R/C Truck purchase advice please
Discussion
Was into R/C cars and planes when i was a kid/teen and now fancy getting somethig grown up.
So must be combustion powered, reasonable size, quick, go across all sorts of terrain, be very tough for when i break it (and have parts avaliable easily)
What should i buy, and how much am i going to have to spend?
Seen Nitro, Petrol, large, small, Hpi, Traxxa, xtm, tamiya etc etc and don't know what to choose!
So must be combustion powered, reasonable size, quick, go across all sorts of terrain, be very tough for when i break it (and have parts avaliable easily)
What should i buy, and how much am i going to have to spend?
Seen Nitro, Petrol, large, small, Hpi, Traxxa, xtm, tamiya etc etc and don't know what to choose!
Nitro try a HPI Savage (tough as old boots and will take on anything... speaking from experience) or a Traxxas... but include fiddling about to get them right and keep them running as part of the experience..
Buy second hand from ebay for around £120 - £150 (£450 upwards new), for that you should get the truck with radio gear... and it should be a runner... budget to spend another £50 or so getting it to your own spec
In the main watch out for old engines... i.e. on average a big block nitro engine (.30 - .40) will be past its best after about 8 gallons of fuel, and it will cost you around £100 to replace an engine.
Get one you won't regret it.
PS, if you want to see what's under the covers of a savage, look here http://www.pistonheads.co.uk/gassing/topic.asp?h=0...
Buy second hand from ebay for around £120 - £150 (£450 upwards new), for that you should get the truck with radio gear... and it should be a runner... budget to spend another £50 or so getting it to your own spec
In the main watch out for old engines... i.e. on average a big block nitro engine (.30 - .40) will be past its best after about 8 gallons of fuel, and it will cost you around £100 to replace an engine.
Get one you won't regret it.
PS, if you want to see what's under the covers of a savage, look here http://www.pistonheads.co.uk/gassing/topic.asp?h=0...
Edited by Red V8 on Friday 26th June 14:11
I hate the Savage for its clumsyness and the brakes too small for what is a heavy truck, even upgraded brakes have problems as the screws pull out on the brake shoe's. You also burn out slipper cluthes on a regular basis and if its not slippers its the plastic spur gear that strips if its not fitted with the metal spur gear.
Buy a Truggy would be my advice. Something like a Hong Nor X1 CRT or the later X2 version. Hyper ST RTR is another popular choice.
Buy a Truggy would be my advice. Something like a Hong Nor X1 CRT or the later X2 version. Hyper ST RTR is another popular choice.
Plastic spur is there for a reason. It's cheap and easy to replace. Beefing this means you move the weak point elsewhere such as diffs or gearbox both of which are more expensive and harder to fix. Beef those and the torque reversals can snap the crank or con rod.
Sav is the only one of two r/c models I have taken flat out into an immovable object and it's driven away. In the case of the savage, a tree at 40mph...
Sav is the only one of two r/c models I have taken flat out into an immovable object and it's driven away. In the case of the savage, a tree at 40mph...
I have to agree most complaints about the slipper and brakes are due to them not being adjusted right.
Also, I think most versions of the Savage now come with dual brakes (and possibly a metal spur gear) which is enough to make it do an endo (which in reality means your brakes are not adjusted right).
I do have to agree though, that a truggy is a better handling, easier to work on version of a truck. However all the points about setting up properly still apply in terms of it working problem free. The Hyper ST is a good value for money well built truggy.
Other advice - buy a 2.4 Ghz radio system. Even a cheap one is better than risking someone else with the same crystal running near you.
Also, I think most versions of the Savage now come with dual brakes (and possibly a metal spur gear) which is enough to make it do an endo (which in reality means your brakes are not adjusted right).
I do have to agree though, that a truggy is a better handling, easier to work on version of a truck. However all the points about setting up properly still apply in terms of it working problem free. The Hyper ST is a good value for money well built truggy.
Other advice - buy a 2.4 Ghz radio system. Even a cheap one is better than risking someone else with the same crystal running near you.
tty 2 stroke.Brushless has its place, and can be a lot of fun, especially my friends Mamba Monster Losi 8T running 6S Lipo! But you cant beat nitro. We run a demonstration race at a car show last year and when we got the nitro cars racing the crowds were soon gathered. The electrics went out and the crowd dispersed looking rather bored 
My opinion still stands on the Savage having owned one and previosly doing some work in a shop others had the same problems. And i know how to set the slippers and brakes up too.... Too many people over tighten the slipper or dont set the mesh correctly.
And with regards to torque reversal snapping cranks and rods WTF? How do you think pretty much every rallyx and truggy setup runs? Its a direct drive through the diffs with no slippers or one ways involved and i have never heard of torque reversal snapping engine components.
The twin disc setups are better on the savage but they need carefull setting with a radio that has end point adjustments preferably so you have more control over the servo to stop it over braking.
My opinion still stands on the Savage having owned one and previosly doing some work in a shop others had the same problems. And i know how to set the slippers and brakes up too.... Too many people over tighten the slipper or dont set the mesh correctly.
And with regards to torque reversal snapping cranks and rods WTF? How do you think pretty much every rallyx and truggy setup runs? Its a direct drive through the diffs with no slippers or one ways involved and i have never heard of torque reversal snapping engine components.
The twin disc setups are better on the savage but they need carefull setting with a radio that has end point adjustments preferably so you have more control over the servo to stop it over braking.
Mikey G said:
And with regards to torque reversal snapping cranks and rods WTF? How do you think pretty much every rallyx and truggy setup runs? Its a direct drive through the diffs with no slippers or one ways involved and i have never heard of torque reversal snapping engine components.
Err, how would a one-way stop torque reversals...??? 
I witnessed first hand a "stunt" that caused a bent crank and snapped rod (fractured, wasn't quite in two, bit it was fubard)due to huge torque reversal with a T-Maxx that had an all steel drivetrain. Plastic spur would have saved it and cost a few quid. As it was, new engine time. It all depends on how much abuse you give them. For out and out toughness, you just can't beat the Savage IMHO. As well as the flat out into a wall accident, I jumped mine 15-20m down into a quarry from ground level. Truck didn't blink - just carried on.If you want handling, the Savage is possibly one of the worst, but if you did want handling why buy a truck or truggy...? Do it properly and get a Mugen MBX6...
You can still get the Savage as kit form. As for the handling, yes, as standard they are pretty bad, high centre of gravity etc. I changed my shocks to HPI adjustable alloy sort & different, more road biased tyres & it handles like a dream now. Very sure footed & great for the corners & jumps.
pugwash4x4 said:
thanks for all the info guys
most of the Savage stuff seem to be RTR- are there any self build nitro kits left?
can i assume that savage stuff will be a fun tought starter for someone who just wants to play in parks and fields?
Will be perfect as a starter truck, just dont smack it in anyones leg as that hurts a LOT!!most of the Savage stuff seem to be RTR- are there any self build nitro kits left?
can i assume that savage stuff will be a fun tought starter for someone who just wants to play in parks and fields?
Roop said:
Mikey G said:
And with regards to torque reversal snapping cranks and rods WTF? How do you think pretty much every rallyx and truggy setup runs? Its a direct drive through the diffs with no slippers or one ways involved and i have never heard of torque reversal snapping engine components.
Err, how would a one-way stop torque reversals...??? Roop said:
If you want handling, the Savage is possibly one of the worst, but if you did want handling why buy a truck or truggy...? Do it properly and get a Mugen MBX6...
Something we agree on, i mentioned a truggy as its half way between the 2. A truggy is a bit more forgiving than the buggies due to its wider stance and can handle the rough tracks a lot better.Mikey G said:
Roop said:
Mikey G said:
And with regards to torque reversal snapping cranks and rods WTF? How do you think pretty much every rallyx and truggy setup runs? Its a direct drive through the diffs with no slippers or one ways involved and i have never heard of torque reversal snapping engine components.
Err, how would a one-way stop torque reversals...??? The Savage is still available as a kit and is a very simple truck to build (they are all pretty crude when it comes down to it). What I would say though is that nitro in many cases can inhibit where you run your model. I started with my first 1/8th off-road competition buggy 20 years ago (christ, that make me feel old...!) and back then they were few and far between and you could run anywhere.
Nowadays unless you have a big area away from people or a proper track, you are pretty much screwed. Since the explosion in cheap nitro models a few years ago, there's been a noticeable clamp down on where you can use them. maily because of pillocks being selfish and dangerous and running something like Savage though a park full of kids. I'm no NIMBY and hardly prone to exaggeration, but it wouldn't take much to seriously injure someone with a Savage or similar model. They'll break legs and ankles easily (again, witnessed first hand) and god forbid someone got stotted in the head off a jump.
Nowadays, people are wise to nitros (rightly so) and in my experience the size and noise attracts attention and you just get shut down. Problem is you get shut down even if there's no-one using the park, which sucks.
Unless you are desperate for the noise and smell then definitely consider an electric one. Have a look at the Savage Flux. It'll blow the doors off any equivalent nitro model anywhere anytime and it's plug and go, no farting about tuning engines every time the weather changes, no oily mess etc etc. I currently own over 20 nitro models and despite this, I still reckon the electrics rule the roost. Have a look on YouTube for some videos...
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