Airbrushing larger models
Discussion
It's been years since I have used an airbrush, and then it was mostly for 1/32 armour models.
I've got a couple of 1/8 scale Pocher car kits to build, and I plan to do a fair bit of painting. Although the Pocher kits are mostly pre-painted, their colour choice is not that realistic, and many of the parts need a lot of deserving (and then repainting).
My question is about the "technicalities" of spray painting.
Am I correct in thinking that nozzle size and air pressure are the main variables governing spray pattern (size)? Bigger nozzle and higher pressure gives a larger "fan"?
What size nozzle would I need for painting something like a 1/8 engine or exhaust with acrylics - covering the whole thing before the paint starts drying?
I've got an Iwata Eclipe with a 0.35 nozzle, and a Badger 360 with a 0.75 nozzle.
I was thinking about getting a detail spray gun, but the much-recommended Iwata LPH 50 has a smaller nozzle than my Badger, so I'm thinking that the Badger might be suitable. It's got a swivelling paint feed - top cup, or bottom bottle.
I've got a couple of 1/8 scale Pocher car kits to build, and I plan to do a fair bit of painting. Although the Pocher kits are mostly pre-painted, their colour choice is not that realistic, and many of the parts need a lot of deserving (and then repainting).
My question is about the "technicalities" of spray painting.
Am I correct in thinking that nozzle size and air pressure are the main variables governing spray pattern (size)? Bigger nozzle and higher pressure gives a larger "fan"?
What size nozzle would I need for painting something like a 1/8 engine or exhaust with acrylics - covering the whole thing before the paint starts drying?
I've got an Iwata Eclipe with a 0.35 nozzle, and a Badger 360 with a 0.75 nozzle.
I was thinking about getting a detail spray gun, but the much-recommended Iwata LPH 50 has a smaller nozzle than my Badger, so I'm thinking that the Badger might be suitable. It's got a swivelling paint feed - top cup, or bottom bottle.
clockworks said:
It's been years since I have used an airbrush, and then it was mostly for 1/32 armour models.
I've got a couple of 1/8 scale Pocher car kits to build, and I plan to do a fair bit of painting. Although the Pocher kits are mostly pre-painted, their colour choice is not that realistic, and many of the parts need a lot of deserving (and then repainting).
My question is about the "technicalities" of spray painting.
Am I correct in thinking that nozzle size and air pressure are the main variables governing spray pattern (size)? Bigger nozzle and higher pressure gives a larger "fan"?
What size nozzle would I need for painting something like a 1/8 engine or exhaust with acrylics - covering the whole thing before the paint starts drying?
I've got an Iwata Eclipe with a 0.35 nozzle, and a Badger 360 with a 0.75 nozzle.
I was thinking about getting a detail spray gun, but the much-recommended Iwata LPH 50 has a smaller nozzle than my Badger, so I'm thinking that the Badger might be suitable. It's got a swivelling paint feed - top cup, or bottom bottle.
Depends what you're doing I guess. For covering large areas quickly, then a larger nozzle might seem great, but my experince painting a 1:12 F1 car body was that all switching to a larger nozzle achieved was emptying the reservoir very quickly (making a wet coat more difficult to achieve in one go, and less control of coat thickness. I've got a couple of 1/8 scale Pocher car kits to build, and I plan to do a fair bit of painting. Although the Pocher kits are mostly pre-painted, their colour choice is not that realistic, and many of the parts need a lot of deserving (and then repainting).
My question is about the "technicalities" of spray painting.
Am I correct in thinking that nozzle size and air pressure are the main variables governing spray pattern (size)? Bigger nozzle and higher pressure gives a larger "fan"?
What size nozzle would I need for painting something like a 1/8 engine or exhaust with acrylics - covering the whole thing before the paint starts drying?
I've got an Iwata Eclipe with a 0.35 nozzle, and a Badger 360 with a 0.75 nozzle.
I was thinking about getting a detail spray gun, but the much-recommended Iwata LPH 50 has a smaller nozzle than my Badger, so I'm thinking that the Badger might be suitable. It's got a swivelling paint feed - top cup, or bottom bottle.
I's have thought for 1:8 a rattle can for bodywork would be the least hassle.
For engine components etc, that probably aren't glossy, I don't see a problem with paint drying too fast, since you don't need a wet coat to get a good finish?
End of the day, just try what you've got and see how it goes.
dr_gn said:
Depends what you're doing I guess. For covering large areas quickly, then a larger nozzle might seem great, but my experince painting a 1:12 F1 car body was that all switching to a larger nozzle achieved was emptying the reservoir very quickly (making a wet coat more difficult to achieve in one go, and less control of coat thickness.
I's have thought for 1:8 a rattle can for bodywork would be the least hassle.
For engine components etc, that probably aren't glossy, I don't see a problem with paint drying too fast, since you don't need a wet coat to get a good finish?
End of the day, just try what you've got and see how it goes.
Good point about paint capacity. I's have thought for 1:8 a rattle can for bodywork would be the least hassle.
For engine components etc, that probably aren't glossy, I don't see a problem with paint drying too fast, since you don't need a wet coat to get a good finish?
End of the day, just try what you've got and see how it goes.
The Badger, in "jar mode", holds 20ml of paint. The Iwata detail gun holds 130ml.
The Badger, in "cup mode", holds just 1.5ml. My Iwata Eclipse cup holds 7ml.
As you say, bodywork is the only thing that really needs a consistently glossy finish, and the kit I've already got will do everything else.
Might make sense to stick with rattle cans for really big parts, as they probably wouldn't fit comfortably into my tabletop spraybooth anyway.
I was watching Nigel (of Nigel's modelling bench) sorting out the bodywork of his Italeri Stratos HF (or was it the Pocher 917?) and he was singing the praises of this:
https://www.everythingairbrush.com/product/gaahler...
Since he's a self-confessed grumpy old git that picks holes in everything (then shows you how to fix it), I figured it must be pretty good.
Got one on order from Amazon.
https://www.everythingairbrush.com/product/gaahler...
Since he's a self-confessed grumpy old git that picks holes in everything (then shows you how to fix it), I figured it must be pretty good.
Got one on order from Amazon.
clockworks said:
I've got a couple of 1/8 scale Pocher car kits to build, and I plan to do a fair bit of painting. Although the Pocher kits are mostly pre-painted, their colour choice is not that realistic, and many of the parts need a lot of deserving (and then repainting).
For spraying the large parts of a Pocher, it is much better and easier to use a spray can than an airbrush. For the 1/8 body, I always use a spray can. For smaller parts, such as the interior, rims, or engine parts, I use an Evolution with a 0.40 needle. Very rarely do I spray fine metallic paint, which is incredibly thin, using a 0.20 needle.
Trouble with spray cans is no control. When it's new there is lots of pressure (probably too much TBH) and lots of paint, then with use the pressure drops until the paint can hardly stagger out and you have to chuck it away - probably with paint left inside that you can't get at.
With a gun or airbrush, you can control the pressure, paint flow and paint to thinners mix. And it's dead easy to mix colours to get the one you want. Ever tried mixing aerosols? Good luck with that!
With a gun or airbrush, you can control the pressure, paint flow and paint to thinners mix. And it's dead easy to mix colours to get the one you want. Ever tried mixing aerosols? Good luck with that!
I must say that I have never had issues with pressure from spray cans on larger surfaces. I always apply thin layers. I would rather do 4 thin layers than 2 thick ones. Maybe it's because I don't use the cheap cans, not sure. My biggest challenge with spray cans is always dust.
My spray cans never drip, but that does happen occasionally with my airbrush, which is very annoying with metallic paints, for example.
For the smaller parts, I prefer to use the airbrush, like you say, mixing is easy, and for spraying you need a minor amount of paint. 90% hits hits the object instead of your hand, and it's dry in no time :-D
The disadvantage of the airbrush is that the paint layer is so thin that you quickly have color differences between different parts.
Till now, I'm using Zero Paint, but that can no longer be purchased here.
My spray cans never drip, but that does happen occasionally with my airbrush, which is very annoying with metallic paints, for example.
For the smaller parts, I prefer to use the airbrush, like you say, mixing is easy, and for spraying you need a minor amount of paint. 90% hits hits the object instead of your hand, and it's dry in no time :-D
The disadvantage of the airbrush is that the paint layer is so thin that you quickly have color differences between different parts.
Till now, I'm using Zero Paint, but that can no longer be purchased here.
I received the Gaahleri Swallowtail trigger airbrush, and used it over the weekend for painting a Revell 1/24 F40 that I found in the loft.
Really nice airbrush, more controllable than my Iwata, and good coverage with the 0.5 needle.
I was watching some videos, and saw that they also make a similar airbrush with a 0.5 needle and a fan cap, which looks like a much better choice for painting body shells - elongated spray pattern, like a proper spray gun. I've ordered one.
I think that'll be all bases covered - Iwata with 0.28 for detail parts, Gaahleri with fan cap for shells, Gaahleri with round cap for larger parts.
I also got a Gaahleri 4 port manifold/holder which is excellent.
I've also started using Tamiya LP (lacquer) paints, so much nicer to use than their acrylics
Really nice airbrush, more controllable than my Iwata, and good coverage with the 0.5 needle.
I was watching some videos, and saw that they also make a similar airbrush with a 0.5 needle and a fan cap, which looks like a much better choice for painting body shells - elongated spray pattern, like a proper spray gun. I've ordered one.
I think that'll be all bases covered - Iwata with 0.28 for detail parts, Gaahleri with fan cap for shells, Gaahleri with round cap for larger parts.
I also got a Gaahleri 4 port manifold/holder which is excellent.
I've also started using Tamiya LP (lacquer) paints, so much nicer to use than their acrylics
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