is buy a very good respirator, a fine mesh tea strainer to pour the paint through, and some proper airbrush cleaning spray (a large one!). Oh, and a shed load of Swarfega and kitchen towel...
I have to say that my airbrushing does seem to create such chaos.
I use Badger Airbrush Cleaner which seems to keep my H & S purring along nicely each and every time I go to use it. I always extract the needle after each session and wipe it down before reinserting it. Sometimes, I might extract the needle BEFORE a session and give it a quick rub down (ooh-er) witha piece of fine wet and dry paper. This ensures that there are no dried paint particles adhering to the needle and which ensures that it slides smothly backwards and forwards when the trigger is activated.
My favourite thinner is Hannants Xtracrylic thinner which works well with Xtracrylic paints (obviously) but also with Tamiya, Citadel and Revell paints.
I use Badger Airbrush Cleaner which seems to keep my H & S purring along nicely each and every time I go to use it. I always extract the needle after each session and wipe it down before reinserting it. Sometimes, I might extract the needle BEFORE a session and give it a quick rub down (ooh-er) witha piece of fine wet and dry paper. This ensures that there are no dried paint particles adhering to the needle and which ensures that it slides smothly backwards and forwards when the trigger is activated.
My favourite thinner is Hannants Xtracrylic thinner which works well with Xtracrylic paints (obviously) but also with Tamiya, Citadel and Revell paints.
I've been thinning Tamiya acrylics (and cleaning the brush) with isopropyl alcohol - I've managed to get my usage down to about 330ml to paint a full model car now, including plenty of coats of paint (probably 8~ on the body, 3~ on the interior).
I haven't found any clogging issues by mixing in the brush (add the paint and alcohol, then cover the tip and spray - it'll bubble and mix in the cup), and by spraying a little alcohol through the brush before and after each session/colour.
This does only apply to internal mix brushes though, like the one Perdu has mentioned (I also have one very similar to that, which has been very reliable for me). You can buy a cheap compressor/brush combo as a set on ebay for about £80~ IIRC, well worth considering.
Oh, one other thing - if you're painting without a cap on the paint cup and a full cup of paint, don't move it too quickly! I forgot mine was full recently, and very briskly swept it across the model, covering myself in paint as it splashed out! Fortunately nobody saw me clearing it up
I haven't found any clogging issues by mixing in the brush (add the paint and alcohol, then cover the tip and spray - it'll bubble and mix in the cup), and by spraying a little alcohol through the brush before and after each session/colour.
This does only apply to internal mix brushes though, like the one Perdu has mentioned (I also have one very similar to that, which has been very reliable for me). You can buy a cheap compressor/brush combo as a set on ebay for about £80~ IIRC, well worth considering.
Oh, one other thing - if you're painting without a cap on the paint cup and a full cup of paint, don't move it too quickly! I forgot mine was full recently, and very briskly swept it across the model, covering myself in paint as it splashed out! Fortunately nobody saw me clearing it up
Eric Mc said:
The very first airbrush I ever tried to use was an external mix one like that. I just couldn't get on with it and it put me off airbrushes for years.
Maybe you might make a better fist of things than me but I finally found a brush set up that works for me which is -
a) gravity feed (allows use of lower pressures)
b) internal mix (better control of spray patterns)
c) double action (separate control over air and paint flow)
Some of the cheapo Chinese brushes of this type (sub £40) are pretty handy.
To Eric's list I'd add Maybe you might make a better fist of things than me but I finally found a brush set up that works for me which is -
a) gravity feed (allows use of lower pressures)
b) internal mix (better control of spray patterns)
c) double action (separate control over air and paint flow)
Some of the cheapo Chinese brushes of this type (sub £40) are pretty handy.
d) a brush with a back stop on the needle
Until you get confident being able to always feed in just the right amount of paint repeatedly it will be a great help, especially for mottling.
Meoricin said:
I've been thinning Tamiya acrylics (and cleaning the brush) with isopropyl alcohol -
I do the same but use 40% purified water, 55% IPA and 5% windolene. This is pretty much what official Tamiya thinner is but 100x more expensive. Having the water in it helps stop the alcohol flashing off too fast and can help to get a glossier finish especially if you are painting cars.
Finally found this thinning guide for you (address was in my airbrush notes of all places):
http://www.modelairplaneinternational.com/a%20PDF%...
I found recently that if you use acrylic (IPA/Tamiya thinners) then put enamel through the brush (enamel thinners) you get a solid precipitate that instantly clogs the entire airbrush.
http://www.modelairplaneinternational.com/a%20PDF%...
I found recently that if you use acrylic (IPA/Tamiya thinners) then put enamel through the brush (enamel thinners) you get a solid precipitate that instantly clogs the entire airbrush.
dr_gn said:
Finally found this thinning guide for you (address was in my airbrush notes of all places):
http://www.modelairplaneinternational.com/a%20PDF%...
I found recently that if you use acrylic (IPA/Tamiya thinners) then put enamel through the brush (enamel thinners) you get a solid precipitate that instantly clogs the entire airbrush.
Thanks, that looks like it will come in very handy! Is screen wash just bog standard car screen wash?http://www.modelairplaneinternational.com/a%20PDF%...
I found recently that if you use acrylic (IPA/Tamiya thinners) then put enamel through the brush (enamel thinners) you get a solid precipitate that instantly clogs the entire airbrush.
dr_gn said:
Finally found this thinning guide for you (address was in my airbrush notes of all places):
http://www.modelairplaneinternational.com/a%20PDF%...
I found recently that if you use acrylic (IPA/Tamiya thinners) then put enamel through the brush (enamel thinners) you get a solid precipitate that instantly clogs the entire airbrush.
And it is unbelievably horrible to clean outhttp://www.modelairplaneinternational.com/a%20PDF%...
I found recently that if you use acrylic (IPA/Tamiya thinners) then put enamel through the brush (enamel thinners) you get a solid precipitate that instantly clogs the entire airbrush.
from absolutely everywhere
(but I'm glad it isn't only me
)Alex@POD said:
dr_gn said:
Finally found this thinning guide for you (address was in my airbrush notes of all places):
http://www.modelairplaneinternational.com/a%20PDF%...
I found recently that if you use acrylic (IPA/Tamiya thinners) then put enamel through the brush (enamel thinners) you get a solid precipitate that instantly clogs the entire airbrush.
Thanks, that looks like it will come in very handy! Is screen wash just bog standard car screen wash?http://www.modelairplaneinternational.com/a%20PDF%...
I found recently that if you use acrylic (IPA/Tamiya thinners) then put enamel through the brush (enamel thinners) you get a solid precipitate that instantly clogs the entire airbrush.
Whilst this doesn't refer specifically to model painting I've just found this newish resource on youtube for airbrushing.
http://www.youtube.com/user/airbrushtutor
He has a site with some text tutorials as well with reference pdfs to practice on
http://www.airbrushtutor.com
Looks like he's only been doing the website for a few months but certainly explained and exploded few things for me already, and all done in a typically Aussie way.
http://www.youtube.com/user/airbrushtutor
He has a site with some text tutorials as well with reference pdfs to practice on
http://www.airbrushtutor.com
Looks like he's only been doing the website for a few months but certainly explained and exploded few things for me already, and all done in a typically Aussie way.
Edited by anonymous-user on Saturday 26th November 21:42
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