Hasegawa Lancia Delta Integrale 1:24
Discussion
While I was waiting for the bits for the Golf to arrive, I started building this model. I thought I'd share...
It's the Hasegawa Lancia Delta Integrale from the 1991 San Remo Rally:
I was quite surprised by how detailed it is for a standard model. Maybe that's because I haven't build that many yet (this is only my fifth)... The seat belts are to be cut from a sheet of material, and the buckles are tiny!
Starting on the interior, as is the way when I build a model, I prefer it to look good over being 100% accurate, the bottles were all supposed to be silver:
Seats and belts in:
Those belts required a lot of patience! I realised too late the plastic they are made of is quite stiff. I plan on making a set for the Golf, how can I get it to be softer, so it holds a natural shape once fitted?
Rollcage fitted, it looks a lot better when viewed without a flash:
Dash painted and fitted:
Next, the chassis:
Bare underneath and mock engine:
With all the suspension and transmission gubbins:
And the sump and diff protections:
And this is where I am now:
Next I'm going to start work on the body. This should be really interesting as there is quite a lot of detail on it, and also mudflaps I will have to cut out of another sheet of material....
It's the Hasegawa Lancia Delta Integrale from the 1991 San Remo Rally:
I was quite surprised by how detailed it is for a standard model. Maybe that's because I haven't build that many yet (this is only my fifth)... The seat belts are to be cut from a sheet of material, and the buckles are tiny!
Starting on the interior, as is the way when I build a model, I prefer it to look good over being 100% accurate, the bottles were all supposed to be silver:
Seats and belts in:
Those belts required a lot of patience! I realised too late the plastic they are made of is quite stiff. I plan on making a set for the Golf, how can I get it to be softer, so it holds a natural shape once fitted?
Rollcage fitted, it looks a lot better when viewed without a flash:
Dash painted and fitted:
Next, the chassis:
Bare underneath and mock engine:
With all the suspension and transmission gubbins:
And the sump and diff protections:
And this is where I am now:
Next I'm going to start work on the body. This should be really interesting as there is quite a lot of detail on it, and also mudflaps I will have to cut out of another sheet of material....
Good start - nice to see some photo-etch in there too.
Have you considered dry brushing the black undersides to highlight a bit of raised detail or using a wash on the silver mechanical bits to make them pop a bit? Of course you won't see any of it when the models on it's wheels, but....maybe a good opportunity to practice the above?
How are you painting the body - spray can? airbrush? brush?
Have you considered dry brushing the black undersides to highlight a bit of raised detail or using a wash on the silver mechanical bits to make them pop a bit? Of course you won't see any of it when the models on it's wheels, but....maybe a good opportunity to practice the above?
How are you painting the body - spray can? airbrush? brush?
Alex@POD said:
I'll get one up tomorrow. I guess I didn't stick the tape down properly, it's tricky as it's right on an edge on each panel... But it's going to be very obvious if I don't sort it!
Is there any chance you could brush paint it - is there a recessed demarcation line between the black and the body that a few coats of thin paint would capillary into?
If it were mine I'd strip it and start again. I think that trying to touch up matt balck with gloss white will not work well - too much contrast and the matt black could make the overcoated white look slightly matt too, although with the number of coats of white you'd need, this might not be a problem. Loss of surface detail would, so I don't think you can win with this situation.
Next time use Tamiya masking tape, cut it with a salpel in straight lines, and use the cut edge for the mask line - this removes any dust from the factory edge and helps it to stick better. Then press it well into the contours with a cocktail stick and overspray using very thin dust coats from a distance.
Hope this helps.
Next time use Tamiya masking tape, cut it with a salpel in straight lines, and use the cut edge for the mask line - this removes any dust from the factory edge and helps it to stick better. Then press it well into the contours with a cocktail stick and overspray using very thin dust coats from a distance.
Hope this helps.
Probably will help a lot, thanks Doc.
I tried brushing the decanted white paint over the black, but it just created a big grey smear... I guess I'll have to buy some brake fluid during the week (and a suitable container so I don't get shouted at for using some cooking equipment again)!
I'm going to make some progress on the Golf for now.
I tried brushing the decanted white paint over the black, but it just created a big grey smear... I guess I'll have to buy some brake fluid during the week (and a suitable container so I don't get shouted at for using some cooking equipment again)!
I'm going to make some progress on the Golf for now.
Alex@POD said:
Probably will help a lot, thanks Doc.
I tried brushing the decanted white paint over the black, but it just created a big grey smear... I guess I'll have to buy some brake fluid during the week (and a suitable container so I don't get shouted at for using some cooking equipment again)!
I'm going to make some progress on the Golf for now.
Yes - in my experience by far the best way is to strip it as soon as possible, thoroughly wash it in detegent and hot water and just start again. I tried brushing the decanted white paint over the black, but it just created a big grey smear... I guess I'll have to buy some brake fluid during the week (and a suitable container so I don't get shouted at for using some cooking equipment again)!
I'm going to make some progress on the Golf for now.
It's a good way of learning - I've done it to some extent on most of my recent models when things have gone badly wrong.
If you're not using Tamiya tape, then what you might wish to do is spray a very light clear coat over the tap once it is on the model to seal the edge. Then build up the colour with light coats as well, this helps to stop the bleed. Best advice though is to get some Tamiya tape, it really is worth it.
Alex@POD said:
Well, I stripped it at the weekend, then repainted it, spent hours on the masking to make sure everything was proprely down... More or less the same result! Oh well, a little remedial work to hide the worst of it, and it'll do, I'm not srtipping it again!
Oh dear. Sorry to hear that.If you're going to touch it up, you might instead be able to lightly scrape the matt black off with the tip of a scalpel, then if necessary either polish the white back (or varnish it with a clear coat), or lightly touch it back in if you go through the top coat.
What you could do is to put some T Cut on a rag that is wrapped over something sharp like a file end and gently rub away at the areas that have seeped on to the gloss white. The matt is unlikely to have adhered very well to the gloss so it should come off without damaging the latter. If you take off too much black it can just be touched in.
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