Advise on R/C cars please
Discussion
Evening all,
I have a bad urge to go back to my childhood and get a remote control car. I was initially going to get a Nitro one but am thinking a battery powered one will be easier to get running and less money when I probably get bored of it in about a month
I have a Tamiya Terra Scorcher from my past in my loft and have just got it out. It looks a bit worn out, has no servos or speed controller. I assume the radio gear can still be used so am I best getting something like the re released Tamiya Hornet £76? (How long do batteries last these days?)
Any Ideas appreciated,
Ed
I have a bad urge to go back to my childhood and get a remote control car. I was initially going to get a Nitro one but am thinking a battery powered one will be easier to get running and less money when I probably get bored of it in about a month

I have a Tamiya Terra Scorcher from my past in my loft and have just got it out. It looks a bit worn out, has no servos or speed controller. I assume the radio gear can still be used so am I best getting something like the re released Tamiya Hornet £76? (How long do batteries last these days?)
Any Ideas appreciated,
Ed
I just bought one of these... http://www.nitrotek.co.uk/A1001T.htm
It's my first one, so just went for something simple
It's my first one, so just went for something simple
Id go for electric if I were you.
Nitro can be a pain in the wotsit as they need quite a lot of fettling and youre always carrying fuel, glow starter spare glow plug etc.
My electric car mostly lives in the boot of my real car with a 12V charger and is ready to go any time I find myself in a suitable place. Hence it gets a lot more use.
Nitro can be a pain in the wotsit as they need quite a lot of fettling and youre always carrying fuel, glow starter spare glow plug etc.
My electric car mostly lives in the boot of my real car with a 12V charger and is ready to go any time I find myself in a suitable place. Hence it gets a lot more use.
brushless electric motor with LiPo batteries is the way forward.
useless in the hornet though I have a grasshopper (which is basically a hornet) and its just too much power for the chassis to handle.
ive also got a 4wd minizila on brushless and lipo and thats ace.
my fave is the Tamiya F103 (rwd F1 car) once you set these up right they handle like nothing else, only problem is they are super low to the ground and catch anything over 3mm on the bottom deck.
useless in the hornet though I have a grasshopper (which is basically a hornet) and its just too much power for the chassis to handle.
ive also got a 4wd minizila on brushless and lipo and thats ace.
my fave is the Tamiya F103 (rwd F1 car) once you set these up right they handle like nothing else, only problem is they are super low to the ground and catch anything over 3mm on the bottom deck.
For a raw beginner I would say that electric is the way to go, unless you have prior experience with nitro engines. You will get “on the road” quicker with electric ones, and with modern LiPo batteries and brushless motors they are as fast as nitro ones (faster in some cases).
I did started with Nitro but only because I had had prior experience with them, I can’t give much more advice on electric motors and such because the only ones I have are in the servos
If you want to know about Nitro I can rabbit on for a bit
You need to consider where you are going to run your model too, if you don’t have allot of flat smooth tarmac (even the bay markings in some car parks can catch) then you will want an off roader, i.e. a buggy, truggy (buggy with monster truck wheels) or a truck as the ground clearance on touring car type models is minimal.
Most pre built cars will come with a basic 2/3 channel 27mhz radio system which is fine for starting out, but I would recommend you upgrade to a 2.4ghz set (Spektrum DX3.0 is a very good radio set though quite expensive).
If you can support your local model shop too, (might cost a few quid more than an internet retailer, but they can usually get everything for you. I find that they are great places for advice, and will often help setting up the car if you buy it from them, plus it helps local business
.
Matt
I did started with Nitro but only because I had had prior experience with them, I can’t give much more advice on electric motors and such because the only ones I have are in the servos

If you want to know about Nitro I can rabbit on for a bit

You need to consider where you are going to run your model too, if you don’t have allot of flat smooth tarmac (even the bay markings in some car parks can catch) then you will want an off roader, i.e. a buggy, truggy (buggy with monster truck wheels) or a truck as the ground clearance on touring car type models is minimal.
Most pre built cars will come with a basic 2/3 channel 27mhz radio system which is fine for starting out, but I would recommend you upgrade to a 2.4ghz set (Spektrum DX3.0 is a very good radio set though quite expensive).
If you can support your local model shop too, (might cost a few quid more than an internet retailer, but they can usually get everything for you. I find that they are great places for advice, and will often help setting up the car if you buy it from them, plus it helps local business
.Matt
Ed FM said:
Quite like the look of the Minizilla. Where can you pick one of those up from?
I don't think you can anymore, and you would have to buy the brushless motor etc as an addition (they didnt make them with the brushless motor)you can have mine if you want, make us an offer

it has
novak radio gear
ko propo servo (proper pro servo)
mamba brushless kit
will send 2 batteries and a controller so all you need is a charger
mines a little bit different though (read very different, its known as the pimpzilla!)
professional airbrushed body, cost £100 + bespoke body
every singe alu part ever made i have on it, normally they are all plastic, this has EVERY aluminium hop up ever made available and the only thing it has different from the pictures is a alu centre gearbox gaurd (bought about 3 weeks ago)
its never been run outside since upgrading and as such is "as new" ready to run.
pics below.



mssg me through my profile with a sensible offer, its an ornament tbh (that works) will sell if you want it though!
see here, vid with the 6800kva motor (mine has the 5400kva but is geared with 8 tooth pinion so is faster off the mark but not as fast top end)
http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=FDWty0m1Z04
edit to add - it also has titanium driveshafts all round
edit again - its the same as this (well apart from all the alu and titanium upgrades!)- http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=mchdsp2v5a8&feat... only difference is mine has 8 tooth pinion that one has 13 tooth, you can get a 13 tooth off ebay for a fiver if you want it to go like the one in the vid)
Edited by DucatiGary on Thursday 11th December 18:50
Nothing wrong with going back to your child hood a mate of mine was after a car for his lad (personally i think it was for him)i pointed him to get:
http://www.xnitrorc.co.uk/36-cyclone-rc-car.html
Which looks like nitrotek also do the same one =D its an awesome little car and great for people starting out oh and my friend has great fun with it too!
http://www.xnitrorc.co.uk/36-cyclone-rc-car.html
Which looks like nitrotek also do the same one =D its an awesome little car and great for people starting out oh and my friend has great fun with it too!
Go electric- far cheaper and easier to use until the bug really bites, then get a nitro car if you really want.
I used to have a tamiys )in my youth) and got around 6 minutes before the battery went flat, and the car went round in circles.
The new batteries last me about half an hour- huge difference.
I would (in a completely biased manner) go for a Tamiya again- Great from the point of view of nostalgia, easy and fun to build, and spares & upgrades are easy to get hold of.
Even more specifically, i would say: Go and buy Vanessas Lunchbox.
Its quite a simple car, but it will drive over grass and mud without any problem- granted it may not be an issue for you, but was for me.
Tamiya have re-released a few of there older cars- the hotshot, Bigwig, the frog and so on, all look like the orginals, but with upgraded internals (electronic speed control being the most obvious).
God I love Tamiya!!!
I am currently re-living my youth (with the help of Jnr) with both the Lunchbox and a newer model called the Rising fighter. The rising fighter was about £60, but to be honest, i should have paid the extra and got the hornet- just because they were about when i was younger.
I used to have a tamiys )in my youth) and got around 6 minutes before the battery went flat, and the car went round in circles.
The new batteries last me about half an hour- huge difference.
I would (in a completely biased manner) go for a Tamiya again- Great from the point of view of nostalgia, easy and fun to build, and spares & upgrades are easy to get hold of.
Even more specifically, i would say: Go and buy Vanessas Lunchbox.
Its quite a simple car, but it will drive over grass and mud without any problem- granted it may not be an issue for you, but was for me.
Tamiya have re-released a few of there older cars- the hotshot, Bigwig, the frog and so on, all look like the orginals, but with upgraded internals (electronic speed control being the most obvious).
God I love Tamiya!!!
I am currently re-living my youth (with the help of Jnr) with both the Lunchbox and a newer model called the Rising fighter. The rising fighter was about £60, but to be honest, i should have paid the extra and got the hornet- just because they were about when i was younger.
I used to do a lot of off road electric R/C racing when I was a teenager. Years later I was given all my cars etc back by my Dad, because he was clearing his attic. A bit of Googling revealed that there was a thriving retro R/C racing scene in the UK and all my old mothballed kit was thus worth a mint.
I think those old race cars paid the running costs on my Porsche for a year! I was a Schumacher driver for 2WD racing and Yokomo for 4WD. Had great fun, but it was back in the days of NiCad batteries and brushed motors … one battery would last one five-minute race. As battery technology evolved, we would all gear our cars higher to get more speed out of the same five minutes.
I think those old race cars paid the running costs on my Porsche for a year! I was a Schumacher driver for 2WD racing and Yokomo for 4WD. Had great fun, but it was back in the days of NiCad batteries and brushed motors … one battery would last one five-minute race. As battery technology evolved, we would all gear our cars higher to get more speed out of the same five minutes.
poprock said:
I used to do a lot of off road electric R/C racing when I was a teenager. Years later I was given all my cars etc back by my Dad, because he was clearing his attic. A bit of Googling revealed that there was a thriving retro R/C racing scene in the UK and all my old mothballed kit was thus worth a mint.
I think those old race cars paid the running costs on my Porsche for a year! I was a Schumacher driver for 2WD racing and Yokomo for 4WD. Had great fun, but it was back in the days of NiCad batteries and brushed motors … one battery would last one five-minute race. As battery technology evolved, we would all gear our cars higher to get more speed out of the same five minutes.
Now we have to find ways to slow the cars down, the combination of lipos and brushless motors often mean the car is too fast for the track/conditionsI think those old race cars paid the running costs on my Porsche for a year! I was a Schumacher driver for 2WD racing and Yokomo for 4WD. Had great fun, but it was back in the days of NiCad batteries and brushed motors … one battery would last one five-minute race. As battery technology evolved, we would all gear our cars higher to get more speed out of the same five minutes.
wacattack said:
poprock said:
I used to do a lot of off road electric R/C racing when I was a teenager. Years later I was given all my cars etc back by my Dad, because he was clearing his attic. A bit of Googling revealed that there was a thriving retro R/C racing scene in the UK and all my old mothballed kit was thus worth a mint.
I think those old race cars paid the running costs on my Porsche for a year! I was a Schumacher driver for 2WD racing and Yokomo for 4WD. Had great fun, but it was back in the days of NiCad batteries and brushed motors … one battery would last one five-minute race. As battery technology evolved, we would all gear our cars higher to get more speed out of the same five minutes.
Now we have to find ways to slow the cars down, the combination of lipos and brushless motors often mean the car is too fast for the track/conditionsI think those old race cars paid the running costs on my Porsche for a year! I was a Schumacher driver for 2WD racing and Yokomo for 4WD. Had great fun, but it was back in the days of NiCad batteries and brushed motors … one battery would last one five-minute race. As battery technology evolved, we would all gear our cars higher to get more speed out of the same five minutes.

Seeing Cecil give a CAT away at that event to the driver that used it to win - hee bar gum, those were the days

Think the olde Competition All Terrain is lurking in in the loft still, as is the LWB carbon Optima mid

I stopped racing just as SCE's(1700mah) came out as it meant all new batteries and motors

The idea of current cars with more power than they can handle, wow

Ed FM said:
Evening all,
I have a bad urge to go back to my childhood and get a remote control car. I was initially going to get a Nitro one but am thinking a battery powered one will be easier to get running and less money when I probably get bored of it in about a month
I have a Tamiya Terra Scorcher from my past in my loft and have just got it out. It looks a bit worn out, has no servos or speed controller. I assume the radio gear can still be used so am I best getting something like the re released Tamiya Hornet £76? (How long do batteries last these days?)
Any Ideas appreciated,
Ed
I see this is an old post so don't know if you have already got something.I have a bad urge to go back to my childhood and get a remote control car. I was initially going to get a Nitro one but am thinking a battery powered one will be easier to get running and less money when I probably get bored of it in about a month

I have a Tamiya Terra Scorcher from my past in my loft and have just got it out. It looks a bit worn out, has no servos or speed controller. I assume the radio gear can still be used so am I best getting something like the re released Tamiya Hornet £76? (How long do batteries last these days?)
Any Ideas appreciated,
Ed
Let me start by asking a question first.
1. Do you think that you will want to race or just use the RC vehicle for "bashing"?
This is quite important as race RC cars are generally a lot more specialised and expensive. And odly enough they are often a tad too fragile and not suited that well to bashing. Of course either type of RC car can do both, but having an idea will make a huge difference on price and selection.
If you do want to race then you need to decide what type of class and scale and if such racing is run by any clubs local to you. You also need to seriously look at budget as it can get very expensive very quickly.
2. If however it is more for fun and as the American's say "backyard bashing" then it opens up a wealth of different RC cars and kits. One thing to look for would be some of the RTR kits. Depending on manufacturer RTR either means "Ready to Run" or "Ready to Race". Essentially the RC car will be mostly or completely assembled and you get all the bits in the box to get it running, such as radio gear, charger, motor and often batteries too.
The RTR kits might not use the pinnacle and top of the range components, but they have come on leaps and bounds and are generally good setups these days. And often a much cheaper way to get a working RC model.
If you plan to race, then a more traditional kit that you need to assemble will be the more normal route. You will then need to buy everything to go with it and probably paint the bodyshell too.
Its worth noting however that many of the RTR kits are ideal platforms should you want to up the game in the future, so they tend to not be too limiting.
3. You then have to decide on Nitro or electric!
Now, Nitro is not a bad thing, but they are a bit noisy, so limit where and when you can use them. They are also a bit messy and require you to buy fuel to run them. No bad thing. The only other issue I have with them is they can be fickle to start and keep running well. And there's nothing more annoying than one that doesn't run well.
Schmacher (a British Company) make some very nice kits, either smaller 1/18th scale or bigger 1/10th scale. If you go for a bigger model make sure you have somewhere to use it though.
http://www.racing-cars.com/main.asp
Rascal 2 (1/16th scale)

You are less likely to be able to race a Nitro kit however, as many clubs don't allow them due to noise.
Modern electric kits are very, very good. Everyone will tell you go brushless motor and LiPo cells. And they are right. The older brushed motors and NiMh cells (these replaced NiCad's) are out dated. The new stuff lasts longer, much longer. Even rivaling Nitro's in terms of runtime. And they are much, much faster. Silly quick in some cases and 40mph+ (which is flippin fast for a 1/10th scale kit) is fairly common place these days.
The only downside is all this new technology is expensive. Even for a backyard basher you could easily spend £200-400 on just the electrics if you got carried away.
Personally I've never really been a Tamiya fan. Never really got what they offer.
I do personally really like Traxxas RC kits though. And would certainly recommend them to anyone. They offer a great variety of high performing kits at sensible money.
http://www.traxxas.com/products/trx_electric.htm
Something like the Rustler VXL would be a great kit for fun and general use. Very fast in stock trim, tough and capable.

I've always been a fan of Losi RC kits too, they make some interesting RC kits such as their mini rock crawler.
http://www.losi.com/
There is another angle to look at however.
1/10th scale is the most popular. But it is a bit expensive. So if you are on a budget it might well be worth considering a smaller scale RC vehicle, such as 12th, 16th or 18th scale.
The advantages here are the kits are cheaper as are parts and upgrades. And as an added bonus you will find more places to use a smaller kit. Downside's are they aren't as capable on the longer grass and really rough terrain.
I actually did something similar last February. I bought one of these:

It's a Maverick Atom. Available as a 4wd buggy (XB) or 4wd Truck (XT).
I got mine from: http://www.apexmodels.com/gbu0-prodshow/MV12101.ht...
For £75 you'll get a really well built kit and everything you need to get up and running. Including motor, radio gear, battery and a slow charger.
If you want more speed, then you can get a new brushless motor and ESC and some LiPo cells later on. This kit will handle it.

@ OP, Not stealing your thread mate, honest 
I just bought a RC Tamiya RX-7 (they don't yet do my RX8
) To be honest, I was a little suprised by the relative cheapness of some of the parts. I've bought and built too many Tamiya kits and the moulding quality is always excellent but not so with this. I guess there's always a compromise and you do get a lot for your £129.00 Could anyone recommend a good online parts seller? I'd like to spend a bit more money and get it looking and perhaps performing better!
Thanks in advance!

I just bought a RC Tamiya RX-7 (they don't yet do my RX8
) To be honest, I was a little suprised by the relative cheapness of some of the parts. I've bought and built too many Tamiya kits and the moulding quality is always excellent but not so with this. I guess there's always a compromise and you do get a lot for your £129.00 Could anyone recommend a good online parts seller? I'd like to spend a bit more money and get it looking and perhaps performing better!Thanks in advance!
khevolution said:
it is good to see more and more people coming back to the RC world, I believe it is a great hobby
also +1 on the Losi Fanclub I've just bought myself a new Losi and will be hopefully building sometime soon to race this summer series
-1 on the Losi fanclub, im more an Associated kinda guy also +1 on the Losi Fanclub I've just bought myself a new Losi and will be hopefully building sometime soon to race this summer series

wacattack said:
-1 on the Losi fanclub, im more an Associated kinda guy 
You’d love one of my old cars … I had an RC10 with the MIP 4WD conversion. One of only three or four in the UK, I think.
I also had a bagful of specially hardened front driveshafts and caster mounts which the owner of MIP had made for the world championships … he gave me all his spares after the final race of the event. Lovely bloke!
Konamonkey:-
I think you'll have a TT-01 chassis with your Tamiya RX-7, it might be a recent E spec chassis (TT-01E), it could also be a drift car (TT-01(E)D). There are many, many upgrades or "Hop Ups" available for the TT-01, Tamiya already make a significant amount and other companies like 3racing, GMR and yeah racing have their own lines. Some parts are available from places like modelsport.co.uk but they might have to special order them for you. Alternatively you can order whole catalogues from the US or Hong Kong with quite a lot available on evil bay.
Word of warning, a lot of the alloy & carbon stuff is more show than go. However if you want to build a very nice looking TT-01 and don't mind the cost, you can virtually change every part for anodised alloy (heavier than the plastic part it replaces in most cases) or carbon.
What I did with my TT-01 was: -
Tamiya Full race bearing set (more efficient/faster running)
3racing Alloy Prop & holders (ability to take more power less flex)
Tamiya Metal motor mount & heat sink (more efficient & less flex)
Tamiya CVA Oil filled dampers (much, much better road holding)
Tamiya Upper deck brace (stiffer chassis (although not sure this has done anything))
Next items on my agenda are
Better tyres
Brushless & Lipo and associated ESC
A new body shell (current one Impreza '07 is fubar)
Stuff I won't bother with: -
Loads of adjustable alloy steering & suspension mounts. (I don't race it and it doesn't sit on display, so long as it goes where I want and how I want it I'm quite happy)
Carbon Chassis (Buy a TRF416 if you want a race a car)
New up graded gearing & differentials (although I'll reserve judgement on this, when I get my new drive train, it might need different ratios & better strength and more efficient running)
I think you'll have a TT-01 chassis with your Tamiya RX-7, it might be a recent E spec chassis (TT-01E), it could also be a drift car (TT-01(E)D). There are many, many upgrades or "Hop Ups" available for the TT-01, Tamiya already make a significant amount and other companies like 3racing, GMR and yeah racing have their own lines. Some parts are available from places like modelsport.co.uk but they might have to special order them for you. Alternatively you can order whole catalogues from the US or Hong Kong with quite a lot available on evil bay.
Word of warning, a lot of the alloy & carbon stuff is more show than go. However if you want to build a very nice looking TT-01 and don't mind the cost, you can virtually change every part for anodised alloy (heavier than the plastic part it replaces in most cases) or carbon.
What I did with my TT-01 was: -
Tamiya Full race bearing set (more efficient/faster running)
3racing Alloy Prop & holders (ability to take more power less flex)
Tamiya Metal motor mount & heat sink (more efficient & less flex)
Tamiya CVA Oil filled dampers (much, much better road holding)
Tamiya Upper deck brace (stiffer chassis (although not sure this has done anything))
Next items on my agenda are
Better tyres
Brushless & Lipo and associated ESC
A new body shell (current one Impreza '07 is fubar)
Stuff I won't bother with: -
Loads of adjustable alloy steering & suspension mounts. (I don't race it and it doesn't sit on display, so long as it goes where I want and how I want it I'm quite happy)
Carbon Chassis (Buy a TRF416 if you want a race a car)
New up graded gearing & differentials (although I'll reserve judgement on this, when I get my new drive train, it might need different ratios & better strength and more efficient running)
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