Folland Gnat T1 - Airfix (Old Tool)
Discussion
Although Airfix have produced a lovely new technology tooling of the Gnat, I have had a few examples of their old 1960s tooling in my unbuilt stash for many years.
I decided that some of these old kits are still worth building - if for no other reason being that they have so few parts that they take very little time to knock together. The quick build time is, however, sometimes negated by the need to fill the various gaps that are the result of old and worn moulding machines.
As with the FROG Vampire I finished recently, I will be building this one "wheels up" and it will more than likely end up in a little Red Arrows tribute build consisting of a Hawk and a Yellow Jacks Gnat.
This is the boxing of the Gnat I am using - one of the last issues of the original 1960s mould.
As can be seen, filler was needed along the wing roots and one side of the tail fin also need some filler along the trailing edge. I am ready now to start priming and getting the model ready for its red paint.
I decided that some of these old kits are still worth building - if for no other reason being that they have so few parts that they take very little time to knock together. The quick build time is, however, sometimes negated by the need to fill the various gaps that are the result of old and worn moulding machines.
As with the FROG Vampire I finished recently, I will be building this one "wheels up" and it will more than likely end up in a little Red Arrows tribute build consisting of a Hawk and a Yellow Jacks Gnat.
This is the boxing of the Gnat I am using - one of the last issues of the original 1960s mould.
As can be seen, filler was needed along the wing roots and one side of the tail fin also need some filler along the trailing edge. I am ready now to start priming and getting the model ready for its red paint.
The Red Arrows Gnat is on offer in Sainsburys with £3+ off - made me think back to days of Airfix kits (late 1950s). I still have some 70s unbuilt kits inc a B-17 (which I've always liked).
I went into local model shop today and got talking - TSR 2 was mentioned so I thought that would be cool to make. Airfix 1/48 scale is apparently easy to get hold of but not cheap!
So I just looked online... on britmodeller.com to see what an Airfix BAC TSR-2 could finish up looking like.
Bloody hell!
I think my model making will be nowhere remotely near this guy (from Ukraine apparently). Crikey, if this is for real (and I see no reason why, or he's hoodwinked a lot of people).
Unbelievable skill! took him a year to build.
Link (for loads of pics and comments)
http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topi...
Even photoshopped the model in place of the real thing. Which is which?
I went into local model shop today and got talking - TSR 2 was mentioned so I thought that would be cool to make. Airfix 1/48 scale is apparently easy to get hold of but not cheap!
So I just looked online... on britmodeller.com to see what an Airfix BAC TSR-2 could finish up looking like.
Bloody hell!
I think my model making will be nowhere remotely near this guy (from Ukraine apparently). Crikey, if this is for real (and I see no reason why, or he's hoodwinked a lot of people).
Unbelievable skill! took him a year to build.
Link (for loads of pics and comments)
http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topi...
Even photoshopped the model in place of the real thing. Which is which?
Impressive stuff. The Airfix 1/48 TSR2 is pretty good.
The 1/72 Airfix TSR2 is not the best kit in the world fit wise. It was one of the last new kits produced by the "old" Airfix before they were taken over by Hornby.
However, with a bit of care it can still be made look good. This is a rendition from one of the Farnborough Club members -
And yes, the extended nose wheel is correct (although not featured in the kit as it is boxed).
The 1/72 Airfix TSR2 is not the best kit in the world fit wise. It was one of the last new kits produced by the "old" Airfix before they were taken over by Hornby.
However, with a bit of care it can still be made look good. This is a rendition from one of the Farnborough Club members -
And yes, the extended nose wheel is correct (although not featured in the kit as it is boxed).
Eric Mc said:
Impressive stuff. The Airfix 1/48 TSR2 is pretty good.
Hmmm, it was too weathered for you last time it was posted on here http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=1&a...
dandarez said:
Even photoshopped the model in place of the real thing. Which is which?
The real one is obviously the one where the panel lines haven't been filled with ink so it looks like a Corgi model. Why do so many modellers wreck their otherwise brilliant work with such crudity? Same with pre-shading.Yertis said:
dandarez said:
Even photoshopped the model in place of the real thing. Which is which?
The real one is obviously the one where the panel lines haven't been filled with ink so it looks like a Corgi model. Why do so many modellers wreck their otherwise brilliant work with such crudity? Same with pre-shading.Look at some test flight pictures as opposed to the museum examples and you will see all the weathering included on the model and more: General grime, many visible panel lines, removable panel fasteners clearly visible, different shaded panels, even what looks like localised fluid staining. Plus bear in mind some of the photos are slightly over exposed so some of the finer dark ares will be burned out:
(photo credits to image owners)
I certainly wouldn't call the model "crude".
dr_gn said:
With a small scale model, subtle over emphasis is sometimes necessary to avoid the "bar of soap" look (which is even worse than over-weathering IMO), and that TSR2 model looks spot-on to me. Yes, many people do go OTT with panel line washes I think because it's a very easy technique to get a quick and obvious result with.
Look at some test flight pictures as opposed to the museum examples and you will see all the weathering included on the model and more: General grime, many visible panel lines, removable panel fasteners clearly visible, different shaded panels, even what looks like localised fluid staining. Plus bear in mind some of the photos are slightly over exposed so some of the finer dark ares will be burned out:
(photo credits to image owners)
I certainly wouldn't call the model "crude".
I certainly wouldn't either, I just think the way that technique is used is often crude, and I think we agree it's often used because it can be done, rather than because it should be done.Look at some test flight pictures as opposed to the museum examples and you will see all the weathering included on the model and more: General grime, many visible panel lines, removable panel fasteners clearly visible, different shaded panels, even what looks like localised fluid staining. Plus bear in mind some of the photos are slightly over exposed so some of the finer dark ares will be burned out:
(photo credits to image owners)
I certainly wouldn't call the model "crude".
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