Mini F55 2016 drivetrain warning - seeking advice
Discussion
Hoping someone else here has experienced a similar issue or is willing to share their knowledge.
I have a mini f55 2016 that intermittently throws a drivetrain warning and goes into limp mode. I have taken it to my local garage and they changed the oil and the exhaust VANOS sensor as the codes were indicating that was the problem. However, the drivetrain warning keeps coming back, increasingly more frequently, and there is a feint clacking or flapping-like rattle that lasts about 30 seconds on cold start.
My workshop guy thinks it’s timing chain or a valve at the back, both of which are going to be very expensive jobs due to taking the engine apart and requiring a specialist garage. I’ve booked it in for diagnostics by a specialist, but before I get caught up in spending a fortune on them or do anymore unnecessary replacements, was wondering if anyone here might be able to shed some light? Would be very grateful for any insight offered.
I have a mini f55 2016 that intermittently throws a drivetrain warning and goes into limp mode. I have taken it to my local garage and they changed the oil and the exhaust VANOS sensor as the codes were indicating that was the problem. However, the drivetrain warning keeps coming back, increasingly more frequently, and there is a feint clacking or flapping-like rattle that lasts about 30 seconds on cold start.
My workshop guy thinks it’s timing chain or a valve at the back, both of which are going to be very expensive jobs due to taking the engine apart and requiring a specialist garage. I’ve booked it in for diagnostics by a specialist, but before I get caught up in spending a fortune on them or do anymore unnecessary replacements, was wondering if anyone here might be able to shed some light? Would be very grateful for any insight offered.
Hate to say it but (from my limited but first hand knowledge) it sounds like the chain is on its way out.
Bet the DTC code was 130Fxx which is what one I looked at the other day showed.
Had the same on two other minis at around 100,000 miles, both now dead from chain failure.
The one I looked at the other day was an F54 petrol (B38) with 100K on it. I was quoted 2500 for new chain and clutch so walked away.
What mileage is yours, and engine?
Bet the DTC code was 130Fxx which is what one I looked at the other day showed.
Had the same on two other minis at around 100,000 miles, both now dead from chain failure.
The one I looked at the other day was an F54 petrol (B38) with 100K on it. I was quoted 2500 for new chain and clutch so walked away.
What mileage is yours, and engine?
Trouble is If it is that serious and expensive to fix, I can’t sell it privately in that condition, and if I trade it in I also lose closer to 3 grand and would probably have to put even more into that budget to buy a replacement with lower mileage or through gritted teeth switch makes to ensure this doesn’t happen again. Plus it takes time to do all of that and I need a car for work. So can’t see a better option than just pay what it costs to fix. I have car-savvy, handy relatives but they don’t want to touch my mini as obviously it requires special tools and taking apart fully when something goes wrong.
Edited by Kat_1980* on Thursday 24th September 13:47
Completely understand your situation. I m currently car hunting after my now previous mini died. In your situation best option would be do trade it in against something you can rely on. I m probably going to just get a newer clubman with low miles to use for every day stuff.
The car I looked at ghe other day had same code and they had been offered 3600 for it by a main dealer as a trade in
The car I looked at ghe other day had same code and they had been offered 3600 for it by a main dealer as a trade in
Edited by 21TonyK on Thursday 24th September 15:11
So diagnostic testing from another non-specialist garage pointed to the exhaust camshaft valve spiking on their temperature gauge. They suspect the mesh at the end of it is broken. Does this sound accurate to anyone else that knows about these things? (Previous garage already did an oil change and found no debris).
They are advising to replace both intake and exhaust valves, possibly also the solenoids if they find that they are blocked and not cleanable, plus a cover of some kind that can’t be reused once removed to get to it all.
I called two specialist garages for comparison, and they are encouraging me to do a full timing kit instead on the basis of “might as well”. which is obviously more expensive and time consuming. I am reticent to do that if it does not need it yet as I only do about 4000 miles a year in it max, and may decide to upgrade in the next couple of years. Depends on the condition of all the other parts once a mechanic can actually start taking it apart and having a proper look. So it’s difficult to plan for and order parts as we won’t know for sure until in the midst of tear down.
Anybody got any helpful advice?
They are advising to replace both intake and exhaust valves, possibly also the solenoids if they find that they are blocked and not cleanable, plus a cover of some kind that can’t be reused once removed to get to it all.
I called two specialist garages for comparison, and they are encouraging me to do a full timing kit instead on the basis of “might as well”. which is obviously more expensive and time consuming. I am reticent to do that if it does not need it yet as I only do about 4000 miles a year in it max, and may decide to upgrade in the next couple of years. Depends on the condition of all the other parts once a mechanic can actually start taking it apart and having a proper look. So it’s difficult to plan for and order parts as we won’t know for sure until in the midst of tear down.
Anybody got any helpful advice?
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