Decals
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Discussion

Simpo Two

Original Poster:

90,579 posts

285 months

Or transfers as I used to know them. I'm building the Billing Boats model of the 'St Roch' but the decal for the ship's name is too big and in the wrong font. I can re-originate it easily enough in Word but how can I get it into decal form?

MG Mark

618 posts

238 months

Suggest type a search in for "waterside decal paper" into Google, lots of sources of A4 sheets, then use an ink jet printer, cut to shape and use. I've not had cause to use it so cant comment on its quality, but would seem to fit the bill

dr_gn

16,690 posts

204 months

MG Mark said:
Suggest type a search in for "waterside decal paper" into Google, lots of sources of A4 sheets, then use an ink jet printer, cut to shape and use. I've not had cause to use it so cant comment on its quality, but would seem to fit the bill
You missed out sealing the ink with clear varnish before cutting to shape and using. If you don’t, the ink will wash straight off the paper. Not sure if laser printer paper has the same issue.

lufbramatt

5,521 posts

154 months

The decal paper works fine, but remember you can’t print white and the inks/toner stays quite translucent so the colours are affected by what colour paint they’re going over. You can get white decal paper but that requires very accurate cutting out depending on the shape of the printed area.

I’ve only used it printed with a laser printer. Have to be careful with what paper feed you use to minimise how many bends it goes round and use settings for thicker paper.

Geoff391

200 posts

78 months

Just been experimenting with this inkjet paper , it works pretty well but if Your decal has any white in it then it will be clear in the decal ( white is not a printed colour ) . Also try and keep the varnish layer thin or it is like putting a layer of jelly on smile

Simpo Two

Original Poster:

90,579 posts

285 months

Yesterday (09:58)
quotequote all
Thanks for the replies. It's black text going on a matt grey surface. However wouldn't a layer of varnish be rather visible?

Geoff391

200 posts

78 months

Yesterday (10:18)
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I used Matt varnish , if it is visible then may be you could Matt varnish all the grey bit ?

lufbramatt

5,521 posts

154 months

Yesterday (10:31)
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Microscale liquid decal film might be worth a look for coating the ink.

Simpo Two

Original Poster:

90,579 posts

285 months

Yesterday (10:42)
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Geoff391 said:
I used Matt varnish , if it is visible then may be you could Matt varnish all the grey bit ?
Would prefer not to...!



lufbramatt said:
Microscale liquid decal film might be worth a look for coating the ink.
Thanks. Or is there anywhere I can send the file off to to get printed as a proper decal?

dr_gn

16,690 posts

204 months

Yesterday (10:55)
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Simpo Two said:
Thanks for the replies. It's black text going on a matt grey surface. However wouldn't a layer of varnish be rather visible?
If it’s a Matt surface I wouldn’t risk putting a decal on it without some liquid setting. I use a dot of Klear behind every decal because it pretty much guarantees no silvering (the pale silvery effect that can result from air being trapped behind the visible bits of the decal carrier film).

You’d have to overcoat everything with a varnish anyway for a perfect result, because the reflectivity of the decal will be different to the surrounding paint. I’ve found that - at least with a Matt overcoat - decal thickness disappears completely at any reasonable viewing distance.

Geoff391

200 posts

78 months

Yesterday (11:07)
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Some where like this might do it for you
https://www.etsy.com/uk/listing/4340323398/custom-...

Simpo Two

Original Poster:

90,579 posts

285 months

Yesterday (12:45)
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dr_gn said:
If it s a Matt surface I wouldn t risk putting a decal on it without some liquid setting. I use a dot of Klear behind every decal because it pretty much guarantees no silvering (the pale silvery effect that can result from air being trapped behind the visible bits of the decal carrier film).

You d have to overcoat everything with a varnish anyway for a perfect result, because the reflectivity of the decal will be different to the surrounding paint. I ve found that - at least with a Matt overcoat - decal thickness disappears completely at any reasonable viewing distance.
Hmm. I suppose I could do just the narrow strip where the name goes.

That aside, if I get some of the waterslide decal paper and print the name exactly as I want onto it, if I'm careful not to get the water on top, would the inkjet letters survive? Or is the decal permeable?

dr_gn

16,690 posts

204 months

Yesterday (13:40)
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Simpo Two said:
Hmm. I suppose I could do just the narrow strip where the name goes.

That aside, if I get some of the waterslide decal paper and print the name exactly as I want onto it, if I'm careful not to get the water on top, would the inkjet letters survive? Or is the decal permeable?
Ashamed to say that after a lot of model building I still never figured out if decal paper is permeable.

The best thing to do is buy some paper and do a test using the exact same finish you have on the model. Ultimately it’s the best way of knowing what’s likely to work.

I’m about to buy some more paper to make unidirectional carbon decals for an F1 car. I’m debating whether to get laser jet stuff, or inkjet. Explaining to everyone at work why their printer has a some strange paper melted to the insides isn’t something I want to do, yet it would seem to be the better option.

Sway

33,123 posts

214 months

Yesterday (14:13)
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Give Skumb4g Kustoms on Facebook a shout. He's based in Japan, so timezone affects response times - but he's actually very responsive and incredibly quick delivery.

Mark V GTD

2,827 posts

144 months

Yesterday (15:48)
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When I’ve done it for instructional markings on a full size aircraft I have always used special laser jet decal paper and got the local prontaprint type shop to run them off for me.