Where to respray a die-cast?

[Paul O]

Hi all,

Anyone know where I could get a 1:18 diecast car model sprayed a different colour in the UK please?

Thanks!!

Paul.

[mph1977]

for what you might get charged - especially as it;s time with prep that costs the most with respray, it could be easier to DIY it with rattle cans in a home made ( large cardboard box or plastic sheeting in the garage) booth

[Paul O]

Thanks MPH - how easy are they to take to bits? I'm not the most patient of people and fear the bits might be too fiddly for my less than delicate paws!

Anyone done it before?

[mickk]

Two rivets in the base plate, drill them out. You can buy the drill bit and new rivets from ebay as a kit.

Sorry didn't notice the 1:18 scale, don't know about these i know you can on the smaller models.

Edited by mickk on Saturday 31st December 23:21

[Red Firecracker]

Drop me an email through my profile and we'll chat and I can advise you of some options. With a 1:18th scale model you will notice any imperfections.

An added benefit of getting a model stripped and resprayed is that you will gain back some of the cast in detail as model manufacturers' paint finishes are a touch heavy to say the least and tend to obliterate the subtle cast in details.

Edited by Red Firecracker on Sunday 1st January 08:28

[steveo3002]

if you get stuck post up a pic and if its not a mega hard one , id spray it for the cost of the cans and any materials

[thebigmacmoomin]

I spray my own 1/18's. I usually do them outside if its warm enough.

Check out here if you need any ideas or help.
http://www.modelmotorvation.com/forum/models/forum...

[Bungleaio]

It depends on the complexity of the model too, I wouldn't fancy taking any of the auto art signature models apart!

[Getragdogleg]

I find that sand blasting the die cast parts with very fine sane gives the best surface to key the new paint, i also use a very good acid etch primer for the first coat, this is quite fine and gives a good base for top coat, i use laquer on top of all this.

The key is light coats and keep the model warm when doing it all.

[chris watton]

.....And if you're using spray cans, immerse most of the can in hot water in a bowel for 20 minutes or so before spraying - the paint flows better and you get a better finish..

[Red Firecracker]

... and also if you're using spray cans, it's worth investing in some new nozzles, such as available from graffiti art suppliers, that will give a finer spray rather than the metaphorical 'bucket with a hole in' nozzles of most spray cans.

[joe58]

Plus what about replacing all the decals and transfers?

[chris watton]

Red Firecracker said:

... and also if you're using spray cans, it's worth investing in some new nozzles, such as available from graffiti art suppliers, that will give a finer spray rather than the metaphorical 'bucket with a hole in' nozzles of most spray cans.

You are so right! I use a lot of the 'Plasti-Kote' spray cans (red oxide, white and black), and it seems that 50% of the nozzles fail altogether. Not as good as they used to be - also the spray matt varnish. Since they got rid of the poly varnish and replaced it with water based, it's completely unusable - spray comes out like a water cannon and the droplets are like a tropical rain storm! I cannot risk using them any longer so now stick to Vallejo for almost everything.

[Red Firecracker]

chris watton said:

You are so right! I use a lot of the 'Plasti-Kote' spray cans (red oxide, white and black), and it seems that 50% of the nozzles fail altogether. Not as good as they used to be - also the spray matt varnish. Since they got rid of the poly varnish and replaced it with water based, it's completely unusable - spray comes out like a water cannon and the droplets are like a tropical rain storm! I cannot risk using them any longer so now stick to Vallejo for almost everything.

Yup, the only rattle cans I use now are for primer.

joe58 said:

Plus what about replacing all the decals and transfers?

Everything is replaceable.

[DieselGriff]

chris watton said:

.....And if you're using spray cans, immerse most of the can in hot water in a bowel for 20 minutes or so before spraying - the paint flows better and you get a better finish..

Blimey Chris, I know your experienced and all that, and I wouldn't normally question your advice but is this really necessary??!!

[chris watton]

DieselGriff said:

chris watton said:

.....And if you're using spray cans, immerse most of the can in hot water in a bowel for 20 minutes or so before spraying - the paint flows better and you get a better finish..

Blimey Chris, I know your experienced and all that, and I wouldn't normally question your advice but is this really necessary??!!

Opps!

Will have to add that in the next set of instructions I write, and see if any modellers take it literally...

[thebigmacmoomin]

joe58 said:

Plus what about replacing all the decals and transfers?

Either make my own some times or buy them from ModelMotorvation